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08/05/2017, 07:22 PM | #1 |
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The pH was low, now high. So what now?
I posted this thread about a situation I encountered a few months ago. Once I got the carbonate and borate levels into a reasonable balance by dosing NsOH, the pH went back up into a much more tolerable range for the critters. Since then, the pH has been very slowly but steadily rising. Most days it would peak above 4.3, and I would add a little CO2 to bring the pH down a little. Hardness is steady at 10, and salinity at 1.24. Ammonia is a bare trace (below 0.25), and Nitrate and Nitrate at or near 0. I can't measure phosphates at the moment, because the reference sheet has disappeared, but prior to it going missing, the Phosphates were zero. Algae is pretty well in check, especially Filamentous Algae and Cyanobacteria. I keep a few small balls of Chato in the tank and it is growing, but not growing wild. It has been a week since the last water change of 5g (100g tank).
Yesterday, I noticed my little Engineer Goby seemed to be breathing hard and seeking the surface. Today the Goby is clearly dying, and the mushroom has bleached overnight. One of the Featherduster worms has shed its crown an is lying half exposed out of its sheath. I have three small colonies of button polyps that have suddenly begun to migrate off their bases, and the Sea Apple, who has been happily ensconced right underneath a flow pump with its tentacles stretched up into the stream for many weeks is now moving about the tank, although it does not look particularly stressed. The rest of the inverts and fish don't seem too badly affected. The pH was 5.21. I added a healthy dose of CO2 to bring it down to 8.45. The Goby and the aforementioned inverts remained severely stressed. So what now? |
08/05/2017, 07:27 PM | #2 |
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Co2 lowers your pH why are you lowering pH when it should be going up?
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08/05/2017, 07:29 PM | #3 |
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I think you mean 8.43 and 8.52? Your numbers above don't make sense
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08/05/2017, 07:57 PM | #4 |
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I agree that those numbers don't make sense.
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08/06/2017, 03:22 PM | #5 |
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'Sorry. That was a typo, and I don't have permissions to edit my posts.. The pH was 8.52. I dosed with CO2 to get it to 8.45. I didn't go any further than that, because shock could potentially cause as much damage as high pH. Through the night the pH dropped to something below 8.3. Right now it is 8.31. Why the pH rose eventually to 8.52 I have no idea.
I have added nothing to the water the last few weeks other than RO water with a hardness of 1 to maintain the water level and SG, occasional small doses of CO2 in water with a hardness of 11 to keep the pH under 8.4, and 5g water changes every week with artificial seawater at SG 1.24 and hardness of 11. All the livestock seemed very healthy with good appetites, including the goby the worm, and the corals, until the day before yesterday. The worm, which was hanging limply out of its tube, has withdrawn itself. I do not know if it is alive or dead. The corals seem in better shape. Their tentacles are well extended. I do not know about the Goby. I don't see a corpse, but he could well be dead in one of them many hiding places in the tank. He mostly keeps company with three other Gobies - two Bar Gobies and a Watchman - under an old piece of coral. The rest of the fish are all more mobile today, and the Sea Apple has returned to his old spot below the pump. And yes, I am keeping a very close eye on him. I know what the members of his genus can do. Indeed, it was the first thing I considered. |
08/06/2017, 03:48 PM | #6 |
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pH rises due to photosynthesis that consumes CO2. It can also rise as fresh atmospheric air (lower concentration of CO2) is added or injected.
My advice is to stop watching pH. Measure your Alkalinity, then Calcium, then Magnesium. Alkalinity is THE critical variable imo for a reef tank. pH is a measure of aeration imo. If you're getting fresh air and injecting it into the skimmer, that's really it.
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08/06/2017, 03:59 PM | #7 |
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^ This. Forget ph, generally. Get your alk to 8.3 and your mg to 1350.
