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Unread 02/03/2016, 08:38 PM   #51
Brian Crook
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scubadan206 View Post
I should have thought about using my router to cut out the openings in my tank wall and top.
I used my circular saw for the window opening and cut out the pieces for the top bracing individually with my table saw.
I cut 20 individual pieces that I reassembled and screwed together.
I was off 1/16 inch on one piece at the end. I guess I got lucky.
Maybe next time I build a tank like this [smaller] I will use your method instead.

Daniel.
The router definitely worked out well so I would recommend it. A circular saw with a nice blade would have worked just as well, I'm sure, it just would have required a little more precision with that initial plunge cut. However taking your time to setup and clamp down guides makes all the difference.

I used my circular saw with a Diablo finishing blade to make all the external cuts (cutting down the plywood from 48" wide to 42.5" wide).


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Unread 02/06/2016, 11:14 AM   #52
Brian Crook
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I've started pouring and brushing on the epoxy. I did not pigment the epoxy while I was applying the fiberglass, and have since added the carbon black pigment for the outer layers. Due to the 8' ceilings in my basement, this aquarium is simply too tall to stand up long ways, which means that I cannot pour the epoxy on to either end. Instead I'll be applying several thick brushed on layers, and re-brush each layer once the epoxy begins to thicken so that it does not run down to the bottom.

The resin and hardener mix at a 2:1 ratio, and so far have been pretty easy to apply, albeit a little messy. I've been using a hair dryer to help remove the unavoidable microbubbles. This process is going to be tedious, and will take quite a long time as I need to allow one face or edge to cure before rotating the aquarium.






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Unread 02/06/2016, 01:15 PM   #53
scubadan206
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Do you think a single layer of wood on the top brace will be sufficient?
I did a double layer of wood. It more than doubles the strength and gives a shelf to put your lids on.
Daniel.


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Unread 02/06/2016, 01:50 PM   #54
Brian Crook
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scubadan206 View Post
Do you think a single layer of wood on the top brace will be sufficient?
I did a double layer of wood. It more than doubles the strength and gives a shelf to put your lids on.
Daniel.
Yeah I suspect it will provide more than enough strength and support. I won't be using any lids on this tank. Keep in mind that the two 3" cross-braces connect a 4" euro-brace around the perimeter, and I'll be pouring plastic filets into the upper edges as well.

Granted I have no way of being 100% certain, but I feel like I am satisfactorily over-designing this tank.

I'll be spending a lot of time with the wet-test phase of this build too (step-wise approach for filling the tank, recording several deflection measurements, etc...). If I don't feel comfortable at any stage of that I'll back-out and repair whatever the problem is (or just throw in the towel and change my hobby).


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Unread 02/06/2016, 05:01 PM   #55
dave.m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Crook
and I'll be pouring plastic filets into the upper edges as well.
Could you expand on this a bit, please? I hope you document it well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Crook
or just throw in the towel and change my hobby
Ha! Yeah, sure, I believe that. Totally.

Dave.M


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Unread 02/06/2016, 10:26 PM   #56
druzzelle
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is there a site that shows calculations for materials tolerances, requirements etc.. this is my first time seeing a full plywood build of this size and its really amazing to me.. I guess the geek in me just has to know all the specifics lol


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Unread 02/06/2016, 10:52 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by dave.m View Post
Could you expand on this a bit, please? I hope you document it well.

Dave.M
I've been taking lots of pictures, and intend to share all the ones where it doesn't look like a lumber yard and chemical plant threw up in my basement.

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is there a site that shows calculations for materials tolerances, requirements etc.. this is my first time seeing a full plywood build of this size and its really amazing to me.. I guess the geek in me just has to know all the specifics lol
Glad to hear you're enjoying the build! Like many things in this hobby, the experience of others seems to be the best place to start. The Plywood Section of Finger Lakes Reef is a goldmine of information if you're interested in reading more.

http://fingerlakesreef.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=13

As for material tolerances and attributes, probably some engineering and material science textbooks would be the best place to start. I can tell you that seeing the tank already, in its unfinished state, the last thing I'm worried about is deflection or the strength of the structure. This thing is rock solid. At this point I am more concerned about the logistics of properly securing and sealing the glass.


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Unread 02/07/2016, 03:52 AM   #58
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cool... i'll make that a part of my routine reef reading...


