40breeder with 20 Sump Stand build/questions

LennyD4 · 09/25/2017, 10:30 AM

This weekend I am gping to build a stand for my 40 breeder with a 20 long sump inside the stand. I am planning on using 2x4s for the whole build and making some sort of access panel on the side in case I need to slide the sump out. I will use 3/4 ply for both tanks to sit on a level platform. The only thing really stumping me is how to skin the outside of the tank. My furniture around where the tank with be is more of a textured wood look and not the typical smooth furniture look. I will definitely be staining the stand to match as closely as possible to this furniture.

Does anyone have pictures of their DIY stands that may look similar ?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

mcgyvr · 09/25/2017, 10:57 AM

Just a few suggestions...
You shouldn't need side access as the 20L should be removable by just turning it on an angle and taking one side out before the other (if that) right through the front..

I wouldn't use 2x4s either.. a 3/4" plywood box is plenty strong.. Gives you more room in the bottom too..
Typical cabinet construction is plenty for a tank like that..

Heck you can even pick up a prebuilt base cabinet for under $200 all done/ready to go..
You won't do cheaper with your own..
Slap a top on this and voila..
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Diamond-NOW...binet/50134802

LennyD4 · 09/25/2017, 11:50 AM

I am also dealing with what kind of look my fiancee wants as well because it is in our dinning/living space. I was thinking of building the typical 2x4 stand but instead of 2x4s for the supports in between the top and bottom I would use 1x3s.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

mcgyvr · 09/25/2017, 12:25 PM

By textured do you mean something like weathered or distressed?
Got a pic of the look you are trying to achieve?

But to your "side" question.. Many have used magnets to hold the outer skin in place yet allow it to be easily removable when you want....
one of my old stands was like that.. All sides could be quickly pulled off for total access to everything down there.. It was a really nice feature to have..

LennyD4 · 09/25/2017, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcgyvr

By textured do you mean something like weathered or distressed?
Got a pic of the look you are trying to achieve?

But to your "side" question.. Many have used magnets to hold the outer skin in place yet allow it to be easily removable when you want....
one of my old stands was like that.. All sides could be quickly pulled off for total access to everything down there.. It was a really nice feature to have..

Yes I definitely plan on using magnets for that purpose. Once I get home I will take a picture of my furniture I am trying to get close to.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

LennyD4 · 09/25/2017, 01:44 PM

This is what I am going to try and match. I need to find wood with nice grain like that. Im thinking of going with red oak.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

mcgyvr · 09/25/2017, 03:30 PM

I'd copy the construction details of that so it matched and not build it like the typical 2x with a skin

Apotack · 09/26/2017, 07:05 AM

That pic doesn't look like red oak to me

mcgyvr · 09/26/2017, 07:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Apotack

That pic doesn't look like red oak to me

Its likely "Rubberwood"
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubberwood

LennyD4 · 09/26/2017, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcgyvr

Its likely "Rubberwood"
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubberwood

I just thought about going with Red Oak because it has a nice grain to it and also takes stain better. I will just have to match the stain with that cabinet ...not so much the exact type of material. I am going to have to check out some lumber yards near me and see what they have available because Home Depot is mainly just Pine and smaller pieces of Red Oak.

I am not sure how comfortable I will be if i just build the frame of this out of ply and not have a real structure.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

mcgyvr · 09/26/2017, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LennyD4

I am not sure how comfortable I will be if i just build the frame of this out of ply and not have a real structure.

Thats your choice..
Here is how I built mine for my 80G tank.. 3/4" Plywood and 1x material on the front face.. PLENTY strong with my 80G tank on it..
The 2 side sections are slide out cabinets that hold the electronic one one side and testing kits/etc.. on the other..
Tank sits right on top of the center section...40b sump below

LennyD4 · 09/26/2017, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcgyvr

Thats your choice..
Here is how I built mine for my 80G tank.. 3/4" Plywood and 1x material on the front face.. PLENTY strong with my 80G tank on it..
The 2 side sections are slide out cabinets that hold the electronic one one side and testing kits/etc.. on the other..
Tank sits right on top of the center section...40b sump below

That looks great. What kind of wood did you use ?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

mcgyvr · 09/26/2017, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LennyD4

That looks great. What kind of wood did you use ?

I painted mine to match all the trim/doors,etc... in my house so thats basically just normal sanded plywood and "select" pine 1x material..

But you can see how easy the construction can be.. Just 2 sheets of plywood (4 because of the side sections) on the left and right sides with 1x on the front/back to basically keep those pieces of plywood vertical..
I did put a bottom sheet of plywood down where the sump is and caulked around the whole thing should the sump overflow/break or whatever it can take about 20G of water sitting in there and not go all over the floor..

