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03/06/2018, 10:56 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 55
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RODI unit recommendations
what RODI unit do you have?
how often do you need to buy/ change filters? what is going to give me consistency without being through the roof expensive? thanks everyone Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
03/06/2018, 11:10 PM | #2 |
Dr. Reef at ur service
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bulkreefsupply
i have 2 x 150gph units. i change filter every 2 yrs though my TDS are still 0 after 2 yrs but i change filters anyways.
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Water Quality: NO3 0,Phos 0,Cal 440,Alk 7.5,Mag 1300 "Reef Fast, You Crash, Reef Slow, You Pass" Mike's Reef 3:16 Current Tank Info: 350g DT,95g sump, 50g Frag tank, 4800gph return 4x Sea swirls. 6x AI Vega Color. 200# Pukani rock, dual recirculating skimmer, Biopellet, GFO Carbon rx's, Cal rx. Closed loop. 1.5hp chiller, genesis renew. Apex & RKE |
03/07/2018, 02:56 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Oklahoma City
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+1
I have the 75gpd 4 stage, and I have never regretted it. I change the DI resin and filters every 3-6 months based on how much water I'm producing at the time. The replacement filter kits make things quick and easy.
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"You Can Lead A Gift Horse To Water... But You Can't Make Him Look In Your Mouth." Current Tank Info: 65g Mixed Reef Display - 15g Macro Algae/Refugium - 40b Sump |
03/07/2018, 04:21 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: New Braunfels, TX
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My vote would be for Buckeye Hydro. Russ is excellent to deal with and their prices are great. I would highly recommend emailing Russ and letting him know what your needs are. I like Bulk Reef Supply for many things as well, but I don’t know that you’d get the same level of support for specifically RO/DI units that you’d get with Buckeye Hydro.
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03/07/2018, 05:14 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Northern Virginia
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I have the BRS 75gph model which I upgraded to the 150gph. I'm on a well and I only change my filters about every two years even though my TDS is reading zero. My well is pretty deep, 800', which seems to be to an advantage as others on wells have to change more often.
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Jim Current Tank Info: SCA 150G, 5 inch sand bed, 2 Tunze 6095s, ReefBreeders v2+ 50" with 2 all Blue Reefbrites, and Continuous Water Change System |
03/07/2018, 06:05 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: North Carolina
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What size tank?
Any idea if your city uses Chlorine or Chloramines (call them and ask) Any idea about the TDS of your tap water? (buy a cheap TDS meter now so a more logical filter purchase can be made) Well or city water? Any idea about your current water pressure? Here is just one link to a cheap TDS meter.. There are tons.. all should work about the same.. https://www.amazon.com/2018-New-Pack...ords=tds+meter And a link to a cheap pressure gauge that just screws on your outside hose bib (spigot) https://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-P2A...70_&dpSrc=srch
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03/08/2018, 10:55 PM | #7 |
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Location: Dallas
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I got one from BRS works fine. It has a IN/OUT TDS meter on the DI when its not zero I change the filters + DI. 3-4 times since I had it, about a year.
Buckeye Hydro has a nice system also. I wish I had got a DI bypass. I run mine about once a week. The first water has very high TDS on input DI side. I think it burns my DI faster than needed. I got the RODI before I got my tank. I knew I didnt want to mess with hauling water -- im way too lazy.
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Thanks, Mako Current Tank Info: Returning Reefer - Red Sea 525XL, Mitras LX7s, Apex, check homepage for vids of tank |
03/08/2018, 11:03 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Delaware
Posts: 312
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Koolermax rodi on Amazon. I think I payed 120. I have a 300 gallon and have made easily 2000 gallons in the past year and haven't changed any filters except for the DI resin and have 0 tds. It's about time I guess
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03/09/2018, 10:47 AM | #9 |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 170
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I got the bulkreefsupply 75gpd on black friday great RODI unit and priced right. You can also look at spectrapure refurbished units great units.
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03/09/2018, 10:48 AM | #10 |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 170
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Changing your filters will depend on your source water supply; I have well water so if thats your case you will change it more often.
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03/09/2018, 11:14 AM | #11 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Idaho
Posts: 92
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I have the BRD 150g unit. I'm on well water so no worries about chlorine/chloramine. We do have fairly hard water and a bunch of iron in our well water.
We have a whole house filtration setup using three of the 20" "Big Blue" filters. First stage is 100 micron, second is a 35 micron carbon block, third is a 5 micron. These last about a year in this configuration before we see pressure drop. Setup like this, the RODI unit sees very little sediment. I've been using this unit just over a year with the original filters. The resin hasn't begun to change color yet. Id guess I've produced around 500-600 gallons so far for rock curing (dry Pukani cured for 12 months), initial tank fill, and water changes. Quote:
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03/10/2018, 11:23 AM | #12 |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 328
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Just look for the best deal you can find....the units themselves are all the same, the difference is GPD, micron rating and stages 4 or 5 [most common].
Filmtec or Spectrapure membrane [most come with Filmtec] 75 GPD is the most optimal RO/waste water ratio option but there are 50 GPD & 100 GPD if you prefer. Sediment filter 1-5 micron rating is ideal, 1 micron will clog up a little faster....cheap $3 Carbon Block 5 micron rating is usually sufficient but you can get a 1 micron rating with these as well. Here is where a major difference occurs in stages, IF your municipal water adds chloramines, I suggest a 5 stage RO/DI unit, this will add a second carbon block cartridge, I suggest "Pentek Chlor Plus 10" cartridges, they are rated for water with chloramines up to 1000 G & 50,000 G for water without chloramines, I run 2 carbon blocks, change them every 6 months to 1 year, the second carbon block in line will last longer, so I usually stagger changing them out. If you don't have chloramines, a 4 stage RO/DI unit will be cheaper and do the job just as well. I still suggest the chlor plus carbon blocks $12 because of the high G ratings. DI Resin becomes depleted, can be recharged as a DIY project at home, I suggest buying 4-6 DI Resin cartridges before you begin recharging them, so that it will be worth your while, and every time you recharge, some will be lost in the process [can't be avoided], very inexpensive and relatively easy to do, I'll spare you the details, just google it. It is also important to buy a unit with a membrane flush kit, or if you are a DIY'er, you can add one yourself, this extends the life of the membrane, I usually get 2 years use from mine, changing the sediment filter every few months [2 or 3 in my case] also helps to keep the membrane functioning longer. Last edited by Pet Detective; 03/10/2018 at 11:47 AM. |
03/11/2018, 09:18 AM | #13 |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 46
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Six stage 150gpd BRS unit with booster pump because of low water pressure. Love it. Have just changed filters after one year even though I was at zero TDS.
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03/20/2018, 05:34 AM | #14 | |
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:
http://www.buckeyehydro.com/tds-creep-bypass/ Russ |
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03/20/2018, 05:55 AM | #15 |
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Hudson Ohio
Posts: 1,801
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I had a BRS 150gpd water saver which has two membranes. I chewed through DI resin like there was no tomorrow. I have since converted it to a single membrane Spectrapure 99% (60 gpd I believe maybe 75). Since then its been over a year since I had to change my DI. I get a consistent 1ppm out of the membrane where I was getting about 6 out of the BRS dual set up.
It is well worth the price of the upgraded premium membranes.
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Mike My 120 Build: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2389417 Current Tank Info: 120g In-Wall | BA Overflow | 55g Sump | SWC Extreme 150 Skimmer | DIY ATO | 2 Jebao RW-8| Fluval SP6 | Photon 48v2 LED | GFO and Carbon |
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