|
07/06/2015, 11:13 AM | #101 | |
South Bay Reefer
|
Quote:
So, overall I'm trying to use quiet equipment, dampening any vibration, and using a double-thick wall of drywall to try and limit the noise. I'm certainly open to good ideas though (so PM sent ), and now is a good time because they're starting to work on what will become the "fish room" Cheers Simon. |
|
07/06/2015, 06:55 PM | #102 |
South Bay Reefer
|
Daily progress
So, the good news is that they figured out how to install the third solar-tube, so the ceiling now looks like:
We've left the covers on for now, but when the room is finished, I'll take those off. I can't see the use for the diffuser on the bottom of the tube - I just want the light focussed on the tank (which they are directly above ... and the plumber has run the PVC piping under the house to the water tanks and installed standpipes so I can push a tube down to the bottom of the standpipe and get to a new freshwater supply and a new saltwater supply. The tanks stay outside the house (which is a good thing, given my lack of space here) and since water finds its own level, they are "effectively" here where they're needed The final thing they finished off today is the new external door, which will give me access to the fish room from outside the house, since there's no access from inside. All in all, quite a lot of progress today. It's going to slow down now while we repair/re-lay the floor, sand the entire room and lay 3 coats of stain/sealant - mainly because of the drying time required for each coat. Simon. |
07/06/2015, 07:40 PM | #103 |
Refugium pat.#D414,242
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 844
|
Everything looks really nice As a 30 year home builder I always enjoy watching/seeing hobbiest build their fish rooms. You and your helper's did have a good day and looks like nice quality work from here. Did you ever check and see if your solar tubs can have a auto dimmer as an option? As said the tubs are nice on their own the auto shutter is nice too.
Down the road when you have some time to kill, rig up three controlled/colored LED's...set them up on top of the solar domes up on your roof then check out the view from your DT Thanks for sharing!
__________________
Doctor "Aquatron" Mister "Spinner" 300 gallon TRUVU AquaSystem "Mod" w/ 150 gallon control center....... Build Thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2276765&highlight=300+dt+ |
07/06/2015, 09:31 PM | #104 | |
South Bay Reefer
|
Quote:
Thanks for the nice comments, but the other guys did all the work I'm in the office all day - I just get to come home and see what they've done. It's great Cheers Simon |
|
07/06/2015, 10:04 PM | #105 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 1,066
|
Exciting progress! I'm looking forward to each new update
|
07/07/2015, 11:46 AM | #106 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Peoria, Illinois
Posts: 949
|
Quote:
|
|
07/08/2015, 01:53 PM | #107 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Wayne Manor, Tampa Florida
Posts: 474
|
Quote:
|
|
07/08/2015, 01:54 PM | #108 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Wayne Manor, Tampa Florida
Posts: 474
|
got your PM....question.... Can you do anything to the back side of the "cement board" in terms of sound control that is facing into the fish room...
I could write a novel on the subject but you have to address 3 things: Vibration Sound Insolation Bass or low Frequency The three biggest sounds you will deal with are pumps (including the skimmer) water in the sump and air intake on the skimmer. Viibration: The more you can reduce vibration the less you work you will have to do. Using rubber like the big rubber floor pads (which I used) and cutting them up in different applications will help. Every time a hard surface touches a hard surface sound will travel through it. I made a mistake by attaching a table with my sumps to the concrete wall without putting rubber in between. I could feel the vibration of my pumps on the second floor of the house because the vibration transferred from the pump, to the stand, to the concrete wall, up to the second floor 2x4 studs to the marble floor above. I have since corrected this..... Think of any hard surface touching a hard surface in your set up...the feet of the stand touching the floor....PVC going through a wall and touching the drywall, etc, etc.... any time you can use something to absorb the vibration it will help. Sound Isolation: Lots of ways to do this. Could spend hours talking about it... but the best way to start would be the pumps. If you can afford the new high end DC pumps like the new Red Dragon or another brand(rumor is they have a new US RD distributor and he may have even visted this thread) this will limited the sound by a large factor and though they are more expnesive then my Hammerheads, they are WAY MORE quiet. I myself am looking into this option. You have to make sure that every hole or penestration in a wall is filled. If you have PVC going through walls use Acoustic calk all the way around it and dont let the PVC touch the sides. If you have say electrical plug outlits on the wall where the tank is use a product like quiet putty that is basicall silly putty....put it around the outlet from behind can kill all the sound penetration. You can also use high density foam, panels, etc behind the view wall. Low Frequency/bass: Buidling bass traps will take the low frequency of the pumps and keep the sound from bouning around the fish room. So...my recommendations: 1. Buy the quietest pumps you can afford and then mounts them on foam or rubber. 