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View Poll Results: Indicate those species you keep in your tank | |||
Macropharyngodon bipartitus | 67 | 28.39% | |
Macropharyngodon choati | 12 | 5.08% | |
Macropharyngodon geoffroy | 24 | 10.17% | |
Macropharyngodon meleagris | 78 | 33.05% | |
Macropharyngodon negrosensis | 29 | 12.29% | |
Other | 26 | 11.02% | |
Voters: 236. You may not vote on this poll |
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06/23/2018, 02:50 AM | #3751 | |
Moved on
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Minh My homepage is my album here at Reef Central Current Tank Info: Reboot 320 anemones reef. Angels: Yellow Chest Regal(2), Flame (2). Copperband But. Tangs: Yellow, Purple. Wrasse: about 20 wrasses various species. Anemones: Giantea X4 (Breen, Blue, Purple and Multicolors), Haddoni X1 Red, Magnifica X1 Purpletip |
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06/24/2018, 04:45 PM | #3752 |
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So turns out I definitely have a Male Potters. Has that red marking on its dorsal.
The past 24 hrs it has started eating a ton of Hikari Mysis. I've fed it 6-7 small meals today. My only hope is that it finally finds the sand. Past 2 nights it's been sleeping under the chunk of chaeto. Also, did your new ones chase their reflection relentlessly? In the mornings mine has been calm, but from 3pm-8pm it paces back and forth non stop.
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75g SPS dominant (Ca= 400ppm, Mg = 1350ppm, Kh= 8.5dkh) 2xJebao wp25/Kessil Ap700/Kalk via Tunze ATO/GFO (6 tbsps every 2 wks); Carbon (6 tbsps per month) |
06/25/2018, 10:48 AM | #3753 |
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Wrasseperts,
Good news is it found the sand last night after trying to hide under the cheato unsuccessfully. Bad news is it keeps relentless chasing its reflection on the glass. My QT is a 20L only. I'm wondering if I should hurry and do my Prazi dose so I can move it to the DT? My lighting is very subdued already.
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75g SPS dominant (Ca= 400ppm, Mg = 1350ppm, Kh= 8.5dkh) 2xJebao wp25/Kessil Ap700/Kalk via Tunze ATO/GFO (6 tbsps every 2 wks); Carbon (6 tbsps per month) |
06/25/2018, 01:24 PM | #3754 | |
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06/25/2018, 01:25 PM | #3755 |
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Right now one side is covered with it. I'll try 3.
But should I be concerned that the pacing will lead to bigger stress issues? He is eating mysis. But then goes back to zooming.
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75g SPS dominant (Ca= 400ppm, Mg = 1350ppm, Kh= 8.5dkh) 2xJebao wp25/Kessil Ap700/Kalk via Tunze ATO/GFO (6 tbsps every 2 wks); Carbon (6 tbsps per month) |
06/25/2018, 01:34 PM | #3756 | |
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Red Sea Reefer 750 XXL...I love wrasses....have leopards....several Coris....China Wrasse, Dejardini and purple tang... Current Tank Info: Red Sea Reefer 750 XXL |
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06/25/2018, 02:07 PM | #3757 | |
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06/26/2018, 07:09 AM | #3758 |
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Poor thing. I hope it pulls thru!
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06/26/2018, 07:20 AM | #3759 |
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Day 3 it found sand. Day 4 it was back sleeping between rocks.
Its eating well with no external, visible issues for now. So far this morning its cruising around like it should, hopefully by afternoon it's not pacing again.
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75g SPS dominant (Ca= 400ppm, Mg = 1350ppm, Kh= 8.5dkh) 2xJebao wp25/Kessil Ap700/Kalk via Tunze ATO/GFO (6 tbsps every 2 wks); Carbon (6 tbsps per month) |
06/28/2018, 06:24 AM | #3760 |
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Quick update. Still eating non stop but I'm concerned.. not just because it's just pacing rapidly for 2-3 hours a day.
But at night it chooses not to sleep in a sand Tupperware and constantly looks like its rubbing its beak into the floor. This morning, the beak is starting to look a little rough. So I think I'll be transferring this 4 inch Male into my DT very soon. So I dosed Prazi this morning and after 72 hrs its leaving QT. I may pull it earlier and risk a partial prazi treatment since Indont know how many more nights it can keep rubbing its beak up. Experts? Pulling early the best decision?
