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10/17/2017, 01:24 PM | #1 |
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How do I drill a sump for a float valve?
Hi everyone, I was wondering what the best way to drill a 1/2 inch hole into my sump would be? I am planning to install a float valve to prevent overflow when replacing evaporated water. I have forgotten to shut off the water way too many times and this would be a way to prevent flooding.
Thanks,
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Dan Current Tank Info: 75 gallon tank, mixed SPS, LPS, Softies |
10/17/2017, 01:26 PM | #2 |
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You can always hang it on an acrylic bracket.
Are you attempting this on a running sump? Is it glass or some other material? I would consider float switches and a solenoid or pump from a reservoir versus a float valve.
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Inconveniencing marine life since 1992 "It is my personal belief that reef aquaria should be thriving communities of biodiversity, representative of their wild counterparts, and not merely collections of pretty specimens growing on tidy clean rock shelves covered in purple coralline algae." (Eric Borneman) |
10/17/2017, 01:33 PM | #3 |
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Assuming the tank is glass... I've done it, and it's no different than drilling a tank for a bulkhead. Get a good glass drilling bit that is the correct size, then go to town. Keep the bit wet, and go slow applying minimal pressure (at most). Let the bit sand away the glass... don't cut it.
I wouldn't try it on a running sump, though.
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Jackson - All advice I give is based on my first hand experience. YMMV. Current Tank Info: 38g (mostly LPS) with a 20g sump/fuge and all the other standard goodies |
10/17/2017, 01:41 PM | #4 |
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Never put a mechanical float on your sump. You use a aqualifter that pulls from a 5 or 10g tub that has a mechanical float.
You use 2 electronic float switches in your sump from autotoppoff.com using their system, which makes it 100% failsafe if set up right. A mechanical float is how you come home to a dead tank |
10/17/2017, 01:42 PM | #5 |
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10/17/2017, 02:42 PM | #6 |
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Thanks, I might make a bracket. While I am at it, I will place the water alarm sensor on the bracket inside the top off the sump. That way I will be sure to turn off the water before it overflows. I'm still thinking of other ways that will make the process easier without adding risks. I don't have enough room for a fresh water reservoir at the moment to use an ATO.
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Dan Current Tank Info: 75 gallon tank, mixed SPS, LPS, Softies |
10/17/2017, 02:49 PM | #7 |
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ATO would be way easier and more stable. autotopoff.com makes good and cheap units. You can always have a bucket outside your tank stand, and decorate it with a basket or something to make it not look like a bucket. I just have a 5 gal lowes bucket on one side of my tank. Need a basket or something to hide it, but I barely even notice it now.
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10/17/2017, 03:22 PM | #8 |
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I'm always curious why people are so down on using a float valve. Almost every toilet made uses a float valve and I don't hear about anyone complaining about that?
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10/17/2017, 04:05 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
Most have probably had a toilet valve or 2 go bad on them or the flapper leaks due to degraded rubber,etc... I've used one thought and would again.. But I made sure I kept it in good working order and had a failsafe should it fail..
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10/17/2017, 04:15 PM | #10 |
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Toilets (usually?) don't have snails crawling around inside them, risking one getting stuck in the valve.
Toilet fill valves fail all the time, no one notices because the extra water just runs down the drain. I've replaced the valves on both of my toilets this year. A failed toilet fill valve doesn't dump unlimited water onto your floor like a failed float valve in a sump will (trust me on this, I've had it happen twice). Overflow safety can be had in a lot of different ways, there is not always a single right answer. I like to think in terms of redundancy, and in terms of limiting risk if everything fails anyways. A system based on electronic float switches is easy to get redundancy, you can just put a second switch in the circuit an inch above the main one. It's also easy to limit risk with, you can have the water source as a small reservior (limiting the total dumped if anything fails) versus having it hooked directly to your RO/DI unit (where the water will just run forever if it fails). If you don't have room for a reservoir, I'd try my best to be creative. Put it in the basement and poke a 1/4" hole through the floor - lots of pumps available that can raise water one story. Or make a cool little "stand" next to your tank to hide the reservoir and put a pretty plant on it or make it look like a bookshelf or something. If you must supply water from the RO/DI directly to the tank with a mechanical float valve, I would still put in a float switch above the valve's setpoint. Have it connected to a solenoid valve that shuts off the water supply to the mechanical valve. That way, you at least have redundancy. One final thought, any time you do have a redundant shutoff, check it regularly (say, once a month). It would suck to have water on the floor because your backup switch slowly got clogged with salt creep and you never realized it because it hadn't been tripped in 5 years...
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Inconveniencing marine life since 1992 "It is my personal belief that reef aquaria should be thriving communities of biodiversity, representative of their wild counterparts, and not merely collections of pretty specimens growing on tidy clean rock shelves covered in purple coralline algae." (Eric Borneman) |
10/17/2017, 10:09 PM | #11 |
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10/17/2017, 10:11 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
I drilled the top of the sump above the water line for my calk ATO return line. Dang thing was I forgot about power failures and all the back flow raises it up to this point and it wasn't sealed so now I get a little leak until I take the time to put a proper seal in the fitting. |
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