1 Year in, 2 months with life fish -rbta killing me - Page 2

Toddcee · 07/12/2018, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davocean

It would probably take a couple days to see it's response o shaded light, and at least a week or two to notice change in color.

I would continue this and squirt myisis twice weekly, stay on WC's

This is to help it survive, later think about tank size.

Keep pumps and intakes blocked or covered to keep from harm.

Thank you. I plan on upgrading eventually to a larger tank. Right now the rtba is the size of a nickle.

mcgyvr · 07/12/2018, 08:17 AM

Interesting salinity level image...
https://www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/a.../pia14786.html
salinity range from 30-40 PPT (1.0226-1.0302)
And whats the "average"... 1.0264
Don't take my post here as saying/agreeing that people saying he needs to raise his salinity are correct..
1.024 is not an issue at all for me and I wouldn't do a darn thing about it..

Stability is more important than any specific number in the acceptable range IMO..

Kmack0415 · 07/12/2018, 08:53 AM

If your carpet is doing ok I would be inclined to think it's not the lighting, I missed that you had the carpet too, my personal thought is that it was shipped to the lfs stressed and bleached, they should not have sold it like that... You are now trying to destress and revitalize it so I feel like you should try to keep everything the same in your tank, don't go changing a bunch of stuff or it's only going to get more stressed. Try to feed but don't get down on yourself if it doesn't eat right away, squirting mysis from a distance into it should get it to feed if it's going to and just monitor it.
As for your tank being to small I agree with day above, worry about that later, I had a buddy that had a rbt in a 30 for a long time, evenly traded it in due to size, it will outgrow the tank but that little guy is just fine for the time being imo.

Toddcee · 07/12/2018, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kmack0415

If your carpet is doing ok I would be inclined to think it's not the lighting, I missed that you had the carpet too, my personal thought is that it was shipped to the lfs stressed and bleached, they should not have sold it like that... You are now trying to destress and revitalize it so I feel like you should try to keep everything the same in your tank, don't go changing a bunch of stuff or it's only going to get more stressed. Try to feed but don't get down on yourself if it doesn't eat right away, squirting mysis from a distance into it should get it to feed if it's going to and just monitor it.
As for your tank being to small I agree with day above, worry about that later, I had a buddy that had a rbt in a 30 for a long time, evenly traded it in due to size, it will outgrow the tank but that little guy is just fine for the time being imo.

Thanks Kmack. I called the lfs and explained the entire situation, including much of the advise all of you fine folks have provided. They were at a loss and couldn't recommend what to do. They charged me $40 for it ($10 off because it was small) and didn't offer any assistance at all. Very disappointed.

Will try squirting mysis this weekend and just let the little guy do its thing. I heard once an anemone dies, it is very difficult to clean up. This is my biggest fear.

Kmack0415 · 07/12/2018, 09:38 AM

Just be watchful of it, if they go from my understanding the biggest thing is letting them sit, hoping for them to make a recovery, causes the issue, if it's mouth starts to gape and it looks like it's going down hill get it out, better to lose 40$ than lose everything in your tank.
My lfs had a green haddoni carpet I was going to buy, was being held for me but the owner who is become good friends with had me leave it up there to check it out. Glad I did because over the course of about two weeks it went down hill, going from gaping to looking good back to gaping and then lost its footing on the rock and it was over. They had it in a small tank, the rest of the life in there was feeling it you could tell the gbt that was in the tank started gapibg, they did a wc and the next day the gbt was looking good. So moral of the story, just keep an eye on it and do what you can to bring it back, if it survives pat yourself on the back for saving it!

JustAClownFish · 07/12/2018, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcgyvr

Interesting salinity level image...
https://www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/a.../pia14786.html
salinity range from 30-40 PPT (1.0226-1.0302)
And whats the "average"... 1.0264
Don't take my post here as saying/agreeing that people saying he needs to raise his salinity are correct..
1.024 is not an issue at all for me and I wouldn't do a darn thing about it..

Stability is more important than any specific number in the acceptable range IMO..

Exactly. I was about to post something yesterday that would have ****ed a couple people off. I'm so sick and tired of this internet wisdom number chasing thing. If you look at the salinities of natural reefs, they range from 32 to 40 PPT. So why the heck do I have to have my tank at 1.026 for the best overall coloration, health or whatever? The question I asked myself as a beginner was: What happens to the cells within the coral if the salinity is not spot on 1.026. Did you know what I found? Nothing. They operate in a specific range and as long as you are in that range you are FINE.