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75g SPS dominant (Ca= 400ppm, Mg = 1350ppm, Kh= 8.5dkh) 2xJebao wp25/Kessil Ap700/Kalk via Tunze ATO/GFO (6 tbsps every 2 wks); Carbon (6 tbsps per month) |
08/23/2018, 05:04 PM | #3761 |
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Location: Denver
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I'd like to get an opinion on building a harem with blue star/splendid/african leopard wrasses. I ordered 3 sm/med females from Live Aquaria. Slight difference in size -- just enough that I can tell them apart. One stayed out immediately, the second came out the third day. On day 6, the 3rd (and smallest) one popped out of the sand. The first two hang together and have been pals for the few days they have been together. As soon as the small/3rd one appeared the medium sized one chased/harassed the new small one - basically acting like males. The largest one ignored the other two during the skirmish. All clearly have female markings and I thought they were all born female. The small one appears to be acting submissive. After 20 min, the small one dove back into the sand. Do I have a timing issue that will work itself out? Or do I have latent males that won't resolve itself until one is gone? I have 180g tank.
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08/31/2018, 10:24 AM | #3762 |
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Hey guys & gals,
So I'm about at that point I'm going to be ordering some leopard wrasses. I'm thinking 3 at this point, a potters, melagris, and negrosensis. Is my understanding correct that you should only have 1 male at most, rest should be female? Will 3 be fine in a 20 gal QT with a container of sand placed in side? Do I need a direct light for them due to their day/night clocks? My DT is nearby and will give off light during the day, and some at night with the sump light on. I had considered TTM, as I've done with my other fish, but this seems a major hassle. I plan to QT them though for a month to observe for ich, parasites, disease, etc. Probably treat with prazi, but no copper/ich treatment unless I see it. I've gotten my first 4 fish (2 clowns, royral gramma, and a foxface lo) from my LFS. I've had no issues from there so far, and he does order leopard wrasses from time to time, some which he puts in tanks with sand, and some he doesn't at times. I could probably get some ordered, allowing them to be there for a week or two to ensure they are healthy and eating. Howver, have y'all had good success with LiveAquaria or another online FS that's recommended instead of a LFS? |
10/06/2018, 08:16 AM | #3763 |
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So I ordered 3 wrasses. 1 blue star, 1 black, 1 "regular"? from LA.
The regular was DOA. Blue star is medium sized, eating frozen mysis (hakari), but looks less active this morning... And unfortunately I woke up to the black being dead this morning, after she was initially swimming around a good bit over the last 2 days. (Arrived Thursday. Dead Saturday morning Any tips I'm missing? How often should I feed them in QT? I have a sand bed in the QT, in a tupperware container, but neither went for the sand. They've mostly just been swimming around or hanging out. |
10/06/2018, 09:01 AM | #3764 |
Moved on
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Location: Coastal Texas
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I find that the best way to adapt Leopards to our system is to put them in a straight stable reef. I set up a 40 gal breeder system to acclimate my more sensitive wrasses. Even with this my success if far from 100%. I also find that midsize leopards are much more likely to do well. Small, less than 2 inches and very large wrasses tend to not do well.
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Minh My homepage is my album here at Reef Central Current Tank Info: Reboot 320 anemones reef. Angels: Yellow Chest Regal(2), Flame (2). Copperband But. Tangs: Yellow, Purple. Wrasse: about 20 wrasses various species. Anemones: Giantea X4 (Breen, Blue, Purple and Multicolors), Haddoni X1 Red, Magnifica X1 Purpletip |
10/06/2018, 09:06 AM | #3765 | |
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I’d try feeding them a food with a wormer added. You can use seachem focus to bind the wormer. I usually end up just injecting a little wormer with a syringe into a few PE mysis and I do that every 3 days for 4 treatments. Seems to work well but I really have no way of being certain it makes a difference. I use panacur that I have left over from my seahorses. I definitely agree with the above post as well. I use an established 30g for my qt. It’s a gross looking tank but is loaded with pods. If it’s a wrasse that I really want to do well like a Choati I buy amphipods and add them to the tank as well. I get them from a place called Royal Reefs. They send a couple thousand and it’s around $50 shipped. Last edited by pfan151; 10/06/2018 at 09:23 AM. |
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10/06/2018, 09:39 AM | #3766 |
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The remaining blue star is eating frozen mysis.
