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04/16/2019, 04:44 PM | #1 |
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Prazipro caused all fish to stop eating..
So i suspect i have black ich on my naso tang.. so i dosed prazi pro in my tank which im doing hypo in as well and within a day my flame anthias naso tang. Foxface everyone else stopped eating. The naso tang anal area as well as the anthias look swollen their breathing is heavy yet i have alot of airation in the tank. The naso belly is huge like he swallowed a golf ball... wth
I just put in 4 cartridges of carbon... ive never dosed prazo in marine tanks before onky fresh water... but it seems non of my fish like it. Dont think ima use this stuff again.. google searchs showed naso tangs seem to swell up when using prazi for other people as well... geesh. |
04/16/2019, 08:25 PM | #2 |
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Appetite suppression is a common side effect of prazi. The fish usually resume eating after a day or two.
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04/17/2019, 02:52 AM | #3 |
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Did you use it in the display or quarantine tank?
And did you do a (nearly) complete water change before dosing? I noticed that when you dose in an established tank (even an established QT) with potentially oxygen-consuming material in it (detritus, bio filter) it may cause some significant oxygen deprivation that causes the fish to be distressed. I also just dosed two QTs with PraziPro, also both on hyposalinity. But this time I did an 80% water change and added massive flow (1200 l/h Marineland powerhead in a 10-gallon tank!) and the fish seem to have no problems or loss of appetite this time around.
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Pairs: 4 percula, 3 P. kauderni, 3 D. excisus, 1 ea of P. diacanthus, S. splendidus, C. altivelis O. rosenblatti, D. janssi, S. yasha & a Gramma loreto trio 3 P. diacanthus. 2 C. starcki Current Tank Info: 200 gal 4 tank system (40x28x24 + 40B + 40B sump tank + 20g refugium) + 30x18x18 mixed reef + 20g East Pacific biotop + 20g FW +... |
04/17/2019, 03:39 AM | #4 |
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My 135 is my hospital right now. I have a 1250gph power head. A 400gph power head. Two emperor 400s and two sprays bars running. So i dont see how o2 was low. And yes i did a 50% water change prior.
My naso tang is ao bloated its like his anal section is open.. its weird.. and my flame anthias was breathing heavily and lethargic as were other fish not eating or acting different. I did a 60% water change last night.. Filled both emperors with carbon in socks and thise cartridge things the biowheels have.. and i put carbon in both internal filters.. i hope it works.. I noticed no change hours later though. Hope my anthias doesnt die.. Seems anytime i use meds with salt water fish they just cant handle it like im reading they can. So thats probly the last time i use medication.. So far in 3 weeks of hypo ive lost no fish.. but i cant explain why my naso tang has these grey.blackish dots on him looks just like ich when it fell off the fish 2 weeks ago.. hypo is working.. i mean id have all dead tangs and stuff.. but still im wondering what will happen when i stop after another 5 weeks. Because if it comes back.. Im seriously gonna consider quitting this hobby and sticking to fresh water.. its becoming tiresome and expensive.. and im losing sleep over this. Just too many parasites and too hard to get rid of in salt water. Pray my fish make it.. i dont want that anthias to die i really like the ignitius/flame anthias. Its really pretty in my opinion. Last edited by PCguy21; 04/17/2019 at 03:45 AM. |
04/17/2019, 12:20 PM | #5 |
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You may just be using the wrong medications. With saltwater fish you kind of need to be your own vet and aquire a lot of knowledge. One of the most important things I have learned is that the normal fish store meds are of very limited use.
The real life savers are often antibiotics. Especially when you run a tank on hyposalinity, bacterial blooms and infections can become an issue. As for freshwater being easier - I don't think so. I've always had much more trouble keeping those fish alive than reef fish, and they come with far more parasites. West African cichlids, for example, come to 90% infested with nematodes. And then you have all the fungi to deal with that thrive in freshwater... Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
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Pairs: 4 percula, 3 P. kauderni, 3 D. excisus, 1 ea of P. diacanthus, S. splendidus, C. altivelis O. rosenblatti, D. janssi, S. yasha & a Gramma loreto trio 3 P. diacanthus. 2 C. starcki Current Tank Info: 200 gal 4 tank system (40x28x24 + 40B + 40B sump tank + 20g refugium) + 30x18x18 mixed reef + 20g East Pacific biotop + 20g FW +... |
04/17/2019, 12:55 PM | #6 |
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Malachite green is a god send in fresh water if you have fungus. Furan 2 works good as well.. ive never had issues with fresh water asside from discus plague wiping out my discus once.
