600gal (96x48x30) - Page 20

cbui2 · 08/03/2007, 08:43 PM

thats a very large split you have there Marc

melev · 08/03/2007, 08:44 PM

Agreed. Tonight soon enough?

Just kidding, I need to get all my supplies.

NexDog · 08/03/2007, 08:49 PM

How do you fix something like that?

melev · 08/03/2007, 08:51 PM

As soon as I know, I'll post all the details. My thinking is to clean the area very well (the underside) and then glue a block of glass over that intersection and let it cure. I may do both front corners at the same time, even though only one is the problem. The rear corners are mainly overflows, so it would be tough to fix them the same way. And maybe the overflows will help strengthen those corners.

NexDog · 08/03/2007, 08:53 PM

Good luck with that. Is acrylic less susceptible to this kind of seam problem? Getting me worried now.

spazz · 08/03/2007, 08:54 PM

hey melve can you post a pic of the whole top of your tank. i want to see how they installed the rear cross brace with the overflows.

cbui2 · 08/03/2007, 08:55 PM

gorilla glue or frag gel

, i would start to fabricate metal angle line around the entire perimeter and with powder coating for the time.

spazz · 08/03/2007, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by NexDog
Good luck with that. Is acrylic less susceptible to this kind of seam problem? Getting me worried now.

acrylic is solvent cemented together where glass uses silicone. there totaly different in there propertys. usually when acrylic is ready to give way it will slowly split and then the last little bit gives way fast. if you inspect your seams and there clear and no spots in them thay you should be fine. most of the time acrylic tanks fail for 2 reasons. first is the builder used too thin of acrylic and it bowed out so bad that the stress on the seam caused it to rip apart or they didnt get the seams bubble free and the bubbles cause faults to happen in the seams. if you have bubble free seams and you cant see any bow inthe front of the tank that your tank should be just fine.

NexDog · 08/03/2007, 09:07 PM

Good to hear. Mine is 3/4" acrylic built by Envision. Think it's pretty much bullet-proof.

spazz · 08/03/2007, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by NexDog
Good to hear. Mine is 3/4" acrylic built by Envision. Think it's pretty much bullet-proof.

you wont have any problems with an envision tank. there very well built tanks.

jnarowe · 08/03/2007, 09:20 PM

Hey Marc, what about taping off the underside and filling the gap with Weld-On 40?

spazz · 08/03/2007, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jnarowe
Hey Marc, what about taping off the underside and filling the gap with Weld-On 40?

the tank is glass not acrylic. weldon 40 wont work.

jnarowe · 08/03/2007, 09:36 PM

you mean it won't stick to the glass? I guess it would be more complicated than needed anyways. I just love Weld-On 40!!

melev · 08/03/2007, 09:47 PM

Rear of tank with overflows.

Front of tank.

The eurobracing is made of 3/4" thick glass that is 3" wide.

spazz · 08/03/2007, 10:10 PM

mark what is the outer decrotive edge made from? it looks like a black plastic brace like all glass or oceanic uses. is that what it is like? or is that something you added later?

melev · 08/03/2007, 10:11 PM

It is some type of trim, and it is plastic. It is very thin, and originally I thought it might be metal. It came with the tank, top and bottom.

RonBuck · 08/04/2007, 05:29 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by clekchau
didn't ao mess up on sanjay's big tank also?

No,

AO didn't mess up Sanjay's tank. AO drove down to his place and replaced a scratched pane that the cause was never determined.

nyvp · 08/04/2007, 07:01 AM

I agree that the corners dont look as nice but they do make it alot stronger
I have these on all four corners top and bottom.

\

Good luck with the tank. That's the worst nightmare we all have.

.

invincible569 · 08/04/2007, 08:15 AM

On AGE tanks, they use spacers to fill in the silicone. That way, the glass doesnt meet the other glass and lessens the bond. Not sure if that's used for the bracing.

CaveManNOhio · 08/07/2007, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by asnatlas
I only have the eurobracing...

I would recommend siliconing some extra "blocks" of glass to the bottom of your eurobracing at the corners to overlap the seams if its the same as mine, I would check with AO and other tank builders before doing so, but I can only see it helping as it would give you more silicone/surface area to help hold everything together...

See the pic below to get an idea of what I am talking about...

I meant to ask this before, was that tank shipped with 2x4's wedged inside of it like that(first picture with guy leaning on tank) or did you guys put those in when you moved it to the basement?

Cause that couldn't be good for a tank IMO.

CaveManNOhio · 08/07/2007, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by asnatlas
I only have the eurobracing...

I would recommend siliconing some extra "blocks" of glass to the bottom of your eurobracing at the corners to overlap the seams if its the same as mine, I would check with AO and other tank builders before doing so, but I can only see it helping as it would give you more silicone/surface area to help hold everything together...

See the pic below to get an idea of what I am talking about...

I meant to ask this before, was that tank shipped with 2x4's wedged inside of it like that(first picture with guy leaning on tank) or did you guys put those in when you moved it to the basement?

Cause that couldn't be good for a tank IMO.

asnatlas · 08/07/2007, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by CaveManNOhio
I meant to ask this before, was that tank shipped with 2x4's wedged inside of it like that(first picture with guy leaning on tank) or did you guys put those in when you moved it to the basement?

Cause that couldn't be good for a tank IMO.

