70 Seahorse build

[el aguila]

I was able to get a free 70G setup from a club member who was moving. While it is pretty complete, I'll probably end up upgrading much of the equipment for seahorses.

Present plan is to setup the tank next month and wait until next spring to actually add horses.

This gives me plenty of time to do some quality research. I've joined some seahorse forums. Presently in the process of reading through all threads on seahorses here and some other forums. Any links for quality info on seahorses would be deeply appreciated.

[el aguila]

First question on flow/rockwork:

The tank does have a custom built sump and a corner overflow.

There is also quite abit of rock that are long 12-20" narrow pieces of rock. Thinking of setting the rock on end to create several spires covered with zoas, xenia, gorgonians, algaes, coral replica hitching posts, and other colorful softies. To me it sounds cool to see a kuda swimming between colorful spires on a lap around the tank.

Probably going to swap the existing Mag drive return for a DC pump with variable speeds. Not looking for a ton of flow out of the return.

For my main flow thinking of going old school with a closed loop plumbed over the back. I even have an old 4way sitting around that I could use. Probably use an external DC for this also, so that I can dial it in at a sweet spot rather than buy a pump and be unhappy with it because of too much or too little flow.

Anyway, in older literature I see recommendations for hardly any flow. In newer stuff the opposite that flow is essential for maintaining a healthy tank.

How much flow should I aim for out of the CL pump?

For the outlets with an OM, thinking of spraybars in the back corners vertical down the back, and then a single outlet on both ends at the top.

I have also read somewhere that rock should not be against the glass because seahorses can get stuck between the glass and rock. Is this a concern?

The only place that I would have rock against anything is in the back by the overflow to hide some of my CL plumbing and also using this same rock to hide the CL as a vertical anchor to brace some of the spires with tonga branch and or shelf rock.

[vlangel]

Hi and welcome to the world of seahorses. I applaud you patience in doing lots of research prior to obtaining your SH. That will pay off, I am sure.
I am no expert, but in terms of flow, the most experienced keepers recommend areas of high flow, moderate flow and low flow. It seems at times seahorses enjoy hitching right in front of a powerhead and being blown and buffeted. At other times they want a quiet place to hitch in a low flow area. The total turnover should be pretty high however, at least 10 Xs.
I have most of my rockwork away from the back wall just because. My own experience is that seahorses can wiggle into tight spots. My female likes to go way down into my macro algaes, cheato and caulerpa to hunt. Once she was gone over a day and I moved the macros out of the way and she swam out seemingly relieved. I think she got tangled in the macros and got stuck. I keep them thinned out more now.

[el aguila]

I've pretty well decided that I'll upgrade the skimmer that came with this tank to get one rated for a higher tank volume and run 5 micron filter socks.

I'll be able to plumb the tank to the same salt water mixing station that I use for my reef tank, so frequent water changes will be relatively easy to do.

Would like to have 3-4 pairs of horses - possibly kudas.

In my research, I've seen some people also using canister filters. Although I've had a reef tank for several years, I'm pretty ignorant about canister filters. Can anyone recommend one or features in a canister filter that are important to get? Not sure that I'll get one, but if I start having problems with high nutrients in the tank - I'ld like to have a backup plan.

[rayjay]

While I have a cannister filter, I'd never use it for a seahorse tank.
Water quality is such an issue with seahorses that if you don't always clean out the cannister filter every 5 to 7 days then you risk ramping up the nasty bacteria populations that seahorses are so vulnerable to.
When I used the cannister on one of my reef tanks, I found that in time, I got lazy and didn't clean it as often as I should. For a reef tank it's not as disasterous as it is for seahorses.

[el aguila]

rayjay, thank you for your comment.

I believe that running a filter sock, over-sized skimmer, plenty of flow in the tank, and having algaes in both display and fuge should be enough to keep things under control, but my experience in reef keeping says that things don't always go as they should.

Therefore I want to at least be thinking about something as a backup in the event that things got out of control. I do have a diatom filter that I could throw on the for a week or so if needed.

[rayjay]

If the cannister filter wasn't trapping anything, then there would be no reason to use one. If it is trapping anything, then it becomes food and bedding for nasty bacteria. JMO

[pledosophy]

Canister filters are unnecessary IME.

The most important thing is proper nutrition. Then making sure the tank temp will stay 74F or under. Then getting your flow right.

It's not that hard, just different.

IME caring for 8 seahorses in a 120g, I recommend carbon dosing as well. You are going to be feeding a ton of food, carbon dosing will be a huge help.

HTH

[el aguila]

Ok, I'll forget a canister filter.

On temperature control, I'll use the same thing that I use on my reef tank. I have 1/4" plastic tubing coiled in my sump and run well water through it. Controlled by temp controller and solenoid. I'm able to keep my reef spot on the same temp all the time. Probably will keep my SH tank about 70. Excess water goes out to my landscape pond to top off in NC summer.

On flow, still thinking about a closed loop - the OM is not working though. Looking into seeing what it would take to get it going. Also thinking about making a DIY wavebox.

