Reef Central Online Community

Go Back   Reef Central Online Community > General Interest Forums > Do It Yourself
Blogs FAQ Calendar

Notices

User Tag List

Reply
Thread Tools
Unread 10/23/2014, 01:06 PM   #1
jess1111
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 12
Cool Heaters

What specifics do people look for when making a purchase for an Aquarium Heater?! As colder days are quickly approaching!


jess1111 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10/23/2014, 01:20 PM   #2
power boat jim
Registered Member
 
power boat jim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin, The big peninsula
Posts: 2,100
Number of watts.


power boat jim is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10/23/2014, 01:41 PM   #3
Wryknow
Registered Member
 
Wryknow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 1,203
Ebo-jager / # of watts / price


__________________
You cannot use reason to change the opinion of a person that did not use reason to form their opinion in the first place.

Current Tank Info: 65 G RR, w/ 50 G sump/refugium, DIY LED lighting, AquaMaxx CO-1 skimmer, Tunze 1073.050 return
Wryknow is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10/23/2014, 01:51 PM   #4
schatzi
Professional amateur
 
schatzi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: JC, MO
Posts: 513
Usually 2-3 watts per gallon. Jager seems to get the most love on here, I have a few and they work just great.


__________________
125g Mixed Reef, 46g predator tank, 25g fuge, 39g frag/fuge, 70g sump, 29g clown tank.
schatzi is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10/23/2014, 02:28 PM   #5
sharkboy99999
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 111
5-10 watts for other heaters ( other than jäger) and just look on the box


sharkboy99999 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10/23/2014, 05:57 PM   #6
phillrodrigo
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: quaker hill ct
Posts: 2,433
I have 2 of them in my 75. A 200 and a 250. Time to get ready for a freezing winter. My fish will be warm but I'll be freezing. My pellet stove broke was planning on fixing it but my cars tranny just went. So I just plan to use the 2 heaters to keep them at 78. I'm in the basement so no heat other than the pellet stove.


phillrodrigo is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10/23/2014, 07:30 PM   #7
uncleof6
Registered Member
 
uncleof6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: AWOL
Posts: 12,013
Save energy and drop them down to 75 - 76.


__________________
"Things should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." (oft attributed to Einstein; most likely paraphrasing by Roger Sessions; compactly articulates the principle of Occam's Razor)

Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef
uncleof6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10/23/2014, 11:59 PM   #8
itzonlithai
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 198
I went with a Eheim Jager for my tank. They seem to have a good following here on RC.


itzonlithai is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10/24/2014, 08:07 AM   #9
woodnaquanut
Registered Member
 
woodnaquanut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 2,727
As others have said, EJs are great heaters.

Other considerations...

Will it fit in the space you have? EJs are unusually long for the wattage.

Best to have two under wattage heaters so if one sticks on (Not unheard of), it won't fry, steam or boil the tank. This also helps fit the heaters in the space you have since lower wattage heaters are usually shorter.

It's also a great idea to have an independent thermostat. Heaters don't have the most robust thermostats built in. I have an Apex so that's my thermostat. If you don't have a controller, consider a Ranco thermostat.


__________________
John
DT 120G. mixed reef w/ lots of automation + assorted FW and SW tanks.
woodnaquanut is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10/24/2014, 09:44 AM   #10
CapnReefer
Moved On
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Northern Hemisphere, Earth
Posts: 13
The Fluval E series heaters contains 2 temp sensors. The only other method of this I've seen is an external controller. Have a couple of the Fluval heaters myself, longest running one is 6 years old, haven't had one problem.


CapnReefer is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10/25/2014, 05:13 PM   #11
Lavoisier
Premium Member
 
Lavoisier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Overland Park, KS
Posts: 1,030
I would recommend using a Ranco controller with any heater you purchase. A little more expense ($50) but you will significantly decrease the risk of a heater malfunction causing a catastrophic tank failure...also what Uncle said!


__________________
"...for it is not necessary that these hypotheses should be true, or even probably; but it is enough if they provide a calculus which fits the observations..."--Introduction (attributed to Andrew Osiander) to On the Revolutions of the Heavenly Sphere by Nicolaus Copernicus.

Current Tank Info: 600g DT, 140g sump, 200g Cryptic, 90g Refugium, 3-400w MH, 2 Reeflo Barracudas, and 3 MP60s
Lavoisier is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10/26/2014, 12:06 PM   #12
BeanAnimal
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 20,772
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkboy99999 View Post
5-10 watts for other heaters ( other than jäger) and just look on the box

That is like saying 4 inches if you use a ruler and 8 inches if you use a measuring tape...

a WATT is a fixed unit of energy, no more, no less.

100W pumped into an "Eheim Jager" heater imparts EXACTLY the amount of energy (HEAT) into an aquarium as a 100W "Bobs Your Uncle" brand heater...