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Unread 02/09/2016, 06:56 PM   #59
Brian Crook
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The epoxy is well underway, but there's still quite a bit left to do until I think it will be ready for the glass. It takes about 16 to 24 hours for one side or edge to cure well enough to be rotated, so this is a lengthy process. It's also messy. Very, very messy. I've gone through dozens of pairs of latex gloves so far, and most of the time the measuring cups can only be used once or twice.

Progress so far has been pretty good. It's looking a little rough in some areas (mostly due to the brushing), however I'm pretty confident the end result will be nice and smooth all the way around.

In between this work I've been focusing a bit more attention on the fish room. I finally did something with the plumbing rough-in and now have a proper work space and large sink for cleaning equipment. I've also applied flexible vinyl trim around the walls due to it's water resistance and the nice tight seal it creates with the floor.

I have come full circle regarding whether or not to provide a "ledge" for the glass to rest on. I am a little concerned that if the glass does create a downward pressure on the ledge, that this could result in reduced pressure on the silicone gasket, which could in-turn create a potential for leaks. Perhaps its best to stick to the basics and just load up the seal with high end silicone.














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Unread 02/10/2016, 02:50 PM   #60
McPuff
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This is some seriously impressive work. I really need to see how this turns out.


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Unread 02/10/2016, 06:06 PM   #61
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It is impressive work. I think it is cool.

I'll need to go back in case you already answered, but are you not doing anything to the outside of the tank or is sealing it not required?


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Unread 02/10/2016, 07:13 PM   #62
Brian Crook
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Originally Posted by McPuff View Post
This is some seriously impressive work. I really need to see how this turns out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by saf1 View Post
It is impressive work. I think it is cool.

I'll need to go back in case you already answered, but are you not doing anything to the outside of the tank or is sealing it not required?
Thanks! I'll be sure to keep taking photos of the various steps. Regarding the outside of the tank, I will be treating it just like the inside (pouring where able, and brushing where not able). I've decided to basically cover the entire thing in epoxy.. haha

This is not necessary and is mostly a result of having purchased so much epoxy. But the fish room could be exposed to high humidity so it will be nice reassurance that there is absolutely no wood exposed in the final product. I cannot believe how hard and "plastic-like" this stuff becomes after it has finished curing - it is really impressive. For anyone else out there that is considering a plywood aquarium, go with a solid two-part epoxy like the one from US Composites - you will not be disappointed!


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Unread 02/12/2016, 11:45 AM   #63
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Looking good Brian. Yes, people always have concerns when someone else is doing it, until they do the same and realize how strong the tank actually is with all those layers, cross braces and glass in it. You will plenty fine with strength, no doubts about that. And I've built 2 800g tanks like this


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Unread 02/12/2016, 09:41 PM   #64
Brian Crook
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Looking good Brian. Yes, people always have concerns when someone else is doing it, until they do the same and realize how strong the tank actually is with all those layers, cross braces and glass in it. You will plenty fine with strength, no doubts about that. And I've built 2 800g tanks like this
Yeah for sure. I really wasn't expecting it to be so strong! I just finished pouring my last 'edge' tonight. This weekend I'll be focusing my attention on the final bottom and back pours, overflows, and finishing up on the top and front.


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Unread 02/14/2016, 07:21 AM   #65
muttley000
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This looks great! I used CyclistMT's advice on a sump a couple years back that is 279 gallons one everything is working perfectly! I have to do my first of 2 large builds next year to experience the glass part of the project, but I have found the pour method with2 part to work flawlessly. I'm really liking the external overflows on your tank too. A couple questions, because I will have to do the same on the ends how many coats would you say you brushed on the ends and where did you get the tools for rolling and getting the glass into the corners?


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Unread 02/14/2016, 10:34 AM   #66
Brian Crook
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This looks great! I used CyclistMT's advice on a sump a couple years back that is 279 gallons one everything is working perfectly! I have to do my first of 2 large builds next year to experience the glass part of the project, but I have found the pour method with2 part to work flawlessly. I'm really liking the external overflows on your tank too. A couple questions, because I will have to do the same on the ends how many coats would you say you brushed on the ends and where did you get the tools for rolling and getting the glass into the corners?
For the sides, I brushed on and wetted out the fiberglass as the first layer. Next I brushed on a black pigmented layer. After that one cured I sanded it and brushed on another. And then another after that. I plan on doing some light sanding and brushing on one more final coat (today in fact). So that'll be 5 layers.