I did a 3d pdf here showing the same type of construction.. (enable 3d content in your PDF viewer and you should be able to rotate/orbit,etc.. to see the 3d model)
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2652487

This tool ROCKS btw..
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kreg-Pocket...QaAltGEALw_wcB

All the extra room you gain when you get rid of the overkill 2x4s is well worth it..

Lsufan · 09/26/2017, 06:26 PM

This is my 40 breeder stand with 20 L sump. I built a 2 by 4 frame & skinned it with oak. I did put a door on one end. It probably isn't needed but I put one anyways just in case. One thing I will mention is I should have built it 42" tall. The trim & false drawer on the bottom part of the stand I put there because inbuilt the stand 36" tall & didn't like it. So I built a 6" tall frame & put under the stand so it was 42" tall. I used that trim to cover the seam.

I also built a matching cabinet for electronics, my ato container & to store everything so I don't have to put it under the stand.

Mcgyver is right, a 3/4" plywood or 1 by oak will be strong enough without a 2 by 4 frame if it is built correctly. A 2 by 4 frame will work fine to though, if that is what u prefer. This one I skinned the sides & front with oak plywood. I built it a long time ago so it is kinda outdated. On my other stand I used 1 by oak to skin the front & I prefer it that way. I still used a 2 by frame because it is a 150 gallon & I didn't want a center support

LennyD4 · 09/26/2017, 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcgyvr

I painted mine to match all the trim/doors,etc... in my house so thats basically just normal sanded plywood and "select" pine 1x material..

But you can see how easy the construction can be.. Just 2 sheets of plywood (4 because of the side sections) on the left and right sides with 1x on the front/back to basically keep those pieces of plywood vertical..
I did put a bottom sheet of plywood down where the sump is and caulked around the whole thing should the sump overflow/break or whatever it can take about 20G of water sitting in there and not go all over the floor..

I did a 3d pdf here showing the same type of construction.. (enable 3d content in your PDF viewer and you should be able to rotate/orbit,etc.. to see the 3d model)
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2652487

This tool ROCKS btw..
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kreg-Pocket...QaAltGEALw_wcB

All the extra room you gain when you get rid of the overkill 2x4s is well worth it..

That wont load for me no matter what I try. I will definitely take a trip to the local lumber yard to see what I can find to make something similar.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

LennyD4 · 09/26/2017, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lsufan

This is my 40 breeder stand with 20 L sump. I built a 2 by 4 frame & skinned it with oak. I did put a door on one end. It probably isn't needed but I put one anyways just in case. One thing I will mention is I should have built it 42" tall. The trim & false drawer on the bottom part of the stand I put there because inbuilt the stand 36" tall & didn't like it. So I built a 6" tall frame & put under the stand so it was 42" tall. I used that trim to cover the seam.

I also built a matching cabinet for electronics, my ato container & to store everything so I don't have to put it under the stand.

Mcgyver is right, a 3/4" plywood or 1 by oak will be strong enough without a 2 by 4 frame if it is built correctly. A 2 by 4 frame will work fine to though, if that is what u prefer. This one I skinned the sides & front with oak plywood. I built it a long time ago so it is kinda outdated. On my other stand I used 1 by oak to skin the front & I prefer it that way. I still used a 2 by frame because it is a 150 gallon & I didn't want a center support

Thats awesome. Maybe I will go with 42" to also add some space down below foe plumbing and extra storage.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

mcgyvr · 09/27/2017, 04:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LennyD4

That wont load for me no matter what I try. I will definitely take a trip to the local lumber yard to see what I can find to make something similar.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

assuming you are talking about the 3d pdf then you need to look at it on a computer in adobe reader pdf viewer..

LennyD4 · 09/27/2017, 04:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcgyvr

assuming you are talking about the 3d pdf then you need to look at it on a computer in adobe reader pdf viewer..

Oh ok. I think I have a decent idea of what I want to do. I really want to incorporate a sliding door for the front so I am going to look into that as well.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Lsufan · 09/28/2017, 05:40 PM

The problem with a sliding door is it can only slide so far, so it makes the opening small unless u make it to where it can be removed completely. Say u have a 3' long stand. If u make a 2' opening for a door & center it on the stand, that would only leave 6" on each side of the door. So the door would only be able to slide 6" before it is at the end of the stand. That won't work. For a 2' sliding door to open all the way it has to have 2' of room on one side to be able to slide all the way open. U can make it work but U would have to make something for the door to slide in so it will slide completely off one end or the other. U won't be able to purchase brackets for that.

