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Unread 01/18/2017, 10:58 PM   #1
drew930
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How do I keep a permanent coral QT with no fish?

Finally doing my first quarantine tanks this time around. Not sure how some people keep coral QT that are permantly set up and running without adding a fish or two for the bioload? But keeping fish... they could get ich,etc if the coral introduced has traces in plug or skeleton.

Isn't it necessary to have a few fish in there ? I'm setting up 2 40 gallon breeders.... one for fish and the other for coral. I will be able to drain water from DT into the QTs though .... so do I just need to change QT water with DT water every water change ?

Not sure how to go about this ....




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Unread 01/18/2017, 11:05 PM   #2
Breadman03
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I have my AWC set up to run from my DT to the QT, then to waste. I also employ airgaps on the lines feeding a given tank so that there is no possibility of a back siphon.


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Unread 01/18/2017, 11:18 PM   #3
tkeracer619
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I keep a few nems in my qt. Feed them here and there.


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Unread 01/19/2017, 12:07 AM   #4
wrott
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you could have a few pieces of sterile LR to start, then run a power filter or canister filter and feed the tank bacteria+NH3 when not in-use and coral food when in-use.


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Unread 01/19/2017, 06:06 AM   #5
CarrieB
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I've kept shrimp in my coral QT. Then you can feed them:-). I also feed coral food.


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Unread 01/19/2017, 08:49 AM   #6
ca1ore
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Many people run frag tanks separate and distinct from their other systems. Perhaps inquire what they do (my frag tank is connected)?


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Simon

Got back into the hobby ..... planned to keep it simple ..... yeah, right ..... clearly I need a new plan! Pet peeve: anemones host clowns; clowns do not host anemones!

Current Tank Info: 450 Reef; 120 refugium; 60 Frag Tank, 30 Introduction tank; multiple QTs
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Unread 01/19/2017, 10:33 AM   #7
scooter31707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drew930 View Post
Finally doing my first quarantine tanks this time around. Not sure how some people keep coral QT that are permantly set up and running without adding a fish or two for the bioload? But keeping fish... they could get ich,etc if the coral introduced has traces in plug or skeleton.

Isn't it necessary to have a few fish in there ? I'm setting up 2 40 gallon breeders.... one for fish and the other for coral. I will be able to drain water from DT into the QTs though .... so do I just need to change QT water with DT water every water change ?

Not sure how to go about this ....


It's not necessary to keep fish in a coral QT. I have done some inverts in there. For as changing water, change the water when necessary, IMO. That's what I do without any issues or side effects.



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Unread 01/19/2017, 11:11 AM   #8
Ou8me2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drew930 View Post
n.

I will be able to drain water from DT into the QTs though .... so do I just need to change QT water with DT water every water change ?

Not sure how to go about this ....

Thanks
Never use DT water for the QT tank... You risk cross contamination with using the water as you could have something that is dormant in the DT and you just gave your QT.


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Unread 01/19/2017, 12:12 PM   #9
ca1ore
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Originally Posted by Ou8me2 View Post
Never use DT water for the QT tank... You risk cross contamination with using the water as you could have something that is dormant in the DT and you just gave your QT.
Never understood this 'logic'. Since the fish, presumably, is going to end up in the display, seems to me a good idea to find out if there's a problem sooner than later.

FWIW, I always fill my QT with water from the DT.


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Simon

Got back into the hobby ..... planned to keep it simple ..... yeah, right ..... clearly I need a new plan! Pet peeve: anemones host clowns; clowns do not host anemones!

Current Tank Info: 450 Reef; 120 refugium; 60 Frag Tank, 30 Introduction tank; multiple QTs
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Unread 01/19/2017, 12:22 PM   #10
ca1ore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drew930 View Post
Finally doing my first quarantine tanks this time around. Not sure how some people keep coral QT that are permantly set up and running without adding a fish or two for the bioload? But keeping fish... they could get ich,etc if the coral introduced has traces in plug or skeleton.

Isn't it necessary to have a few fish in there ? I'm setting up 2 40 gallon breeders.... one for fish and the other for coral. I will be able to drain water from DT into the QTs though .... so do I just need to change QT water with DT water every water change ?
A few observations:

1. I have often kept a fish permanently in my invert QT to act as a 'canary'. Even going so far as to reduce the time spent in QT in the absence of observable disease on the fish. For those that may view this practice as 'cruel', my last canary lived for 8 years.
2. Using DT water for your QT may superficially seem problematic, but it actually makes sense. First it's aged, so less stressful on the newcomer. Second, if you have some latent disease in your tank, might as well know sooner rather than later. Plus, in my case, I use seeded media from the DT anyhow, which would also contaminate the QT.
3. I rarely do water changes on my fish QT (which is only setup as needed) as I simply find them unnecessary. About the only time I would do one is to help to remove meds.