BeanAnimal is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10/27/2014, 05:41 PM   #13
phillrodrigo
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: quaker hill ct
Posts: 2,433
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeanAnimal View Post
That is like saying 4 inches if you use a ruler and 8 inches if you use a measuring tape...

a WATT is a fixed unit of energy, no more, no less.

100W pumped into an "Eheim Jager" heater imparts EXACTLY the amount of energy (HEAT) into an aquarium as a 100W "Bobs Your Uncle" brand heater...
Im not sure if this is entirely true. My fluval 300 watt heater wouldn't keep up so I bought a Jagger 200 and it kept up alot better. I would think the internal components used would also effect efficiency. Maybe I'm wrong but using a old hobby of mine car audio 500 watts being put to my jl audio wouldn't be the same as 500 watts to a Sony sub woofer. I could be absolutely wrong on the heaters but I would think they aren't exactly the same


phillrodrigo is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10/27/2014, 06:49 PM   #14
Khemul
Registered Member
 
Khemul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 988
Quote:
Originally Posted by phillrodrigo View Post
Im not sure if this is entirely true.
Assuming the heater runs at the advertised wattage, it is entirely true.

And if we assume it isn't running at the advertised wattage, well then we probably don't want to use that product since there is something seriously wrong there.


Khemul is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10/27/2014, 06:53 PM   #15
uncleof6
Registered Member
 
uncleof6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: AWOL
Posts: 12,013
Laws of physics: A watt is a watt, is a watt is a watt. A watt is the product of voltage x current.

Since an audio signal is a sinusoidal wave (AC) the calculation is a triangle, there is a difference between apparent power (volt/amps) and true power. Inductors are used, so input power will be higher than what actually gets to the speakers. (power factor, the angle between true power and apparent power.) Apparent power is the hypotenues of the triangle. True power is the base. However, the device(s) will dissapate *exactly* what goes into the device(s.) A watt is a watt, watts ultimately are converted to heat. What does not make it to the speakers is dissipated as heat in the amplifier.

A heater is a resistive load. If 500 watts of power (120 x 4.1666667, resistance is 28.8 ohms) goes in, 500 watts of power will be dissipated, same as the audio stuff. If you have low line voltage, however, (resistance remains constant @ 28.8 ohms) say 115VAC, you won't get 500 watts out of the heater, because 500 watts won't go in. But what dissipates as heat will *equal* what goes in. A watt is a watt.

The reason the fluval could not keep up is because the temperature sensing circuitry is junk, or the heater is not capable of the listed wattage, because the resistance is too high to achieve that wattage @ 120VAC. (E.G. they overrated the heater.) The "watts" going in can be calculated by checking the line voltage, and multiplying it by the current. The current can be determined using an inductive amp meter ("clamp on.") If the heater is rated for 300 watts, and only 200 watts are going in, the heater wil only put 200 watts as heat, into the water. The difference is going to be the resistance of the heating element, or low line voltage.

These heaters have pretty cheap circuitry in them, and it is obvious that none of them are going to be dead on ba*** accurate to begin with, in terms of temp control. However, a UL listed heater is going to have to meet certain standards, so it is relatively safe to say a 100W brand x is going to equal a 100W brand y in terms of heat output, all else being equal. Variations or failure to "keep up" can be blamed on the control circuitry. Getting precision temperature control is rather expensive...

The statement: "100W pumped into an "Eheim Jager" heater imparts EXACTLY the amount of energy (HEAT) into an aquarium as a 100W "Bobs Your Uncle" brand heater..." is absolutely true, so long as 100W is pumped into "Bobs Your Uncle" brand heater.


__________________
"Things should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." (oft attributed to Einstein; most likely paraphrasing by Roger Sessions; compactly articulates the principle of Occam's Razor)

Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef
uncleof6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10/27/2014, 09:17 PM   #16
hllywd
Premier World Traveler
 
hllywd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,293
I just went with two new Aqueon 250W Pro Heaters. I based the decision mostly on three things; 1.) I currently have 2x 250W heaters that normally keep my system within a couple tenths of the set-points as defined by my Apex, 2.) Decent price and fast, inexpensive overnight shipping with Amazon Prime, and 3.) Almost all good product reviews.


__________________
"The moment you doubt whether you can fly, you cease forever to be able to do it..." J.M. Barrie

Current Tank Info: 210 AGA RR, Apex, 3x Kessil A360W & 2x 80W T5s, GEO 618 Ca Rx, BM220 CS2 skimmer, Tunze 6100s, 42" ETSS/AE Tech refugium/sump
hllywd is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:09 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2024 Axivo Inc.
Use of this web site is subject to the terms and conditions described in the user agreement.
Reef CentralTM Reef Central, LLC. Copyright ©1999-2022
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.