2. Instead of using concrete board which will increase sound and vibration...I would use two half inch sheets of green drywall that is used in bathrooms with a product called green glue applied between the sheets. I would use this option between the viewing room and fish room. If you can do this all the way around the room even better. This will add density and will help to eat the sound and not take up much of you valued space. 3. Build or buy acoustic panels and hang them in the fish room. 4. Build or buy bass traps and put the in the corners of the roof of your fish room up high. They will be out of the way. 5. Use rubber or foam everywhere you can think between hard surfaces. You can even use something called acoustic clips with your drywall or your standing plank you are building... The water and air sound can be addressed later when your set up is finised and is easy to do. I will provide some links of some of this in a bit.... Last edited by FuzzyZipperbaum; 07/08/2015 at 02:53 PM. |
07/08/2015, 03:05 PM | #109 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 50
|
subscribed, awesome setup. Keep it coming!
|
07/08/2015, 03:09 PM | #110 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Wayne Manor, Tampa Florida
Posts: 474
|
There are plenty of brands to choose from but here are some examples:
Acoustic putty: http://www.amazon.com/QuietPutty-Aco.../dp/B004ZG422W Acoustic Caulk: https://www.tmsoundproofing.com/acoustical-caulk.html Green Glue: http://www.greengluecompany.com Acoustic clips: http://www.acoustiguard.com/product-detail/genie-clip/ Google build corner bass traps like this: https://www.gearslutz.com/board/bass...***-traps.html Google build acoustic panels like this: http://acousticsfreq.com/blog/?p=62 I used this material from an AC supply house to build the panels and traps: http://www.amazon.com/Owens-Corning-.../dp/B005V3L834 Then covered them in black burlap.... Hope this helps....it is a topic not much talked about on the fish forums but I spent months studying it to build my theater. |
07/10/2015, 11:30 AM | #111 | |
South Bay Reefer
|
Quote:
Cheers Simon |
|
07/10/2015, 02:23 PM | #113 |
South Bay Reefer
|
Floored!
So there's not a lot of progress to report this time, but the new flooring is in and it's been stained to match the rest of the house's floor...
This is a slow process because we had to install the new flooring where the old floor was buckled due to a slow plumbing leak over the years, then sand everything down so the new floor integrated with the old one well, then stain to match and wait for that to dry, then there's 3 coats of a clear polyurethane coat, all of which we have to wait to dry before doing the next. We're currently on coat 1 today... Flooring is expected to be finished next Tuesday. One point of interest wrt the flooring and reef tanks is highlighted over in another thread about moving house. We wanted the tank to be removable if we ever moved house, which meant making the room be able to be restored back to a non-tank situation as easily as possible. From a position of "what's best for just the tank" it would clearly be better to stop the hardwood at the point where the new wall will go, and hot-mop the tank area as if it were a shower, to make sure the water didn't damage anything again. That, however, would make moving pretty damn hard. So, the actual design calls for the new flooring to go all the way throughout the main room of the house; for the area that the tank will go into to be waterproofed (to protect the hardwood) using a pond liner; and for the wall dividing the "fish-room" from the living room to be non-structural in any way. That way, there's only a minimal cost to repair the damage if we ever decide to remove the tank, or move house. Even the wall-mounted sink, and the water stand-pipes that supply NSW and NFW from the tanks at the other end of the house are routed through the wall cavity, and do not impact the floor. They're not visible from this angle, but you can see the stand-pipes in previous images. Simon |
07/10/2015, 02:57 PM | #114 | ||||
South Bay Reefer
|
For some reason, I didn't see this until just now... Replies inline
Quote:
The stand has several mount-points along the rear of the front face, looking like: ... the reason they are on the rear face of the front of the stand is so I can use vibration-reducing rubber washers to connect those mount-points to 2x4's, and then attach the drywall in turn to those 2x4's. This is sort of pushed on me because I need the stand to form the structure behind the drywall due to the way I wanted the tank to push out from the wall. What I didn't want was the drywall turning into a bass speaker for any pumps etc. that are vibrationally-linked to the stand. Quote:
Quote:
I found this which claims to reduce the sound significantly without incurring the cost of extra width. I sent it to the contractors but they're busy with the floor right now... Quote:
Cheers Simon |
||||
07/15/2015, 03:31 PM | #115 |
South Bay Reefer
|
The long-awaited day dawns...
