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10/23/2014, 01:06 PM | #1 |
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Heaters
What specifics do people look for when making a purchase for an Aquarium Heater?! As colder days are quickly approaching!
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10/23/2014, 01:20 PM | #2 |
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Number of watts.
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10/23/2014, 01:41 PM | #3 |
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Ebo-jager / # of watts / price
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You cannot use reason to change the opinion of a person that did not use reason to form their opinion in the first place. Current Tank Info: 65 G RR, w/ 50 G sump/refugium, DIY LED lighting, AquaMaxx CO-1 skimmer, Tunze 1073.050 return |
10/23/2014, 01:51 PM | #4 |
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Usually 2-3 watts per gallon. Jager seems to get the most love on here, I have a few and they work just great.
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125g Mixed Reef, 46g predator tank, 25g fuge, 39g frag/fuge, 70g sump, 29g clown tank. |
10/23/2014, 02:28 PM | #5 |
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5-10 watts for other heaters ( other than jäger) and just look on the box
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10/23/2014, 05:57 PM | #6 |
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I have 2 of them in my 75. A 200 and a 250. Time to get ready for a freezing winter. My fish will be warm but I'll be freezing. My pellet stove broke was planning on fixing it but my cars tranny just went. So I just plan to use the 2 heaters to keep them at 78. I'm in the basement so no heat other than the pellet stove.
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10/23/2014, 07:30 PM | #7 |
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Save energy and drop them down to 75 - 76.
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"Things should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." (oft attributed to Einstein; most likely paraphrasing by Roger Sessions; compactly articulates the principle of Occam's Razor) Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef |
10/23/2014, 11:59 PM | #8 |
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I went with a Eheim Jager for my tank. They seem to have a good following here on RC.
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10/24/2014, 08:07 AM | #9 |
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As others have said, EJs are great heaters.
Other considerations... Will it fit in the space you have? EJs are unusually long for the wattage. Best to have two under wattage heaters so if one sticks on (Not unheard of), it won't fry, steam or boil the tank. This also helps fit the heaters in the space you have since lower wattage heaters are usually shorter. It's also a great idea to have an independent thermostat. Heaters don't have the most robust thermostats built in. I have an Apex so that's my thermostat. If you don't have a controller, consider a Ranco thermostat.
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John DT 120G. mixed reef w/ lots of automation + assorted FW and SW tanks. |
10/24/2014, 09:44 AM | #10 |
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The Fluval E series heaters contains 2 temp sensors. The only other method of this I've seen is an external controller. Have a couple of the Fluval heaters myself, longest running one is 6 years old, haven't had one problem.
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10/25/2014, 05:13 PM | #11 |
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I would recommend using a Ranco controller with any heater you purchase. A little more expense ($50) but you will significantly decrease the risk of a heater malfunction causing a catastrophic tank failure...also what Uncle said!
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"...for it is not necessary that these hypotheses should be true, or even probably; but it is enough if they provide a calculus which fits the observations..."--Introduction (attributed to Andrew Osiander) to On the Revolutions of the Heavenly Sphere by Nicolaus Copernicus. Current Tank Info: 600g DT, 140g sump, 200g Cryptic, 90g Refugium, 3-400w MH, 2 Reeflo Barracudas, and 3 MP60s |
10/26/2014, 12:06 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
That is like saying 4 inches if you use a ruler and 8 inches if you use a measuring tape... a WATT is a fixed unit of energy, no more, no less. 100W pumped into an "Eheim Jager" heater imparts EXACTLY the amount of energy (HEAT) into an aquarium as a 100W "Bobs Your Uncle" brand heater... |
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10/27/2014, 05:41 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
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10/27/2014, 06:49 PM | #14 |
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Assuming the heater runs at the advertised wattage, it is entirely true.
And if we assume it isn't running at the advertised wattage, well then we probably don't want to use that product since there is something seriously wrong there. |
10/27/2014, 06:53 PM | #15 |
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Laws of physics: A watt is a watt, is a watt is a watt. A watt is the product of voltage x current.
Since an audio signal is a sinusoidal wave (AC) the calculation is a triangle, there is a difference between apparent power (volt/amps) and true power. Inductors are used, so input power will be higher than what actually gets to the speakers. (power factor, the angle between true power and apparent power.) Apparent power is the hypotenues of the triangle. True power is the base. However, the device(s) will dissapate *exactly* what goes into the device(s.) A watt is a watt, watts ultimately are converted to heat. What does not make it to the speakers is dissipated as heat in the amplifier. A heater is a resistive load. If 500 watts of power (120 x 4.1666667, resistance is 28.8 ohms) goes in, 500 watts of power will be dissipated, same as the audio stuff. If you have low line voltage, however, (resistance remains constant @ 28.8 ohms) say 115VAC, you won't get 500 watts out of the heater, because 500 watts won't go in. But what dissipates as heat will *equal* what goes in. A watt is a watt. The reason the fluval could not keep up is because the temperature sensing circuitry is junk, or the heater is not capable of the listed wattage, because the resistance is too high to achieve that wattage @ 120VAC. (E.G. they overrated the heater.) The "watts" going in can be calculated by checking the line voltage, and multiplying it by the current. The current can be determined using an inductive amp meter ("clamp on.") If the heater is rated for 300 watts, and only 200 watts are going in, the heater wil only put 200 watts as heat, into the water. The difference is going to be the resistance of the heating element, or low line voltage. These heaters have pretty cheap circuitry in them, and it is obvious that none of them are going to be dead on ba*** accurate to begin with, in terms of temp control. However, a UL listed heater is going to have to meet certain standards, so it is relatively safe to say a 100W brand x is going to equal a 100W brand y in terms of heat output, all else being equal. Variations or failure to "keep up" can be blamed on the control circuitry. Getting precision temperature control is rather expensive... The statement: "100W pumped into an "Eheim Jager" heater imparts EXACTLY the amount of energy (HEAT) into an aquarium as a 100W "Bobs Your Uncle" brand heater..." is absolutely true, so long as 100W is pumped into "Bobs Your Uncle" brand heater.
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"Things should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." (oft attributed to Einstein; most likely paraphrasing by Roger Sessions; compactly articulates the principle of Occam's Razor) Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef |
10/27/2014, 09:17 PM | #16 |
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I just went with two new Aqueon 250W Pro Heaters. I based the decision mostly on three things; 1.) I currently have 2x 250W heaters that normally keep my system within a couple tenths of the set-points as defined by my Apex, 2.) Decent price and fast, inexpensive overnight shipping with Amazon Prime, and 3.) Almost all good product reviews.
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"The moment you doubt whether you can fly, you cease forever to be able to do it..." J.M. Barrie Current Tank Info: 210 AGA RR, Apex, 3x Kessil A360W & 2x 80W T5s, GEO 618 Ca Rx, BM220 CS2 skimmer, Tunze 6100s, 42" ETSS/AE Tech refugium/sump |
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