I like to make the opening on the front of the stand as large as possible. I would eighther use magnets or something to hold the door on so u can remove the door completely or use regular hinges so the door swings open. I prefer regular hinges so u don't have to set the door to the side somewhere every time u want to get into the stand.

LennyD4 · 09/30/2017, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lsufan

The problem with a sliding door is it can only slide so far, so it makes the opening small unless u make it to where it can be removed completely. Say u have a 3' long stand. If u make a 2' opening for a door & center it on the stand, that would only leave 6" on each side of the door. So the door would only be able to slide 6" before it is at the end of the stand. That won't work. For a 2' sliding door to open all the way it has to have 2' of room on one side to be able to slide all the way open. U can make it work but U would have to make something for the door to slide in so it will slide completely off one end or the other. U won't be able to purchase brackets for that.

I like to make the opening on the front of the stand as large as possible. I would eighther use magnets or something to hold the door on so u can remove the door completely or use regular hinges so the door swings open. I prefer regular hinges so u don't have to set the door to the side somewhere every time u want to get into the stand.

Yeah magnets will be the way to go. Thats what I looked into originally. Just went to Lowes and my fiancee spotted Pallet boards that they sell which she really likes. I will post a picture. Wondering if i can maybe use pocket screws and glue to make them into a skin. It will be a ton of work but she likes the look.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Lsufan · 09/30/2017, 09:25 PM

Pocket drilling & glue should work on the face. On the two sides I would just glue them together & use brad nails to nail them to the frame if I still plan on having a frame. On the doors u would need to laminate them together. Basically make sure the ends that u are gluing together are perfectly square, then glue them together & use clamps to hold them together until the glue dries. Once it is dry u can remove the clamps & u will have one big panel for a door. U can also do the sides of the stand this way if u don't want to nail each board on individually

mcgyvr · 10/01/2017, 08:20 AM

kreg pocket screws, dowels, biscuits, etc... all suitable methods to put them together to create a larger "board"..

I use the kreg jig for everything.. just too much fun .. No nails anymore for me..

LennyD4 · 10/01/2017, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcgyvr

kreg pocket screws, dowels, biscuits, etc... all suitable methods to put them together to create a larger "board"..

I use the kreg jig for everything.. just too much fun .. No nails anymore for me..

Sweet..think this is what I will do. Just found a decent stain that we both like too and the board seems to take it nicely.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

LennyD4 · 10/08/2017, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcgyvr

I painted mine to match all the trim/doors,etc... in my house so thats basically just normal sanded plywood and "select" pine 1x material..

But you can see how easy the construction can be.. Just 2 sheets of plywood (4 because of the side sections) on the left and right sides with 1x on the front/back to basically keep those pieces of plywood vertical..
I did put a bottom sheet of plywood down where the sump is and caulked around the whole thing should the sump overflow/break or whatever it can take about 20G of water sitting in there and not go all over the floor..

I did a 3d pdf here showing the same type of construction.. (enable 3d content in your PDF viewer and you should be able to rotate/orbit,etc.. to see the 3d model)
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2652487

This tool ROCKS btw..
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kreg-Pocket...QaAltGEALw_wcB

All the extra room you gain when you get rid of the overkill 2x4s is well worth it..

Just purchased some 2x4s and 1x3s to try and start my stand build. So I am aware of the typical 2x4 stand build so I will build the top and bottom with that template. What areas can I use the 1x3s instead of 2x4s to add extra space down below? I know the four 2x4 "risers" are just to keep the whole stand straight and not so much for any support so I was wondering if 1x3s would be too flimsy for that. Next I was wondering if I could use 1x3s for the supports in between the top and bottom frames to support the actual weight of the tank. My goal is to add more space down below and also have a wide enough opening on the side just incase I have to remove a side panel in order to slide my 20L sump out.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk

09/25/2017, 10:30 AM	#1
LennyD4 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Posts: 633	40breeder with 20 Sump Stand build/questions This weekend I am gping to build a stand for my 40 breeder with a 20 long sump inside the stand. I am planning on using 2x4s for the whole build and making some sort of access panel on the side in case I need to slide the sump out. I will use 3/4 ply for both tanks to sit on a level platform. The only thing really stumping me is how to skin the outside of the tank. My furniture around where the tank with be is more of a textured wood look and not the typical smooth furniture look. I will definitely be staining the stand to match as closely as possible to this furniture. Does anyone have pictures of their DIY stands that may look similar ? Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

09/25/2017, 10:57 AM	#2
mcgyvr Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: North Carolina Posts: 20,050	Just a few suggestions... You shouldn't need side access as the 20L should be removable by just turning it on an angle and taking one side out before the other (if that) right through the front.. I wouldn't use 2x4s either.. a 3/4" plywood box is plenty strong.. Gives you more room in the bottom too.. Typical cabinet construction is plenty for a tank like that.. Heck you can even pick up a prebuilt base cabinet for under $200 all done/ready to go.. You won't do cheaper with your own.. Slap a top on this and voila.. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Diamond-NOW...binet/50134802 __________________ Who me?

