Tunze nano mod

[jacmyoung]

Originally posted by dhnguyen
jacmyoung... The retooling I was talking about is for a redesigned shroud which would incorporate some very simple mods to increase the flow and also add a prop stopper to make the nano more efficient (basically all the stuff that you have been doing to the nano). Remember even a small and simple change will require retooling for the new mold and that costs major money when you're talking about mass production.

Speaking of changes in design, I noted that the Hydor K pumps have recently started using ceramic shafts. Bad idea IMHO, we all know how fragile ceramic is... Better to stay with stainless steel or use a better/stronger material likie carbon fiber IMO.


D.

Your points are very well taken. I am not holding my breadth that Tunze will implement major changes or roll out new nano pumps. They can't even keep up with the demand as it is. Hydor is also fully aware of the broken ceramic shaft issue.

I think it is very important to most this message, even though most of the reefers already know. While doing any of the mods and tests:

Never have any part of your body in the wet while any electrical device is turned on, always plug your gears into GFCI protected outlet, and don't assume the protection works, test it with a little GFCI tester before any work. Switch off and unplug hardware before getting your hands wet.

For those test where pumps must be held by hand, use a simple strip of material to hold the pump by clamping the magnet holders on to it.

[jacmyoung]

Forgot to ask you Don, with the 6055 driving a trimmed 6200 prop, the transformer is too warm to the touch. While the current is under the rated 1.2A on the transformer, is it still a good idea to look for a third party transformer?

There are many out there that have higher amp ratings. I have a few laptop transformers rated 3.42A but they are only 19V. It seems a 24V is hard to find.

Any thoughts on that?

[jacmyoung]

I did find a third party variable voltage transformer (18V to 24V) rated 3.5A on Ebay, will see how it performs. I am pretty sure the overheating issue on the Tunze transformer can be resolved.

While doing the shopping it came to me, can we find an automated DC switch that can be connected to both transformers, one set at 12V, the other 24V. If the switch can flip between the two connections, we will have a DIY wavemaker, alternating the flow between 100% (24V) and 18% (12V). The switch preferably can be set on various time interval, say 1 second or 5 seconds. And to take it further, if somehow two pumps are used on the opposite sides of the tank, by switching them from 100% to 18% alternately, wouldn't we have a Tunze multicontroller minus all the other fancy gigs? And the time interval if can be set according to the length of the tank, some nice wave can be generated.

One thing I observed with my Tunze single controller (same for the multicontroller) is while it is nice to be able to switch from 100% to 30%, the 30% flow is still too much to have a true wave effect. Between 100% and 18% would be nicer, even better would be 100% and 5%, if it will not harm the pump. Of course the pump should be on all the time to avoid fish get caught in it.

Any thoughts on this idea and where might we find a switch like the above?

[mr pink floyd]

no idea where to find the switch, but you have a great idea there...

[jacmyoung]

I am just as clueless but a term such as "low voltage DC relays..." kept popping in my head

Any electrical or electronics engineers out there?

[laverda]

Originally posted by jacmyoung
They are faux coral, there is a full tank picture a few pages back.

Thanks, I don't know how I missed that page of the thread. I kind of figured they were faux, but they look nice all the same. It would look really nice with the real thing.

Great thread guys!

[jacmyoung]

Originally posted by jacmyoung
I am just as clueless but a term such as "low voltage DC relays..." kept popping in my head

Any electrical or electronics engineers out there?

I was thanking about an alternative pulsing method and read a member mentioning the same on another thread.

The idea is connecting two transformers (one 12V, the other 24V) in parallel, plug them into a wavemaker. The wavemaker will turn them on and off alternately in pre-elected interval therefore sending the pump alternating DC voltages.

I don't know if such hookup will adversely impact the transformers. The Pump should be running continuously between 100% and 18% speeds.

If a lower DC voltage can be used on the pump, say I have a few 6V transformers collecting dust, then switching between 24V and 6V will give 100% and maybe 5% alternating flows.

Of course with two pumps four transformers will be needed, but if it works, sure beats buying a multicontroller.

Yes or no? Where is everyone? Maybe Ron was right, even thinking about DIYing Tunze is such an oxymoron.

