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Unread 05/27/2008, 05:58 PM   #976
skippyreef
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thanks guys. Tommorow I am picking up the bases for the reactors I am building and hopefully will have them done next week


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Unread 05/27/2008, 08:17 PM   #977
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Thanks Steve! I found out something of interest. Seems CPVC is outlawed in California and NY..........


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Unread 05/27/2008, 08:25 PM   #978
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My tank has been close to 0 for a few weeks now (I've taken out a lot of the sulfur after it initially came down to 0). The way it's now, the denitrator is just keeping up with the tank nitrates, and the pH and Alk aren't going down quite as fast as they were with the larger amount of sulfur.
Still have to buffer every few days to keep the pH and Alk from dropping too low.


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Unread 05/27/2008, 09:22 PM   #979
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question please
my feed pump stop working that i didn't know of,,,by the time i know then all water inside reactor smell very bad,,,what should i do now,,,nitrate is 0 now,,, thanks


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Unread 05/27/2008, 09:58 PM   #980
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Quote:
Originally posted by saltydog64
dj..........thanks for your recent update. I look forward to your new observations and your restart....if and when you do restart the SR.

A couple of ????, first I think you mentioned you shut off the mj, something about it causing H2S, how did you confirm that and how do you think recirc. causes H2S ????.

Do you run or did you run your effluent thru or over any media to catch or convert H2S ???

As always thanks for all your time INVESTED on this subject

Dick
Hey Dick,

I ran my effluent right into my sump which contains only Chaeto in there and it was loving it. I never got around to dripping it into GFO as I have suggested in the past. I wanted to experiment if there would be any ill effects, but none to report so far.

I turned off the recirculation pump in order the make the unit less efficient and at the same saving some power (every little counts nowadays). My nitrates have been zero for quite a while and I was getting H2S smell all the time at the 150 ml/min effluent drip. It was more like an experiment for me since I had never tried it this way, but it worked. Sulfide smell went away and my nitrates were maintained at zero.

For me at this point, it's more of an on going experiment that helps me and others fine tune and decide what works or not.

It's always a pleasure to be able to help and I only report on what I know truly works when it comes to sulfur reactors.

djfrankie


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Unread 05/27/2008, 10:02 PM   #981
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Quote:
Originally posted by Steve 926
Use Ro/DI water to rinse it in. Tap water may kill off the seed bacteria, & cause it to cycle longer the next time .

Steve

Not only that tap water contains chlorine and chloramines in most cities and the sulfur media will absorb that and whatever else your tap water may have.

The best thing to use is RO/DI.

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Unread 05/27/2008, 10:06 PM   #982
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Quote:
Originally posted by reef_only
After one day of setting 1dps:
- NO3 from effluent shows 50ppm, which is double of NO3 of tank water 25ppm.
- PH at effluent is 7.7 vs. tank PH of 8.3.

I assume this is normal and can't wait to see if drops down to 0ppm from effluent and then the whole tank too. I had never seen my tank water below 20ppm since I owned the test kit

Looking ahead, there is something I'm not clear, the cycle process and final effluent rate depend on the level of tank NO3, is it right? if it is then the higher tank NO3 level the slower of effluent rate? and assuming the NO3 level will be going down during the denitrating, do we need to adjust the effluent rate accordingly? If the tank water never gets to 0ppm (due to loading/leaching.....) then the denitrator can be up and running and if the tank NO3 drops to 0ppm means we have to shut down the denitrator and wait for NO3 to rise again before hooking up the denitrator again?
Check out page 14 of this thread for some guidelines regarding flow and adjustments.

djfrankie


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Unread 05/27/2008, 10:36 PM   #983
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Quote:
Originally posted by khoivo1
question please
my feed pump stop working that i didn't know of,,,by the time i know then all water inside reactor smell very bad,,,what should i do now,,,nitrate is 0 now,,, thanks
You could restart it back up and let the first few gallons of effluent drip into a separate bucket which you will later discard.

djfrankie


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Unread 05/28/2008, 12:12 AM   #984
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??

that what i did,,,,so should i start dripping it like i first started the unit or let it run normally ? thanks

Quote:
Originally posted by djfrankie
You could restart it back up and let the first few gallons of effluent drip into a separate bucket which you will later discard.

djfrankie



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Unread 05/28/2008, 04:04 AM   #985
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Re: ??

Quote:
Originally posted by khoivo1
that what i did,,,,so should i start dripping it like i first started the unit or let it run normally ? thanks
That really depends on long the feed pump was off and how much bacteria actually died off from starvation.

Most likely a cycle will take place so I would recommend you start slow and adjust accordingly. Starting slow will do less harm in any case.

You can test after 24 hours and see where your effluent levels are at.

