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Unread 01/17/2016, 05:18 PM   #1
DBR_reef
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Automatic Mechanical Filter

Automatic mechanical filtration
An automatic mechanical filter provides all the benefits of running filter socks, but removes particulates before they can break down in your tank and increase nitrates, and only needs to be changed once a month or less- depending on design. The basic design is a supply role of filter media, and a spool driven by a motor that takes up used filter media. Bulk Reef Supply sells the Rollermat for $400, which is similar in function. I don’t like the design of the Rollermat, but it’s an OK off the shelf option. This DIY tutorial will show you how to make an auto filter that is inexpensive and compact.

Here is a video of the auto filter in action.
https://youtu.be/mhgBmZE9uCM


And here is how to make it:

Tools needed (ish):
Table saw
Drill press
Router (not really, but if you got ‘em, smoke ‘em!)
Sewing machine (depending on filter media)

Materials:
¼’’ plexiglass- free, I’m a closet hoarder and someone was throwing out large sheets. Price is highly variable, but should be cheap if you find a good plastics supplier, i.e. don’t use home depot.
Silicon- $5
Acrylic cement- I used scigrip 16- $6 on amazon. Those who are better at acrylic fabrication may want to use a less viscous cement.
PVC pipe of various diameters-$5
Power supply- free (we’ll say $15 for the non-hoarder)
Switch- $5
Timer or float switch- $16
Pulley or gear- $5
Dosing pump motor-$12-25 for the non-hoarder

Drip Plate:
This is not a real drip plate, since it will be submerged in your sump, but the idea is the same. I made mine out of ¼’’ plexi. Holes are space randomly approximately 1/2 inch apart. I used a ¼’’ drill bit and chamfered the holes on one the filter side, although this is not entirely necessary. I can’t find a good off the shelf option, but if someone knows of one please comment where to find it. This plate can also be positioned horizontally if space is not a problem



Filter media guides:
I splurged here and mostly used plexi rod ($7 on ebay). You can just as easily use pvc. ½ ‘’ diameter seems to work well. I siliconed mine in place ¼’’ away the drip plate. Depending on filter media this dimension might have to be more or less.



Filter Housing:
I used ¼’’ plexi. My housing is designed to fit on a 40 gallon breeder sump. My sump must be under my tank, and I have limited clearance (about a foot above the breeder), so my housing is side loading. The spool holder is held in place by the front panel, which is held in place by ¼’’ nylon bolts. For the various holes needed, drill slowly, and use a hole saw for holes over ¼’’. If you run a sump outside the stand, I highly recommend having the spools load from the top, as this simplifies construction and maintenance. The plate that holds the motor can be taken out the top of the housing for servicing.




Motor and electronics:
A dosing pump motor or other low rpm motor. I used a gearmotor that I had lying around from a medical dosing pump, but a regular dosing motor should work just fine. Gearmotors can be bought for $25 on ebay if you want the more durable solution- they use a high rpm motor and step it down using gears.



A pulley or gear with a set screw. Must fit over the motor spindle and inside the pvc pipe you are using as a spool ( I used 1.5’’) - I found a pulley at my local hardware store and removed one of the side guides, but McMaster-Carr and ebay carry all sorts if you can’t find one. Silicon the pulley into the pvc spool.




I wanted to be able to reverse my take up spool so that I could easily unload it, so I used a double throw, double pole switch from my local hardware store. Wired like this:




AC adapter- most dosing pump motors are 12 volt, mine was 24 volt

You will need a way to control when the motor advances and the spool takes up filter media. The Rollermat uses a float switch, and advances the spool when the media begins to clog and water level rises. This is probably a better option if you use a very fine filter media. If you go this route you can just wire the float switch inline between the switch and motor. I didn’t want to leave detritus in the tank that long and am using a 200 micron filter media, so I chose to use a timer instead. The downside to this method is that less material is exchanged at the beginning of the spool than at the end- i.e. the circumference of the take up spool changes. You can mitigate this by using a larger spool. You need a timer that can be programmed for a certain number of seconds, or a tank controller. I found this timer off amazon: Digital Programmable Timer Socket Plug Wall Home Plug-in switch Energy-Saving Outlet - do an amazon search- apparently I can't link.