Apologies for this one, it's going to be image-heavy
So, today the tank arrived. To get ready for moving it in, we first laid the waterproof membrane (usually used to line ponds, so it's pretty thick and tough) over the area where the tank was going to be placed. The liner will cover the entire floor, and go all the way up the wall by the sump, and at least 20" up the other walls, apart from where there are doors etc... The membrane will be held in place by roofing nails, and we'll put a strip of wood along the floor/wall junction to keep it properly positioned. We also laid RAM-Board throughout the living room, where the new floors had just finished being stained/polyurethaned (3 coats of polyurethane, each with 24 hours drying time...). I didn't want those new floors getting marked. On top of the pool-liner we placed some elephant-bark rubber matting, to absorb any low-frequency vibrations that might otherwise be transmitted through to the floor. But while we were doing that, the tank turned up... It had been stored at the local depot for the last couple of weeks, and I hired "Mike" who has this recovery-vehicle and a fork-lift. He puts the forklift on the vehicle, drives to wherever the job is, and can transport stuff as you see above, it's a pretty unique combination AFAIK. If you click on the above image, you'll see a video of him lowering the forklift to the ground by remote control using the winch on the truck... Anyway, then he drove it up the path and maneuvered it into place behind the house. I thought his sign was pretty funny... ... so then we took the sump and the stand inside the house. The helpers were under the impression that the sump *was* the tank, not being reef-tank-savvy There were several comments along the lines of "that wasn't so bad", etc. I'm not sure what they thought the crate was for... Once they'd been carried inside we made sure the stand was level, and the sump was placed correctly inside the stand, and that both were in the correct position, because once the tank was on top, nothing was moving thereafter. You can just about see the "Elephant Bark" vibration-reducing rubber mat under both the sump and stand in this photo. [to be continued, due to the limits on images] Last edited by Spaced Cowboy; 07/15/2015 at 04:04 PM. |
07/15/2015, 03:38 PM | #116 |
South Bay Reefer
|
[continuing]
... Then there was the whole 'uncrating' of the tank itself. Cue several "Ooohhh" and "Ahhh"'s from the crew I have to say that Miracles have done an excellent job with the tank, the seams are gorgeous, there are no obvious scratches or defects anywhere. I'm completely happy with the tank. ... and we were finally ready to move the tank inside the house. I had bought several (9, in fact) of the sucker-type handles, each of which purports to support 200 lbs, so I was *pretty* *sure* they'd hold. They did. Phew! ... but of course the tank was back-to-front relative to how we wanted it to be, so we had to swivel it around by 90 degrees and then swivel around by another 90 degrees to get the front face looking in the right direction... ... the next job was to get everything positioned just so, so that the wall that will be built around it is properly aligned, and that the tank is dead-center of that wall, and the correct distance out from the rear wall. The stand had shifted slightly when we put the tank on top, so we had to get everything perfectly back in place... And here it is in all its glory, ready for the rest of the renovation to proceed around it. We'll be covering it with RAMboard to protect it while the guys work around it... While it's uncovered, though, you can see the optical clarity of the glass - starfire all round and for tempered 3/4" glass that's very little green being introduced I have to say that this tank was phenomenally heavy. Really, really, really heavy. Even with 10 of us lifting, it was a real struggle to get the tank up to the stand's height. It took 3 of us to lift the old glass-cages 240G tank onto the back of a pickup, and that was nowhere near the effort of lifting this tank up onto its stand - 3/4" glass is ridiculously heavy... The other thing this doesn't really show is how the tank utterly dominates that end of the room. As it should, of course A very happy camper^W^W^W^WSimon. Last edited by Spaced Cowboy; 07/15/2015 at 03:52 PM. |
07/15/2015, 06:33 PM | #117 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 1,066
|
Love it!!! It makes my 40b look like a dwarf lol. I'm looking forward to the next stages of construction.
|
07/16/2015, 07:20 AM | #118 |
Addicted to salt
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Carrollwood, FL
Posts: 2,450
|
Looks stunning!, i see one guy lifting the tank from the overflow, I would water test just the overflow to be safe..