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Simon

Got back into the hobby ..... planned to keep it simple ..... yeah, right ..... clearly I need a new plan! Pet peeve: anemones host clowns; clowns do not host anemones!

Current Tank Info: 450 Reef; 120 refugium; 60 Frag Tank, 30 Introduction tank; multiple QTs
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Unread 01/19/2017, 01:26 PM   #11
drew930
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Thanks for the replies...

Seems I can either keep a fish or two that stays in Coral QT all the time, as long as I see no observable ich or other diseases on the fish.... If i do see signs, then take the fish out and will have to run the Coral QT fish less for 72+ days?

If no fish, then I still probably need to just feed the coral a couple times a week...

I will be using DT water to fill up the QTs if ever taken down, or If I do a water change on the QT or something maybe...

I need to find a way to cycle the QTs though, preferably not to wait 4-8 weeks to cycle. Im cycling the rock when it comes in, in a rubbermaid so the cycle will be done when the tank arrives.... so I don't have to stare at an a cycling tank for over a month lol

But for the QT's, could I just get a sponge out of another tank that is not mine? Like a local friends tank or something, as long as his tank doesn't show of any ich? What about a gallon of skimmate or something ?

Or am I going to have to wait the entire time for the QT to cycle?


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Unread 01/19/2017, 01:39 PM   #12
Ou8me2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ca1ore View Post
Never understood this 'logic'. Since the fish, presumably, is going to end up in the display, seems to me a good idea to find out if there's a problem sooner than later.

FWIW, I always fill my QT with water from the DT.
FWIW, I watched a topic by Austin Lefevre | MACNA 2016

https://youtu.be/PbuEMQ9f8ZU?t=28m2s

I'm not saying it's the gospel but he does work with a lot of distributors in the hobby and helping them use proper QT methods. The whole video is actually quite interesting as he talks about disease, acclimation, QT and the Dump and Hope approach.

His reasoning for not using filter media or water from the DT is because the fish are already stressed out and then potentially bringing a disease can further stress the fish out. Stress decreases the fish immunity.

I found the whole video educational and what he says makes a whole lot of sense to me.


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Unread 01/19/2017, 03:00 PM   #13
ca1ore
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I'd disagree, but that's ok. No data to back up his claim I'd wager Next MACNA I attend will be my first .... so thanks for posting the video. Will take a look.


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Simon

Got back into the hobby ..... planned to keep it simple ..... yeah, right ..... clearly I need a new plan! Pet peeve: anemones host clowns; clowns do not host anemones!

Current Tank Info: 450 Reef; 120 refugium; 60 Frag Tank, 30 Introduction tank; multiple QTs
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Unread 01/19/2017, 03:21 PM   #14
tkeracer619
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I don't really see a point in keeping the fish in the QT. To me after going through exhaustive QT and not having anything in my display I would be hesitant to supply a host for parasites. I want them to die out and while I know it isn't 100% without a fish for 73 days I feel I have a better shot than if I had a host. Often the corals and inverts end up in that tank for around 100 days.


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Unread 01/19/2017, 03:53 PM   #15
Mishri
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yeah, many fish can have ich without showing any physical signs... then you add the coral and your display is infected.. not a good idea IMO.

fishless is the way I'm going.. I don't believe corals have enough of a bioload to be concerned about ammonia.. but it does depend on type and feeding and how many. nems might if you feed a lot, so just go slow, feed less to start, ramp it up.. can always use an ammonia alert badge... but if you were doing sps or softies.. no problem..


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Unread 01/19/2017, 05:09 PM   #16
chi
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I believe the OP was asking about a QT tank for corals. Even if the fish had ich or whatever, would it transfer to the coral?


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Unread 01/19/2017, 05:22 PM   #17
Captain smoke
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I started a QT frag tank because I had AEFW, I picked up a JBJ20, Eshoops HOB skimmer, and heater. I used 20lbs of LR from my DT sump. I ran it fishes for 3 weeks. I added one-two small pellet once a week but the skimmer got it out before it raised my levels, I also feed reef roids once a week and again nothing on test kits. I added one small Blue Damsel ( turns out they eat AEFW) and feeding him along with the coral I got some levels.