Filter Media:
There are multiple options for filter media. Anything that can be used to make a filter sock will work. The two most economical options are batting (approx. 200 micron) and milk filter paper (approx. 35-50 micron). I bought 7 yards of soft and bright for $30 at the fabric store, and sewed two lengths together for 14 yards, with enough material left over to make two more spools. This material is not indestructible, so use a laundry bag when you throw it in the washer to clean it. The second, disposable option, is milk filter paper. You can buy a case of 6 12’’ by 200’ rolls for $140 online. If you changed a foot a day, that is enough to last more than 3 years. Lastly you need a way to attach the media to the take up spool. I sewed two straps to the batting, and threaded them through 2 holes in the pvc I drilled. If you are using paper then a single hole that you pull the paper through would work well.



That’s it!


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Unread 01/17/2016, 08:03 PM   #2
kenneth wolfe
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I really like this, where does the water come in?


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Unread 01/17/2016, 08:13 PM   #3
kenneth wolfe
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what about something like this for medis


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Unread 01/17/2016, 08:14 PM   #4
kenneth wolfe
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Coolant-filt...YAAOSwwE5WYJ-C


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Unread 01/17/2016, 08:23 PM   #5
DBR_reef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenneth wolfe View Post
I really like this, where does the water come in?
The water comes in from the side, from next to the motor casing. If I didn't have to have this under the display tank I think I would have turned the whole thing sideways and laid the drip plate flat.


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Unread 01/20/2016, 01:06 AM   #6
bigrock
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Great idea. I have been trying to design a sump with this built in it for over a year now but just can't quite get the design figured out. This really helps.

What range of rpm's do you think would work well?
Also do you feel like the media needs to be held tighter to the drip plate so water doesn't flow around the edges and bypass the felt all together?


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Unread 01/20/2016, 08:56 AM   #7
DBR_reef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigrock View Post
Great idea. I have been trying to design a sump with this built in it for over a year now but just can't quite get the design figured out. This really helps.

What range of rpm's do you think would work well?
Also do you feel like the media needs to be held tighter to the drip plate so water doesn't flow around the edges and bypass the felt all together?
I have not had any issues with water bypassing the felt- the water flow alone holds it pretty well in place. If you had a drip plate that was to large for the amount of flow through the sump I can see this being a problem though. One way to make it a non issue is to put the drip plate horizontal, above the water line- just takes up more space.

As far as RPMs, mine is at 30 rpm, and I would not want it any faster. However there is a fair bit of wiggle room in what motor you use, because you can always run it at a lower voltage. I would recommend this motor off ebay- it is only $10 and has a plastic housing which will probably hold up better with saltwater. Plus it is Japanese made. You could run it at 6v or 5v (which is what usb uses), and according to the item description it should be close to 30 rpm . it is item number 181990181781. DC 6V 12V 24V Japan TAKANAWA Metal Gear Motor Geared Motor Generator #M2299 QL


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Unread 01/20/2016, 11:45 PM   #8
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Great thanks for the link. Just ordered 2 of them. Will have to give this a shot on my next sump.


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Unread 02/06/2016, 05:31 PM   #9
DBR_reef
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Update: do not glue the pvc take up spool to the gear/pulley with silicon. It does not adhere well to the pvc and will eventually fail- use a 2 part epoxy.

Other than that- I haven't changed a filter sock in a month and it is soooo awesome


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Unread 02/06/2016, 07:13 PM   #10
bigrock
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How do you remove the spool of dirty felt if you are glueing the spool to the pulley?
Do you loosen the set screws and slide of the motor shaft? Do you have room to do that when the full roll is on their?

