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Unread 02/15/2016, 09:00 PM   #26
DBR_reef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csb123 View Post
Very cool. Does the used media portion ever dry out on its spindle?
If not it must get pretty heavy. Will that motor handle the torque?
The used media dries out a little- I'd call it moist. If you accidentally drop the supply roll in your sump then it gets really heavy on one side, doesn't really dry out, and doesn't un-spool smoothly.

I don't know about the motor I suggested to big rock, but my motor has a TON of torque- When I was building it I accidentally let a spool of material get stuck sideways- the motor sheared 1'' pvc- sounded like a gunshot.


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Unread 02/16/2016, 09:49 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenneth wolfe View Post
I like that idea, Rayon Polyester Blend so fully inert... 100 yard roll should last quite a while and for 20 bucks. they make a 10 5/8 roll as well


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Unread 05/14/2016, 07:15 AM   #28
TheFishGuy31
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Awesome build! I'll definitely be building one of these when I upgrade & my 75g becomes my sump.

Since you're using a 24v power supply you could use a 24v RIB & a float switch to get your media to last longer.


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Unread 05/14/2016, 07:50 AM   #29
DBR_reef
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I thought about doing that, but figured the timer was more reliable. The roll does last about 2 months as is. Can you explain how I would use the rib?


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Unread 05/15/2016, 02:57 PM   #30
TheFishGuy31
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A RIB is specific kind of relay. The one I use on my RO/DI setup is made by Functional Devices, Inc.

On the control side it accepts 10-30v to close the coil.

On the contactor side there are wires for common, normally open, and normally closed.

Whenever the coil has power (say you run 24v through a float switch to the control side) the contacts will change state. If you have your motor wired up to the Normally Open contacts then as soon as that float valve reaches a certain level it'll close, powering the coil. That'll cause the NO contacts to close & would run the motor until the float valve opened again.

I won't deny- there's always a chance for a float valve to fail & I'd make sure you find a float switch with long enough leads so that salt creep won't be an issue.


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Unread 05/15/2016, 03:18 PM   #31
DBR_reef
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Couldn't you just wire the float valve in line with the power. I.e. Use a float valve that is off when level is low


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Unread 05/16/2016, 05:52 PM   #32
TheFishGuy31
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You could, but it's unlikely the float valve is designed to have that much current drawn through it.


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Unread 06/02/2016, 01:30 PM   #33
Horace
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If it were me, I would design a manual version that all you had to do was crank it to get new floss. That would still be 100x better than using socks imo, and it could be FAR cheaper to produce.

That being said, I already bought the Rollermat on sale at BRS for $360....


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Unread 12/17/2016, 10:30 PM   #34
DBR_reef
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A commercial version is available! it will probably cost an arm and a leg, but available!
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2614456


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Unread 01/05/2017, 03:36 AM   #35
boxfishpooalot
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Can you reccomend an adaptor for the reccomended motor?


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Unread 01/05/2017, 08:01 PM   #36
boxfishpooalot
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Nobody knows what kind of ac adapter to use? Im wondering how many volts and amps


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Its a good idea to have a refrence sample for alk test kits. 1.1350 grams of baking soda in 1gallon of distilled water=10dkh. Check your alkalinity test kit!
Algae is Mother Natures phosphate remover

Current Tank Info: 220 galon mixed reef.
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Unread 01/05/2017, 08:08 PM   #37
DBR_reef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxfishpooalot View Post
Can you reccomend an adaptor for the reccomended motor?
I never bought that motor so I don't know, but I'm a big fan of using switchable dc adapters for diy projects. takes the guess work out of buying it
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISM267G/


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Unread 01/05/2017, 10:09 PM   #38
boxfishpooalot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBR_reef View Post
I never bought that motor so I don't know, but I'm a big fan of using switchable dc adapters for diy projects. takes the guess work out of buying it
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISM267G/
Thats pretty sweet! Thanks ill consider one of those


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Its a good idea to have a refrence sample for alk test kits. 1.1350 grams of baking soda in 1gallon of distilled water=10dkh. Check your alkalinity test kit!
Algae is Mother Natures phosphate remover

Current Tank Info: 220 galon mixed reef.
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Unread 01/05/2017, 10:29 PM   #39
boxfishpooalot
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Most of the small motors are rated under 6 amps. I wonder if that adaptor you linked is strong enough or too strong?


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Its a good idea to have a refrence sample for alk test kits. 1.1350 grams of baking soda in 1gallon of distilled water=10dkh. Check your alkalinity test kit!
Algae is Mother Natures phosphate remover

Current Tank Info: 220 galon mixed reef.
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Unread 01/06/2017, 02:33 AM   #40
boxfishpooalot
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So i contacted the seller and inwas told this:

"hi friend.

No-load current: 115mA

Load current: 550mA

Stall current: 3500mA

best regards"

So i guess anywhere from 1-2amps would be good?


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Its a good idea to have a refrence sample for alk test kits. 1.1350 grams of baking soda in 1gallon of distilled water=10dkh. Check your alkalinity test kit!
Algae is Mother Natures phosphate remover

Current Tank Info: 220 galon mixed reef.
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Unread 01/06/2017, 06:27 AM   #41
OzIA
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Motor option

I built a couple of these last year. Mine are more copies of the Roller Mat, using the drum design but I found this motor / worm gear on eBay for under $10. They have a 2 rpm option, which is nice and slow, ideal for this application. Also, they fit nicely in a 100 mm X 50mm X 68mm water proof box.


