Treating zoanthids - Page 2

jasonandsarah · 03/12/2015, 07:31 AM

I wonder if it would be benifical to cut off the couple in the middle that look really bad? The ones on the outside edges are starting to look a lot better.
Out of curiosity why do you keep your tank at 80°? Idk if that would cause the problem because I've never had zoa pox but from what I know 80° is definitely on the upper end of the temp scale for a reef tank. I personally keep my tank at 76° and don't ever like it going above 78°...

WmTasker · 03/12/2015, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasonandsarah

I wonder if it would be benifical to cut off the couple in the middle that look really bad? The ones on the outside edges are starting to look a lot better.
Out of curiosity why do you keep your tank at 80°? Idk if that would cause the problem because I've never had zoa pox but from what I know 80° is definitely on the upper end of the temp scale for a reef tank. I personally keep my tank at 76° and don't ever like it going above 78°...

When I was scrapping the white off, a few of the polyps actually just fell off also since the white was so deep in to the polyp.

I just recently raised my tank from 78-79 to 80. I was reading a bunch in articles on zoanthids and treating them. One or two of the articles talked about keeping the reef on the more high side of normal for temperature. I forget the exact reason but I just raised it to give it a try. I had also read an article by Randy Holmes-Farley here on reef central temperature can go 76-83. It also said that in the ocean, the greatest number of corals are found in waters 83-86. I haven't noticed a difference so i might just lower it back.

hobineros · 03/12/2015, 08:47 AM

From what I remember... Tanks kept on the high side tend to spread disease faster and tanks on the low side (slower metabolism's) spread slower. One reason people like lower tank temps. I believe Farley also recommended that keeping temp stable was more important than fixating upon the actual setpoint of the thermometer. FWIW, my tank is 79-80.

WmTasker · 03/12/2015, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hobineros

From what I remember... Tanks kept on the high side tend to spread disease faster and tanks on the low side (slower metabolism's) spread slower. One reason people like lower tank temps. I believe Farley also recommended that keeping temp stable was more important than fixating upon the actual setpoint of the thermometer. FWIW, my tank is 79-80.

All true. I think I need to start checking my mixing bucket and see what the actual temp is. For all I know, it could be 85 and I just don't notice. It doesn't feel warmer to the touch but who knows. I have the heater set between 78-80 on the dial. My reef has a controller that reads the temp and adjust as needed. If I have any plans to continue keeping zoas, this might be a good place to start correcting a few things.

WmTasker · 03/12/2015, 09:22 AM

Are there any thoughts on doing a forth dip in a row? Or should I give it the 2 day break?

Jone · 03/12/2015, 03:39 PM

take a break,,

WmTasker · 03/12/2015, 06:09 PM

So I came home from work today and most of my corals are closed up. The tank has a little bit of a cloud to it. There are lots and lots of bubbles in my overflow towards like foaming a little. And my protein skimmer has bubbled over. Any suggestions on what might've caused this?

Jone · 03/12/2015, 06:33 PM

anything die in the tank ???

WmTasker · 03/12/2015, 06:35 PM

Just a quick update. I turned off the protein skimmer. I replaced all my carbon in the aquarium. I did almost a 20% water change. And I'm just going to have to watch it for the night. A few things that have changed over the week in my aquarium. I have added the MP 10 to replace my wave maker. So I've seen a lot more stuff getting blown up from my bare bottom reef. I have also added a bio pellet reactor about a week ago. But I only put in half of the recommended pellets.

WmTasker · 03/12/2015, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jone

anything die in the tank ???

All fish are there and everything looks alive. Just closed up.

WmTasker · 03/12/2015, 07:07 PM

PH is 8.2, ammonia and nitrites are zero, and nitrates are around five

WmTasker · 03/14/2015, 07:06 AM

Aquarium looks pretty good today. I'm guessing it was a bacteria bloom from the bio pellets. I forgot about the chances of that happening when using those.

greenhead · 03/19/2015, 02:13 PM

+1 on the bloom. I only used half and got the same result about 6 days latet..

03/12/2015, 09:22 AM	#30
WmTasker JBJ 45g Rimless Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Crestline, Ohio (central Ohio) Posts: 1,574 Blog Entries: 2	Are there any thoughts on doing a forth dip in a row? Or should I give it the 2 day break? __________________ The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese.

03/12/2015, 06:09 PM	#32
WmTasker JBJ 45g Rimless Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Crestline, Ohio (central Ohio) Posts: 1,574 Blog Entries: 2	So I came home from work today and most of my corals are closed up. The tank has a little bit of a cloud to it. There are lots and lots of bubbles in my overflow towards like foaming a little. And my protein skimmer has bubbled over. Any suggestions on what might've caused this? __________________ The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese.

03/12/2015, 06:35 PM	#34
WmTasker JBJ 45g Rimless Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Crestline, Ohio (central Ohio) Posts: 1,574 Blog Entries: 2	Just a quick update. I turned off the protein skimmer. I replaced all my carbon in the aquarium. I did almost a 20% water change. And I'm just going to have to watch it for the night. A few things that have changed over the week in my aquarium. I have added the MP 10 to replace my wave maker. So I've seen a lot more stuff getting blown up from my bare bottom reef. I have also added a bio pellet reactor about a week ago. But I only put in half of the recommended pellets. __________________ The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese.

03/12/2015, 07:07 PM	#36
WmTasker JBJ 45g Rimless Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Crestline, Ohio (central Ohio) Posts: 1,574 Blog Entries: 2	PH is 8.2, ammonia and nitrites are zero, and nitrates are around five __________________ The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese.

03/14/2015, 07:06 AM	#37
WmTasker JBJ 45g Rimless Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Crestline, Ohio (central Ohio) Posts: 1,574 Blog Entries: 2	Aquarium looks pretty good today. I'm guessing it was a bacteria bloom from the bio pellets. I forgot about the chances of that happening when using those. __________________ The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese.

03/12/2015, 07:31 AM	#26
jasonandsarah Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Maine Posts: 70	I wonder if it would be benifical to cut off the couple in the middle that look really bad? The ones on the outside edges are starting to look a lot better. Out of curiosity why do you keep your tank at 80°? Idk if that would cause the problem because I've never had zoa pox but from what I know 80° is definitely on the upper end of the temp scale for a reef tank. I personally keep my tank at 76° and don't ever like it going above 78°...

03/12/2015, 08:47 AM	#28
hobineros Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Miami, FL Posts: 48	From what I remember... Tanks kept on the high side tend to spread disease faster and tanks on the low side (slower metabolism's) spread slower. One reason people like lower tank temps. I believe Farley also recommended that keeping temp stable was more important than fixating upon the actual setpoint of the thermometer. FWIW, my tank is 79-80.

03/12/2015, 03:39 PM	#31
Jone Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Posts: 517	take a break,,

03/12/2015, 06:33 PM	#33
Jone Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Posts: 517	anything die in the tank ???

03/19/2015, 02:13 PM	#38
greenhead Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 796	+1 on the bloom. I only used half and got the same result about 6 days latet..