Will my tank be overcrowded?

[Zionas]

I know an overcrowded tank leads to more stress, poorer water quality (especially if it’s newer), disease, aggression and so on. With my current stocking list, will my tank be overcrowded? Are there any fish that I should remove? I only intend to have fish that I can keep for the duration of their lifespans in my tank. Coral wise it will be 50/50 softies and LPS Mixed Reef.

Tank is a custom 183 gallons, 6 foot (1.8m) by 2.3 foot (0.7m) by 1.8 foot (0.55m).

My stocking list is as follows:

x1 Yellow Watchman Goby + Pistol Shrimp combo

x6 Pajama Cardinalfish

x2 Heniochus Bannerfish

x1 One Spot Foxface

x1 Marine Betta

x2 Ocellaris Clownfish (Captive Bred)

x1 Royal Gramma

x1 Flame Hawkfish

x1 Long Nose Hawkfish

x1 Flame Angelfish

x1 Yellow Tang

x1 Tomini Tang (recent addition)

x1 Twinspot Hogfish

x4 YT Blue Damsels (recent addition)


Thanks.


Is it:

1. Understocked

2. Just about right

3. Slightly / somewhat overstocked

4. Overstocked

5. Very overstocked



Skimmer is a Bubble King Eco Max 250, good for tanks up to 400 gallons.

[Zionas]

Okay, so far I have decided to axe the following fish:

-Flame Angelfish (comparatively “iffy” in hardiness)

-Tomini Tang (not as easy to feed as a Zebrasoma like the Yellow)

-Royal Gramma (maybe too shy / reclusive in my tank)

-2/6 Pajama Cardinalfish


Update:

-I will get only one Hawkfish: the Flame or the Longnose.




Can 2 Bannerfish live their whole lives inside a 6-foot 180? I know they can get to like 10”.

[Zionas]

Further cuts as of today: x4 YT Blue Damsels (I have opted out of any damsels for now because they’re too hard to catch if I ever need to move the tank.

Decided to keep both Hawkfish.


Total of 15 fish now.

x1 YWG + Pistol Shrimp combo

x4 PJ Cardinals

x2 Longfin Bannerfish

x1 One Spot Foxface

x1 Marine Betta

x2 Ocellaris Clowns (Captive Bred)

x1 Flame Hawk

x1 Longnose Hawk

x1 Yellow Tang

x1 Twinspot Hogfish


Anything else I can remove?

[zhangster]

I'd say your tank sounded just about right in the first post. But there are many variables like what equipment you're running in the sump, how often you feed, any incompatible tank mates, how often is your WC, how much hiding space, etc.

[Zionas]

Thanks for the reply. I’m not entirely sure what equipment I will be running in the sump yet but I do plan to provide caves and hiding spots throughout my tank, overhangs too, and my skimmer will be a Bubble King Eco Max 250 that’s good for a tank up to 400 gallons. I plan to feed once in the morning, once in the later afternoon. Do you foresee any compatibility issues between any of my fish?

[zhangster]

Sorry I do not have experience with some of your fish but I don't see any red flags.

Originally Posted by Zionas

Thanks for the reply. I’m not entirely sure what equipment I will be running in the sump yet but I do plan to provide caves and hiding spots throughout my tank, overhangs too, and my skimmer will be a Bubble King Eco Max 250 that’s good for a tank up to 400 gallons. I plan to feed once in the morning, once in the later afternoon. Do you foresee any compatibility issues between any of my fish?

[cody6766]

Looks like you'll be okay so long as you add the fish a couple at a time. As the tank cycles, add 2-3 small ones or 1-2 larger ones a couple of weeks apart. I'm guessing you'll find that you have room for more as you go, but a conservative start is best.

Good call on knocking off the YT Damsel group. One is fine, but they'll eventually whittle down to one if you start with more. I tried that in my old 120g. 1 died, two were rehomed. I had the same luck with green chromis. I think 2 ended up surviving in my 120. As singletons, they're great for movement and color. I'd stick exclusively to YT Damsels if you go with a Damsel. Most other species are normally problematic as they age.

[Zionas]

Yeah, all sounds good.

Regarding the Heniochus Bannerfish, I know they can get to 10”, not sure if they attain those sizes but would my 6’ tank be enough to house two for the duration of their lifespans? (I think approaching 20 years)

[Uncle99]

Originally Posted by Zionas

Yeah, all sounds good.

Regarding the Heniochus Bannerfish, I know they can get to 10”, not sure if they attain those sizes but would my 6’ tank be enough to house two for the duration of their lifespans? (I think approaching 20 years)

I understood the Heniochus Bannerfish was not reef safe.
Some species are flagged by LA as “not reef safe”
Your tank is big enough, but if you getting 2, they should go in at the same time.
Tangs go last.

[Zionas]

Thanks.

As a reef safe alternative, I’ve been looking into the smaller Yellow Pyramid Butterflyfish. Heard they do best in pairs or groups. Would 2 or 3 be more suitable for my tank?

Are they beginner-friendly, hardy and disease resistant fish? Are they rare and expensive? Thanks.

