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Unread 08/01/2019, 04:24 AM   #1
Bremenguppie
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Sick fish

Since I cant post a picture. I'm pretty sure my fish have ick. I'll ne headed to fish store today to see if the have some treatment i can put in the tank. Hopefully it's not to late. Anyone else ever deal with ick and what's best way to rid the tank of it.


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Unread 08/01/2019, 06:48 AM   #2
Uncle99
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Ick cannot be resolved in the tank
Once identified, the fish must be treated outside the DT in a separate QT tank
There are only three ways to treat, TTM, Hypo, Copper

The DT must run without fish for 72 days.

There’s a ton of info on how each works on this site



Last edited by Uncle99; 08/01/2019 at 06:54 AM.
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Unread 08/01/2019, 02:56 PM   #3
hkgar
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How treat ick, There are only 3 ways, everything else is snake oil. Do you have inverts in your tank? If not you can do Hypo in the DT.


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180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx

Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels
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Unread 08/02/2019, 02:23 AM   #4
Bremenguppie
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Yes I've got inverts. I looked at a couple options and on the advise of the fish store they recommended I use ich-x. They said copper is the best way but do to all my inverts they recommended going with the ich-x. I also picked up some test kits for nitrates and phosphate. I find that my levels are a little high. I started first treatment t yesterday and will do 20% water changes for next 3 days and hopefully I can get everything back under control. Also leaving the lights off for next 3 days as well.


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Unread 08/02/2019, 04:54 AM   #5
hkgar
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from: http://www.hikariusa.com/wp/solutions/healthaid/ich-x/
"INGREDIENTS

water, formaldehyde (<5%), methanol (<2%), malachite green chloride (<0.1%)
Recommendations: Use Ich-X to treat conditions related to ich and ich related disease".

I do not see copper listed. Ich-x = snake oil. Always remember that when you ask the LFS a question, their goal is to find a product they have on their shelves to answer your question with.

Copper is not recommended for treatment of Ich
in the DT as it has very detrimental effects on inverts and once copper is introduced is becomes part of the live rock and typically cannot be completely removed. The best "copper" treatment is Cupramaine and should be done in a hospital tank and not the DT.

"


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180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx

Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels
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Unread 08/02/2019, 05:17 AM   #6
Bremenguppie
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What is hypo?


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Unread 08/02/2019, 05:52 AM   #7
Uncle99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bremenguppie View Post
What is hypo?
Ick-x translates to certain death

Hypo salinity is the process of lowering salinity to 1.009 until ick is clear.
It will kill anything but fish so you must do that in separate tank.

Treatment depends on which fish you are treating.

If you don’t follow the recommendations of treating Ick, all your fish will die!

They attach, the feed on the fish, they fall, they multiply x 100, they swim, they attach and so until each fish becomes so weak, they die.

They have limited time, get them out.



Last edited by Uncle99; 08/02/2019 at 06:03 AM.
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Unread 08/02/2019, 06:12 AM   #8
Bremenguppie
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Okay I will. I've got a smaller tank I can set up as a recovery tank. If you do the hypo way do u have to remove all your live rock as well or just your fish and inverts? How long do you keep the sanity at 1.09 to know you got all the ich?


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Unread 08/02/2019, 06:28 AM   #9
Apercula
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Hypo is fish only. Leave the rock and inverts in main tank.


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Unread 08/02/2019, 06:31 AM   #10
Bremenguppie
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Okay thanks. I'll get it set up. How long does it take to kill it all doing the hypo any idea? What a pain in ***..


