Multiple check valves

[Sleepingtiger]

I have a 700g system with a Reeflo Hammerhead. Currently the output from the Hammerhead is 1.5" pvc going to a Home Depot check valve. From there it gets split three way into a 3/4" pvc and another check valve. I am not happy with the amount of flow. I feel the Home depot check valves design causes to much head loss. I just ordered a BRS 1.5" $30 check valve to replace the Home depot check valve.

Do you all think that is enough? Can I go ahead and remove the check valves on the 3/4" pvc as well? I am terrified of 50 gallons of water dumping on my hardwood floors.

[Vinny Kreyling]

The sump should be made to hold water from a shut down.
Check out Melev's Reef for a reverse check valve set up to prevent drain downs.

[mcgyvr]

Check valves as you are aware are a restriction and often prone to failure...
You didn't specify which exact check valve you got .. some are better than others if you must have one..

Personally I would suggest you modify your system to completely eliminate the need for any check valves (if possible)...
Often times anti-sipon holes or other methods can be utilized but this depends on the specific routing of your return pipe and how it enters the tank and where it terminates in the tank.
Are your returns "over the top" of the tank or do you have bulkheads on the tank where the returns bring water back in or something else..

[Sleepingtiger]

Originally Posted by mcgyvr

Check valves as you are aware are a restriction and often prone to failure...
You didn't specify which exact check valve you got .. some are better than others if you must have one..

Personally I would suggest you modify your system to completely eliminate the need for any check valves (if possible)...
Often times anti-sipon holes or other methods can be utilized but this depends on the specific routing of your return pipe and how it enters the tank and where it terminates in the tank.
Are your returns "over the top" of the tank or do you have bulkheads on the tank where the returns bring water back in or something else..

The returns are bulkheads that are 5" below the waterline. The sump I have is 150g, but most of that is already used in the different sections of the sump. I think I have about a 75g capacity before it overflows the sump.

The check valve I got from brs is the true union check valve.

[slief]

Originally Posted by Sleepingtiger

The returns are bulkheads that are 5" below the waterline. The sump I have is 150g, but most of that is already used in the different sections of the sump. I think I have about a 75g capacity before it overflows the sump.

The check valve I got from brs is the true union check valve.

As said above, I would ditch the check valves. You can either reroute the returns over the top of the tank and cab the bulkheads off or add some PVC fittings like elbows to the bulkheads so you can raise the return line level. You could even use 3/4" Loc-Line even though that will create some friction losses. It's still a better option than any check valve.

Having the returns up high right below the surface of the water is important for a couple reasons. Obviously drain back in a power outage is one of them but surface agitation for gas exchange is another that is very important as that should be the main source of dissolved oxygen in the system.

[Sleepingtiger]

Originally Posted by slief

As said above, I would ditch the check valves. You can either reroute the returns over the top of the tank and cab the bulkheads off or add some PVC fittings like elbows to the bulkheads so you can raise the return line level. You could even use 3/4" Loc-Line even though that will create some friction losses. It's still a better option than any check valve.

Having the returns up high right below the surface of the water is important for a couple reasons. Obviously drain back in a power outage is one of them but surface agitation for gas exchange is another that is very important as that should be the main source of dissolved oxygen in the system.

That will require I break down the aquarium and drain the tank. The aquarium stands 7' tall, 12' long 30" deep. and its up against the wall. Any service on the overflow will require I climb on top of the tank and get in. Trying to avoid that route at all cost.

[slief]

Originally Posted by Sleepingtiger

That will require I break down the aquarium and drain the tank. The aquarium stands 7' tall, 12' long 30" deep. and its up against the wall. Any service on the overflow will require I climb on top of the tank and get in. Trying to avoid that route at all cost.

Not sure of how the tank and returns are setup inside the tank but you might be able plug the return lines at the bulkheads from inside the tank using PVC pipe and caps or threaded PVC plugs. I’ve used this method to close off closed loop plumbing from inside the tank in order to eliminate it. Then glue the lines shut with PVC pipe caps under the tank. If you coudl do that and route new return lines behind the tank or up through the wall and over the top, that would be ideal. Or just add some PVC pipe to the return bulkheads inside the tank to raise the outputs up to the surface. It’s not if those check valves fails but instead when. Been there done that. I came home to 500 gallons of water on my floor and running down the driveway after a check valve failed during a power outage. This was a LONG time ago and I learned a valuable lesson at the time. Thank god the floors in my house were tile as it could have been much worse.