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Sk8r Salinity 1.024-6; alkalinity 8.3-9.3 on KH scale; calcium 420; magnesium 1300, temp 78-80, nitrate .2. Ammonia 0. No filters: lps tank. Alk and cal won't rise if mg is low. Current Tank Info: 105g AquaVim wedge, yellow tang, sailfin blenny,royal gramma, ocellaris clown pair, yellow watchman, 100 microceriths, 25 tiny hermits, a 4" conch, 1" nassarius, recovering from 2 year hiatus with daily water change of 10%. |
08/06/2017, 09:15 PM | #8 | ||
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Quote:
As an example, Alcohols are generally miscible covalent molecules, and as such have no primary effect on pH. In the presence of Alcohols, however, certain bacteria and some yeasts will break the alcohol down into a Carboxylic acid (such as Acetic acid) and some hydroxyl or methyl group, depending on the specific Alcohol. The result will be a decrease in pH. Some macro-Algae store significant amounts of strong acids - even sulfuric acid - in their tissues. The decay of such plants can cause the pH to drop precipitously. On the other side of the equation, some plants store large amounts of strong bases in their tissues. They have the ability to raise the pH a great deal if they release these into the environment. Many creatures (including corals, sponges, snails, marine worms and jellyfish) store rather large amounts of formic acid in their tissues. Upon release, this will also raise the pH. Had I done that in a strict sense, I would have lost quite a bit of livestock, possibly even all of it. Stable at 10, before during and after this second event. During the prior event, with a precipitous fall of pH which stressed literally everything in the tank and killed off a fair amount, the hardness was above 12. I'll get some additional kits tomorrow, and replace my reef master reference, but in the meantime, please explain exactly what process could have caused either Ca or Mg to deviate precipitously in less than 12 hours to the point livestock was dying, and then was restored again in less than 12 hours with nothing but the addition of CO2. That has been said before with no authority. Despite claims to the contrary, my tank suffered a fatal drop in pH causing widespready morbidity and significant mortality in an environment with a dKH greater than 12. Now it has experienced an additional precipitous increase in pH with no change in Carbonate hardness. (Again not meaning to be overly pedantic, but the "alkalinity" of any aqueous solution in equilibrium is PRECISELY equal to the KSP of water minus the acidity of the aqueous solution. More rigorously, the alkalinity of any stable aqueous solution is given by: pH + pOH = 14 where ph is -10log of the molar concentration of H+ ions - acidity - and pOH - alkalinity - is -10Log of the molar concentration of OH- ions. In neutral water, regardless of what acids or bases are present, the number of H+ ions (typically H3O+) is equal to the number of OH- ions, each of which is specifically 5.012 moles/liter.) No, pH is a measure of the concentration of H+ ions in aqueous solution, period, and it is not in any way a matter of opinion. If pure H2O is infused with a large amount of normal room air, the pH will ordinarily rise, because ordinary room air has more O2 than CO2. The water I used to dose the tank the last few weeks always dropped the pH, because it is saturated at 5 or 6 atmospheres of pure CO2. Note during these episodes, the aeration of the tank never changed at all. The main source of room aeration is the skimmer, which has been operating normally at the same throughput for months. The secondary source is the wet-dry filter, whose throughput has also not changed significantly. Quote:
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08/06/2017, 09:28 PM | #9 |
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Note: one minor correction. During the first even, I did add an air stone to the sump in an attempt to increase the pH. It was removed when it had no discernible effect.
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08/06/2017, 09:46 PM | #10 |
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Ditto with the advice already given. For the most part, I ignore PH. In my last house, When I noticed it was low, I plumbed in outside air for the skimmer. That helped a bit. Then I installed a whole house HRV to get fresher air into the house. That helped *a lot*.
The is pretty much the extent of it. Oh, and in my new house, I installed an HRV right away. Dennis
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08/07/2017, 05:46 AM | #11 |
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Unless your tank is so different from every other reef tank, the advice to stop measuring pH is good. Unless you had an entire filtration system (or life) fail and die all at once, the release of acids or bases to impact pH to the degree discussed doesn't happen in reef tanks.
