Persistent Nitrites

[tramboneplayer5]

My tank has been running for 5 months, and the nitrites have recently begun to creep up. They are now at 0.25 ppm. Nothing has died. Also, nothing else has changed. Ammonia is undetectable, Nitrates are at 5 ppm, Ph is 8, KH is 8.6 dKh, Ca is 410 ppm, and SG is 1.024. Nitrates have been going back and forth between 2.5 and 5 ppm, mostly depending on when I test relative to a water change. They have been in this range continuously since early February. The phosphates have been undetectable since I started using GFO in March. All other numbers are nearly constant. I use Salifert test kits.

It is a 55 gallon tank, contains 2" sand, 70 lbs live rock, 1 yellow tang, 1 atlantic blue tang, 1 bullet goby, 2 clown fish, 2 cleaner shrimp, 10 Mexican turbo snails.

Filtration is a Hydor slim-skim protein skimmer, Fluval canister filter with Matrix bio-media, Chemi-pure, 50 g of GFO, and a couple filter pads. Lighting is the Marineland "reef-capable" LED. The temperature is a constant 78º using two Cobalt Neo-Therm 100W heaters. The heaters are really nice.

Why are nitrites coming up now, after having been at 0 ppm for several months? I am feeding once a day, alternating between small amounts of flake and frozen food (Rod's Food - original).

[alexander_ktn]

I would not worry, nitrites aren't as toxic in marine tanks as they are in freshwater tanks and such small fluctuations can happen even in a tank that has been set up for a while.

I would observe it and see if it self-corrects over the next few weeks.
If it stays that way you could look into ozone as a support for your current filtration.

[jaynigz]

Nitrites at .25 is relatively low. When it gets to 2.5-5 then you need to worry but I see that you have small amounts of nitrates. Just leave it be. With new tanks, you might get mini cycles. Just monitor consistently.

[Pluedke1]

I added an algae turf scrubber to mine and water stays perfect. Try a Refugium or macro algae if it gets to high but as states above .25 isn't horrible.

[tramboneplayer5]

Thank you for the help. I have read that saltwater fish can actually tolerate a relatively high nitrite level, but more often I read that ammonia and nitrites need to be at 0 ppm or bad things happen.

I will monitor the levels and hope that they stabilize. I am also going to switch from the original Rod's Food to the Fish Only Rod's Food, since Rod says "We have removed the coral foods that are too small for the average fish to eat." Maybe the rotting "coral food" was adding to the nitrites. Regardless, there's no sense in feeding corals that aren't there.

Also, I have been reading about bio-pellets and their ability to help with nitrates. There seems to be plenty of controversy regarding pellet use, but if it reduces nitrates, would it reduce nitrites as well?

Thanks again for the advice.

[MrTuskfish]

The studies that show that nitrite PROBABLY aren't a big deal and it takes a long time for new info to become established.

BTW, I hope you have plans for those two tangs. A 55 isn't big enough (long term) for either one, much less both. Cramped quarters= aggression.

[MHG]

look at all the tanks on reefkeepings Tank Of The Month list. Many of them run between 2-5ppm of nitrates. the rest run at zero or undetectable. I can tell you that my SPS would not grow until I got my nitrates up...

[kurt_n]

Seems odd to see *any* nitrites in a 5 month old tank. Unless you just added livestock. When was the last time you added a fish, and which one was it?

While I agree with everyone else's comments about the nitrite levels, I just find it strange you have any at all. Is your test kit still good, or has it expired? I'd lean toward a bad/compromised test kit if you haven't added livestock within the last month or so.

[TimeConsumer]

Originally Posted by kurt_n

Is your test kit still good, or has it expired? I'd lean toward a bad/compromised test kit if you haven't added livestock within the last month or so.

I agree, it's probably a testing error. If you are really concerned I would cross-check the reading with another brand kit (salifert is always good). But honestly I would just ignore it, I haven't tested ammonia or nitrite since I finished my tanks cycle.

[tramboneplayer5]

TimeConsumer and kurt_n, I have been using Salifert test kits. The Nitrite kit says it expires October, 2015, so it should be just fine. The yellow tang was added April 18, and there was a test about a week later that came up with 0 nitrites. I did a water change and tested again on April 29 and also had zero or possibly 0.01 ppm nitrites - it was hard to tell. I was about to do a water change on the 6th and tested on the 5th and that was when the nitrites were up to 0.25 ppm. I did another water change and fed less, and the nitrites are back down to 0.05 ppm. The nitrates have been constant at 2.5-5 ppm throughout. At any rate, I think it is going to be okay. The fish look healthy, which I guess is the important part. Thanks for the help.