[dhnguyen]

The problem with what you're trying to do with the 2 transformers is that your timers MUST be synchronized exactly the same. Otherwise you could fry the pump when both transformers turn hot at the same moment so to speak. This will be very tricky to do.

[jacmyoung]

Originally posted by dhnguyen
The problem with what you're trying to do with the 2 transformers is that your timers MUST be synchronized exactly the same. Otherwise you could fry the pump when both transformers turn hot at the same moment so to speak. This will be very tricky to do.

So you don't trust the regular power strip type wavemaker to provide clean switching then?

[dhnguyen]

Originally posted by jacmyoung
So you don't trust the regular power strip type wavemaker to provide clean switching then?

It may be possible to use a better controller like a Neptune, something that uses a microprocessor to precisely control the timing. But no I wouldn't trust just any regular power strip type wavetimer. Alternatively, you can probabbly build one as well if you know how to program in assembly.

D.

[jacmyoung]

Thank you Don, sorry miss typed your name earlier.

[jacmyoung]

I have been running my modded 6055 on a Tunze single controller pulsing from 100% to 30%. I felt 30% is still not small enough a flow to have a true wave effect. Since th Tunze controllers were all designed for the Streams which can not have minimum flow less than 25% of the full flow, I can understand the 30% minimum flow set on the controllers.

But the 6055 can be slowed to at least 18% of the maximum flow, and by alternating between 100% and 18% (or even 10%) I think it will make the pulsing more effective. There is of course a limit at slow flow below which the motor can be damaged.

So I decided to open up the controller and show the board, in hope that some of your EE experts can help me out:



The controller has three potentiometers, the one on the upper left is for pulsing interval control, two at the center are for flow control. The one on the top is usually set at 100%, and the lower one set at 30% (minimum dial).

I assume the potentiometers by design can adjust from 0 to 100 so to limit the low dial to no less than 30% some resistors (?) are added. I circled in red two resistors that are connected to each terminal of both flow control potentiometers.

Maybe by hot-wiring one or both of the resistors we should be able to make it happen?

Any help would be appreciated since I am clueless when it comes to circuit boards.

[NewSchool04]

I came home and one of my modded 6025 was not spinning. I could feel the pump vibrating but no spin. I tried to unplug and then plug it in, did that a couple of time and nothing. I finally got it running by tweaking the propeller with a long stick.
The pump has been running a little under a week.

Anyone else have this problem?

[dhnguyen]

Open it up and make sure the shaft isn't broken or loose inside.

[NewSchool04]

It's def. not broken and didn't feel like it was loose. I'm wondering if other people that have modded the 6025 have seen this happen or if this is normal for modded Tunzes.

[jacmyoung]

Originally posted by NewSchool04
It's def. not broken and didn't feel like it was loose. I'm wondering if other people that have modded the 6025 have seen this happen or if this is normal for modded Tunzes.

What kind of mods did you do? I haven't heard any mods causing problem yet except maybe the soft stopper mod that can cause the prop getting jammed. Make sure you were checking the metal shaft if it can be pulled out or not. It supposed to stay in firm, not loose.

[NewSchool04]

I did the first mod. The one you carve out the thin plastic extra tubing. Maybe it was just a fluke, I just hope so.

[jacmyoung]

No that can not be the cause. If the metal shaft is firmly planted in, try to clean the pump with vinegar solution overnight especially the prop driver and see if that will help.

BTW someone suggested a quick and easy way to test my above theory so I tried and it was indeed quick and easy and it worked.

I simply had to bypass (hot-wire) both resistors shown in the previous picture, set both potentiometers at 50% and adjusted them from there. I was able to get the controller to drive the pump between 100% and 15% cycle. Also checked the max DC voltage to be 23.7V, max DC current at 1.18A, all fell in the acceptable range. The total watts cycled between 9W and 36W since my 6055 motor was driving a trimmed 6200 prop. The flow was of course pulsing between 450 gph to near 3,000 gph.

