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Unread 10/16/2017, 03:16 PM   #751
Wally.B
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OK. Here is what I did for NEW BULB setup.

I raised the MH Fixture just enough to Match OLD BULB pars.

ie (Old Bulb were 320, and Now New Bulbs are 320, but lights raised, and spectrum is different).

Let this soak for a few days (allow coral to make Spectrum Adjustment first, then Lower Lights to Increase PAR, to bring Fixture back down to 11")

Should I go higher with MH fixture? Less then previous PARS?

I did (In Addition to Raising Fixture)... reduce Photo Period for Today by 2 HOURS.


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Unread 10/16/2017, 03:32 PM   #752
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I'm a bit scared!!

I scanned the Front FRAG Rack (all the Frags). RACK is lower than Half TANK Level.
PARS (with MH Fixture Raised 2") and (T5's ON, same old level) are 250-320

That should be pretty safe PARS.

But this Tank is Flooded with lots of light.


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Unread 10/16/2017, 03:43 PM   #753
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Tank look with Current Lighting Setup (New Bulbs)



Pardon the Liquid Chalk PAR Measurement writing on Back of Glass.


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Unread 10/16/2017, 06:32 PM   #754
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All CALMED DOWN now. (( Small VERY Brief Panic )) with New Bulbs

So here is what happened.

-> Put in one new Bulb. (But stood at back of tank)
-----> Slightly higher PAR
-----> No noticeable Lighting Change
-----> Did some reading with other Bulbs on.

-> Put in 2nd Bulb (Again at back of tank)
-----> Took more readings
-----------> Good Increase in PARS (Two Bulbs overlapping)


THEN I CAME TO FRONT OF TANK where I can see corals.
And more specifically where I can see more White (eg White Sand)

-> First I was excited, and Happy that Lights look Crisper White. Colors Crisper.
-> Took the photos and posted.

And then it dawned on me that (All new Precious Frags Exposed), to BIG jump in lighting change. (Intensity and Spectrum Change)

No time to do analysis, or detailed readings. Needed to react fast/smart.

-> I raised (MH Fixture) to Match (PARS) With New Bulbs as OLD BULBS (2.5" higher)
-> I reduced Photo Period (2 hours)

NO HARM (as Matt says). A CLOUDY DAY is better than a SUPER NOVA.

Now I can think of a RAMP up strategy, and finish my PAR readings.

All FRAGS doing FINE.


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Unread 10/16/2017, 07:36 PM   #755
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One more LIGHTING Clarification.

I left the T5's alone.

So Tank Photo Period STANDS at 9 hours a day, just MH is reduced from 6-4 hours.

Thus a longer SHADY DAY (T5), less CLEAR SKY SUNNY (MH).
Just like ED recommended (Shading the corals), which can't do no harm, and recovery is possible over time.

BUT....Just for a brief period as I ramp up the SUNNY PART over the next 2-3 weeks.


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Unread 10/17/2017, 06:35 AM   #756
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Wally,

acros look very nice and happy

What was the par increase with new bulbs before you raised the halides?


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Unread 10/17/2017, 09:32 AM   #757
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sensei View Post
Wally,

acros look very nice and happy

What was the par increase with new bulbs before you raised the halides?
I will MAP out in more Detail, since I noticed something interesting.
THERE IS BETTER DISTRIBUTION across the TANK. (More EVEN)

But here is my first PAR SCAN (Notes I took at BACK on TANK on Glass)



All MEASUREMENTs were with MH Fixture at 11", before I raised to 13.5".

PARS improved, but my concern was also Improvement to SPECTRUM.


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Unread 10/17/2017, 09:37 AM   #758
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Wally,
now that acros are happy, I anticipate a big problem....
you will run out of space quickly with so many frags in that tank.
you will need a bigger one. hahaha


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Unread 10/17/2017, 10:04 AM   #759
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Quote:
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Wally,
now that acros are happy, I anticipate a big problem....
you will run out of space quickly with so many frags in that tank.
you will need a bigger one. hahaha
I really hope that is my next problem. I dream about that day.
To start pruning SPS just like my LPS because of overgrowth.
Just a Dream right now.

If it happens, I have the FRAG tank, and I can make many Forest Fires for you and others.

YEARS AWAY, but a DREAM!!

