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03/24/2009, 03:37 PM | #451 |
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ReefEnabler,
" If anybody knows how to interface with DMX dimming I'd be interested to know." DMX-512 is RS485 serial at 250 Kbaud so it's really just a simple 8 bit serial protocol. You could control these with a PC serial port and a converter: http://www.electronics-lab.com/blog/?tag=rs485 Someone would just need to find, or write, the driver software to comply with the protocol. Stu
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Some people think that I have Attention Deficit Disorder. They just dont understand that........ Hey! Look a chicken! Well, We KNOW GOD exists, but for US to exist without a GOD is preposterous….Umm wait a minute…. Sounds a bit circular to me… Current Tank Info: 125 Gal. display w/80 gal mud/caulerpa sump. Basement sump w/ LED Grow Light,Gravity fed Reeflo200 skimmer w/ ORCA Recirc, DIY calc reactor & kalk stirrer. Inline plumbed 75 Gal frag/settling tank. |
03/24/2009, 03:49 PM | #452 |
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Here is a power supply that is $1 per Watt:
http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/727...-36-c0700.html It might seem expensive at $50, but can drive ~9 LEDs per string. Stu
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Some people think that I have Attention Deficit Disorder. They just dont understand that........ Hey! Look a chicken! Well, We KNOW GOD exists, but for US to exist without a GOD is preposterous….Umm wait a minute…. Sounds a bit circular to me… Current Tank Info: 125 Gal. display w/80 gal mud/caulerpa sump. Basement sump w/ LED Grow Light,Gravity fed Reeflo200 skimmer w/ ORCA Recirc, DIY calc reactor & kalk stirrer. Inline plumbed 75 Gal frag/settling tank. |
03/24/2009, 04:07 PM | #453 |
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Soundwave... I was just wondering how your setup is doing? any problems? blown LED's?
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03/24/2009, 04:10 PM | #454 | |
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Quote:
Once I get these LEDs going I want to try get back into the rest of it. Have you had any progress with the code to dim smoothly??
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- Ryan B "that is enough skimmate to ruin lives." - GSMguy Current Tank Info: 220g Display, 70g sump, 35g frag, 50g fuge, 2x250w MH, 1x400w MH, 2x80w T5, 2x140w VHO Actinic |
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03/24/2009, 04:32 PM | #455 |
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ReefEnabler,
"Have you had any progress with the code to dim smoothly??" The code works just fine but the daughter-board layout wasnt finalized yet ( remember I was still experimenting with which Opto coupler was best ). However I am gearing up for diving back into it. I have ALL of the parts in hand. With getting back from 2 months in Cocoa Beach, Fla. and working 3rd shifts for a few weeks, it messes with the plans. My current plan is to make a tank controller that is meant for JUST the hood and power control for the Display. It will have 4-12VDC current control channels for fans, night lights, and LEDs, and ~6 AC power controls for lights, pumps, etc. It is ALL enet controlled. I can add more PWM channels, but they would have to be software controlled rather than hardware. The RCM4010 only has 4 hardware controlled PWM channels. Stu
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Some people think that I have Attention Deficit Disorder. They just dont understand that........ Hey! Look a chicken! Well, We KNOW GOD exists, but for US to exist without a GOD is preposterous….Umm wait a minute…. Sounds a bit circular to me… Current Tank Info: 125 Gal. display w/80 gal mud/caulerpa sump. Basement sump w/ LED Grow Light,Gravity fed Reeflo200 skimmer w/ ORCA Recirc, DIY calc reactor & kalk stirrer. Inline plumbed 75 Gal frag/settling tank. |
03/24/2009, 08:33 PM | #456 |
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can someone explain to me why we are hooking up the LEDs in a series as opposed to parallel? What are the advantages of each method?
Thanks |
03/24/2009, 08:37 PM | #457 |
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Hello all… Long time reader, first time poster here. I figured it is time to cut my teeth on the forum.
I have a DIY system I am trying to build a lighting system for and decided to go LED since I love the LED’s on my current system. I am doing 20x20x16 Acrylic rimless reef tank and was wondering what would some of you choose for lighting it up? I want to keep the light about 6-8 inches above the water (which is 3/8-1/2 of an inch from the top) I’ll want to keep mainly SPS’s and probably an anemone or two. Thank you all in advance, and I am glad I finally joined. |
03/24/2009, 09:38 PM | #458 |
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Goofy, the setup is going great. I screwed up somehow and killed my green monti cap that was growing so well. It totally bleached out and no other coral was affected. I'm so lost as to why that happened. I just reloaded my phosban and boom, the next day is showed signs of bleaching and today, dead. bummer.