I lost my flame anthias. And i have actuzl prazi pro from hikkari not some other brand.. So i dunno. Im pretty upset about the flame.ignitus anthias... Naso isnt so bloated today but hes still breathing heavier.. yellow tang is just being a recluse. Petoc is having a 25% off all salt water corals fish ect this weekend.. friday to sunday. So maybe i can get a new anthias itll reset my hypo but maybe ill put it in my 5 gallon and do him or whoever i get seperatly. Can flame angles handle hypo ? I read angles and butterflies cant handle it.. ? Or was it angles not handling copper veey well i forgot |
04/17/2019, 01:45 PM | #7 |
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All ray-finned saltwater fish should be able to handle hyposalinity (all of today's bony fish descend from freshwater fish).
The only fish that can't handle hyposalinity are the marin cartilaginous fish (sharks and rays). I've done hyposalinity treatment with angles without issues. You might want to look into getting some antibiotics. I found Septra to be highly effective against gill infections (fish breathing rapidly without other visible symptoms). It's available from Thomas Labs under the name Fish Sulpha. It usually gets the fish back to breathing normal over night. You may however need to treat the underlying cause with additional meds. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
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Pairs: 4 percula, 3 P. kauderni, 3 D. excisus, 1 ea of P. diacanthus, S. splendidus, C. altivelis O. rosenblatti, D. janssi, S. yasha & a Gramma loreto trio 3 P. diacanthus. 2 C. starcki Current Tank Info: 200 gal 4 tank system (40x28x24 + 40B + 40B sump tank + 20g refugium) + 30x18x18 mixed reef + 20g East Pacific biotop + 20g FW +... |
04/17/2019, 09:23 PM | #8 |
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My fish are ok now.. been 24 hrs since carbon was put in. There all eating now. I have furan 2 which two kinds of antibiotics but i dont need em now.. the prazi just didnt go well with my fish for some reason.
Should i use distilled watee or the refracto juice to calibrate my fefractometer.. someone mentioned to use ro di vs 1.0264 refracto juice since 1.08 is closer to 1.00 then 1.0264... i dont have ro di so i got distilled and its showing my refractometer in the negative by 2 points.. which means my salinity is 1.010 or 1.011 instead of 1.008 Which one should i go off.. ?? |
04/17/2019, 09:40 PM | #9 |
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Nvm after a min temp equalized and distilled is showing 1.00 tap water is 1.01 and refracto showed 1.0264. So distilled water is no diff then refracto juice lol...
At least i know ive been maintaining 1.08 |
04/18/2019, 01:16 AM | #10 |
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If you calibrate for hyposalinity then use RO/DI.
If you calibrate for regular salinity then use the 35 ppt standard solution. I have 2 refractometers so I don't have to recalibrate all the time. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
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Pairs: 4 percula, 3 P. kauderni, 3 D. excisus, 1 ea of P. diacanthus, S. splendidus, C. altivelis O. rosenblatti, D. janssi, S. yasha & a Gramma loreto trio 3 P. diacanthus. 2 C. starcki Current Tank Info: 200 gal 4 tank system (40x28x24 + 40B + 40B sump tank + 20g refugium) + 30x18x18 mixed reef + 20g East Pacific biotop + 20g FW +... |
04/18/2019, 05:51 PM | #11 |
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Distilled is more pure then ro di fyi.
Nothing can beat evaporated water lol |
04/19/2019, 11:52 AM | #12 | |
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Quote:
Water evaporated by heat (boiling) can carry substantial amounts of salt and other "impurities". That's why you can smell soups. You would need to start with relatively pure water to get clean distilled water. That's why distilled water is often distilled several times. And even then it is still far from "pure". But for our purpose absolute purity is irrelevant. What we need is the absence of salts in the solution. And RO-DI provides that sufficiently. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
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Pairs: 4 percula, 3 P. kauderni, 3 D. excisus, 1 ea of P. diacanthus, S. splendidus, C. altivelis O. rosenblatti, D. janssi, S. yasha & a Gramma loreto trio 3 P. diacanthus. 2 C. starcki Current Tank Info: 200 gal 4 tank system (40x28x24 + 40B + 40B sump tank + 20g refugium) + 30x18x18 mixed reef + 20g East Pacific biotop + 20g FW +... |
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04/19/2019, 12:01 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
Salt doesnt evaporate lol.. no offense man at all normally im not a dick.. but did you graduate high school ? The boiling point of salt is much higher then water... there is 0 salt in distilled water. Where are you getting this from ? Better yet dont answer because im not going to argue over something as stupid as distilled water having salt in it lol. |
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04/19/2019, 12:54 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
The salts don't evaporate but are carried by the evaporating water molecules. That's why distilled water is generally distilled at least twice. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
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Pairs: 4 percula, 3 P. kauderni, 3 D. excisus, 1 ea of P. diacanthus, S. splendidus, C. altivelis O. rosenblatti, D. janssi, S. yasha & a Gramma loreto trio 3 P. diacanthus. 2 C. starcki Current Tank Info: 200 gal 4 tank system (40x28x24 + 40B + 40B sump tank + 20g refugium) + 30x18x18 mixed reef + 20g East Pacific biotop + 20g FW +... |
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04/19/2019, 03:53 PM | #15 |
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Now that’s very interesting
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