I know a bubble tip reefer (20+ RBTA in her tank) and she keeps her tank at 1.023. Internet wisdom has it that the RBTA's should have been dead a long time ago because it's waaaay too low. She should keep her tank at 1.026 for best health right!?!? Blahblahblah. Blah blubb blah. Reefcentral, the forum for 'I want my post counts to go up so I regurgitate internet wisdom" experts. I'm out.

davocean · 07/12/2018, 11:20 AM

I agree stability is more important than the actual number when it comes to salinity, we are just giving a range to shoot for and help the process of elimination.

As for your LFS, most don't know a a whole lot about anemone's, and BTA's being most popular and forgiving probably base most info or advice pertaining to them and even there lies a bit of confusion and misunderstandings, much like the assumption that continuous splitting/reproduction is a sign of success.

Most that propigate BTA's actually produce more by stressing them, BTA's clone off to seek better conditions in which to survive.

davocean · 07/12/2018, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JustAClownFish

I know a bubble tip reefer (20+ RBTA in her tank) and she keeps her tank at 1.023. Internet wisdom has it that the RBTA's should have been dead a long time ago because it's waaaay too low. She should keep her tank at 1.026 for best health right!?!? Blahblahblah. Blah blubb blah. Reefcentral, the forum for 'I want my post counts to go up so I regurgitate internet wisdom" experts. I'm out.

It cracks me up when someone comes on, and says I did not bother to read other people's comments, but I'm going to throw my comment on here as the one you should believe.

It also cracks me up when someone pokes at someone assuming their post count was just racked up.
I see tons of posts that would allow me to magnify that if that is what I wanted, but if you took the time to read more than write as I do, you'd probably see I normally respond to areas I have stronger value.
If I was trying to rack posts I could probably add a dozen right this minute w/ "nice tank" or, yep, that's a pineapple sponge...

My source of info on anemone's comes from 33 years of keeping them and observing them, not just a guy down the street that propigates BTA's which are normally stupid easy to keep, and actually having failures in keeping proper conditions makes them multiply.

Giving that as an example of success to me is parroting of internet misinformation at it's finest

Toddcee · 07/12/2018, 02:22 PM

I’m guessing it’s the light?

Anemone · 07/12/2018, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davocean

It cracks me up when someone comes on, and says I did not bother to read other people's comments, but I'm going to throw my comment on here as the one you should believe.

Yep, and then says do not feed the anemone because you will kill it, and recommends not feeding an obviously bleached anemone because it is still acclimating (after two months in the tank).

But they know what they know because they "know someone" who has had 30+ clones in their tank (I had several hundred clones in the 18 years I was keeping RBTAs).

But, then again, I was probably just padding my post count on RC to look like an internet expert.

Kevin

Kmack0415 · 07/12/2018, 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toddcee

I’m guessing it’s the light?

Looks to be promising, definitely coming out a bit, hopefully making headway! With any luck it will start to eat and color back up.

Toddcee · 07/12/2018, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kmack0415

Looks to be promising, definitely coming out a bit, hopefully making headway! With any luck it will start to eat and color back up.

Except my carpet is just about to fall out of its rock. Turned lights back up and the mini is recovering but rbta is shriveling back up. Maybe a rock over top of it?

davocean · 07/12/2018, 05:32 PM

I would screen off the area only above the BTA if you can, something safe from light heat, sometimes people do this w/ eggcrate.
It's pretty common a bleached nem will not like harsh light, often they will move to a cave and probably just perish.

Anyway, it's good to hear it looked better w/ lower light, but try not to disrupt rest of tank in giving that

davocean · 07/12/2018, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anemone

Yep, and then says do not feed the anemone because you will kill it, and recommends not feeding an obviously bleached anemone because it is still acclimating (after two months in the tank).

But they know what they know because they "know someone" who has had 30+ clones in their tank (I had several hundred clones in the 18 years I was keeping RBTAs).

But, then again, I was probably just padding my post count on RC to look like an internet expert.

Kevin

Lol, not only did I like your comment, but now I'm at 14,487, chicks dig high post counts!

dtapke · 07/12/2018, 08:19 PM

A little curious about this salinity talk (sorry to distract too much from the nem post.)

It would seem from that image most “reef” areas are 35-36ppt salinity. Wouldn’t it make sense to try and mimic the area your corals came from more than shoot for a specific number? If you’re getting CA maricultured/wild coral, yeah shoot a bit lower. But everywhere else with reef life seemed higher. And if it’s aquacultured perhaps finding out what sg they kept their system at?

