Setting up a 65g

[Frank H]

Hi all, I am new here and new to saltwater. Plenty of experience with freshwater, have kept mbuna for years, co2 injected high tech planted tank, community tanks.. but this is my first saltwater tank in about 20 years. Just looking for advice or tips.

Going sumpless.

I want to grow zoas, mushrooms, maybe more, I dont know all the lingo yet.

Here is what I have so far:
-Tunze comline streamfilter 3163 (with poly filter that the local store sold me)
-Tunze 9012 dc skimmer
-Green Element EVO 36"-40" LED Aquarium Light Fixture - Reef Capable 24x3W (for now? already had this, might have to upgrade sooner than later)
-MicroBacter7 Bioculture
-100lbs of dry rock in the mail from Billys Reef Connection
-I have a few wavemakers and one with a controller for wave action, used from a planted tank
-Aquarium and stand have been ordered since April 17, waiting patiently for 25 days so far... Its a 65 gallon - 36x18x24

I have yet to decide if Im going with a RO/DI system and mix or if Im going to pick up water from the store up the street.

-I dont have substrate yet. (suggestions? live sand?)

I have heaters sitting around but thinking of getting a new one for this tank (suggestion? I usually use hydor inline heaters on Eheim canisters.)

How does my equipment list look so far? Anything I should add?

[reefling]

I use a green elements that quad evo, but it needed modification. There was not enough blue light. My stuff would brown out. I swapped out lots of LEDs and got a much better balance now.

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[Frank H]

Ya, I hear ya, and im with the diy stuff, but those Kessils are so sexy!

I also have a few current satellite + fixtures sitting here. Might supplement the blue.. I dont know

[Frank H]

Forgot to mention I have the API saltwater master test kit and reef master test kit in my pile of tank goodies. Just need that tank!

[mcgyvr]

I'd suggest dry sand.. not too fine at all or it can blow around/be annoying...

And Eheim Jager heaters.. 2 x 250W is plenty and pair them with an inkbird external controller for "safety"
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Tempe...ntroller&psc=1

I really like the microbacter7 too.. I'm usually not a "bacteria in a bottle" guy but I've used it with good results on newer tanks as a maintenance dose after cycling for a few months..

With a 65G system I would spring for the RO/DI system.. lugging buckets from a store gets annoying real quick and other reasons..
Depending on your source water you can pick up one for $125-180 or so..
spectrapure/airwaterice/bulkreefsupply/buckeyehydro are good vendors with quality units..

[BarIzoN]

Hi,

I have a 55G sumpless too...

My only advice is if you continue go sumpless, I'd recommend to keep a canister filter in the system.

People say it's a nitrate factory, but if you maintain correctly, it will help to inprove your water quality.

Also, I's recommend a Hang on Back protein skimmer. I have the Aquamaxx HOB and it works like a charm.

Also, pay attention in the lights... LED is cool, but research for an "hybrid" approach with T5's AND LEDs. T5s give the right wavelength corals like, and LED give the "shimmering" effect.

RO/DI water is A must too. Go for Spectrapure, the simple one, 90G. It's a great cost x benefit. Research about your water source as well. There's some different media for RO/DI systems depending on your water. If you think you have a "regular" tap water, it's OK for the standard RO/DI system.

When mixing your salt, let it mixing for at least 24 hours, then do the water change.

Be patient.

Let your tank cycle with no fuzz and let nature do its job.

Research in this forum a lot.

Get a good LFS and stick with. All my fishes came from a single source where I trust, so I don't have a quarantine tank for example. I'm not heavy stocked though. Many people will tell to have a QT, which I also recommend if you buy from "untrusted" sources, for example...

Get good wavemakers. I have a Maxpect Gyre 150. It fits to my tank and runs on 30% power... That combined with the canister filter output generates a cool flow in the tank.

I also have a Fluval G3 canister. It's a great addition to my sumpless system and I use carbon in the chemical filtration and my water has never so clear after this filter.

Other than that, patience, dedication and love will make your tank thrive.

- BarIzoN -







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[BarIzoN]

Here's a picture of my tank... 55G sumpless.






