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Unread 01/17/2019, 09:48 PM   #1
Runfrumu
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Workhorse 5 ballast to 96watt CF

I originally asked in the lighting and filtration forum but this is probably the better forum for it.

I cant find a diagram showing the workhorse 5 ballast to a 96 watt CF and I assume its because CF are older. I see guys who have used that combo but not how to wire it.

Some say use 1 red wire off the ballast, some say to use 3. I'm lost. Fulham has nothing on their website.


Thanks


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Red Sea Max 130d and 125 gallon mixed reef.

Current Tank Info: 125 gallon oceanic tank, Lighthouse Pro XLS, 72" outer orbit fixture, H&S 150-F2000/1 skimmer, H&S 110 Calcium Reactor, Tunze 7096, 2 Tunze 6105's , Tunze Osmolator, Prime 1/4hp drop-in chiller. 5 years running. Red Sea Max, 3 years.
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Unread 01/17/2019, 11:40 PM   #2
theatrus
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Using the T12 Linear HO 96W configuration, leads me to believe they want you to parallel 3 wires:

https://www.fulham.com/WHAPP/12.jpg

Can you even find 96W power compacts anymore?


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Current Tank Info: 90g SPS+mixed reef (10 yrs): LEDBrick LEDs, 40g custom sump, Ca reactor, chiller, Vortech, lots of custom electronics
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Unread 01/17/2019, 11:51 PM   #3
Runfrumu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theatrus View Post
Using the T12 Linear HO 96W configuration, leads me to believe they want you to parallel 3 wires:

https://www.fulham.com/WHAPP/12.jpg

Can you even find 96W power compacts anymore?
Dr Fosters and Smith actually had the blue actinics.

I cant see that pic. Do I need to wire 3 red wires from the ballast to the 2 on the fixture going to the bulb?

Ill probably upgrade next year, Whats the latest and greatest? I had LEDa few years ago on my small tank but wasnt thrilled with of so I switched it back to 150 halide.


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Red Sea Max 130d and 125 gallon mixed reef.

Current Tank Info: 125 gallon oceanic tank, Lighthouse Pro XLS, 72" outer orbit fixture, H&S 150-F2000/1 skimmer, H&S 110 Calcium Reactor, Tunze 7096, 2 Tunze 6105's , Tunze Osmolator, Prime 1/4hp drop-in chiller. 5 years running. Red Sea Max, 3 years.
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Unread 01/17/2019, 11:54 PM   #4
theatrus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Runfrumu View Post
Dr Fosters and Smith actually had the blue actinics.

I cant see that pic. Do I need to wire 3 red wires from the ballast to the 2 on the fixture going to the bulb?

Ill probably upgrade next year, Whats the latest and greatest? I had LEDa few years ago on my small tank but wasnt thrilled with of so I switched it back to 150 halide.
Its wiring diagram "12" on Fullham's site, linked from the WH5 on a T12Linear HO 96W:

https://cdn.fulham.com/WDpdf/wire12.pdf

LED, T5, Halide are all still in the game. No one I know uses PCs vs T5HOs


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Custom electronics purveyor. blueAcro.com

Current Tank Info: 90g SPS+mixed reef (10 yrs): LEDBrick LEDs, 40g custom sump, Ca reactor, chiller, Vortech, lots of custom electronics
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Unread 01/18/2019, 10:21 PM   #5
Runfrumu
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Spent the better part of the afternoon disassembling and changing out the 4 ballasts for the CF's and the fans but I'm now back up and running. Unfortunately 2 of the new bulbs I got were damaged.


Thanks for the help!


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Red Sea Max 130d and 125 gallon mixed reef.

Current Tank Info: 125 gallon oceanic tank, Lighthouse Pro XLS, 72" outer orbit fixture, H&S 150-F2000/1 skimmer, H&S 110 Calcium Reactor, Tunze 7096, 2 Tunze 6105's , Tunze Osmolator, Prime 1/4hp drop-in chiller. 5 years running. Red Sea Max, 3 years.
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