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Unread 01/19/2017, 05:23 PM   #18
Mishri
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fish and coral diseases and parasites are different. they don't transfer between each other, but the water they come in with can carry diseases, and the coral bases/plugs (non-living tissue) can host parasites in certain forms. which is why I'll be doing a 90 day QT on all of my corals with no fish, to prevent ich reaching my display if you put a fish in the QT with your corals you risk that disease/parasite infecting that fish without visible symptoms, allowing it to survive through the QT and then transferring to the display when you move the coral to the display. With no fish to host the disease/parasite, it dies.


He seems to be asking how you run a coral only tank with no fish in it. In my experience corals don't have a significant enough bio-load to cause ammonia/nitrite/nitrate spikes that would be harmful.. but.. there are a few exceptions to that, in which case he just needs to feed small to start, and don't get too many at once. You don't need fish to keep corals.


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Last edited by Mishri; 01/19/2017 at 05:30 PM.
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Unread 01/19/2017, 07:47 PM   #19
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I always end up using some of my tank water for my fish QT either right away or atleast towards the end of QT.
But just getting ready to set up coral QT... so following along.


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Unread 01/19/2017, 08:04 PM   #20
drew930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mishri View Post

He seems to be asking how you run a coral only tank with no fish in it. In my experience corals don't have a significant enough bio-load to cause ammonia/nitrite/nitrate spikes that would be harmful.. but.. there are a few exceptions to that, in which case he just needs to feed small to start, and don't get too many at once. You don't need fish to keep corals.


Yes, that's my main concern..... We can keep corals for 73-90 days without any fish if they have flow, light, and food. But now I'm confused lol .... are you saying it's okay not to cycle the Coral QT tank? That fresh saltwater is okay?

I'm starting bare bones this time.... no tank that I can transfer water, rock or anything.

I just didn't want to wait 4 weeks for a QT to cycle lol .... both Fish QT and Coral QT. Because if I get that set up and start the QT soon, I'll be good to add a few fish and coral when the tank gets here, since the rock will be cycled. I'm cycling the rock in a Rubbermaid.

Could I just get a dirty sponge or some skimmate (from LFS or friend) for the QT's. Or do I have wait the 4 weeks for cycle. Obviously I can't go buy a few pounds of Liverock for a QT since it may have pest on it.


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Unread 01/20/2017, 03:31 AM   #21
Ou8me2
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I'd disagree, but that's ok. No data to back up his claim I'd wager Next MACNA I attend will be my first .... so thanks for posting the video. Will take a look.
Actually, if you watch the whole video he does have plenty of data to support his belief. I'm not asking anyone to believe. We can agree to disagree.

I'm just saying without new methods of doing things in this hobby. We would all be stuck in 20-30 years ago methods. Obviously, this is fish methods.

Corals I think should be in a QT tank. If you ever watch BRS videos on Youtube you'll see even the BRS 160 suffered from montipora eating nudibranchs and yes they dipped and treated the corals.

The 4 stages of competence
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZV9a...U0ffC&index=53


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Unread 01/20/2017, 04:10 AM   #22
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I agree with ca1ore.

The water being of the same salinity, pH, Alk, Ca, Mg, temperature is a good thing unless your system is broken.

Slowly transitioning from a current state into a new state in a QT can be controlled from that starting point.

As far as keeping fish - I recommend one wrasse, one tang, and one shrimp. The wrasse is for parasites. The tang is for algae, and the shrimp is to keep the fish clean (and worms).

Think of them as staff in a hospital.


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Unread 01/20/2017, 10:58 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by karimwassef View Post
I agree with ca1ore.

The water being of the same salinity, pH, Alk, Ca, Mg, temperature is a good thing unless your system is broken.

Slowly transitioning from a current state into a new state in a QT can be controlled from that starting point.

As far as keeping fish - I recommend one wrasse, one tang, and one shrimp. The wrasse is for parasites. The tang is for algae, and the shrimp is to keep the fish clean (and worms).

Think of them as staff in a hospital.
LOL! I love it. A long time ago, Fish Doctors of MI told me a yellow wrasse and or a yellow damsel is good to keep in coral QT or frag tank for those same reasons.


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Unread 01/20/2017, 11:19 AM   #24
Ou8me2
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You could keep a couple Chromis in the QT tank.


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Unread 01/20/2017, 11:43 AM   #25
m0nkie
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I have kept a coral QT without fish for awhile. It is much easier than raising coral in DT. Why? No bioload. No phosphate and nitrate. So i feed twice a week with coral frenzy. Some inverts in there to take care of algae. keep an eye on alk/calc/mag..

I run a fish QT next to it.

Still need all the equipment tho. Skimmer. Pump. Heater. Ato. Light. Doser. Etc

I don't use DT water for coral QT because old water lack trace elements. But I do use DT water for fish QT tank..



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