Microfood culture: phytoplanktons, Rotifers, ciliates, Artemia, and copepods

[CLINTOS]

Originally posted by Atticus
IMO it doesn't really matter how long it takes for them to foul because you truely do not know what you have grown. This method may be ok for reef tank additions, but I need to know what I am feeding my rotifers for my baby clowns and bangaii so I can ensure they are getting the proper levels of nutrients.
As far as shelf life goes nanno is useless way before it dies. As it sits in storage it will slowly use its stored nutrients to maintain its own life thus leaving an empty cell with little or no nutrient value. With homegrown phyto in a clear refridgerated container you should use it up within 2-3 weeks. It is also necissary to shake the bottles at least once every couple days to resuspend the cells.

that explain's why I had such good result's with homemade nano
I alway's used a full 2 litre under 3 week's on my 20G

what is the red phyto is it good to grow along with nano?

is the hufa higher or the cell size different?

[CLINTOS]

Originally posted by jake levi
Re culture containers :

I have used with success inverted 5 gallon water jugs with the bottoms cut off and the necks siliconed with a tap. These stand in a rack, with an air stone hanging down into the neck,

this will keep artemia, phytoplankton and rotifers in suspension.

Be sure to keep the jugs with the phytoplankton away from the rotifers, if the green water gets contaminated you'll ahve a great rotifer culture instead.

Depending on the set up you can use overhead flourescents and/or upright vertical lights next to the jugs.

seen a pic of that somewhere long time agoa I think I will impliment thank's

[irishrose302]

ok, although I would love to read through every page on this thread - I honestly do not have the time to do so so please forgive me if this has been addressed.

I currently have a new batch of yellow watchman goby fry that need the "S" strain of rotifers. I cannot find any locally nor remotely.


PLEASE HELP if you have any or now of another viable food source for YWG fry as my research has yielded only the above mentioned rotifers!!

I have already contacted reed mariculture and they do not carry them.

[irishrose302]

sorry double post

[raaden]

FAF Florida Aqua Farms are your best bet. They normally have them ready and instock.

Irishrose,
If you have any trouble with FAF contact me directly there is another source I prefer not to name here... Also have you tried Brandon I think he had a good source for his clownfish.

[irishrose302]

Originally posted by raaden
FAF Florida Aqua Farms are your best bet. They normally have them ready and instock.

Irishrose,
If you have any trouble with FAF contact me directly there is another source I prefer not to name here... Also have you tried Brandon I think he had a good source for his clownfish.

thank you

I will contact FAF tomorrow

[nuriozer]

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Mako
Another good reference. FAO FISHERIES TECHNICAL PAPER
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Thank's

[dwdowney]

Where can you find warm water copepodes?

[GreshamH]

All copepods on the market are fine in warm water. Just google copepod.

[saltwater4life1]

I'm sorry if i missed this but is there anywhere i can buy both rotifers and phyto? I found quite a few places but they ether sold one or the other. Just wondering, Or should i get the phyto going first before i start culturing rotifer?

Thanks,
~Nick

[billsreef]

As far as both from the same supplier, Florida Aqua Farms, Aquatic Ecosystems (FAF is their supplier), and I believe Seahorse Source. Might be some others, but those are the ones I know of off the top of my head.

[Zooid]

Unless you buy the concentrated stuff like RotiGrow Plus or Nanno3600, you'll have to start your phyto first. If you buy the rotifer cysts, then you can still buy the nanno culture and cysts at the same time. If you need to get going fast, the best way in my experience is to use the RotiGrow Plus and live rotifers from Reed Mariculture. I had a harvestable culture in a few days.

[saltwater4life1]

Thanks for the links Bill,
Thanks Zooid,
That's what i was thinking. I'll just start the algae first and maybe i can find someone with rotifer locally to save me from having to pay for overnight shipping...
Whats better to start my culture the instant disks or live nanno?

