Analyze my 220 stand

[hellssephiroth]

Hey everyone,

Could you please look at my stand I plan on making for my 220 and let me know if you think it will be safe to hold the weight please? It is mostly 2x4's and it has 2x6's for in between the top and bottom frame parts.

[danferd2002]

You want to move each corner 2x6 in towards the center 1.5". Then add 4 more 2 on each side to form an L in each corner. You want to make sure the joint fall in the middle of a 2x6 not in line with the edge if that make sense. Also you could replace all the 2x6 with 2x4 to save some weight and a little room. You could also do a single vertical 2x4 in the center front and back if you wanted to save more weight.

[hellssephiroth]

Weight isn't a big deal. Its going in the basement. I plan on building a bar around it in the long run

[hellssephiroth]

I might have to build the sump into the stand I am thinking..... Only problem is if I want to get it out I will have to remove some of the stand to get it out That was my reasoning for not L'ing the corners.

[hellssephiroth]

Hmm If I shift in the corner 2x6's and put 2x4's in the newly added space to make the L. How bad would it be to put 2x3's in to make the L so that I could get the sump in and out if I have to? The sump is 18" wide that needs to fit.

[danferd2002]

Should be fine. As long as your supporting those joints at each end. Is it a glass tank? Are you planning on covering the top?

[hellssephiroth]

I will throw a sheet of plywood on the top. Glass tank.

[davocean]

I would prefer L shape 2x4 corners and vertical brace under the side rails as well as front, and you could eliminate some of the bulk in the center by just having one vertical.

The way you have drawn looks like 2x6 verts in center and 2x4 top horizontal rail, I'd reverse that or go single 2x6 center but definitely 2x6 top horizontal rails

[hellssephiroth]

Oh ya, now that I look at it I think I will redraw it. I wish there was an easy way to get my sump in there. Maybe I just take the chance of never having to take it out and just build it into it. My sump is 18x36.

[danferd2002]

Originally Posted by hellssephiroth

Oh ya, now that I look at it I think I will redraw it. I wish there was an easy way to get my sump in there. Maybe I just take the chance of never having to take it out and just build it into it. My sump is 18x36.

I have a 18 x 48 sump under my 180 and with a single center support I can get it out the front. Double doors on each side of the center support.

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[danferd2002]

Here is a better picture. Rear supports are arranged in a way to allow the sump to stick out in between and come out the front.

IMG_20170318_143555.jpg

[davocean]

Originally Posted by hellssephiroth

Oh ya, now that I look at it I think I will redraw it. I wish there was an easy way to get my sump in there. Maybe I just take the chance of never having to take it out and just build it into it. My sump is 18x36.

Sounds like you may be doing a 40g sump, which should fit easy, but IMO is a little small for a 220g

Keep in mind back siphon volume, usually a sump is about a 3rd of tank volume, or often as big as we can fit.

[Deep Reef]

Not to hijack but where did you get wire mold?


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[danferd2002]

Originally Posted by Deep Reef

Not to hijack but where did you get wire mold?


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McMaster Carr. Grainger and automation direct has it also.

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[Deep Reef]

Thanks


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[Lsufan]

I agree with everything Dave said. I would use a 2 by 6 top frame & use a single 2 by 6 for the center support. U would be surprised how much that extra 3” on the inside of the stand will give u.

Also, why don’t u just make the frame 25 to 25 1/2”. Then when u use the 2 by 4 to L the corners u would still have 18 to 18 1/2” between the supports to be able to slide the sump in & out from the end of the stand. As long as u center the tank it will still be sitting on the frame itself. It just won’t be sitting flush with the outside of the frame. If the tank is 24” & u make the frame 25 1/2” then the tank would still sit 3/4” onto the frame in the front & back. Usually when u use all 2 by 4 for the legs u would place them where u have the 2 by 6, flush with the end of the stand so it actually caps the 2 by 4 to make the L. Being u are using 2 by 6 for the legs I think u will be fine shifting them over 1.5” & letting the 2 by 4 for the L to cap the 2 by 6. That will gain u 3” on the end for access.

[hellssephiroth]

Ya the sump is a trigger ruby 36E. I basically bought a guy out of all his equipment as he was moving for a pretty good price. Seeing as I was moving I wanted to upgrade my tank anyways and go larger. It does seem odd that it is so small....... but it worked for him? I am questioning it though. The good thing is is that the whole tank will be on battery backup which eases my mind a little bit....

[davocean]

I personally would never rely solely on that, My own sump must have that volume space handled, and I'd rather have a DIY that does over a pretty one that does not if those were my options.
Personally I'd sell that one and buy one sized properly.

[Deep Reef]

Originally Posted by hellssephiroth

Ya the sump is a trigger ruby 36E. I basically bought a guy out of all his equipment as he was moving for a pretty good price. Seeing as I was moving I wanted to upgrade my tank anyways and go larger. It does seem odd that it is so small....... but it worked for him? I am questioning it though. The good thing is is that the whole tank will be on battery backup which eases my mind a little bit....

I emailed trigger systems when I was shopping for my sump and confirmed the volume withe skimmer level set at it’s highest point. They provided the info which allowed me to purchase the correct model.


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[hellssephiroth]

I just pulled the trigger on a Bashsea 60"...... I don't want to take the chance of not having enough sump room. I should be able to build the stand as beefy as i want seeing it is 15" wide. Hopefully one of these weekends I will have time to build it finally

[don_chuwish]

That original drawing looks insanely strong. The trick will be getting all that put together and have it be perfectly square, plumb, and the top FLAT.

[hellssephiroth]

So here is what I ended up with. Still need to add plywood to the top and bottom. Any concerns?

[Deep Reef]

Looks great and strong enough


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[don_chuwish]

Very nice - couple of 2x4 'joists' between the 2x6 front & back beams wouldn't hurt. Just make sure they're dead flush so the plywood top is perfectly flat.
Are the back & sides getting plywood skin too? The only real weak point I see right now is protection against racking side to side or front to back. Nice efficient design though.

[Deep Reef]

+1 on adding 1 or 2 2x4’s at middle of stand top and bottom to keep the long sides from bending apart


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