I had a small scare with FRAG tank. I didn't post on this thread.
But all good news.
It's that NORI Idea that Matt threw at me.
That Cowrie gave me another problem, but it's not a problem. (IT may be something GOOD)

DETAILS HERE: (Take out the two Underscores "_" ) to get LINK
htt_ps://www.reef_2reef.com/threads/weird-red-film-on-new-start-frag-tank-is-this-coraline-or-thin-cyano.331164/#post-4118298


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Unread 10/17/2017, 11:03 AM   #760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sensei View Post
Wally,
now that acros are happy, I anticipate a big problem....
you will run out of space quickly with so many frags in that tank.
you will need a bigger one. hahaha
Careful what you say Jorge! Knowing Wally, he’s already begun the basement reno to accommodate the new 500g sps system!!
His wife won’t be happy!!


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Unread 10/17/2017, 12:13 PM   #761
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Gentlemen,

Let's not plan for a Bigger Chicken Coop quite yet.
We don't have any Chickens.

The chicks haven't even hatched yet.
Heck, we barely have eggs. But they are getting nicer each day.

All we have is Just One Worried Rooster!


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Unread 10/17/2017, 12:35 PM   #762
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NEW BASEMENT Renovation (THE WALL)

I got this idea from a Certain FAMOUS GUY.

->That Cowrie doesn't have much room in Baffle box.
-> But he's DANGEROUS to SPS

-> Nori is growing in Tank (since he polishes Nori Sheets daily)
------> Appears the NORI seeded the Tank with Red/Purple Algae
-> Baffle box (inside is Sparkling Clean)

So I put in an EGG CRATE wall, as a Border Security.



-> The NORI Film on Glass peels off like a sheet with a Razor Blade.
-------> Could make weekly Nori Stew since it's edible. (Kids voted, NO!!)
-> But it's ideal food for Cowrie, and NORI Poo is good food for Corals.

I tested flow, it's actually even better since I have two pumps on either side of wall, and it deflects nicely.


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Unread 10/17/2017, 02:07 PM   #763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reefmutt View Post
Careful what you say Jorge! Knowing Wally, he’s already begun the basement reno to accommodate the new 500g sps system!!
His wife won’t be happy!!
yes haha...

Matt,
1 question:
I know that rasing the halides can not hurt in Wallys case, but the increase in par reading were 17% comparing old bulbs with T5s vr new bulbs with T5.
I am not sure if Wally was doing halides with T5s before bulb change.

anyway, 17% is not such a big increase. There should have been no need to reduce the photo period plus higher the halides dont you think so??

In your experience how much more can you increase the par for an acro with out shocking it??

I know that we should not be speaking of increasing par, but I want to get a sense of how much more light can an acro recieve in one jump with out problems?

Thanks


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Unread 10/17/2017, 02:08 PM   #764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wally.B View Post
Gentlemen,

Let's not plan for a Bigger Chicken Coop quite yet.
We don't have any Chickens.

The chicks haven't even hatched yet.
Heck, we barely have eggs. But they are getting nicer each day.

All we have is Just One Worried Rooster!
chickens are in the oven, haha


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Unread 10/17/2017, 04:16 PM   #765
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[SIZE="3"]SPS TANK (PARS) Detailed MAPPING [ * NEW BULBS MH/T5 * ][/SIZE]

Thanks to my Daughter helping to write out on Front Glass, while I stood at back (Talking over phone).



Legend at Bottom of Photo is pretty Clear.

-> T5's Don't Move.
-> MH Fixture is currently at 14"
-> LOWEST Measurement was at 12" (where it used to be)

-----> ** The 2x T5's Really make a Difference **

I kind of think 14" PARS is ok (Less Heat)

Maybe later down to 13" to get lower place Corals.

But 12" or Lower is kind of High. Correct?

BUT THINGS REALLY CHANGE for Fixture Height IF I take out the T5's.



Last edited by Wally.B; 10/17/2017 at 10:47 PM.
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Unread 10/17/2017, 07:42 PM   #766
reefmutt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sensei View Post
yes haha...

Matt,
1 question:
I know that rasing the halides can not hurt in Wallys case, but the increase in par reading were 17% comparing old bulbs with T5s vr new bulbs with T5.
I am not sure if Wally was doing halides with T5s before bulb change.

anyway, 17% is not such a big increase. There should have been no need to reduce the photo period plus higher the halides dont you think so??

In your experience how much more can you increase the par for an acro with out shocking it??

I know that we should not be speaking of increasing par, but I want to get a sense of how much more light can an acro recieve in one jump with out problems?