[GreshamH]

Another solution for not paying shipping is to have a Reef Nutrition (Reed Mariculture) dealer near you order you some rotifers when they do their next RN order.

[GreshamH]

Originally Posted by billsreef

Aquatic Ecosystems (FAF is their supplier)

As is Reed Mariculture (for some of their rotifers)

[sterling18]

Amazing this thread is still up and running and not just an FAQ.

[WaffleWalffle22]

I feed my rotifers 3 times each day and keep the water the color of pea soup. Between feedings, the water becomes lighter green. Are the rotifers eating the food or is something wrong?

[billsreef]

The rots are hungry little beasts

[dirtStar]

Originally Posted by WaffleWalffle22

I feed my rotifers 3 times each day and keep the water the color of pea soup. Between feedings, the water becomes lighter green. Are the rotifers eating the food or is something wrong?

What are you feeding?

Just remember, too much feed, and the uneaten food will decay and also cause a crash. It will def foul the water quickly.

I think one of my batches (or two) have come to this.

I need to change water!!!

[dirtStar]

Curious, if the batch of rotifers turns a bit cloudy, it is bad?
It doesnt smell funky, but it is cloudy and I have not experienced this before.
Also, the rots are not a high density...has dropped to almost nothing in a few days.
I have only been feeding daily and not harvesting.

[Zooid]

sounds like bacteria may have taken over.
do a 100% water change fast. You can still save it.
It's always best to harvest each day. If you are just feeding, then the larger rotifers that no longer produce eggs may
be eating up all the food that could be used by fertile rotifers, starving the egg holding rotifers.

[Bud's Reef]

This may have been asked and discussed but I haven't been able to find it. Is there a difference between San Fransico brine shrimp eggs and Great Salt Lake eggs?

[landlord]

Except from one of GreshamH's posts

Current SFB Artemia are rated @ 80%
The average nauplii length is approximately 425 microns.
Guaranteed Analysis: Protein — 60%, Fat — 24%, Ash — 4.4%, Moisture — 8.5%
Nauplii per gram @ 80% = 280,000
Known for their high lipid levels or HUFA’s, these cysts are 100% Artemia franciscana harvested from the San Francisco Bay salt ponds. The processing technology, using fluidized-bed dryers, results in a shell-free product with excellent separation.

GSL Artemia are rated @ 90% (from Artemia International)
Average nauplii size at hatching is 440 microns.
Guaranteed Analysis: Protein - 60%, Fat - 24%, Ash - 4.4%, Moisture - 8.5%
Nauplii per gram @ 90% = 250,000
Artemia cysts (brine shrimp) are certified virus free by the University of Arizona Aquaculture Pathology Laboratory

HTH

[usctrack]

I have read every page of this thread and the links at the beginning and LOVE the information. I have ordered my disks from Florida Aqua Farms but am still waiting.
In the meantime I have also ordered some brine shimp and will give that a try.

My question is when you say a 100% water change, how are you doing that and keeping the nanno and roti? are you filtering? Just curious and havent seen that part explained.

[Bud's Reef]

Thanks Kurt!

Originally Posted by landlord

Except from one of GreshamH's posts

Current SFB Artemia are rated @ 80%
The average nauplii length is approximately 425 microns.
Guaranteed Analysis: Protein — 60%, Fat — 24%, Ash — 4.4%, Moisture — 8.5%
Nauplii per gram @ 80% = 280,000
Known for their high lipid levels or HUFA’s, these cysts are 100% Artemia franciscana harvested from the San Francisco Bay salt ponds. The processing technology, using fluidized-bed dryers, results in a shell-free product with excellent separation.

GSL Artemia are rated @ 90% (from Artemia International)
Average nauplii size at hatching is 440 microns.
Guaranteed Analysis: Protein - 60%, Fat - 24%, Ash - 4.4%, Moisture - 8.5%
Nauplii per gram @ 90% = 250,000
Artemia cysts (brine shrimp) are certified virus free by the University of Arizona Aquaculture Pathology Laboratory

HTH