My optics showed up today and I plan on starting the work tomorrow night. I found a use for my new drill and I am going to completely re-do my rock work in the tank. I'm going with pillars and caves instead of my "fruit stand" style of setup where the rocks have been piled against the back glass for the past two and some change years. I will post pictures at some point but I will be a busy bee for the next week. |
03/24/2009, 10:37 PM | #459 | |
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Quote:
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03/24/2009, 10:40 PM | #460 | |
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Quote:
There are numerous reasons. |
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03/24/2009, 10:46 PM | #461 | |
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Quote:
Start with the excellent top project that Soundwave provided. Scale it to what your needs are. |
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03/25/2009, 07:11 AM | #462 | |
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Kcress - I read the whole thread, but I'm not the most technical person, so I must have missed this as well.
Can you help me understand this a little bit better as well? thanks. Quote:
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03/25/2009, 08:14 AM | #463 |
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Ok Guys if I do this way I can have them run from 2 x 200 watts LED drivers (not power supply)
Or if I driver them from 4 x 100 watts LED drivers (not power supply then it will look like this. Any comments am I still on the wrong path?
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Tahir Iqbal Manchester UK Current Tank Info: 56cm x 56cm x 56cm |
03/25/2009, 08:16 AM | #464 | |
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fernandokng,
1) at the bottom of the page, click "show printable version" 2) once that loads, click "Show all 463 posts from this thread on one page" (this is on the top right near the page numbers and prev next 3) Press Ctrl+F 4) Type "Parallel" 5) hit "next" until you get a post that explains it. Searching in this way brought me to the answer you want in about 10 seconds. Theres more said on the subject, just search for it in this thread. This method of searching a whole thread has always been better for me than using the RC search or google with keywords (If I know something is in fact in the thread) Quote:
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- Ryan B "that is enough skimmate to ruin lives." - GSMguy Current Tank Info: 220g Display, 70g sump, 35g frag, 50g fuge, 2x250w MH, 1x400w MH, 2x80w T5, 2x140w VHO Actinic |
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03/25/2009, 09:19 AM | #465 |
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Ryan - that is clever! Thanks. Learn something new everyday
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03/25/2009, 09:33 AM | #466 |
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This thread has been nominated for "April's Thread of the Month". Please take a moment to read each of the nominees and vote.
Vote for Thread of the Month
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Save the Reefs................................................................Save the world! -Ken Current Tank Info: Currently tankless, and loving it! |
03/25/2009, 10:25 AM | #467 |
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Voted!
Like i wrote earlier, this is TOTM for sure!
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Sent from my TF 300 or my SGH-T989D both on Jelly Bean. |
03/25/2009, 12:02 PM | #468 |
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Sweet! Vote!
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03/25/2009, 12:47 PM | #469 |
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I voted for you.
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03/25/2009, 01:10 PM | #470 | |
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Quote:
I never knew this.. |
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03/25/2009, 01:15 PM | #471 |
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Hopefully this 'secret' doesn't spread too fast and we crash RC by all opening entire threads from now on j/k
actually its a pain in the behind to actually read a thread like that, but handy for searching, especially if you're scanning a big thread for a picture you recall.
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- Ryan B "that is enough skimmate to ruin lives." - GSMguy Current Tank Info: 220g Display, 70g sump, 35g frag, 50g fuge, 2x250w MH, 1x400w MH, 2x80w T5, 2x140w VHO Actinic |
03/25/2009, 01:22 PM | #472 |
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tahiriqbal; You need to read that same passage ReefEnabler just put up.. I don't think you're understanding the hazard of parallel LEDs especially high power LEDs.
If you build any of those diagrams you risk major failures on a regular basis. The more strings in parallel the more likely you will hook up an unmatched group. That group will either hog current or shunt current to the other strings overloading them. Very likely some of those strings would give poor performance from the minute you turned that on. You would see really bright strings and dim strings. (poor performance) The bright ones would be rapidly degrading the dim ones would be waiting their turn to fail. You also run the risk of a fire with HPLEDs and that much drive spread over parallel chains. To do it correctly - use a driver per chain . |
03/25/2009, 01:33 PM | #473 |
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Soundwave now another week has passed what is your tank evaluation?
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I am lost in every-way there is.............literally.............just plain LOST |
03/25/2009, 02:46 PM | #474 |
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The way Soundwave LEDs are set up, they are in series - so if one blows out, the full row of LEDs shuts off, but saving the other bulbs from burning out.
How do you replace the bulb if the LED is permantly expoxied to the Heatsink? |
03/25/2009, 02:48 PM | #475 |
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You shouldn't use epoxy under the whole surface of the star mount, there should be thermal grease under most of the center.
If using epoxy I'd suggest it only go around the edges, and then it would be easy to just slip a razor blade around the parimeter and pop it off, and another would fit right in there.
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- Ryan B "that is enough skimmate to ruin lives." - GSMguy Current Tank Info: 220g Display, 70g sump, 35g frag, 50g fuge, 2x250w MH, 1x400w MH, 2x80w T5, 2x140w VHO Actinic |
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