I keep mine at 35ppt because that’s “good” and it’s also been what the salinity of the water I’ve had several pieces shipped to me in.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Toddcee · 07/14/2018, 01:28 PM

Looks like I’m going in the right direction. Had my first successful feed today with mysis

Anemone · 07/14/2018, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toddcee

Looks like I’m going in the right direction. Had my first successful feed today with mysis

Kevin

930Reef · 07/15/2018, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toddcee

Looks like I’m going in the right direction. Had my first successful feed today with mysis

Yeahh! Keep us updated. I'm following because I lost a long tentacle in a similar situation, and watching yours come back is awesome!

Kmack0415 · 07/15/2018, 09:58 PM

Well done! Keep up the good work!

07/12/2018, 08:17 AM	#27
mcgyvr Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: North Carolina Posts: 20,050	Interesting salinity level image... https://www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/a.../pia14786.html salinity range from 30-40 PPT (1.0226-1.0302) And whats the "average"... 1.0264 Don't take my post here as saying/agreeing that people saying he needs to raise his salinity are correct.. 1.024 is not an issue at all for me and I wouldn't do a darn thing about it.. Stability is more important than any specific number in the acceptable range IMO.. __________________ Who me?

07/12/2018, 11:20 AM	#32
davocean Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 14,655	I agree stability is more important than the actual number when it comes to salinity, we are just giving a range to shoot for and help the process of elimination. As for your LFS, most don't know a a whole lot about anemone's, and BTA's being most popular and forgiving probably base most info or advice pertaining to them and even there lies a bit of confusion and misunderstandings, much like the assumption that continuous splitting/reproduction is a sign of success. Most that propigate BTA's actually produce more by stressing them, BTA's clone off to seek better conditions in which to survive. __________________ There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD

07/12/2018, 05:32 PM	#38
davocean Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 14,655	I would screen off the area only above the BTA if you can, something safe from light heat, sometimes people do this w/ eggcrate. It's pretty common a bleached nem will not like harsh light, often they will move to a cave and probably just perish. Anyway, it's good to hear it looked better w/ lower light, but try not to disrupt rest of tank in giving that __________________ There's a fine line between owning your tank and your tank owning you! Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD

07/12/2018, 08:53 AM	#28
Kmack0415 Registered Member Join Date: May 2018 Location: Imperial, mo Posts: 95	If your carpet is doing ok I would be inclined to think it's not the lighting, I missed that you had the carpet too, my personal thought is that it was shipped to the lfs stressed and bleached, they should not have sold it like that... You are now trying to destress and revitalize it so I feel like you should try to keep everything the same in your tank, don't go changing a bunch of stuff or it's only going to get more stressed. Try to feed but don't get down on yourself if it doesn't eat right away, squirting mysis from a distance into it should get it to feed if it's going to and just monitor it. As for your tank being to small I agree with day above, worry about that later, I had a buddy that had a rbt in a 30 for a long time, evenly traded it in due to size, it will outgrow the tank but that little guy is just fine for the time being imo.

07/12/2018, 09:38 AM	#30
Kmack0415 Registered Member Join Date: May 2018 Location: Imperial, mo Posts: 95	Just be watchful of it, if they go from my understanding the biggest thing is letting them sit, hoping for them to make a recovery, causes the issue, if it's mouth starts to gape and it looks like it's going down hill get it out, better to lose 40$ than lose everything in your tank. My lfs had a green haddoni carpet I was going to buy, was being held for me but the owner who is become good friends with had me leave it up there to check it out. Glad I did because over the course of about two weeks it went down hill, going from gaping to looking good back to gaping and then lost its footing on the rock and it was over. They had it in a small tank, the rest of the life in there was feeling it you could tell the gbt that was in the tank started gapibg, they did a wc and the next day the gbt was looking good. So moral of the story, just keep an eye on it and do what you can to bring it back, if it survives pat yourself on the back for saving it!

07/12/2018, 08:19 PM	#40
dtapke Registered Member Join Date: May 2018 Posts: 105	A little curious about this salinity talk (sorry to distract too much from the nem post.) It would seem from that image most “reef” areas are 35-36ppt salinity. Wouldn’t it make sense to try and mimic the area your corals came from more than shoot for a specific number? If you’re getting CA maricultured/wild coral, yeah shoot a bit lower. But everywhere else with reef life seemed higher. And if it’s aquacultured perhaps finding out what sg they kept their system at? I keep mine at 35ppt because that’s “good” and it’s also been what the salinity of the water I’ve had several pieces shipped to me in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

07/15/2018, 09:58 PM	#44
Kmack0415 Registered Member Join Date: May 2018 Location: Imperial, mo Posts: 95	Well done! Keep up the good work!