HTH,
djfrankie


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Unread 05/28/2008, 08:01 AM   #986
skippyreef
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SO you can run these after you gett he nitrate to 0.00 without the recirc in order to decrease the population of bacteria in the reactor if needed?


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Unread 05/28/2008, 10:14 AM   #987
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Quick question my friend has a Maxi jet 900 laying around. Would it make a difference if we used that on his instead of a 1200?


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Unread 05/28/2008, 10:30 AM   #988
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How are you guys measuring the media amount, Liters as in dry volume?


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Unread 05/28/2008, 02:46 PM   #989
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Re: Re: ??

i bet all bacteria is dead or atleast most of them b,c the water in side there is stinky
and now
my main tank is reading 0 now,,,so if i test after the effluent i bet its still reading 0 so what??
take the unit off line?? wait untill main tank have more nitrate and start all over again??will i be able to use all the media again??

what should i do thanks??

Quote:
Originally posted by djfrankie
That really depends on long the feed pump was off and how much bacteria actually died off from starvation.

Most likely a cycle will take place so I would recommend you start slow and adjust accordingly. Starting slow will do less harm in any case.

You can test after 24 hours and see where your effluent levels are at.

HTH,
djfrankie



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Unread 05/28/2008, 02:50 PM   #990
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I would suggest to wash and clean you reactor including the sulfur beads, then put it back online, cause it will take some time to seed the reactor again.


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Unread 05/28/2008, 04:00 PM   #991
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I jsut got started on mine today. This is the first DIY acrylic project I have attempted. I ordered the flanges from MRC because I am not that handy so I left it up to them

The bases I got are 12*9 for the nitrate reactor and 8*8 for the kalk reactor. The chambers are 6" diameter and 24" tall. I am working with Weldon four to bond the flanges and the bases and using uniseals for the plumbing. I am thinking of running a bead of weldon 16 around the base and flanges just to be safe and make sure that these are water tight. I did go around the flange several times with the applicator to make sure that it was sealed up. Eventually the number four just stayed on the outside of the joint. I also went from teh inside as well to be sure




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Unread 05/28/2008, 04:02 PM   #992
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awesome mike looks like those will be awesome.. hey... its almost time for a split!!! congrats!!!


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Unread 05/28/2008, 04:07 PM   #993
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Thanks Jarrod. I am going to score the bases with a 6" hole saw I have and then use a dremel with a router bit to make them the right width to seat the tubing in. I will feel better if it is actually in a joint of sorts and then sealed. I think it will be more durable that way too with more material around the tubing.


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Unread 05/28/2008, 04:59 PM   #994
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Here they are on the bases (not attached yet - I think I can get that doen by Monday-but not rushing anything). I like the position of the Nitrate reactor (on the longer base) fro pump placement.




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Unread 05/28/2008, 05:29 PM   #995
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looks really good. how much did those tops run you from MRC ?


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Unread 05/28/2008, 05:38 PM   #996
skippyreef
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I think it was 95.00 for both but I will have to double check. They are worth it though

What are those Zooanthids in you Avatar BTW? They look cool.


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Unread 05/28/2008, 06:28 PM   #997
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Looks great Skippy. You have more nerve than me. I had MRC glue the flanges to 4 inch acrylic tube, also 24 inches tall. I wil still have to drill and tap it. Cost 159 shipped. While I was waiting, I used my Koralin 1502 calcium reactor temporarily and I have to say these things work great! Started at 80 ppm one week ago and with only 3 days of cycling, my effluent was nitrate 0, nitrites 0 and pH 7.6 approx. My tank now a week into it is down to 30 ppm (approx 130 gallons of water in the system) and I've ramped up the effluent to a fast drip just short of a steady stream. You will love this. Thanks to DJ Frankie for all the time, effort and giving us the info and knowledge to put this technique to use. Good Luck Skippy.


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Unread 05/28/2008, 06:54 PM   #998
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I have a question on amount of media by weight per gallon of aquarium water. I have been reading some thread formulas to tryand fine tune my media amount but I'm confused. (Probably me) I saw this posted on page 39. 2.1 Lt = 71 oz. / 16 = 4.43 lbs. Liters is volume which converts to volume ounces (liquid) not weight ounces right?


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Unread 05/28/2008, 07:02 PM   #999
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I think that a one liter weighs 2.2 pounds. I think it is the same conversion as Kilograms to Pounds. I need about 5 pounds for my tank volume.

The whole glue thing was a lot easier than I thought but I think it is because I had the applicator and took time to do a little homework on DIY pages for acrylic projects. I am going to work on this some more this coming week.


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Unread 05/28/2008, 07:02 PM   #1000
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This thread was automatically split due to performance issues. You can find the rest of the thread here: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...readid=1400576


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