It's possible to brush it on "vertical" if you allow the epoxy some time to kick / begin curing. As it starts to get thicker it is less likely to run down from where you brush it as a result of its own weight. I found this technique to be very helpful when doing the sides.

All of the tools and materials were purchased from US Composites. Great experience purchasing everything from them; highly recommended.

I still need to purchase the silicone. I'll be going with the RTV 103 black silicone. I'm still deciding how to go about setting the glass - either with the tank right-side-up and using some wood to "push" the glass into place and hold it, or with the front side down and setting the glass in place and putting some weight on top of it. I have decided not to create a 'ledge' of sorts for the glass to rest on, and will instead rely on the 1-3/4" wide silicone bead.

Have you noticed any degradation of the epoxy over the past couple years of use? Nothing I have seen so far indicates this but it's always great to hear first-hand experiences.


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Unread 02/14/2016, 12:11 PM   #67
dave.m
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Did I miss the pouring of plastic fillets in the upper edges?

Dave.M


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Unread 02/14/2016, 12:25 PM   #68
Brian Crook
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Did I miss the pouring of plastic fillets in the upper edges?

Dave.M
Nope, I've been holding out on photos until this thing is done! I'm close to having the epoxy done, at which point I'll post a bunch more photos to show the edges... But basically I rotated the tank 45 degrees in every which direction and poured in my epoxy fillets. When it cures it creates a nice smooth transition from wall to wall, to help distribute the load and provide even more strength.

I can't state this enough: this epoxy is incredible stuff!


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Unread 02/14/2016, 12:45 PM   #69
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Brian, my suggestion is to lay the tank on its front and place the glass down on the silicone. WORK FAST!!!!!! Silicone dries so very quick, u will have maybe 5 mins total to do it so angle the glass first, then run your silicone, then let the glass down. You will not have time to apply, the grab the glass then set it where you want, so make sure it's in the tank first

Also one the glass is in place, I suggest running a thick bead of silicone around the perimeter of the glass edge too. This is just precautionary in case the wood isn't comple flat.


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Unread 02/14/2016, 08:54 PM   #70
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Brian I have noticed absolutely no problems with the epoxy degrading. I am planning my next project as a display using the same epoxy again, except a different color. I did white on the sump and am glad I did. I am really liking the black you used!


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Unread 02/15/2016, 11:45 AM   #71
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The epoxy is (mostly) done! I sanded down the front, top, overflows, inside back, sides, and inside bottom, and over the past few days worked on applying the final coats of epoxy. The edges turned out great, however it was virtually impossible to prevent a bit over of dripping from occurring while I was applying the final coats to the sides, so there's some visual imperfection on the edges below the sides. I had to remind myself that it doesn't matter since this part is going to be covered by substrate anyways, but it was still frustrating..

There is a tiny bit of epoxy still left to do. The batch I had made while I was working on the sides was allowed to sit a little too long, kicked very quickly, and so it started to cure as I was applying it. This caused a few blobs on the side. I left that side as-is for now and will sand it down and re-do it once it's done curing.

I tried to make the front and top "show-room quality" by popping all the microbubbles I could find with a lighter.. haha. I went through a couple lighters doing this but am very pleased with how it turned out. I'll likely be covering most of the front with trim after it's installed in the wall, and the top will only be seen from inside the fish room, but I wanted to make this thing as nice looking as I could anyways.

I ended up using about 80% of the epoxy I purchased (although there was some waste).
















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Unread 02/15/2016, 11:49 AM   #72
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And here's the rest of the photos up to current state. It's difficult to take photos of the detail work and edges because it's so dark, but I took one of the back edge and the overflow to give you an idea. The back edge is one 45 degree pour, however the reflection makes it look like it has two faces.












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Unread 02/15/2016, 04:06 PM   #73
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Looks great! I'm enjoying watching this.


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Unread 02/15/2016, 04:17 PM   #74
Alex IROC Z28
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Great work man.... I was just talking about something like that to my wife and she gave me the evil eye..... lol I wonder why!? lol.....


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Unread 02/15/2016, 04:31 PM   #75
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I didn't know you could make a tank in this manner. Here I thought you were making a shinny stand.


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