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Unread 03/25/2017, 04:59 PM   #1
aquamann183
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Need help adjusting refugium water level

Hello everyone, I got to a small hiccup with my refugium..

I got this idea from someone to use a bulkhead in the baffle for the refugium and have an "n" shape PVC on the other side to set the water level in the refugium and have the PVC go just below the water level in the return section so you can't hear the water.

I guess I should have made the bulkhead hole a little lower because I can't make the PVC make an "n" shape or else it's above the baffle.

I turned the PVC some so the "n" is more diagonal and it made it where I have some adjustment/flow..But since it's like that I can't flow too much since there's only a small corner the water could flow over vs if it was flowing over the flat part of the "n" shape. Does anyone know a different way to maybe plumb it to allow some more flow?

I'm sure this is all super confusing, hopefully some pictures will clear up the confusion and someone will understand what I mean.







This picture is probably the best illustration..Since the water level is set on a small corner of the PVC it can't flow a whole lot, and if I twist it more it will submerge and defeat its purpose..I drilled a small hole so it can't siphon..

Basically I want the water level above the bulkhead on the refugium side and for it to be able to flow a decent amount.

Does anyone have any other design ideas?

Thank you all very much!
Happy reefing!

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Unread 03/25/2017, 05:03 PM   #2
badbreath
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aquamann183 View Post
Hello everyone, I got to a small hiccup with my refugium..

I got this idea from someone to use a bulkhead in the baffle for the refugium and have an "n" shape PVC on the other side to set the water level in the refugium and have the PVC go just below the water level in the return section so you can't hear the water.

I guess I should have made the bulkhead hole a little lower because I can't make the PVC make an "n" shape or else it's above the baffle.

I turned the PVC some so the "n" is more diagonal and it made it where I have some adjustment/flow..But since it's like that I can't flow too much since there's only a small corner the water could flow over vs if it was flowing over the flat part of the "n" shape. Does anyone know a different way to maybe plumb it to allow some more flow?

I'm sure this is all super confusing, hopefully some pictures will clear up the confusion and someone will understand what I mean.







This picture is probably the best illustration..Since the water level is set on a small corner of the PVC it can't flow a whole lot, and if I twist it more it will submerge and defeat its purpose..I drilled a small hole so it can't siphon..

Basically I want the water level above the bulkhead on the refugium side and for it to be able to flow a decent amount.

Does anyone have any other design ideas?

Thank you all very much!
Happy reefing!

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So why can't you continue turning it another 30 degrees?

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Unread 03/25/2017, 05:05 PM   #3
aquamann183
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So why can't you continue turning it another 30 degrees?

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It would be above the baffle and I have all the PVC connections as close together as possible.

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Unread 03/25/2017, 05:15 PM   #4
badbreath
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Originally Posted by aquamann183 View Post
It would be above the baffle and I have all the PVC connections as close together as possible.

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I meant to ask if you could continue turning it counter clockwise...

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Unread 03/25/2017, 05:31 PM   #5
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I meant to ask if you could continue turning it counter clockwise...

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Ahhh, my apologies. So if I continue to turn it counter clockwise the water level just gets lower and will be basically the same height as the bulkhead.

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Unread 03/25/2017, 05:42 PM   #6
Annap729
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Can you put a slip elbow with opening facing up higher on the bulkhead side?


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Unread 03/25/2017, 05:46 PM   #7
badbreath
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What if you switch things around and put the PVC on the fuge side? Setting the water level would be easier on the drain side if the long piece was cut to set the level. Would that work?

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Unread 03/25/2017, 05:52 PM   #8
aquamann183
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I could put a 90 PVC in the fuge side but if I did that it would have the water level right at the hole and gurgle. Since I have the "n" shape it keeps the drain hole submerged so it doesn't suck air.

I'm not sure about putting everything on the fuge side, I think it would be the same?

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Unread 03/25/2017, 05:53 PM   #9
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Maybe if I use a couple 45's it won't be as high.

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Unread 03/25/2017, 05:57 PM   #10
Annap729
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Not sure I totally follow here but another idea for more flow would be another bulkhead. I had a 'fuge that overflowed down into my sump. I put three bulkheads in.

I'd look to do something like a shadow overflow which uses a herbie design. Not sure if this is helpful because it's a tad confusing but that's my $.02. :-)


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Unread 03/25/2017, 06:02 PM   #11
aquamann183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Annap729 View Post
Not sure I totally follow here but another idea for more flow would be another bulkhead. I had a 'fuge that overflowed down into my sump. I put three bulkheads in.

I'd look to do something like a shadow overflow which uses a herbie design. Not sure if this is helpful because it's a tad confusing but that's my $.02. :-)


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Right, next time I will definitely do that..But I don't really want to have to take out the glass, drill holes and put back, lol.

Do I really need a lot of flow through the refugium section? It's separate from the rest of the sump as it's supplied from the return pump.

I'm basically just going to have chaeto. So can I have a slower flow and use a powerhead or something?

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Unread 03/25/2017, 06:12 PM   #12
Annap729
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It's not about the extra flow. For me It was about redundancy, and if something plugged the single hole it might cause an issue. It can only flow as fast as your return pump. The more bulkheads you have, the more you diffuse the water coming in.

What if you add a section of pipe off the 45's, cap the end and drill a bunch of holes in the pipe like a strainer? Make sure you have more hole area than possible flow. I think that silenced one I did a long time ago.

Again, not sure if helpful but just thinking out loud.



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Unread 03/25/2017, 06:47 PM   #13
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Quote:
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It's not about the extra flow. For me It was about redundancy, and if something plugged the single hole it might cause an issue. It can only flow as fast as your return pump. The more bulkheads you have, the more you diffuse the water coming in.