[pledosophy]

Closed loop will be your best bet for seahorses. Unlike corals, seahorses don't really appreciate the random or alternating flow. Most succsessful seahorse tanks I have run have been a closed loop that returns through spraybars. The rocks are then aquascaped around the spraybars. This gets all the extra detritus, or fallen food out of the rock work and into the water column so it can be eaten, or handled by the filtration.

Really interesting way to cool a tank, I have never heard of anyone doing that before.

[el aguila]

Originally Posted by pledosophy

Closed loop will be your best bet for seahorses. Unlike corals, seahorses don't really appreciate the random or alternating flow. Most succsessful seahorse tanks I have run have been a closed loop that returns through spraybars. The rocks are then aquascaped around the spraybars. This gets all the extra detritus, or fallen food out of the rock work and into the water column so it can be eaten, or handled by the filtration.

Really interesting way to cool a tank, I have never heard of anyone doing that before.

I can't claim the idea for cooling like this - Got the idea from Randy Farley-Holmes. Here again, you about have to be on well water. Some city pipe lines may not be deep enough here in the south.

Concerning flow, I did read of someone using a Tunze nano wavebox in their seahorse tank. I've thought of making a DIY wavebox using one of the smaller DC powerheads.

I've never had a wavebox, but just looking into it. Not looking to blast water in the tank, but would like to have some gentle back and forth movement.

[el aguila]

I might also mention that I read that Dan uses K1 Kaldnes in his systems. I have some, but am unsure of how one would set it up to be used for a 70 Gallon seahorse tank. I know that it needs flow to tumble it, and I believe air pumped in. Just not sure of the easiest way and size needed to DIY some sort of a reactor.

[pledosophy]

Kaldnes works, Bioballs do much of the same thing. It's just a filter media for breaking down ammonia and nitrite into nitrate. The bacteria in live rock does the same thing also.

I have always just relied on the liverock, and about 9 years ago started using a protein skimmer as well. Now I find that between the rock, the protein skimmer, and carbon dosing I do not have a need for any additional filtration in my system. Sometimes the less complicated systems do better overall.

[el aguila]

I'm starting to make some progress:

I'm about 90% done with a new acrylic sump. The one that came with the tank does not have any compartments big enough for my cooling tubing plus my skimmer I need to rout the top, touch up some of the interior glue, and put in some probe/sensor mounts and it will be done.

I've beefed up the stand and am putting new coats of finish on it.

Today, I picked up a blue tinted transparent piece of acrylic for a shadow box behind the tank.

I'ld post pics, but family is visiting relatives out of town and they have the camera with them.

[vlangel]

I will be anxious to see pics when the family gets back with the camera. Sounds like things are progressing nicely.

[el aguila]

I've had a really rough time getting to the tank lately - one weekend the hot water heater went out, 2 weekend in a row were taken up moving my daughter to an apartment, etc.

I've had to do things like put FRP board on the walls of my fish room, reinforce floor joist, reinforce my stand, etc that are time consuming.

Anyway, I got to work on it Saturday and Monday afternoons.

Here is the plumbing and electrical coming up from my fish room below. On the back of the stand you can see the shelf to support the shadowbox.




I have an old OM 4 way that I've taken out the drum and using as a manifold to divide the closed loop spray bars. Here is the plumbing for this under the shadowbox shelf.




Here is the tank as it sits now. Spray bars are cut and ready to be drilled. Plus I need to connect plumbing in my fish room and I'll be ready for water.

[vlangel]

You're getting there. I am curious, what is the shadow box for? I think of shadow boxes for knickknacks but I am sure that is not what you plan.

[el aguila]

The idea is to create the illusion that you are looking through the tank into the depths of the ocean rather than just painting the back of the tank.

Here is a few pics on this thread about it.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...kground&page=8

I have a blue piece of acrylic that will get sanded and placed in the first groove next to the tank. Then I'll place a sheet of 1/2" plywood painted from a light blue to a dark blue. I'll probably put some structure in it also. Then you put a light at the top shining down in between the two.

[vlangel]

Wow, that is super cool. I worked in a lfs servicing tanks and I dealt with a lot of set ups but never saw that. The effect is certainly worth the extra effort.

[el aguila]

Originally Posted by vlangel

Wow, that is super cool. I worked in a lfs servicing tanks and I dealt with a lot of set ups but never saw that. The effect is certainly worth the extra effort.

I've never seen one in person either, but when I saw that thread - I thought I have to try this one out!

[tsunade]

I'm following this, sound interesting. Maybe ill step into seahorse after all

[el aguila]

I spent about 2 hours drilling holes for the closed loop intake and spray bars.

[el aguila]

I then made a mock up of the tank out of plywood with PVC to figure our the rock work.



You will also notice the tools of the trade - saw and grinder with diamond tipped blades, drill with masonry bit, and some 1/4" fiberglass rods.

I also used zip ties and epoxy putty with super glue on it.

[el aguila]

And I finally have water in the tank!!!

[redhorse]

WOW! Nice job....