__________________
"60% of the time it works every time..." - Anchorman Current Tank Info: 180 Aqueon RR / SRO3000Int / BLDC15 / TriggerSys custom Sump / AI Hydra 52 and Hydra 26 |
07/16/2015, 10:37 AM | #119 | |
South Bay Reefer
|
Quote:
Any water-test will have to wait until after plumbing - there are 3 holes in the bottom of the overflow, but I'll make sure to do that one first Cheers Simon |
|
07/16/2015, 10:51 AM | #120 | |
Addicted to salt
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Carrollwood, FL
Posts: 2,450
|
Quote:
__________________
"60% of the time it works every time..." - Anchorman Current Tank Info: 180 Aqueon RR / SRO3000Int / BLDC15 / TriggerSys custom Sump / AI Hydra 52 and Hydra 26 |
|
07/16/2015, 10:51 AM | #121 |
South Bay Reefer
|
Framing begins
So, we needed to take down the old drywall and replace with greenboard, also add insulation etc. since code has changed since this house was built ~60 years ago. We also need to start building the frame out for the non-structural internal wall. Both of these are potentially messy operations, so the work area was prepared...
Here's a close-up of how they protected the tank - it was really well done, considering they are tearing it off today to start the framing. First they wrapped it in RAMboard, then covered that with plastic... Anyway, now we are going to start on the framing, although there's a (hopefully) minor hiccup with the new external door position. Hopefully we can sort that out easily.. Simon |
07/16/2015, 02:59 PM | #122 |
RC Sponsor
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 3,990
|
Really clean looking!
__________________
Peter TankStop - Fish and Coral 470G Display - Build Thread Current Tank Info: Retired - 470 Gallon Mixed Reef (120x29x31") |
07/16/2015, 04:15 PM | #123 |
South Bay Reefer
|
Thanks
There's a long way to go, but it's at least starting out well I realize from most people's perspectives, this is all just happening recently, but it's been in planning for almost 9 months now. "I love it when a plan comes together" On the door front, it looks like they sorted out the issue (we have to move the door header across by 6"), so at least there ought to be no holdups. We were concerned about space restrictions outside, and impacting into a brick planter that's on the side of the house. All sorted Simon |
07/17/2015, 10:27 AM | #124 |
South Bay Reefer
|
Ive been framed!
So, more "renovation" than "reefing", but the framing is now done, for the tank surround, the new door out to the back garden, and the wall adjacent to that door.
There's no need for framing underneath the tank because the stand has 6 2x6's screwed to it, isolated using anti-vibration washers, which will act as the support for the greenboard later. As I left for work this morning, they were jack-hammering out the old door base (60 something years old cement) presumably ready for the new door to go in. For some reason they like installing the door before they stain them, but hey, they're the experts Simon. |
07/22/2015, 11:00 AM | #125 |
South Bay Reefer
|
Wired up
So the wiring is pretty much complete now. I had them put in a 4-gang (so 8 sockets in all) socket on the left-hand wall, which is where I'm going to put most of the electrical devices for the room...
... and on the other side of the room there is a 2-gang (so, 4 sockets) which will mainly be for the support tanks (quarantine, hospital, etc.) ... ... I also had them put in the extractor fan, which is controlled by a humidistat (yet to be installed, you can see it on top of the tank here). This will help me keep the humidity under control given that I have a large tank in a small fish-room... You can also see the lights that were installed behind the tank - 4 LED pot-lights in total, which ought to give adequate light. They'll be on a dimmer switch in case they're too bright When installing the sockets, I had them placed ~6' up the wall. No water dripping down wires for me! There are a total of 3 (2 new, 1 existing) 20A circuits in the room (providing a total of 16 sockets), which ought to be enough for going on with Simon |
|
|