Centropyge bispinosa

[Fiish]

Hello everyone, as many of us here in the forum I am also an angel fish fan, last Thursday 26 at night I received a coral beauty angel from my lfs, I acclimate the fish normally in the quarantine tank. The fish began to feed the next day from early, continued like this all day and Saturday too, but yesterday Sunday morning simply refused to try food. I have read a lot about angels maintenance and I have 3 points that I think influenced the refusal of coral beauty to feed after 2 days of eating pretty well:

1.The fish measures approximately 2 1/2 ", it's almost reaching its maximum size, it's possible that its metabolism is no longer the same as a juvenile fish, and the fish's organism is asking for time to assimilate all the food that it was granted for 48 hours (the fish was fed yesterday Sunday night).

2.I don't think that the refusal of the fish began with the quality of the water, however, I change 10% of the water after not seeing it eat and wait until at night to try again with food.

3.Sometimes angels that are already established in reef tanks or in fowlr tanks, refuse to feed for one or two days and then return to feed normally.

After changing 10% of water to the quarantine tank (20 gal), let the fish rest all day, and feed normally since last night, I hope that some expert will add some more information to the points that I just write, I am feeding the fish with mysis, cyclops, and dry food.pellet

[Michael Hoaster]

I'm no angel expert (or sick fish expert), but with any new fish not eating, it is smart to assume something is wrong, rather than come up with reasons that everything is fine. It very well could be fine, but you don't want to wait around and do nothing because most illnesses advance quickly.

Observe the fish thoroughly for long enough to note any symptoms. Research the web for ailments suggested by the symptoms, and come up with a treatment plan. Get the treatment started as soon as possible.

It's a pretty safe bet that pretty much ALL new fish have some kind of ailment these days. So many of us have prophylactic (preventative) treatments we perform on all new fish. A key part of your research on each fish you're considering buying, should be to know what are the most likely ailments it can get. That way you can have the meds or treatment plan ready to go, on the first day.

I hope this is helpful. Good luck!

[Fiish]

Michael, thanks. In the appearance aspect the only anomaly that the fish shows is a small tear of the dorsal fin, perhaps this tear was made by an aggressive fish that it found during its way after the collection, this is a large and fat fish, and today it has come out to eat very well, the only thing I have noticed is that little comes out of hiding, however when granting the food comes out quickly to take the food in the water column.

[Fiish]

For a week, CB angelfish is feeding vigorously and at least 4 or 5 times a day. This fish is a perfect swimmer and continues to heal its finned tears

[Fiish]

After 36 days in the quarantine tank, my Coral Beauty angelfish is showing strange behavior. He has only been interested in frozen food since he arrived, but this fish already has 3 days without feeding well, just try a couple of snacks and the food passes around without showing interest. Since this fish has always eaten enough, and now it is shown in this way, the quality in the water is very good, and the food is the same as until 3 days ago this fish devoured. What do you think this behavior is due to? I need help, hopefully John Copps see this.

[Fiish]

The fish turns 5 days without feeding, I suspect internal parasites.

[ThRoewer]

Is the fish still alive?
Dwarf angels need a good amount of algae in their diet or they may get digestion issues. Algae flakes could be used in quarantine, but an algae overgrown rock would be better.

[Fiish]

I regret the late response, the fish died after about 10 days without feeding, everything was fast, one night he was eating vigorously and the next morning the fish lost absolutely all appetite, and the appetite never came back, I tried to get prazipro and never I got it, there were no medications available to treat internal parasites in my LFS, the only thing I could do was add metronidazole to the tank, perform a water change the next day and 12 hours later the fish woke up dead.
Something important I want to add is that I always had a rock with algae in the tank, but I never saw him grazing like a dwarf angel normally would, he loved mysis shrimp and ate only that.

[OrionN]

I think it was water condition. The QT likely have minimal to no ability to process waste, 10% change every few days likely not enough. Did you check the water for ammonia or just assume that it was OK after 10% water change?
Parasites do not kill that quickly. Fish with parasites eat a lot but not gain the weight it should for the amount it eat. Counter productive for the parasite to kill the fish quickly, thus evolution won't allow this to happen.
This fish is not any where near maximum size and did not died of old age.
Presumably, this fish did not have any visible evidence of disease, so not kill by velvet or ich or....
Many may think this fish may died of Cyanide poison, possible, but IMO there is no evidence of this.
If I was in your shoes, I would focus on water condition and change that.
Sorry I was not able to help. I saw this thread too late.

