PLUMBING HELP (sorry about the rough sketch)

[fishkeeprian]

Hello,

need help with my plumbing if you will. I have attached a picture with my intentions just want to make sure this will work ok or if there are any issues that I may get regarding noise etc.

I also need to include three gate valves 2 on the two return pipework and one on the main drain. The gate valves will need to be usable under the cabinet as I will not be able to access behind the tank. Also, where should I put my unions etc??

Thanks Ian

plumbing.jpg

[eder10986]

This is very similar to mine which works like a charm. I added a valve in one of the returns to make the flow even between them and it works quite well.


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[Lsufan]

Elders pic should give u a good idea on most of the setup because it is similar. I would try to replace those 2 90’s on your main drain with 2 45’s. Basically put a 45 where the first 90 is & run the pipe on a 45 degree angle until u get where u need to go, then put another 45 to get back square with the sump. Sometimes hieght is a issue & u don’t have a choice but to use 90’s, but if it is possible I would use the 45’s.

I would try to do the same on the returns. Instead of using tees & 90’s, use Y’s & 45’s. I would try to setup the returns to where the only 90 u have is at the bulkheads. It’s not always possible to do it that way, but u get 1/2 the head loss with a 45 over a 90. If u replace 2 or 3 90’s with 2 or 3 45’s it makes a difference in head loss.

The valve on the syphon will be fine under the stand, but if u can I would place the valves on the returns close to the bulkheads. It may not be possible because of your access but they are usually on the ends of the tank so u can reach them most of the time. If u want one on each return then it would have to be after the split, so I don’t think u will be able to get them under the stand without having plumbing all in the way under the stand.

Try & keep the plumbing as straight as possible under the stand so u don’t end up with a plumbing all over the place. It will end up being in your way when u have to do something under there.

[fishkeeprian]

Originally Posted by Lsufan

Elders pic should give u a good idea on most of the setup because it is similar. I would try to replace those 2 90’s on your main drain with 2 45’s. Basically put a 45 where the first 90 is & run the pipe on a 45 degree angle until u get where u need to go, then put another 45 to get back square with the sump. Sometimes hieght is a issue & u don’t have a choice but to use 90’s, but if it is possible I would use the 45’s.

I would try to do the same on the returns. Instead of using tees & 90’s, use Y’s & 45’s. I would try to setup the returns to where the only 90 u have is at the bulkheads. It’s not always possible to do it that way, but u get 1/2 the head loss with a 45 over a 90. If u replace 2 or 3 90’s with 2 or 3 45’s it makes a difference in head loss.

The valve on the syphon will be fine under the stand, but if u can I would place the valves on the returns close to the bulkheads. It may not be possible because of your access but they are usually on the ends of the tank so u can reach them most of the time. If u want one on each return then it would have to be after the split, so I don’t think u will be able to get them under the stand without having plumbing all in the way under the stand.

Try & keep the plumbing as straight as possible under the stand so u don’t end up with a plumbing all over the place. It will end up being in your way when u have to do something under there.

Thanks Lsufan.

I will put the return gate valves at the top of the return bulkheads as there is room to reach behind. I will remove the tee from the return and replace with a 45 y piece. I will remove the 90 s/r bend from the return and replace with a 45 elbow. I will also replace the first 90 s/r bend on the main drain and replace with a 45 elbow and keep the second 90 to the filter sock? Where should I put the unions? and do I need any non-return valves?

Cheers Ian

[LennyD4]

Originally Posted by Lsufan

Elders pic should give u a good idea on most of the setup because it is similar. I would try to replace those 2 90’s on your main drain with 2 45’s. Basically put a 45 where the first 90 is & run the pipe on a 45 degree angle until u get where u need to go, then put another 45 to get back square with the sump. Sometimes hieght is a issue & u don’t have a choice but to use 90’s, but if it is possible I would use the 45’s.

I would try to do the same on the returns. Instead of using tees & 90’s, use Y’s & 45’s. I would try to setup the returns to where the only 90 u have is at the bulkheads. It’s not always possible to do it that way, but u get 1/2 the head loss with a 45 over a 90. If u replace 2 or 3 90’s with 2 or 3 45’s it makes a difference in head loss.

The valve on the syphon will be fine under the stand, but if u can I would place the valves on the returns close to the bulkheads. It may not be possible because of your access but they are usually on the ends of the tank so u can reach them most of the time. If u want one on each return then it would have to be after the split, so I don’t think u will be able to get them under the stand without having plumbing all in the way under the stand.

Try & keep the plumbing as straight as possible under the stand so u don’t end up with a plumbing all over the place. It will end up being in your way when u have to do something under there.

What fitting did you usee to make the hole and connection in the partial siphon pipe ?


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[Lsufan]

I used a fitting similar to this. The airline slides into one end of it. If u are talking about the hole itself, I tapped the cap to make the female threads to accept this fitting. U can get a nipple the same size as the adapter & drill a hole the size of the id of the nipple. Then thread the nipple into the cap to make the threads.

U can also just use adapters. If u have 1” plumbing u can use a tee inside the overflow box like beananimal did on the design. Then use a 1” to 1/2” reducing bushing on top of the tee. U can get a 1” to 1/2” bushing that the 1/2” side has female threads. Then a 1/2” fitting like I linked will screw right into it. U should be able to find the reducing bushing in whatever size your plumbing is, I just used 1” as a example.

FYI, if u have a beananimal drain then u have a open channel. It isn’t a partial syphon. The only time it should be a syphon is if the syphon & emergency drain both get clogged. The inlet on the airline should be just above the emergency drain.


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[Lsufan]

Originally Posted by fishkeeprian

Thanks Lsufan.

I will put the return gate valves at the top of the return bulkheads as there is room to reach behind. I will remove the tee from the return and replace with a 45 y piece. I will remove the 90 s/r bend from the return and replace with a 45 elbow. I will also replace the first 90 s/r bend on the main drain and replace with a 45 elbow and keep the second 90 to the filter sock? Where should I put the unions? and do I need any non-return valves?

Cheers Ian

If I are talking about a check valve then no, u definitely don’t want to have to rely on a check valve. The system needs to be setup to where the sump can handle the extra water when u turn the return pump off. If u designed your sump like u said u where then u should have plenty of room in your sump for the extra water. One thing to keep in mind is to have your returns just under the surface of the water. When u turn the return pump off the tank will drain down until the returns aren’t submerged. So if u only have your returns 1/2” to 1” under the surface, then the tank will only drain 1/2” to 1” of water. If u have your returns submerged more then that, say 3 or 4” then the tank will drain 3 or 4” of water & the sump may not be able to handle that much water. So it is best to keep the returns as high as possible in the tank so u drain as least as possible when u turn the system off.

When I say replace 2 90’s with 2 45’s, what I mean is to use a 45 & run the pipe on a 45 degree angle until u get to where u need to go. Then u would just put another 45 to get back square with the sump. Sometimes people misunderstand this & they take two 45’s & put together to make a 90. That doesn’t do any good because u essential just made a 90.

I will post a picture so u can see what I am talking about. U can see how I used 2 45’s to get to where I needed to be instead of using two 90’s. I did the same thing coming from my return pump to get out of the back of the stand. I did use a tee & not a Y to split my returns. I did that because I wasn’t worried about head loss as much because I have a huge return pump. I did it that way to keep the plumbing as neat as possible.


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[outy]

A little trick is to use soft flexible return line hooked into pvc hard line for your returns.

It stops vibration from the pump making noise