Thanks
Jorge, only for the sake of being overly cautious.
Simply to not be able to ask the question (in the slim chance that wally’s corals start to turn for the worse) ‘was it the lights?’
Having never used a par meter, I have no experience with safe percentage changes.
That is most certainly a question for Ed.
Sorry I can’t be more informative on that level.
I’m sure certain corals can handle more than others. I would assume low light corals would not handle intensity increases as well as high lighting corals.
But how long a coral has been in a low light situation would also play a role.


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Unread 10/17/2017, 07:43 PM   #767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sensei View Post
yes haha...

Matt,
1 question:
I know that rasing the halides can not hurt in Wallys case, but the increase in par reading were 17% comparing old bulbs with T5s vr new bulbs with T5.
I am not sure if Wally was doing halides with T5s before bulb change.

anyway, 17% is not such a big increase. There should have been no need to reduce the photo period plus higher the halides dont you think so??

In your experience how much more can you increase the par for an acro with out shocking it??

I know that we should not be speaking of increasing par, but I want to get a sense of how much more light can an acro recieve in one jump with out problems?

Thanks
I will let experts explain, but my scientific answer is this.

LIGHT and PARS are like raindrops. A bucket can only hold so much.
Rain can be drops, or pouring rain (=PARS)
You can fill quickly, or your can fill slowly, eventually it is full.
SPS are like buckets. Different sizes.
PhotoPeriod and PARS together determine CORAL full.

That concept is different the BURNING a coral that is not acclimatized. Been in dark long, so no built up protection from Light.

I see it all the time in my LPS tank. Even 5% increase can have them close up early before Lights off. Then they don't open.
Photo Period for my LPS is less sensitive. Intensity it more the driver.

Each LPS is different. I can't move an ACAN more than 1" or it closes up for a Long Acclimatization. An Frogspawn, or Hammer, you can move 10"

But in my SPS coral case, I looked at PARS and see bucket thresholds. But I don't see them reacting like my LPS (Matt, and probably know the SPS signs)
Even a 10% increase can put PARS over a Coral Max Exposure.
Very similar to Placement of SPS Corals.

Those HIGHER PAR YELLOW numbers (>350 mid level) I saw on my Mapping looked high to me, and with new Frags, and New Bulbs, (All lights on).
So I'm being careful since I need to learn my SPS bucket sizes, and eventually place them properly.

Then I can Lower Lights, Increase Pars. Since each will be ideally placed.

I think that is the last stage of Mastering SPS once you have stability.
That fine tuning.

And I'm doomed for some failure if I don't figure Out SPS like I know Soft/LPS corals.
THAT IS WHY I need to first learn what Corals I have (Names/Species), and then learn what they all need to succeed. Lighting & Flow.

Just my guess.



Last edited by Wally.B; 10/17/2017 at 07:59 PM.
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Unread 10/17/2017, 09:49 PM   #768
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FINALLY (Water Parameters) TARGETS Reached



Did more water tests in last couple of weeks than I did ALL last year

At the end I didn't raise Calcium dosing, to let is stay,
but was dosing as High as 24ml a day of ALK, since anything less, and I was slipping behind.

Number CHASING DONE!! Stability forward.


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Unread 10/18/2017, 06:38 AM   #769
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reefmutt View Post
Jorge, only for the sake of being overly cautious.
Simply to not be able to ask the question (in the slim chance that wally’s corals start to turn for the worse) ‘was it the lights?’
Having never used a par meter, I have no experience with safe percentage changes.
That is most certainly a question for Ed.
Sorry I can’t be more informative on that level.
I’m sure certain corals can handle more than others. I would assume low light corals would not handle intensity increases as well as high lighting corals.
But how long a coral has been in a low light situation would also play a role.
Thanks Matt
not using a par meter may be even better. it has been misleading for me sometimes.
lets me refrase same question.
when moving an acro up or down in your tank do you do it in little jumps or you have also done 6 , 9 or 12" in one jump and no problem for it to adapt?


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Unread 10/18/2017, 07:40 AM   #770
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Quote:
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Thanks Matt
not using a par meter may be even better. it has been misleading for me sometimes.
lets me refrase same question.
when moving an acro up or down in your tank do you do it in little jumps or you have also done 6 , 9 or 12" in one jump and no problem for it to adapt?
Knowing the types of corals I have (Wally, you’ll get there!), and therefore knowing generally if they like low or high light, and having a good idea of where the hot spots are in my tank, I don’t move corals up or down that much but I do sometimes and when I do, I don’t do it incrementally. I just move them.
It’s rare if ever that I would take a coral from the bottom of the tank and place it at the top, though.
If I have placed a coral at the bottom of the tank, it probably would never get re placed higher than half way up..