09/25/2017, 12:25 PM	#4
mcgyvr Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: North Carolina Posts: 20,050	By textured do you mean something like weathered or distressed? Got a pic of the look you are trying to achieve? But to your "side" question.. Many have used magnets to hold the outer skin in place yet allow it to be easily removable when you want.... one of my old stands was like that.. All sides could be quickly pulled off for total access to everything down there.. It was a really nice feature to have.. __________________ Who me?

09/25/2017, 03:30 PM	#7
mcgyvr Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: North Carolina Posts: 20,050	I'd copy the construction details of that so it matched and not build it like the typical 2x with a skin __________________ Who me?

09/26/2017, 07:05 AM	#8
Apotack Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: New York Posts: 297	That pic doesn't look like red oak to me __________________ Adam Current Tank Info: 125gal

09/25/2017, 11:50 AM	#3
LennyD4 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Posts: 633	I am also dealing with what kind of look my fiancee wants as well because it is in our dinning/living space. I was thinking of building the typical 2x4 stand but instead of 2x4s for the supports in between the top and bottom I would use 1x3s. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

09/25/2017, 01:44 PM	#6
LennyD4 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Posts: 633	This is what I am going to try and match. I need to find wood with nice grain like that. Im thinking of going with red oak. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

09/26/2017, 06:26 PM	#14
Lsufan Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Baton Rouge Posts: 1,410	This is my 40 breeder stand with 20 L sump. I built a 2 by 4 frame & skinned it with oak. I did put a door on one end. It probably isn't needed but I put one anyways just in case. One thing I will mention is I should have built it 42" tall. The trim & false drawer on the bottom part of the stand I put there because inbuilt the stand 36" tall & didn't like it. So I built a 6" tall frame & put under the stand so it was 42" tall. I used that trim to cover the seam. I also built a matching cabinet for electronics, my ato container & to store everything so I don't have to put it under the stand. Mcgyver is right, a 3/4" plywood or 1 by oak will be strong enough without a 2 by 4 frame if it is built correctly. A 2 by 4 frame will work fine to though, if that is what u prefer. This one I skinned the sides & front with oak plywood. I built it a long time ago so it is kinda outdated. On my other stand I used 1 by oak to skin the front & I prefer it that way. I still used a 2 by frame because it is a 150 gallon & I didn't want a center support Last edited by Lsufan; 09/26/2017 at 06:36 PM.

09/28/2017, 05:40 PM	#19
Lsufan Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Baton Rouge Posts: 1,410	The problem with a sliding door is it can only slide so far, so it makes the opening small unless u make it to where it can be removed completely. Say u have a 3' long stand. If u make a 2' opening for a door & center it on the stand, that would only leave 6" on each side of the door. So the door would only be able to slide 6" before it is at the end of the stand. That won't work. For a 2' sliding door to open all the way it has to have 2' of room on one side to be able to slide all the way open. U can make it work but U would have to make something for the door to slide in so it will slide completely off one end or the other. U won't be able to purchase brackets for that. I like to make the opening on the front of the stand as large as possible. I would eighther use magnets or something to hold the door on so u can remove the door completely or use regular hinges so the door swings open. I prefer regular hinges so u don't have to set the door to the side somewhere every time u want to get into the stand.

09/30/2017, 09:25 PM	#21
Lsufan Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Baton Rouge Posts: 1,410	Pocket drilling & glue should work on the face. On the two sides I would just glue them together & use brad nails to nail them to the frame if I still plan on having a frame. On the doors u would need to laminate them together. Basically make sure the ends that u are gluing together are perfectly square, then glue them together & use clamps to hold them together until the glue dries. Once it is dry u can remove the clamps & u will have one big panel for a door. U can also do the sides of the stand this way if u don't want to nail each board on individually

10/01/2017, 08:20 AM	#22
mcgyvr Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: North Carolina Posts: 20,050	kreg pocket screws, dowels, biscuits, etc... all suitable methods to put them together to create a larger "board".. I use the kreg jig for everything.. just too much fun .. No nails anymore for me.. __________________ Who me?