The motors you recommended just showed up so looking for my pulley now that will fit the 6mm motor shaft and a 1.5" pvc. Looked on eBay for an hour but can't seem to find one. Any ideas?


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Unread 02/06/2016, 08:02 PM   #11
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lol hope you got a patient on that..


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Unread 02/06/2016, 08:10 PM   #12
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To late!
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2548059


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Unread 02/06/2016, 08:21 PM   #13
geekengineer
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figures.. every good idea is taken.


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Come back from the dead. Not sure what I'm doing at this time.. have a 30 Gallon DT and 20 Sump sitting in mothballs.

Other interests DYI, 3D printing,

Current Tank Info: 30 gal saltwater and 20 gal sump
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Unread 02/06/2016, 08:22 PM   #14
DBR_reef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigrock View Post
How do you remove the spool of dirty felt if you are glueing the spool to the pulley?
Do you loosen the set screws and slide of the motor shaft? Do you have room to do that when the full roll is on their?

The motors you recommended just showed up so looking for my pulley now that will fit the 6mm motor shaft and a 1.5" pvc. Looked on eBay for an hour but can't seem to find one. Any ideas?
My gearmotor has a flat shaft, so I can just not tighten the set screw down all the way and it slides right off. You can achieve the same thing by grinding a flat spot on the shaft. but if you wire in a switch then you can also reverse the whole spool off.

As far as what gear or pulley to use, without a good store to just try them out at it will be a bit challenging. You bought a 6mm shaft motor, so you need a 6mm bore pulley or gear. it seams like for our saltwater, aluminum would be a good material choice. I searched 6mm bore aluminum pulley on ebay and found item 261367424871
http://www.ebay.com/itm/XL-Type-XL35...item3cdab66767

It looks like it should fit schd 40 1.5'' pvc, but you'll want to double check. You could choose a different size too. It is also 3 times what I paid for mine, so I'm sure you can easily find something cheaper.

This website has all the pvc dimensions for sch 40 and 80 and will help you pick a pvc pipe pulley/gear combo
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pv...ons-d_795.html


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Unread 02/06/2016, 08:50 PM   #15
DBR_reef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geekengineer View Post
figures.. every good idea is taken.
I'm pretty sure the patent on drum filters has long since expired theiling is just the only company to get a product to customers for a somewhat reasonable price. problem is it doesn't fit most sumps right. what we really need is a sump manufacture to incorporate one into their design- trigger systems


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Unread 02/06/2016, 08:56 PM   #16
geekengineer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBR_reef View Post
I'm pretty sure the patent on drum filters has long since expired theiling is just the only company to get a product to customers for a somewhat reasonable price. problem is it doesn't fit most sumps right. what we really need is a sump manufacture to incorporate one into their design- trigger systems
yeah true.. I figured they been done before but never thought about it seems like a neat idea if you can of course have room to fit it in. I don't know in mine if I would have room since I have such tight space.


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Unread 02/07/2016, 12:22 PM   #17
bigrock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBR_reef View Post
I'm pretty sure the patent on drum filters has long since expired theiling is just the only company to get a product to customers for a somewhat reasonable price. problem is it doesn't fit most sumps right. what we really need is a sump manufacture to incorporate one into their design- trigger systems
After I saw the rollermat on a brs video from interzoo a few years ago I designed a sump to have it built in but I have never gotten around to trying a proof of concept. So yours really helped me visualize what it would look like in a sump. At first I was thinking of ordering a rollermat to deconstruct it and add the parts I needed into the sump but I wanted the spools to be a little wider for more flow in the new sump. Here is my design but I think Im going to try a smaller prototype to make sure it will work.
sump photo Sump.png


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Unread 02/07/2016, 01:11 PM   #18
DBR_reef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigrock View Post
After I saw the rollermat on a brs video from interzoo a few years ago I designed a sump to have it built in but I have never gotten around to trying a proof of concept. So yours really helped me visualize what it would look like in a sump. At first I was thinking of ordering a rollermat to deconstruct it and add the parts I needed into the sump but I wanted the spools to be a little wider for more flow in the new sump. Here is my design but I think Im going to try a smaller prototype to make sure it will work.
sump photo Sump.png
That is a truly awesome design!

my only suggestions are not to have holes so close to the edge of your drip plate, and that it doesn't look like you have enough space between the two spools. Also if you don't need the bend in your drip plate I would not put one in- each bend you put in requires a guide, and each guide is a PITA to get your media through, even though you only have to do it once a month or so.