[Uncle99]

Agreed they are reef safe, but, if underfed may peck at Xenia.
I think these are a better fit, not rare, likely in the $100 buck range.
Easy to care for, a bit on the shy side so make sure they have hiding spots.
This fish can be kept as a single or in groups.
Hope that helps.

[Zionas]

Thanks for the great info. I’ll keep that in mind before putting in Pulsing Xenia.

Certainly helps. Would you say a pair or a trio is better for a tank of my size? Also, are they demanding when it comes to water chemistry? Can they go early into a new tank? This is mainly to make sure they’re in before any more aggressive fish, even the likes of my Ocellaris pair.

[Uncle99]

In nature they are found in large groups.
In a 180, I like the group of three thinking.

First, your tank must be fully cycled, no ammonia, no nitrite.
Then A large water change to reduce nitrates.

Demanding of water chemistry is a bit harder to define.
Fish, different from corals, are a little more forgiving of chemistry.

With stable salinity (I use ATO), temp and nitrates under 50ppm, they will be fine.
As your tank matures, you should be able to reduce nitrates and phosphates.

When you add them at once, it’s a bit of a load on the young biological filtration system you have cycled, so, what ammonia real carefully and be ready to do partial water changes to keep nutrients in check under your biological filtration can keep up with demand

[cody6766]

Thanks for the great info. I’ll keep that in mind before putting in Pulsing Xenia.

I would hesitate to add xenia to your tank regardless of the fish. Xenia, GSP, Texas trash palys, Clove polyps, and a few others will spread like the plague if you let them. Xenia is neat, but it's best kept in a nano where you can pull out the 'infected' rock if it starts to get out of hand. If you add any of those, add them to a rock that's it's own island in the sand that you can pull out if needed.

[Uncle99]

I grow my GSP on the back glass.
I love the look and they are great at mopping up nutrients.

[cody6766]

I've seen that look cool. I think it's a pretty neat looking coral to watch blow in the flow....it's just so hard to keep off of everything else.

[Zionas]

By Islands do you guys mean pieces of rock specifically dedicated to that species of coral? If so how big should those rocks be?

Unfortunately I live in China where ATO’s aren’t really a thing yet and my LFS told me there is currently no good ATO in the Chinese market and many foreign websites don’t ship their ATOs to China or outside of the West.

[cody6766]

By Islands do you guys mean pieces of rock specifically dedicated to that species of coral? If so how big should those rocks be?

Yup. as big or small as you want. I'd recommend that you make them small enough that you can easily pull them out and trim the coral back. There's not a science to it. Just drop a rock down in the sand, glue some coral to it, watch it grow, and keep it away from your main rock structure. This is also helpful for LPS with long sweepers like torch corals or galaxia. Even if you don't have any coral that are known to become invasive, the mini-islands can make your aquascape a little more interesting.



Reef Central thread describing issues with it. Bottom line, you have to stay on top of pruning some corals
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1418119

Blue Clove Polyp infestation
[IMG]https://************.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/1/files/2018/02/sarcothelia-blue-polyp.jpg[/IMG]

apparently reef builders is problematic. The ***** in the picture link is reef builders (all one word)

[Zionas]

Your GSPs look nice.

I’ve come up with a bit of a revised list for corals:

For the softies:

1 frag GSP (Briareum spp.)

1 frag Actinodiscus Mushroom (Actinodiscus spp.)

1 frag Rhodactis Mushroom (Rhodactis mussoides / Rhodactis inchoata)

1 frag Ricordea Florida (Ricordea florida)

1 frag Clove Polyps (Clavularia spp.)

1 frag Toadstool Leather (Sarcropyhton teniuspiculatum)

1 frag Zoanthids (Zoanthus sp.)

1 frag Kenya Tree (Capnella sp.)

1 frag Fiji Yellow Leather (Sacrophyton elegans)




For LPS:

1 frag Cyphastrea (Meteor)

1 frag Tongue Coral (Polyphyllia)

1 frag Bubble Coral (Plerogyra sinuosa)

1 frag Branching Frogspawn Coral (Euphyllia paradivisa)

1 frag Branching Hammer Coral (Euphyllia paranchora)

1 frag Trumpet Coral (Caulastrea curvature) / Candy Cane Coral (Caulastrea furcata)

1 frag Duncans (Duncanopsammia)

1 frag Open Brain Coral (Trachyphyllia geoffroyi)

1 frag Crystal Brain Coral (Cynarina lacrymalis)

1 frag Maze Brain Coral (Platygyra)

1 frag Doughnut Brain Coral (Acanthastrea lordhowensis)

1 frag Green Turban Coral (Turbinaria peltata)

1 frag Pineapple Brain Coral (Blastomussa wellsi)


For the gobies I will be getting one YWG and one Goby of the Amblyeotrosis genus. The later will be a choice between the Pink Bar, Randall’s, Orange Spotted, Wheeler’s. Or maybe a YWG and a Yellow Nose Goby.


I would love to have Yellow Striped Cardinals but not sure if my LFS (or any LFS) in my city commonly has them in stock. If not I’ll have to go 6 PJ Cardinals and maybe add 2 Azure Damsels as my last 2 fish for a total of 20 planned fish.