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Unread 10/18/2017, 11:34 AM   #771
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** GOOD NEWS ** (FRAG Tank RED Growth) NOT CYANO but [ SOMETHING GOOD ] Cowrie Eat's IT UP

So this is good news.

That red growth on Frag Tank isn't Cyano like I thought.

I scaped some off (FRAG TANK GLASS) and did compare using the microscope on the substance and it looked like the Purple Algae (NORI) I was feeding Cowrie.







To prove it, I put Cowrie in the Growth Section of FRAG TANK.

He gobbled it up.



Here is proof. Put TimeLapse Web Cam on TANK.

https://youtu.be/B7I_NqV_vfY

IF IT IS "CYANO" and I have a CYANO eating COWRIE, then he's worth a LOT, and I better get his DNA (But it's just NORI)

This is really good news, since NORI waste is suppose to be good food for COrals, and I have a Cowrie to break it down.



Last edited by Wally.B; 10/18/2017 at 11:48 AM.
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Unread 10/18/2017, 03:52 PM   #772
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LAST FRAG (Bubble Gum Milli) Have all the Colors I want.

No disappointment picking up the Bubble Gum Milli I ordered earlier.

Picked it up while returning the PAR meter.



Color looks more pink in my tank (Need to work on Photo Skills)

But this gives good comparision (5 th Frag on Right, Left of Shrawberry Shortcake)




I do love the new BULB look.

Adding 30 minutes of Photo Period Daily till I get back to 6 hours MH.

I also picked up a ATI Purple Plus T5 to try out. (Will install later)
I have a lot of blue with MH 14000K bulbs.
2x Blue Plus's are a bit too much. (BTW. I have had 2 T5 for a long time. Nothing new)

Will try 1x Blue Plus, and 1x Purple Plus for some POP (And Red Spectrum).


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Unread 10/18/2017, 06:43 PM   #773
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reefmutt View Post
Knowing the types of corals I have (Wally, you’ll get there!), and therefore knowing generally if they like low or high light, and having a good idea of where the hot spots are in my tank, I don’t move corals up or down that much but I do sometimes and when I do, I don’t do it incrementally. I just move them.
It’s rare if ever that I would take a coral from the bottom of the tank and place it at the top, though.
If I have placed a coral at the bottom of the tank, it probably would never get re placed higher than half way up..
Thanks Matt,
your way makes sense.
I got confused, but I remember now that I divided my tank in two sections according to Ed recommendations because even though my tank is deep (30"), aquascaping goes up just 18 inches, and par ranges from 270 at 1" from bottom to 400 at 18"

regards


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Unread 10/18/2017, 06:57 PM   #774
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Quote:
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Thanks Matt,
your way makes sense.
I got confused, but I remember now that I divided my tank in two sections according to Ed recommendations because even though my tank is deep (30"), aquascaping goes up just 18 inches, and par ranges from 270 at 1" from bottom to 400 at 18"

regards
400 at 18" Deep. Wow, you have strong lighting. What you got there??
How close are your lights to Water surface?

270 at Bottom is very nice.

I have learned from using PAR meter on other People Tank like (GTAreef) T5's are way more powerful than MH (when each is combined)
That is why my 2 T5's make such a difference.

I always have considered going All T5. (But I hate the constant bulb replacement)


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Unread 10/18/2017, 07:19 PM   #775
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wally.B View Post
400 at 18" Deep. Wow, you have strong lighting. What you got there??
How close are your lights to Water surface?

270 at Bottom is very nice.

I have learned from using PAR meter on other People Tank like (GTAreef) T5's are way more powerful than MH (when each is combined)
That is why my 2 T5's make such a difference.

I always have considered going All T5. (But I hate the constant bulb replacement)
400 par at a rock that is 18" from bottom. tank is 30" deep

I have five 400W metal halide lamps with radium blue bulbs and cozumel sun 20" reflectors with glass at 10" above water level. No other source of light in tank.

in my other tanks I changed to leds previously T5s becuase it is difficult to import T5 bulbs in my country. permits are difficult and you can not bring in lugage so shipping and packing is also another thing.


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