MrTuskfish, the plan for those two tangs is: http://www.deepseaaquatics.net/index...model-140.html I realize that it is not exactly 6 feet, but 5 feet and 140 gallons is the biggest I could possibly fit in the house without a divorce. They're both small at this point, and the tank should be here in about a week. The next question is how to transition from the current tank to the new one.

Thanks

[Rustafar]

I had nitrates at 35-40 ppm in my 55 gal, Built a small hang on refugium and added Chaeto
and now been 5-10 ppm . So Chaeto does work. wouldn't hurt.

[FTDelta]

Want to know how and why you're having trouble with nitrites? Ditch your canister filter. They're known for being nitrite factories.

[tramboneplayer5]

I've never heard of canister filters as nitrite factories, but it doesn't surprise me, especially given my situation. I added the small in-tank protein skimmer a few weeks before the high nitrite reading, which is part of the reason I was so surprised. I thought I was doing everything right (except for the tang police). The new tank is going to have lots more room and a proper skimmer. Do you know anyone that has used the Avast Marine CS-2 "Black Pearl" skimmer? I was wondering if it was worth the premium over the CS-1 DIY kit.

[brandon429]

No nitrites here. API.

[brandon429]

Post pics I'm curious to see the skimmer. That's a fair load of fish for that size tank

[brandon429]

Prime ammonia neutralizer will cause false nitrite readings in legit kits, makes you wonder what else will as well.

Don't you feel much better knowing your tank is fine now. Post pics I bet its a good start. Unless you have a fish die, you won't get ammonia ever again either. Ammonia and nitrite dont have to be tested for in an average tank
Dont allow detritus to buildup anywhere and know the location of your fish and dont dose antibiotics.
You won't have true issues with ammonia and nitrite in an average tank.

[tatuaje08]

Originally Posted by tramboneplayer5

I've never heard of canister filters as nitrite factories, but it doesn't surprise me, especially given my situation. I added the small in-tank protein skimmer a few weeks before the high nitrite reading, which is part of the reason I was so surprised. I thought I was doing everything right (except for the tang police). The new tank is going to have lots more room and a proper skimmer. Do you know anyone that has used the Avast Marine CS-2 "Black Pearl" skimmer? I was wondering if it was worth the premium over the CS-1 DIY kit.

Some people think they are nitrAte factories, but in reality they don't create nitrates at all. So 'factory' is not the correct word to use. The problem lies in the filter media itself. You have to clean it out religiously. Same thing with bio balls.

[tramboneplayer5]

This is a picture of the whole tank:

[tramboneplayer5]

You can see the two tangs and the two clowns. There's two cleaner shrimp and a goby as well. Today the nitrites were back to zero. I have pretty much everything for the new tank except the tank. It will be another week or two before they ship it. Looking at the new sump full of gear is driving me crazy.

[tramboneplayer5]

The goby is by the yellow tang. The antennae of the shrimp are visible behind the big rock to the left of the Hydor Slim-Skim, which doesn't do much in this tank. I'm thinking of taking the skimmer out.

[tramboneplayer5]

New sump with heaters, Avast Marine media reactors and kalkstirrer, syncra silent 4 return pump, and some union ball valves. Still need a skimmer and, of course, a tank.

[MrTuskfish]

I think there are several posts on this thread confusing nitrItes with nitrAtes.

[tramboneplayer5]

Yes, the problem was with nitrites, with an "I." NO2. Not nitrates. Almost all tanks have some nitrAtes, but an established tank should not have nitrites, as far as I know. This is why I was concerned. The nitrates spiked during the initial cycle and then have been steady at 2.5-5ppm the entire time I had this tank. As far as I know, this is normal and I am not worried about this.

The nitrites keep dropping to zero and then show up in small amounts at seemingly random intervals. When looking at my records there is a loose correlation between adding a fish and a nitrite reading, but there are times when I add a fish, then get a zero reading, and then later get detectable nitrites. Yesterday the nitrites were zero, and the fish look healthy and nothing strange is growing on the rocks, so I am not too worried right now. I would still like to know what might have caused the nitrite spikes so that I can prevent it from happening again.

[MrTuskfish]

Nitrite is the product of certain types of aerobic bacteria eating (for lack of a better word) ammonia. . Another type of aerobic bacteria then converts the nitrite to nitrate. Nitrite spikes are just the result of the nitrite eating bacteria taking a little longer to reach the level required to do their job. Both types of aerobic bacteria multiply incredibly fast when food is available for them.

There has been a lot of well-documented material showing nitrite is really harmless to marine fish. Assuming nitrite doesn't just keep climbing, I wouldn't worry about it.

Another very common possibility, which would make all my drivel unnecessary, is that your nitrite test kit is bad. Most water test kits are not good beyond a year and some are just useless from day one.