You state absolute definitions but ignore the fact that in reef tanks, the scenarios you are positioning don't happen because the total cumulative source of these acids and bases are negligible or sequestered, not released. So when we say CO2 is the dominant controller of pH, that's because the impact of other elements is minimal in a reef. This assumes that you have a reef made of salt water using RODI and a known synthetic salt to natural sea water salinity. If you choose to make yours with other elements, or accidentally drop a bucket of muriatic acid or borax into it, then the assumptions fail to hold and you're not running a normal reef tank. Alkalinity's importance is not an opinion. It's the result of many chemists, and hobbyists through years of personal experience and remarkable success who have given example after example of its impact. Personally, I've found that keeping alkalinity stable will keep everything else in balance (in my tank). I've even experimented with salinity, letting it drop to 1.018, and corals lived as long as Alk was good. I've raised and lowered the temp from 68 to 84 ... no deaths. But wiggle Alkalinity just a bit over a short period of time and I had massive death. When your Alk hit 12, up from 10 in 12 hours without external input, that should have alerted you that something was very wrong. Alkalinity is constantly being depleted in a normal reef tank unless you're actively adding it back in. That should have been a call to action to bring your Alk down slowly. As far as precipitation, I used to suffer from that until I realized the incredible power of Mg. Mg basically interferes with abiotic precipitation so that there's an abundance of Alk and Ca without making a snowstorm of chalk. I keep Mg over 1600 and never had another snowstorm. Even with Ca ~ 600 and Alk ~ 8.5. Look - everyone who replies to you is actually trying to help. I sense your frustration and I've been there too. There are times when it seems that something is happening in your tank that isn't like anyone else's- and maybe it is. But the truth is that it's a rare event that defies all precedence without wiping out a tank. Not impossible, but rare. So if you believe that your tank's chemistry is departed from all others, let's look at that. Did you have a massive die off in a biological filter? Did you have deep sand beds that got disturbed? Just trying to help
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08/07/2017, 12:51 PM | #12 |
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As I stated in your other thread, your tank probably underwent a precipitation event, which can cause a number of problems, including a massive drop in alkalinity.
pH at 8.5 is perfectly safe. I personally would ignore it. People have overdosed various supplements into tanks and run the pH higher than that without any effects on the animals. If the alkalinity of the tank is in the 7-11 dKH range, then a pH of 8.5 probably indicates either that a high-pH alkalinity supplement has been added, or that photosynthesis is driving the pH up. Of course, making sure that the testing equipment is accurate. I've forgotten where we stand on that. If 8.5 is too high for your safety zone, I would use a lower-pH alkalinity supplement, as appropriate, or try adding more aeration to the system. It's possible in theory that the air around the tank is becoming depleted in carbon dioxide, but I'm not sure how realistic that is. People have reported tanks that have enough photosynthesis that they needed to dose carbon dioxide. Your tank might be getting into that zone. In that case, a pH monitor or two controlling carbon dioxide might be safe enough to solve the problem.
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08/07/2017, 01:27 PM | #13 |
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If the tank has an oversized scrubber or is housed in a greenhouse with lots of plants, it could deplete CO2 during light hours.
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08/19/2017, 04:49 AM | #14 |
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Current metrics:
Temp - 77F pH - 8.41 (8.52 before dosing with 500ml Co2 + H2O) SG - 1.024 ppm/dKH - 143/8 PO4 - 0 NO3 - 10 ppm NO2 - 0 NH3-NH4 - 0.1 ppm Ca - 300 ppm Mg - 1040 ppm |
08/19/2017, 04:52 AM | #15 | |||||||||||||||
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The daily pH variation with no intervention ranges from around 8.25 prior to the lights coming on to 8.55 before the lights go out. If I leave the pH above 8.45 for more than a couple of hours, several of the corals bleach, and it takes days of me keeping the pH below 8.45 with fairly steady dosing of CO2 for them to recover. The Zoanthids have all apparently died, although they were quite happy before the pH began peaking above 5.0 every day. Take a look at the enclosed photo. That is simply *NOT* a happy coral, but it has looked worse, and all I have to do to get it to heal is to keep after the pH, keeping it below 8.45 for several days in a row for it to recover. To do so, I do nothing but add CO2. I could to try lowering the dKH, but I am somewhat hesitant to do so, as the rising pH has been accompanied by a falling dKH. If someone can explain to me what is causing this counter-intuitive response, then I will be much more willing to try something. Quote:
