Tank of the Month - May 2005 - Page 5

orchidsnfish · 06/04/2007, 11:11 PM

I just wanted to bump this thread and see if we could beg for some updated pics of this tank. It's one of my all time favorite TOTM's. So how about it Anemone? Any new pics or updates?

Thanks
Angela

andygb54303 · 02/03/2008, 09:44 AM

very impressive. make me want to do that!

gr8mikey · 12/11/2009, 04:25 PM

Thanks Kevin, I have been looking for someone with an old SeaClear ll, 65 gallon, like I bought from Craigslist three months ago. I see that you glued acrylic at the bottom of the areas 4&5 (closing the opening between final bio-ball area and pump area); I wondered how you kept the sand from being sucked out under that area. We are thinking along the same track, but I have only been at it for three months so far. I have a few questions:
1.) If I turn area 3&4 into a refugium by putting sand in area 3 and coarse gravel or small live rock rubble in area 4, then do you think that I could avoid gluing acrylic over the opening between 4&5, perhaps preventing air from being sucked into the pump area when the water level dropped?
2.) There is a small area (area 2), about 20 inches deep, two inches wide and 12 inches long. What is the most logical use for that small space?
3.) I am currently using two small fans under the hood to reduce the temp. when I run my four 40 watt each florescents and the 50+ watt actinic. If I increase the ballast and replace the 48" flourescents with VHO, is there such an increase in temperature that I will require increased cooling methods such as a "chiller"? (expensive) - Gr8Mikey
.|..|..|.............................|
.|..|..|.............................|
.|..|..|..........|.........|.......|
.|1|2.|..3 .....|..4 . ...|..5 ..|
.|..|..|BioBalls|BioBalls|Pump|
........|.............................| Kevin's SeaClear ll diagram.

gr8mikey · 12/11/2009, 06:58 PM

OK, I think I was able to understand why the acrylic piece was glued at the bottom of area 4 (Shown as "E"), which leads into area 5 (Shown as "F"). If not, then the water level is too low for a refugium. I made what I believe is the correct flow diagram of the old 1994-1995, seaclear ll that I have and showing the water levels, makes it clear that the flow has to be altered. I have attached a picture that I developed to show the flow of water and water levels that I believe is correct.

Narzyzz12 · 07/15/2016, 10:11 PM

Hey skipper is your system still running?

Skipper · 07/16/2016, 05:39 PM

No. I tore it down a few months ago.

Skipper · 07/16/2016, 05:40 PM

Oh! I see this is Kevin's tank, not mine. Ooops

07/15/2016, 10:11 PM	#105
Narzyzz12 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Naples Posts: 88	Hey skipper is your system still running? __________________ Follow on IG Narzyzz_12 Current Tank Info: Corallife Biocube 29 and Nuvo 8

07/16/2016, 05:39 PM	#106
Skipper Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Hattiesburg, MS Posts: 18,271	No. I tore it down a few months ago. __________________ Skip Attix Former Editor of Reefkeeping Magazine

07/16/2016, 05:40 PM	#107
Skipper Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Hattiesburg, MS Posts: 18,271	Oh! I see this is Kevin's tank, not mine. Ooops __________________ Skip Attix Former Editor of Reefkeeping Magazine

06/04/2007, 11:11 PM	#101
orchidsnfish Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Paris,TX Posts: 187	I just wanted to bump this thread and see if we could beg for some updated pics of this tank. It's one of my all time favorite TOTM's. So how about it Anemone? Any new pics or updates? Thanks Angela

02/03/2008, 09:44 AM	#102
andygb54303 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Green Bay, WI Posts: 396	very impressive. make me want to do that!

12/11/2009, 04:25 PM	#103
gr8mikey Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Tustin, CA Posts: 3	Thanks Kevin, I have been looking for someone with an old SeaClear ll, 65 gallon, like I bought from Craigslist three months ago. I see that you glued acrylic at the bottom of the areas 4&5 (closing the opening between final bio-ball area and pump area); I wondered how you kept the sand from being sucked out under that area. We are thinking along the same track, but I have only been at it for three months so far. I have a few questions: 1.) If I turn area 3&4 into a refugium by putting sand in area 3 and coarse gravel or small live rock rubble in area 4, then do you think that I could avoid gluing acrylic over the opening between 4&5, perhaps preventing air from being sucked into the pump area when the water level dropped? 2.) There is a small area (area 2), about 20 inches deep, two inches wide and 12 inches long. What is the most logical use for that small space? 3.) I am currently using two small fans under the hood to reduce the temp. when I run my four 40 watt each florescents and the 50+ watt actinic. If I increase the ballast and replace the 48" flourescents with VHO, is there such an increase in temperature that I will require increased cooling methods such as a "chiller"? (expensive) - Gr8Mikey .\|..\|..\|.............................\| .\|..\|..\|.............................\| .\|..\|..\|..........\|.........\|.......\| .\|1\|2.\|..3 .....\|..4 . ...\|..5 ..\| .\|..\|..\|BioBalls\|BioBalls\|Pump\| ........\|.............................\| Kevin's SeaClear ll diagram.

12/11/2009, 06:58 PM	#104
gr8mikey Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Tustin, CA Posts: 3	OK, I think I was able to understand why the acrylic piece was glued at the bottom of area 4 (Shown as "E"), which leads into area 5 (Shown as "F"). If not, then the water level is too low for a refugium. I made what I believe is the correct flow diagram of the old 1994-1995, seaclear ll that I have and showing the water levels, makes it clear that the flow has to be altered. I have attached a picture that I developed to show the flow of water and water levels that I believe is correct.