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Unread 08/02/2019, 06:41 AM   #11
Uncle99
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You will maintain 1.009 salinity for 14 days past when the last dot is gone.
Then you will bring your salinity up at .001 each day until you reach 1.025
They will stay in this tank until the DT is ready, 72 days after taking fish out.
Exchange 10% water at 1.009 each day and vacuum up any uneaten food and waste this will keep ammonia from building up


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Unread 08/02/2019, 08:29 AM   #12
Bremenguppie
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Well I've lost my two eels. Only thing left is two damsels, some emerald crabs, blue leg crabs, horse shoe crab and bunch snails. So I dont know what way is right way to go to clean up this mess


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Unread 08/02/2019, 08:32 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bremenguppie View Post
Well I've lost my two eels. Only thing left is two damsels, some emerald crabs, blue leg crabs, horse shoe crab and bunch snails. So I dont know what way is right way to go to clean up this mess
Pull the damsels, give them to a LFS, and go fallow (fishless) in your DT for 76 days.

Moving forward, quarantine all fish purchases so this doesn't happen again.


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Unread 08/02/2019, 08:49 AM   #14
Bremenguppie
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So should I still take the salinity lever down to 1.009 for 14 days and still go through the steps or just leave it fish less for 76 days and let the ich die out on its own


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Unread 08/02/2019, 09:53 AM   #15
hkgar
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Read through this thread. It is very short.

Once the fish are removed from the DT the DT MUST remain fallow (fishless) for 72 days before any fish are reintroduced. I have done hypo but much prefer TTM. Part of your procedure for ALL new fish should include TTM and then at least another two weeks of QT.

Not taking precautions is like playing Russian roulette with your tank. I didn't take precautions and lost 9 fish to Ich. I can completely emphasize with your situation.


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180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx

Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels
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Unread 08/02/2019, 10:49 AM   #16
Bremenguppie
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I'm realizing that sorry to be a pain in *** but I appreciate everyone's help. What does TTW stand for? I'm not up on all the abbreviations yet lol


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Unread 08/02/2019, 12:45 PM   #17
hkgar
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TTM is Tank Transfer Method.


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180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx

Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels
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Unread 08/02/2019, 02:21 PM   #18
Bremenguppie
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Okay thank you. I'll stop bugging everyone. Thanks for all the help.


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Unread 08/03/2019, 07:31 AM   #19
Uncle99
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Remove damsels and Do nothing at all for 72 days but maintain tank as normal.
At that point, the ick is gone

Your not bugging anyone, that is what this site is for

Good luck


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Unread 08/03/2019, 07:49 AM   #20
hkgar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bremenguppie View Post
I'm realizing that sorry to be a pain in *** but I appreciate everyone's help. What does TTW stand for? I'm not up on all the abbreviations yet lol
Not a pain at all. We are here to help and have all asked questions when first starting out. Lot's to learn on this site.


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180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx

Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels
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Unread 08/03/2019, 03:33 PM   #21
Bremenguppie
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That's no kidding. I've learned a lot already. My tank will now be sitting for next 72 days. I researched the TTM and will be following that when getting anymore fish. I ended up losing the damsels in the QT so lessened learned and wont happen again


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Unread 08/03/2019, 04:01 PM   #22
hkgar
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Welcome to the joys of reefing, where the learning never stops. I've been at it almost 20 years and com here (Reef Central) every day to see what I might learn and also to help out.

Someday, down the road, I look forward to seeing you giving advice to a newbie!
Gary's 2 rules of reefing
1. Take things slow. Nothing happens fast in a reef
2. Take things slower than you thought I meant in rule 1.


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180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx

Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels
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Unread 08/03/2019, 06:44 PM   #23
Uncle99
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Yup, share your frustration, learned same way.
Anything going in is suspect, play it safe always.
In addition, well fed fish in a low stress environment have less instances of sickness.


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Unread 08/04/2019, 04:32 PM   #24
monkeysee1
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Yep. +1
...what hkgr posted should be mandatory reading for beginner saltwater aquarists. No fish needs to suffer from ich....
.....and - to keep it out of your tank for good, quarantine is the key....


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Unread 08/09/2019, 02:50 AM   #25
polish_bear_65
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So. Did you save your fish?


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