When you say you are feeding 5 times a day, is that a full cube each time? I do have a sump on my DT. Has some rubble in it, I could move to the QT, and I could shake some cheato out for a few pods. Think thats a good idea? Is it possible to add more to a DT later, or is it best to do several at once (like tangs)? Trying to decide if I should reorder. May go thru lfs though this time, as he'll be able to make sure it's eating before I take it home. Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
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SC Aquariums - 150 Gallon 5'x2'x2'; Trigger Elite 36 Sump; Mars Aqua Lights 150 lbs reefcleaner rock, SCA 302 Skimmer Current Stock: Foxface lo, 2 clowns, royal gramma, 2 spot bristletooth tang, fir |
10/06/2018, 09:41 AM | #3767 |
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Just a pic
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SC Aquariums - 150 Gallon 5'x2'x2'; Trigger Elite 36 Sump; Mars Aqua Lights 150 lbs reefcleaner rock, SCA 302 Skimmer Current Stock: Foxface lo, 2 clowns, royal gramma, 2 spot bristletooth tang, fir |
10/06/2018, 01:07 PM | #3768 | |
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You could probably just add a clump of cheato to the qt. I haven’t had most leopards bother other species of leopards too much aside from maybe a little the first day. Of the ones I have kept ornates have been the most aggressive. |
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10/06/2018, 07:37 PM | #3769 |
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I have six Leopard Wrasses.....I never QT any leopards. I only buy from one of my trusted LFS, luckily I have two really good ones. Leopards are there for a minimum of a week and eatting frozen Mysis when I get them. Still not 100% but I have to say 80-90% success rate doing it this way. Just my 2 cents!
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Red Sea Reefer 750 XXL...I love wrasses....have leopards....several Coris....China Wrasse, Dejardini and purple tang... Current Tank Info: Red Sea Reefer 750 XXL |
10/09/2018, 07:07 AM | #3770 |
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Well update. As of this morning the 3rd wrasse has past. Not sure why. SHe was eating all weekend, seemed to be swimming well but on Monday became a lot more lethargic, and by evening was laying on her side breathing, but barely. Woke to her deceased this morning.
I think I'll be going to my lfs this week for the next round. I've gotten my previous fish from there with good success, and I'll make sure they are eating well before bringing them home. Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
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SC Aquariums - 150 Gallon 5'x2'x2'; Trigger Elite 36 Sump; Mars Aqua Lights 150 lbs reefcleaner rock, SCA 302 Skimmer Current Stock: Foxface lo, 2 clowns, royal gramma, 2 spot bristletooth tang, fir |
10/09/2018, 08:06 AM | #3771 | |
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10/09/2018, 11:07 AM | #3772 | |
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Yeah, should I do a complete water change before QT ing new fish? I don't see ich or a sign of other external disease.
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SC Aquariums - 150 Gallon 5'x2'x2'; Trigger Elite 36 Sump; Mars Aqua Lights 150 lbs reefcleaner rock, SCA 302 Skimmer Current Stock: Foxface lo, 2 clowns, royal gramma, 2 spot bristletooth tang, fir |
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10/09/2018, 11:34 AM | #3773 | |
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10/09/2018, 05:55 PM | #3774 | |
Grizzled & Cynical
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Simon Got back into the hobby ..... planned to keep it simple ..... yeah, right ..... clearly I need a new plan! Pet peeve: anemones host clowns; clowns do not host anemones! Current Tank Info: 450 Reef; 120 refugium; 60 Frag Tank, 30 Introduction tank; multiple QTs |
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10/09/2018, 06:37 PM | #3775 | |
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SC Aquariums - 150 Gallon 5'x2'x2'; Trigger Elite 36 Sump; Mars Aqua Lights 150 lbs reefcleaner rock, SCA 302 Skimmer Current Stock: Foxface lo, 2 clowns, royal gramma, 2 spot bristletooth tang, fir |
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