What if you add a section of pipe off the 45's, cap the end and drill a bunch of holes in the pipe like a strainer? Make sure you have more hole area than possible flow. I think that silenced one I did a long time ago.

Again, not sure if helpful but just thinking out loud.



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No worries, I appreciate all of your thinking! Lol.

I have the top of the baffle about half an inch from the top of the sump..So it really can't overflow that way.

So you're saying just let the pipe come out and go straight down, cap the end and put holes in it? Do you have the capped piece above or below the water line?

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Unread 03/25/2017, 07:21 PM   #14
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I think I got it how I wanted it.
I cut both of the 90 elbows shorter with a hacksaw, so it wasn't as high over all. Seems to be working a lot better now!

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Unread 03/25/2017, 07:24 PM   #15
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Will letting it drain into the return area be an issue because of microbubbles? Should I have it drain into the skimmer section or one of the baffle sections?



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Unread 03/25/2017, 07:51 PM   #16
Lsufan
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What I did was on both sides of the bulkhead I have a 90 facing down. On the fuge side I have a strainer on the 90 & that's it. On the drain side I put a ball valve. It lets me control the flow & set the water level in the fuge. I did this because I wanted it quiet & it goes to my return section & I didn't want microbubbles. If u do have a issue with micro bubbles it may be something to try, plus u will be able to get more flow.

It's a little different setup then yours. My fuge is a seperate tank, but the concept is the same


[IMG][/IMG]



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Unread 03/25/2017, 08:30 PM   #17
aquamann183
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Originally Posted by Lsufan View Post
What I did was on both sides of the bulkhead I have a 90 facing down. On the fuge side I have a strainer on the 90 & that's it. On the drain side I put a ball valve. It lets me control the flow & set the water level in the fuge. I did this because I wanted it quiet & it goes to my return section & I didn't want microbubbles. If u do have a issue with micro bubbles it may be something to try, plus u will be able to get more flow.

It's a little different setup then yours. My fuge is a seperate tank, but the concept is the same


[IMG][/IMG]
Ahh okay, looks good! I may try that, I just didn't think you could adjust a siphon with such a small distance. I thought it needed a few feet to do something like that. I'll give​ that a go.

Thanks!

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Unread 03/25/2017, 10:13 PM   #18
Lsufan
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U are right, it may or may not work exactly how u want. I wasn't sure if it would actually syphon because of the same reason but mine is actually a syphon. The water level in the fuge is actually below the bulkhead at the bottom of the 90. I run it that low so There isn't much water that drains to the sump when I turn the system off. When I set it up I figured even if it wouldn't syphon the valve would let me somewhat tune it in.

I have a little more room then u because I have 2 bulkheads connected to each other with a union inbetween. That may be enough to where yours doesn't work like mine. If I turn it off & start it back up the water level raises higher then usual for a few minutes until the syphon kicks in.

It's hard to say if it would work or not unless u try it. It really wouldn't be hard to set up so it may be worth a shot.

If all u are trying to do is raise the water hieght closer to the top of the baffle then can u put a street 90 on the fuge side of the bulkhead & turn it facing up. If it is to tall & is higher then the baffle then u could cut a little off the 90 to lower it a little bit. It wouldn't handle as much as a syphon but it wouldn't be restricting the flow like how it's setup now. If that works then on the return side all u would need is a 90 facing down with a short piece of pvc to get it under the surface


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Unread 03/26/2017, 06:08 AM   #19
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Yes-a street 90 facing up, or just plug the bulkhead with a cap and restore it to original state.


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Unread 03/26/2017, 08:52 AM   #20
bhbell
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Look for street L fittings for one. They're elbows with one end male and the other female.

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Unread 03/26/2017, 12:41 PM   #21
aquamann183
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Ahh, I never knew they had male/female fittings like that. Do they sell those at normal hardware stores or would I have to buy them online?

I believe I have an extra ball valve laying around so I will try to get a siphon going, that would be better I think.

My main goal is just to have it quiet..So I figured if the opening to the bulkhead is submerged it would be quiet. If I can get a siphon going that allows more flow that would be even better!


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Unread 03/26/2017, 01:36 PM   #22
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Just ask n the plumbing department. Their use is pretty common so most home stores have them.


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Unread 03/26/2017, 02:40 PM   #23
Lsufan
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Home Depot & lowes both carry street 90's in the most common sizes. One end will be like a regular 90 but the other end will slide straight into the bulkhead.

I would try the valve & see what happens. If u are going to the store anyways then I would go ahead & grab a street 90 & put it on the fuge side of the bulkhead but facing down. If it doesn't work how u want then all u have to do is turn the 90 facing up & it will raise the water level & u could leave the valve how it is & just leave it all the way open.

U may have to angle the valve being the bulkhead & the water level in the return section isn't a whole lot of difference. U want the end of the valve to be just under the water surface. The deeper it is the less of a chance for a syphon to start. If u could get a street 45 then u may be able to have the valve close to 45 degrees then slip the street 45 into the end of the valve to get back square with the surface



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Unread 03/28/2017, 04:22 PM   #24
aquamann183
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So I got some street elbows but haven't tried that yet..
I put just a 90 with a ball valve and it works! Siphon and all..
But...Can I get it set with just one drain line? It wants to either siphon too fast or overflow the section if I make small adjustments with flow to the fuge section. I can't seem to get a balance.
Is it possible with one line? Or would I have to have 2 separate drains and do a bean animal type style where there's an open channel that allows the slight rise in water to go down a different line?

I feel like I'm getting close, thank you all!

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Unread 03/28/2017, 04:43 PM   #25
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Nevermind, got the siphon dialed in with just the one hole and the ball valve.

Thank you all again for all the help! One more task I can cross off my list. Lol.

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