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Unread 05/14/2017, 02:16 PM   #1
eazyreef
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Question USB 3/C for LED Power

I have been away for the hobby for a couple of years and now have some time to throw myself back in. I am building my won LED's and have a power question.

First off, the power and meanwells are going to be separate from the hood and I was looking for a slick way to connect the controller to the LED's in the hood. I can get just the hardware but was wondering has anyone used usb connectors to wire up the controller to the hood.

If not, what did you use and how did it look.

Thank you...


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Unread 05/15/2017, 05:18 AM   #2
twitchy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eazyreef View Post
I have been away for the hobby for a couple of years and now have some time to throw myself back in. I am building my won LED's and have a power question.

First off, the power and meanwells are going to be separate from the hood and I was looking for a slick way to connect the controller to the LED's in the hood. I can get just the hardware but was wondering has anyone used usb connectors to wire up the controller to the hood.

If not, what did you use and how did it look.

Thank you...
I've never used USB as a connector on any projects without following the standard. I'm sure it would work, but you just have to make sure you don't have someone in the house that at some point could see a USB port and plug something into it...
I've used a CAT5 for a similar purpose and it worked nicely, but this was for a small (<50W) led setup, how much current would you be pulling through the cable?
How many pins do you need?

Digikey/mouser also have a wide range of cables and connectors that you could use depending on your power and pin needs.


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Unread 05/15/2017, 06:24 AM   #3
der_wille_zur_macht
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I would try to avoid using any connector with a standard unless implementing that standard, but especially USB C, given the lack of consistency from cable to cable in terms of how the standard is implemented. You may already know this, but a "real" USB C cable isn't just a bunch of wires in a sheath, there's circuitry built in that helps implement the standard. And manufacturers aren't behaving consistently in terms of how they do that, so you may be fine with one cable, but have issues with another.


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Unread 05/15/2017, 08:48 AM   #4
theatrus
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USB C 3.1, as der_wille_zur_macht mentioned, is an active cable, which means it has logic and drivers embedded in the cable end overmolds. The connectors are common now, but you're designing your own PCB in order to use them.

Standard USB cables can be super shoddy internally with bare-minimum wiring, and aren't going to handle even half an amp particularly well. I'd also second to recommendation of avoiding mixups of connectivity.

So can you do it? Yes. Should you? You'd be ok with proper USB cables using the power pair (the data pair will generally be small by design) - thats what Neptune does with AquaBus (CAN over USB data pairs), but they keep AquaBus at 5V so nothing terrible will happen when you jam in your laptop by mistake.


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Unread 05/15/2017, 08:56 PM   #5
eazyreef
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Thank you for the replies. The plan was to get the connectors and wire them myself using something like cat 6 cabling. I need 5 lines (10 strands) to control the lights. I think the the night wattage will be the royal blue at about 24 watts. The rest are much lower wats.


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Unread 05/15/2017, 08:57 PM   #6
eazyreef
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Thank you for the replies. The plan was to get the connectors and wire them myself using something like cat 6 cabling. I need 5 lines (10 strands) to control the lights. I think that the most wattage will be the royal blue at about 24 watts. The rest are much lower wats.[/QUOTE]


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Unread 05/15/2017, 09:15 PM   #7
oreo57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eazyreef View Post
Thank you for the replies. The plan was to get the connectors and wire them myself using something like cat 6 cabling. I need 5 lines (10 strands) to control the lights. I think that the most wattage will be the royal blue at about 24 watts. The rest are much lower wats.
http://www.allelectronics.com/item/1...FdWEswod8uMPTw

Personally find 22ga too small for long runs or higher power..
20ga is about minimum for me.. Trying to find 10 conductor 20ga isn't easy..
well in small quantities and reasonable per foot prices..
$2/ft is about max I'd pay for 10 conductor 20ga sheathed wire..

18ga solid is pretty stiff...

http://www.graybar.com/store/en/gb/t...FYaEswodYrEPww

Save money .. sheath it yourself..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-AWG-Gauge...38.m2548.l4275

25' 20ga stranded..10 colors..


Go figure.. found some..
http://www.pacergroup.net/shielded-m...FY-PswodTesMmg

well min. 25ft



Last edited by oreo57; 05/15/2017 at 09:24 PM.
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Unread 05/16/2017, 04:57 AM   #8
eazyreef
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Thank you very much. I am going to try the custom usb-3 connectors with the cable and let you know how it works.

It it works as hoped, it will be a clean and easy to use connection.


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Unread 05/16/2017, 06:18 AM   #9
der_wille_zur_macht
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What connectors are you planning on using? (Do you have a link to the specific product?)


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Unread 05/16/2017, 11:42 AM   #10
oreo57
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FYI for wire junkies..


http://www.discount-low-voltage.com/...FYW3wAodPfIKoQ
http://www.discount-low-voltage.com/...776c0b31de1bb4


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Unread 05/22/2017, 04:29 PM   #11
eazyreef
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Sorry for the delay, was thinking of using something like the following:

https://www.saikosystems.com/web/p-8...GoogleMerchant

There are a lot of different types.


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