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[Frank H]

Nice looking tank BarIzon! I have a protein skimmer already but I bought internal because space is limited in my small living room and want the tank to sit close to the wall. Hopefully the Tunze 9012 DC will do the job! I had a canister but sent it back because of all the naysayers on these forums. Bought an internal filter. A local guy uses the same filter/protein skimmer I have and is running a very successful reef.

mcgyvr, 500 watts seems like overkill, no? Ive always ran low wattage heaters with hopes that the heater stays on longer and uses the regulated switch less and lasts longer. My 55g mbuna tank has a 200 watt hydor inline heater and stays perfect 78 all the time.

Im convinced I need a rodi system. Been reading on BRS site and gonna order soon. Still need to decide where Im gonna put it. I have 75psi on my hose spicket and garage sink but my kitchen and bathrooms have way less pressure.

Still waiting on tank to arrive. =(

[Frank H]

I do appreciate the help so far! Thank you all =)

[BarIzoN]

Super! Go for it with your setup and you're in the right way!

Yes, an RO/DI is something you should consider.

One point on getting RO/DI on a LFS, is whenever you go to a LFS, you'll buy something else... That happened A LOT with me...

After I got the RO/DI filter - I'm running a Spectrapure 90GPD - which is more than enough for me, I just finished my mixing station with two 32G brute cans and a Pan World 40px pump. I had my first water change done with the new station this weekend and I can tell it's a natural evolution...

Later on, after I recover the costs, I might buy a pump to send from my station directly to the tank...

I'm also thinking to automate the mixing process, but that's another history...

- BarIzoN -

[sde1500]

I run a 200 watt heater for my tank. Been testing it's limits the last week or so, it can manage to keep the tank 20 degrees warmer than my house temp. Get the RODI for sure. Lugging 5 gallon buckets up a flight of stairs is enough of a pain, lugging them from the store will get old quick. Plus, you'll need top off water, and in the case of an emergency don't want to hope the LFS is open.

If you want more blue light, there are companies that sell just blue led strips that you can run.

[Frank H]

Gotcha.. RODI system research mode.

Picked up some Special Grade reef sand today. One step closer. So want that tank to come in!

[Pelagic_e36]

I'll get a lot of heat for this but I only top off with RODI. When I do my weekly water changes I use conditioned faucet water. However I do only have hardy corals like Green star polyp, kenya tree, and mixed zoas.

[Frank H]

Nice to know that its possible to get by with less. Thanks

[Frank H]

Dry rock should be here Thursday.

I thought I was a patient man, but this is testing my abilities.

[BarIzoN]

Oh, and try to document all the steps... It's quite cool looking on photos when you started and present...

Also, keep a record of your parameters...

I tried a few apps, paid $10 bucks for Aquarimate, but at the end of the day, I'm using Google Sheets and Google Photos to document the tank.

[Frank H]

Right on BarIzoN. Appreciate the suggestion.

OK, so now I have dry rock and dry sand. Still waiting on tank. Getting frustrated now.

Oh well..

RODI system from BRS should be here in a few days. Ill be able to make saltwater and start soaking the rocks in the dark in my Brutes.

Ive rinsed the aragonite so its ready to go.

Slowly coming together.

[Frank H]

[Frank H]

So now that my tank is here, Im going to add the dry rock, salt water, filter, skimmer, dry sand and leave the lights off.

Correct me if Im wrong.

[Blabomb]

From what I've read the safest method with the highest success rate involves curing your rock before cycling your tank. Depending on what type of rock you got, there could be a large amount of organics that will die off and leach nutrients into your water. I personally decided to bleach my rock before curing it before cycling my tank. I think this gives me the best chance of keeping a low nutrient system. There is a "BRS Investigates" video on youtube that compares nutrients on newly acquired rock with common curing methods. If you have the time I definitely think its worth the watch. It may or may not influence how you decide to do things, but knowledge is power.

[Blabomb]

I'm not sure how to edit my previous post, but I found that video for you if you're interested in it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tBIW...SwGg3&index=20

[Frank H]

Is there a benefit to curing in a tub rather than in the tank? If in a tub, I have an empty tank for months.

[Frank H]

Just hooked up my new BRS RO/DI system and making my first batch of water now.

[Frank H]

Stacked some rocks

[Stolireef]

That's dry rock so it doesn't need to cure. Add ammonia up to 2ppm (get it from Ace) and then ignore the tank other that top-off and testing for ammonia and nirates for six to eight weeks.

I don't know the light fixture that you're using but if it has lots of red and green diodes, you're going to be in a world of pain from unwanted algae. I run Radions and have those channels completely turned off.