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That is precisely why I originally posted the other thread. Going through this forum, I came across a number of posts that strongly suggested problems such as I had were in fact encountered by other members of this board, yet when they posted their issues, they met with much of the same blank assumptions, potentially incorrect diagnoses, and in at least some cases bad advice, not to mention derision and disdain, just as I did. Let me hasten to say I am not suggesting you were ever derisive or disdainful. I don't recall ever seeing your name next to anything of the sort. Nonetheless, both other people and myself have been the target of just such posts. Quote:
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The advice I should have been given - and upon which I landed after I stopped an thought for a few minutes - was to add NaOH. That one thing slowly and more or less steadily alleviated the issue for several months. What the problem is now, I am not quite sure. The carbonate hardness has actually gone down a little in the last few weeks, but the pH is climbing. Quote:
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"Yawn...... " Even some of the posts that are not nearly as sarcastic still fail to be helpful. The statement, "Chasing PH is a fools errand!!!", isn't helpful. It says, in effect, "You are doing it wrong", without bothering to submit what would constitute "Doing it right", let alone explaining why. For myself, I don't really care. I wasn't seeking advice when I posted the former thread. I was posting a narrative about a past event that demonstrated some similar or perhaps even identical events posted here were met with inappropriate responses, and show these folks were neither lunatic nor stupid. To that end, I rather rest my case. My main frustration is not that, by a wide margin. My frustrations are these: 1. People are either not reading what I wrote carefully enough, or else I am not writing clearly enough. Whichever is the case, it means little or nothing very useful in context is exposed as the thread continues. 2. People are making assumptions with no supporting assertions with a result identical to #1. 3. People are making invalid assumptions, inferences, and deductions. Quote:
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Of course, some people do have very ordinary issues or questions, but those are certainly not the interesting cases. Quote:
Do they have a common root cause? Possibly. The main point here is both effects are contrary to the common wisdom embedded here. I don't think so, other than the algae. Had that happened, I would expect spikes in Ammonia or Nitrites. I would also expect there to be maladies evident in the fauna that were not so clearly and quickly mitigated by the addition of nothing other than NaOH or CO2. No. My sand bed (Aragonite) is only 2", and I mostly let the clean-up crew keep it groomed. Every few weeks, I do run a vacuum through it, but I had not done so within 2 weeks of either event. Yes, you are. Thank you. Meanwhile I would like to point out asking questions is the right way to go about it. I learned many decades ago the right way to fix a problem is not to make pronouncements or to provide diagnoses. The best way is to keep asking questions until one asks all the right ones. |
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08/19/2017, 05:47 AM | #16 | |||||||||
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2. If that were the case, then my replacing more than 50% of the water with water that had a hardness of 11 would have significantly impacted the overall hardness, and thus the pH. Quote:
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I did do a partial water change a few hours ago. We'll see how that plays out. Well, of course. Assuming there is a reasonable amount of flora in the tank, that will always be the case. Pre-dawn pH levels are around 8.23. They don't climb above 8.45 until around noon. Quote:
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I doubt it would help, but I will give it a try. It's easy enough. Quote:
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08/19/2017, 04:53 PM | #17 |
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I've been reading this thread from the start....we've come up with every plausible explanation that could cause your problem....I think we're all stumped !!
I would however raise your mag up from 1050 to at least 1250 but I doubt that's your problem |
08/19/2017, 06:05 PM | #18 | ||
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No matter what, of course, I will continue to investigate this new issue until it is resolved. In the meantime, I just have to figure a way keep the CO2 up on a more continual basis. Quote:
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08/19/2017, 10:34 PM | #19 |
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If I were in your shoes:
I'd increase Mg to 1600. I'd get an air CO2 monitor (~$100) I'd get a second scientific pH probe I'd get a second Alk test kit I'd collect data: pH, CO2, salinity, temp, Mg, Ca, Alk every 3 hours for as many days as you can The additional kits and probes are to validate your measurements. This sounds extreme but when I was trying to understand what was happening in my tank, that's what I did... Get data
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08/20/2017, 04:36 PM | #20 |
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Is your cal still at 300 ?....if so, that's way low, I'd bring that up too !
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08/21/2017, 07:56 AM | #21 |
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I would suggest that you quit messing with your tank and let it stabilize. Do some water changes with a commercially available salt mix. Don't add anything else for a while and see what happens.
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