[Fiish]

Originally Posted by OrionN

I think it was water condition. The QT likely have minimal to no ability to process waste, 10% change every few days likely not enough. Did you check the water for ammonia or just assume that it was OK after 10% water change?
Parasites do not kill that quickly. Fish with parasites eat a lot but not gain the weight it should for the amount it eat. Counter productive for the parasite to kill the fish quickly, thus evolution won't allow this to happen.
This fish is not any where near maximum size and did not died of old age.
Presumably, this fish did not have any visible evidence of disease, so not kill by velvet or ich or....
Many may think this fish may died of Cyanide poison, possible, but IMO there is no evidence of this.
If I was in your shoes, I would focus on water condition and change that.
Sorry I was not able to help. I saw this thread too late.

Don't worry man, thanks for your answer, I changed 25% of the water every 6 or 7 days, I did not use an ammonia test, unfortunately its refusal to feed was fast, I assumed that they were internal parasites because the fish gradually lost weight, it was a fat fish and it was close to 10 cm. I don't remember where I read that metronidazole alters the chemistry of water and can restart the cycling of the tank, is this true? If so, that may have given the grace shot to my coral beauty angelfish. I plan to keep a tank with angelfishes, I've learned a lot about angels from copps, and Ted's great tank (humaguy here on RC). What can you recommend me to quarantine next time?

[OrionN]

Metronidazole is an antibiotic that will wipe out a lot of the bacterial needed for ammonia conversion to nitrite and to nitrates.
Using antibiotic in your tank, QT or DT will massively degrade your tank ability to process ammonia. I think if you used antibiotic, and not test for ammonia, this was what kill your fish. Changing 25% of the water every week is not anywhere near enough, IMO, especially in a tank with the biological filtration capacity wipe out by antibiotic.

[Fiish]

I didn't add metronidazole from the beginning of the quarantine, I used it a couple of days before the fish died, and apparently I already have the reason of her dead. Can you give me recommendations for quarantining angels in the future ?, considering my intention in my tank.

[OrionN]

I don't QT my fish in the sense of most reefers, namely copps and humaguy. I have a QT system, it is a 40 gal breeder full reef with a lot of fauna and flora in it. I don't QT and treat for Ich. I just add fish with ich to my system and the problem never spread to my other fish, it just died out after a few weeks. Other than ich, I only treat any problem that I see and diagnose. Fish stay in my QT system so they can get use to captivity and able to eat and get healthy in peace.
Once they are gaining weight, and eat well, I release them into my DT. This system have a lot of live food, is particularly useful in get hard to keep species to captivity, like Regal angels, Leopard wrasses.


I don't QT my fish in sterile QT tanks. You are going to have to ask other people for advice regarding this topic.

[Fiish]

Originally Posted by OrionN

I don't QT my fish in the sense of most reefers, namely copps and humaguy. I have a QT system, it is a 40 gal breeder full reef with a lot of fauna and flora in it. I don't QT and treat for Ich. I just add fish with ich to my system and the problem never spread to my other fish, it just died out after a few weeks. Other than ich, I only treat any problem that I see and diagnose. Fish stay in my QT system so they can get use to captivity and able to eat and get healthy in peace.
Once they are gaining weight, and eat well, I release them into my DT. This system have a lot of live food, is particularly useful in get hard to keep species to captivity, like Regal angels, Leopard wrasses.


I don't QT my fish in sterile QT tanks. You are going to have to ask other people for advice regarding this topic.

I appreciate your answers, next time I will only have medications available in case something happens, I'm not a guy who likes to medicate fish if there are no signs of any disease. My plan is to quarantine the fish, pass them to the main tank cautiously (in the safety of a grid divider), and after a few days, release them with the other angels; the whole process can take a few weeks, but it's what I've learned and I know it's worth it.