Yes those are 2x4x and the ones against the glass were wrapped in bubble wrap before being placed into the tank... I don't think "wedged" would be the word to use because they were not that tight in there... They were just there for added support to get the tank into the basement as the tank was placed into a panio skid board and lowered into the basement... They were only in there for a few hrs...

kamico · 08/08/2007, 12:59 PM

why do you "cook" your live rook? isnt that bad for the life in it? can someone explain this process to me, i thought you just put it in your tank???

bond007069 · 08/08/2007, 02:45 PM

cause it tasted better cooked

melev · 08/08/2007, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by kamico
why do you "cook" your live rook? isnt that bad for the life in it? can someone explain this process to me, i thought you just put it in your tank???

Try this thread:
http://www.dfwmas.org/Forums/viewtop...=109759#109759

08/03/2007, 08:43 PM	#476
cbui2 Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: New Orleans, LA Posts: 2,517	thats a very large split you have there Marc __________________ Bart ********************* Current Tank Info: 600gal 96L x 48W x 30H 1"cell cast w/tons of equipments

08/03/2007, 08:49 PM	#478
NexDog Snail Killer Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Kyushu, Japan Posts: 4,804	How do you fix something like that? __________________ Laurence Flynn 340g In-Wall Envision Tank and 150g Sump. Current Tank Info: Deltec 902, PFO hood with 3x400w Radium 20k and 4x96w PC's. Hammerhead closed loop - and 2 x Tunze 6105 (and Vortech still sucks).

08/03/2007, 08:53 PM	#480
NexDog Snail Killer Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Kyushu, Japan Posts: 4,804	Good luck with that. Is acrylic less susceptible to this kind of seam problem? Getting me worried now. __________________ Laurence Flynn 340g In-Wall Envision Tank and 150g Sump. Current Tank Info: Deltec 902, PFO hood with 3x400w Radium 20k and 4x96w PC's. Hammerhead closed loop - and 2 x Tunze 6105 (and Vortech still sucks).

08/03/2007, 08:55 PM	#482
cbui2 Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: New Orleans, LA Posts: 2,517	gorilla glue or frag gel , i would start to fabricate metal angle line around the entire perimeter and with powder coating for the time. __________________ Bart ********************* Current Tank Info: 600gal 96L x 48W x 30H 1"cell cast w/tons of equipments

08/03/2007, 09:07 PM	#484
NexDog Snail Killer Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Kyushu, Japan Posts: 4,804	Good to hear. Mine is 3/4" acrylic built by Envision. Think it's pretty much bullet-proof. __________________ Laurence Flynn 340g In-Wall Envision Tank and 150g Sump. Current Tank Info: Deltec 902, PFO hood with 3x400w Radium 20k and 4x96w PC's. Hammerhead closed loop - and 2 x Tunze 6105 (and Vortech still sucks).

08/03/2007, 08:44 PM	#477
melev Moved On Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Ft Worth, Tx Posts: 43,217	Agreed. Tonight soon enough? Just kidding, I need to get all my supplies.

08/03/2007, 08:51 PM	#479
melev Moved On Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Ft Worth, Tx Posts: 43,217	As soon as I know, I'll post all the details. My thinking is to clean the area very well (the underside) and then glue a block of glass over that intersection and let it cure. I may do both front corners at the same time, even though only one is the problem. The rear corners are mainly overflows, so it would be tough to fix them the same way. And maybe the overflows will help strengthen those corners.

08/03/2007, 08:54 PM	#481
spazz Awaiting Email Confirmation Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 2,285	hey melve can you post a pic of the whole top of your tank. i want to see how they installed the rear cross brace with the overflows.

08/03/2007, 09:20 PM	#486
jnarowe Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Poulsbo, WA Posts: 14,710	Hey Marc, what about taping off the underside and filling the gap with Weld-On 40? __________________ Jonathan--Recovering Tankaholic. Current Tank Info: 70g fresh planted

08/03/2007, 09:36 PM	#488
jnarowe Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Poulsbo, WA Posts: 14,710	you mean it won't stick to the glass? I guess it would be more complicated than needed anyways. I just love Weld-On 40!! __________________ Jonathan--Recovering Tankaholic. Current Tank Info: 70g fresh planted

08/03/2007, 09:47 PM	#489
melev Moved On Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Ft Worth, Tx Posts: 43,217	Rear of tank with overflows. Front of tank. The eurobracing is made of 3/4" thick glass that is 3" wide.

08/03/2007, 10:10 PM	#490
spazz Awaiting Email Confirmation Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 2,285	mark what is the outer decrotive edge made from? it looks like a black plastic brace like all glass or oceanic uses. is that what it is like? or is that something you added later?

08/03/2007, 10:11 PM	#491
melev Moved On Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Ft Worth, Tx Posts: 43,217	It is some type of trim, and it is plastic. It is very thin, and originally I thought it might be metal. It came with the tank, top and bottom.

08/04/2007, 07:01 AM	#493
nyvp Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Hollywood Florida Posts: 3,633	I agree that the corners dont look as nice but they do make it alot stronger I have these on all four corners top and bottom. \ Good luck with the tank. That's the worst nightmare we all have. .

08/04/2007, 08:15 AM	#494
invincible569 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 5,715	On AGE tanks, they use spacers to fill in the silicone. That way, the glass doesnt meet the other glass and lessens the bond. Not sure if that's used for the bracing.

08/08/2007, 12:59 PM	#498
kamico Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Daytona Beach, Florida Posts: 44	why do you "cook" your live rook? isnt that bad for the life in it? can someone explain this process to me, i thought you just put it in your tank??? __________________ Kevin Current Tank Info: 55gal Freshwater

08/08/2007, 02:45 PM	#499
bond007069 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,193	cause it tasted better cooked