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07/02/2018, 08:49 AM | #1 |
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Is blueacro still in business?
I don't see an add to cart for any of their LED emitters and the drivers have been out of stock for a long time. Are they still even in business?
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07/02/2018, 10:00 AM | #2 |
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https://blueacro.com/acrostrip
didn't go all the way to checkout but some products "seem" to be available.. |
07/02/2018, 10:13 AM | #3 |
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07/02/2018, 06:30 PM | #4 | |
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07/02/2018, 07:28 PM | #5 | |
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https://blueacro.com/acrostar/products |
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07/03/2018, 04:34 AM | #6 | |
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In general just drive them at/close to their max rating.. Only reason to not do so is if you have insufficient cooling which can only be determined by temperature testing.. But if your cooling is up to the task then drive them at/near max and let dimming handle brightness control..
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07/03/2018, 05:45 AM | #7 |
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What are variable amp constant current supplies??? I'm guess it's variable voltage constant current?
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07/03/2018, 06:09 AM | #8 | |
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Once set it will lock at that output.. Voltage out will change till current output is met.. Power supply is a separate "topic" but needs to be constant .. |
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07/03/2018, 07:16 AM | #9 | |
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In one the output voltage is adjustable and then maintained.. In the other the output current is adjustable and then maintained..
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07/03/2018, 07:20 AM | #10 |
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Yeah I'm aware of that. I was hitting on the point that he said variable amp constant current. That statement seems a little contradictory.
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07/03/2018, 11:44 AM | #11 | |
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Its a constant current driver and the constant current level is adjustable.. Once set it maintains that set current.. But yes.. It does have a bit of a "Jumbo shrimp" ring to it
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07/03/2018, 05:54 PM | #12 | |
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So is there a rule of thumb as to what amps are best to drive them? I am thinking of a "MakersLED heat sink" w/ a temp controlled fan. I am shooting in the dark here, but is something like "drive at %75 of max amps"? I like the BlueAcro adjustable so I can't go wrong, but IDK if he is ever going to have more in stock, so might be stuck with LDD's and have to pick a fixed amperage.
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07/03/2018, 07:58 PM | #13 | |
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07/04/2018, 07:17 AM | #14 | |
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G3 drive at 1500mA E/E2/Reble drive at 1000mA Semi drive at 700mA Don't overthink it.. Problem solved..
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08/06/2018, 05:04 PM | #15 | |
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Won't be apples to apples but he could be on a break, busy, or low on stock. Pro's are out I know that.
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08/07/2018, 04:43 AM | #16 |
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I also sent Yann an email 2 weeks ago inquiring about buying more of his pucks. So far, no answer...
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Bruce Current Tank Info: 150G mixed reef (6x Blue Acro 20K Pro COB LEDs, 4x 80W T5 supplement), 150g fw discus (T5 lighting), 110G fw Angelfish (DIY LED lighting), 4 x 40 g frag tanks (DIY LED). |
08/07/2018, 11:48 PM | #17 |
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Pros have been out everytime i've looked for like the past year....
I'd settle for a good source of MCPCB that i could get made up and just buy my own emitters...
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~TimmyD “Jellyfish are 97% water or something, so how much are they doing? Just give them another 3% and make them water. It's more useful.” Karl Pilkington |
08/08/2018, 11:44 AM | #18 |
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What sort of spread are these emitters capable of?
Corey |
08/08/2018, 07:48 PM | #19 |
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Suggested by a member here to look at Nanobox 3.1 multi's. I did and they seem like a good fit. Affordable so I'll be picking up a set of four. Only issue is they are 5 channels compared to the 4 of the acro stars - not a huge deal and I have enough room on both Apex and Reef Angel.
I'll have to look at heat sinks. Those seem to run the most money oddly enough. I am looking for something that can support the array but be 48 to 50" in length. I am not a fan of the smaller heat sinks that I've been using and would rather have a continuous length. I found a few but they are about 100 bucks a pop - seems high.
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08/09/2018, 12:54 AM | #20 |
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http://ledgardener.com/find-heat-sink-cob/
It's always complicated.. $100 is pretty standard-ish for large bars.. rough calc would be 340 sq" of surface area per puck, passive cooled.. https://www.heatsinkusa.com/5-886-wi...inum-heatsink/ roughly 33 sq in per inch.. so 10" per puck.. 50" piece would passively cool 5 @ $83 plus shipping say $100 would be better anodized..but they aren't kind of an art and science atm.. https://youtu.be/iFj-FxIbCbg |
08/09/2018, 07:32 AM | #21 | |
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Maybe it's time for a collaborative open source board design?
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08/09/2018, 10:24 AM | #22 |
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Like this?
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08/09/2018, 11:49 AM | #23 |
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Something like that, but with footprints for LDD drivers to minimise the number of parts needed to be ordered/messed with. Ideally I would want something that could do two or four channels, and could work with both Luxeon and Cree types of emitters. Would be a nice and versatile option for power users and advanced builders for sure, and gets us more to the modular aspect seen in some commercial fixtures, like AI and Radion.
Ideally something like the boards Radion uses with onboard drivers would be a nice way to go, and maybe even a solution that uses the Radion optics. Could be a good thing to start a brainstorming thread to figure it all out? Maybe like the Corona from RapidLED? Just with LDD's on board instead of discrete circuitry?
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LED snob. Unapologetic Luxeon Rebel and Bridgelux Vero fanboy. Every time a fluorescent or halide fixture is scrapped, an angel gets its wings. Last edited by lingwendil; 08/09/2018 at 12:09 PM. |
08/09/2018, 12:03 PM | #24 |
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hmmm.. philosophical differences..
Never in favor of putting things near heat sources... And modular is better.. Like still annoyed I need to buy an expensive wheel assembly for my truck as opposed to just getting a new cheap bearing.. but hey, diversity is the spice of life... AND there def a lot of advantages to the idea.. Heck modular "sticks" have plenty of advantages if anyone EVER did it right.. Or didn't charge a fortune for the "luxury"... |
08/09/2018, 12:21 PM | #25 |
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Does anyone have the original gerber files for 02's board? or better yet that actual (looks like eagle?) project file?
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