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Unread 01/06/2017, 11:24 PM   #42
boxfishpooalot
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Thats a nice option being slow. Too bad i bought tje other already.


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Its a good idea to have a refrence sample for alk test kits. 1.1350 grams of baking soda in 1gallon of distilled water=10dkh. Check your alkalinity test kit!
Algae is Mother Natures phosphate remover

Current Tank Info: 220 galon mixed reef.
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Unread 01/15/2017, 09:09 AM   #43
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tagging along.. would love one for my 900 gallon system .. I have two Iwaki 100rlt for returns ... so any links to DYI or larger for sale made ones ... lets post them .. thanks


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Current Tank Info: 500 gal starphire, reef sps dominated, 40 plus fish, 300 gallon sump in basement below, reeftek calcium reactor, reeftek kalkwasser reactor, lifeguard fluidized filter for rowaphose, 4 400MH 10k xm, 2 160 vho super attinic, DYI 50 gallon denitrator
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Unread 01/15/2017, 04:52 PM   #44
DBR_reef
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tagging along.. would love one for my 900 gallon system .. I have two Iwaki 100rlt for returns ... so any links to DYI or larger for sale made ones ... lets post them .. thanks
do you have a build thread or a description of your sump system?


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Unread 01/15/2017, 11:36 PM   #45
karimwassef
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Settling tank?


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Unread 01/16/2017, 09:06 PM   #46
DBR_reef
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Settling tank?
Settling tanks tend to not work as well as one would like- I actually tried both commercial and home made tanks. A lot of the particulates we are trying to filter have very similar densities to water, so they don't settle out well, requiring very large tanks. For very large systems back-flush sand filters work very well. But at 900 gallons I think a filter cloth type might still be the best option, as sand filters must be back flushed ~daily, so they use a lot of water.


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Unread 01/16/2017, 09:58 PM   #47
karimwassef
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I did not plan for a settling tank on my current design, but I got one by accident.

I set up a secondary tank...

It happened to have circular ends.
I accidentally designed it with flow entering pointed down the long side creating a continuous loop flow. I pointed this horizontally.
I unintentionally designed the output to be a central overflow.

 photo IMG_6062_zpsgxv1ekqb.jpg

And it turned into this

 photo 11A5D614-3CC1-497B-833D-AA8F7C59016D_zpsyzve1yip.jpg

I was upset so I cleaned it up and restarted...

 photo CDD50175-23DD-48DE-A53C-0BBA7A947E43_zps510gpn6f.jpg

And in a couple of days the detritus was back

Mind you my DT shows no detritus with very heavy wave action

And I was determined to use this aux tank for my coral surgery... so I pressed on

 photo 56FB9157-68D8-49EE-9F71-58DB662B93EC_zpsdtm4g6mj.jpg

I got really upset... until I saw worms

 photo 1763E2BE-2537-45EB-8AAF-57105D8C8690_zpshbc2zl5b.jpg

Hundreds of worms and pods just multiplying in the sediment

So, I put 600W of LEDs on it and let it go

With so much light, it turned into a combination settling tank + Algae scrubber

 photo 9B8AE2DF-0B26-4CF0-BC05-9C7E3C54E2C9_zpszg4ysnfh.jpg

In the meantime, my coral growth exploded and no algae appeared in my DT

So, I shut down my monster ATS and monster skimmer

And started collecting the algae to feed my tank

 photo 5099125F-5EAF-485C-92FC-2B156F0CA045_zpsh92zlgnd.jpg

The stuff was choking with pods

 photo 654C0AD9-0D6F-47C4-B757-78F5AF321B3F_zpsie2iyrbz.jpg

This has been going on for months...

 photo 62AF83E1-FE30-48D0-9648-B0D556F15A77_zps8gmqd8ff.jpg

And there's a layer of sedimentary detritus deep in that pool that is full of life. And my corals are running amuck.. due to the muck? I don't know

 photo 4A261F16-3008-4CFA-B046-391D6D9C3977_zps6ftrjkvz.jpg

(Picture in MH only. No LED or actinics)


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Unread 01/16/2017, 09:59 PM   #48
karimwassef
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I am planning a dedicated settling tank in my future tank. I had worked out the math but thought it was impossible or at least impractical... but like all innovation, - accidents and mistakes usually point the way.

The current incarnation is, of course, not a true settling tank. I don't export the detritus. I never planned such a thing so there's no cone for the stuff to flow down into a collecting pipe.

It's not even a true ATS because I don't export the algae either... so this breaks all rules. Designed (by accident) for the very lazy (or negligent) & poor reefer (can't buy a settling tank- too expensive).

My new design will have the option to export with a cone like base.


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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape

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Unread 01/17/2017, 07:49 AM   #49
DBR_reef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karimwassef View Post
I am planning a dedicated settling tank in my future tank. I had worked out the math but thought it was impossible or at least impractical... but like all innovation, - accidents and mistakes usually point the way.

The current incarnation is, of course, not a true settling tank. I don't export the detritus. I never planned such a thing so there's no cone for the stuff to flow down into a collecting pipe.

It's not even a true ATS because I don't export the algae either... so this breaks all rules. Designed (by accident) for the very lazy (or negligent) & poor reefer (can't buy a settling tank- too expensive).

My new design will have the option to export with a cone like base.
This definitely looks like it is working as a settling tank, but it is a much larger volume than many can have. It would bet that the algae is acting as a filter floss and polishing your water as well.


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Unread 01/17/2017, 10:16 AM   #50
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Yes. But I feed it back to the fish and the detritus caught in it is consumed or scattered again. It's a closed food loop but a very energetic one.


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