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Unread 02/08/2016, 12:45 AM   #19
bigrock
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Yes I think you're right, need to take out 2 rows of holes on each side of plates. I was going to have the guide rods removable so i can install the felt easier but might take your advice and make it a flat plate to simplify things.

What's your thoughts on the width of the filter media? Should I try and get as tight a fit as possible or is a little space nessasary for smooth movement of the felt?

What's your thoughts on flow through the batting your using? I'm going to need 4-5000 gph of flow to go through this design. I think I'm going to wire in a float switch to control the motor.

Thanks for the tips.


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Unread 02/08/2016, 07:52 AM   #20
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I don't use any mechanical filters. Why would I want to spend $400 on something like this. What does a roll of the filter material cost?
Take a look at how ponds are mechanically filtered.


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Unread 02/08/2016, 09:32 AM   #21
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Theiling's design, the one brs sells, is very similar to the expensive pond filters.
Here's a video of Theiling demonstrating his model at a trade show
http://youtu.be/vCyUdIDg4KQ


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Unread 02/08/2016, 10:22 AM   #22
DBR_reef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Windy2 View Post
I don't use any mechanical filters. Why would I want to spend $400 on something like this. What does a roll of the filter material cost?

Take a look at how ponds are mechanically filtered.

Pods are not pelagic organisms, so in theory they should not make it from the dt to the sump, and in practice most people find under 10 pods per week in their filter socks- not enough to make a difference. And filter socks have been shown to reduce BOD if replaced frequently. They also greatly increase water clarity. If you don't run filter socks then you have to remove detritus some other way, whether that is vacuuming out your sump or letting it break down or be consumed. Saying you don't need mechanical filtration is like saying you don't need a skimmer- you don't, but there is a reason most large, professional tanks run both mechanical filters and skimmers.


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Unread 02/08/2016, 11:10 AM   #23
DBR_reef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigrock View Post
Yes I think you're right, need to take out 2 rows of holes on each side of plates. I was going to have the guide rods removable so i can install the felt easier but might take your advice and make it a flat plate to simplify things.

What's your thoughts on the width of the filter media? Should I try and get as tight a fit as possible or is a little space nessasary for smooth movement of the felt?

What's your thoughts on flow through the batting your using? I'm going to need 4-5000 gph of flow to go through this design. I think I'm going to wire in a float switch to control the motor.

Thanks for the tips.

You've gone beyond what I can answer for you! I had the rim of the 40b to deal with so my felt had to have a lot of space- I think I would go with a tight fit- if it doesn't work trim it down.

4-5000 gph is a ton of flow. How much turnover do you have? Do you have a reason to push that much water?
I have no idea how much surface area you would need. But I can guess I would think a 7" filter sock would handle the flow easily for a day- it would have a surface area ~250 square inches. So a drip plate of 15x15" would seem sufficient. maybe. I really don't know.


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Unread 02/10/2016, 12:35 AM   #24
bigrock
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This is a sump for a 1500 gallon tank so it's only around 3-4x turnover rate. I have the drip plates right around 15" so I think I'll be pretty close. Worst case is the motor will have to run a little more often and I refill the spool a little sooner.
Thanks


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Unread 02/14/2016, 09:15 AM   #25
csb123
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Very cool. Does the used media portion ever dry out on its spindle?
If not it must get pretty heavy. Will that motor handle the torque?


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