Below is a picture of the testing equipment in action:


I was surprised by the fact that the Tunze controller did not change the DC voltage input to the pump in order to change the speed, the voltage was a constant 23.7V when the controller was in use. Not being an EE major I can only speculate there are some electronics in both the controller and the pump motor in order to communicate to each other.

Of course this mod was temporary and for testing only. I put the controller back together unchanged afterwards. It however proved a controller specific designed for the lower minimum flow (18%) of the 6055 pumps isn't going to be difficult.

[Icefire]

Originally posted by NewSchool04
I came home and one of my modded 6025 was not spinning. I could feel the pump vibrating but no spin. I tried to unplug and then plug it in, did that a couple of time and nothing. I finally got it running by tweaking the propeller with a long stick.
The pump has been running a little under a week.

Anyone else have this problem?

Mine don't restart if I unplug it, I need a stick to give it a push. My pump do need some cleaning.

[jacmyoung]

In that case I have to give the Hydor Koralia pumps a plug. Their prop drivers are much smaller than the motor cavities, unlike the Tunze with very precise fit. As a result the K pumps uses more energy and are much bigger in size for the similarly rated flow. But they need less maintenance also.

If all possible try to avoid direct light on the pump so hard algae do not grow in it as easily, but that is not always an option.

On a side note, now that my controller is capable of 0% to 100% pulsing, I will probably use my modded 6055 and controller to do a DIY wavebox just for fun. Again not permanent just for testing purpose. If successful, someone may find it a good alternative to the $500+ Tunze wavebox.

[skydancer]

Originally posted by jacmyoung

I was surprised by the fact that the Tunze controller did not change the DC voltage input to the pump in order to change the speed, the voltage was a constant 23.7V when the controller was in use. Not being an EE major I can only speculate there are some electronics in both the controller and the pump motor in order to communicate to each other.

man you've been busy!!!
I was out of town for a few days, and I came back to see the guts of the controller out...etc... well done..

The reason the DC voltage doesn't seem to change is because the multimeter can not respond to the new voltage change this fast. You need a scope to see the DC voltage change but believe me it does... The 6055 has a dc motor and it responds to dc voltage changes. The frequency of how often the voltage changes is what makes the "pulsing" action of the wave.

[jacmyoung]

Originally posted by skydancer
man you've been busy!!!
I was out of town for a few days, and I came back to see the guts of the controller out...etc... well done..

The reason the DC voltage doesn't seem to change is because the multimeter can not respond to the new voltage change this fast. You need a scope to see the DC voltage change but believe me it does... The 6055 has a dc motor and it responds to dc voltage changes. The frequency of how often the voltage changes is what makes the "pulsing" action of the wave.

Good to know, I thought the speed was controlled by changing voltage. And thank you for the links on the multimeter and accessories, as you can see from the picture above they work together like a charm.

With one modded 6045 pumping close to 1500 gph, and the 6055 pulsing from 870 gph to 2900 gph, the tank is now washed clean of fish waste, sand bed is all white again, the skimmer in the sump is working overtime collecting all the junk. I am tempted to order another 6055 but I know I will mod it again and my tank has no need of that much flow, maybe it's time to upgrade the tank to say 300g

[hounddog01]

Way cool ideas. I have read most of this thread. I have both a 6025 and 6045. I have been contiplating purchasing another 6045 but think I will mod a 6025 instead. I do use these on a wave maker and switch them every 30 minutes in a accelerated flow design.

My question, and I am sorry if it has already been discussed, if you put a 6045 cover on the 6025 does that make as much difference as removing the internal shroud?

Thank You to everyone who responds.

[jacmyoung]

No Brad, they don't cross fit each other, you just have to get off your lazy *&^ and do that 5-minute mod for your 6025!

The value of 6045 is now clear, I don't know if that is worth the extra $30 but after the mod there is no concern of self-correct problem because the stopper is already built-in. Even if you don't want to be bothered with fitting a bigger prop to pump out 1500 gph, the fact the 6045 has a stronger motor ensures that it will continue to run even if a little buildup is in the motor. It requires less maintenance.

[hounddog01]

So you are saying that the 6045 is probably worth the extra $30 if I want less maintenance. This is good to know because I travel often and my wife watches the tank.