DIY LEDs - The write-up - Page 8

lynxvs · 03/08/2009, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by ME2003

I will be replacing it with another circuit.
It may be based on this article.
http://www.instructables.com/id/1.5A...for-LEDs-for-/

This is a very good LED Driver and it's what I use in my design. I have 10 of these to drive 10 strings 0f 6 Rebel LEDs each. The IC is Automotive rated which means it pretty much bulletproof.

lynxvs · 03/08/2009, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by marspeed
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/...ng-system.html

found this today

Do a search here and you will find many DIY LED projects just like this one....

lynxvs · 03/08/2009, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by KKamy
Hey Keith,

I am going to be setting up a tank of similar dimensions 72x24x31. I have posed this question to Evilc66 over on nano-reef dot com. He seems to think that will not provide enough light if you are going to want clams down on the sand bed. You will need to decrease spacing between LEDs and use optics to increase PAR values lower in the tank (would be like a 400w MH equivelent).

He is going to run the numbers of how many LEDs to reach that for me, but has not gotten to it yet. Why don't you pose the same question over there and maybe he will finally run those numbers

If you look at the commerial units (Solaris) for 72" length they use
180 Leds. I really think soundwave is using way to few LEDs in his design. He needs to double what he has to get decent PAR. I also hope that people realize the light must be placed very close to the water to work without optics. I would like to see someone else take some PAR readings on this before anyone goes out and builds this they might be a little dissapointed

puckbs · 03/08/2009, 09:05 AM

This is a great thread soundwave....and you are one patient dude...lol...After reading this and looking at your design this is the first time I've ever considered LED. I think this would work great for a school AIO tank we have that is running just two 18w pcs I think. I'm gonna be doing a ton more searching and reading on my own but if anyone has any ideas or can point me in the right direction (i.e. links...) it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

warrenv · 03/08/2009, 02:20 PM

I went comercial ang bought 3 current powerbright led setups 1 in 10k and 2 50/50s and i am very happy with them. I only have a total of 12 leds over my tank (24g nano) and everything seems to be doing fine, i have some polyps in my sand bed and the tanks 19" deep. Soundwave do you think i need to add more? I have pictures in the nano thread under "pc convert to led". If you have the time check it out and let me know what you think.

ME2003 · 03/08/2009, 02:28 PM

"He seems to think that will not provide enough light if you are going to want clams down on the sand bed."

The 10 watt led may help with this issue. I am not sure if many people use these in depth calculations.

The 10 watt cool white LED with heat sink I purchased here.

http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Sure-Electronics_Components
They are also available here.
http://stores.ebay.com/led-world2007

billrob71 · 03/08/2009, 03:52 PM

Soundwave just wanted to tell ya how great that set up looks I was just talking to one of the local to me fish shop guy about a LED set up and then later ran across this thread link one our local reef club forum. I am very interested in doing something like this but seem to be pretty complicated, but after seeing and reading on this post doesn't seem to bad. I have a 180 AGA gallon reef tank and the hood I have works great but with 3 175 watt MH, 2 160 watt VHO's and 2 110 watt VHO bulbs. Draws ALOT of power and would looking for a alternative to the norm.

Please let all of us know how the corals respond to these. I'd half to make three rows for my tank to light up each section.

Thanks alot for posting this and when it comes down too how much power it draws the way I see it , it's going to draw a heck of alot less then what I have. So the difference if there is any in what is stated and what is actual is inmatterial. The facts looks like it draws alot less then anything currantly out there that is comperable so if it works better brighter and draws even half the power of a normal light were all gonna be ahead of the game.

Sorry for the long read but want to express my opinion.

Thanks Bill

Jack04 · 03/08/2009, 04:54 PM

Sound Waves, How long have you had your LED Lights up and running?

How often will you need to change the LED's.

I ask this because i know LED's last for 100,000 hours

but how long will they be sufficient for reef, any ideas?

by the way, GREAT PROJECT!!!!!

I will be making this next year when I set up a tank!

Soundwave · 03/08/2009, 06:50 PM

Quote:

I really think soundwave is using way to few LEDs in his design. He needs to double what he has to get decent PAR. I also hope that people realize the light must be placed very close to the water to work without optics. I would like to see someone else take some PAR readings on this before anyone goes out and builds this they might be a little dissapointed

lynxvs: What exactly do you consider "decent" PAR? I posted the PAR levels and, for my needs, they are more than adequate. I keep a lot of softies and a few LPS and SPS. Why would I go all out and double my LEDs and add optics? I apologize for feeling this way but you seem to be very very against the issue and you seem to say "nay" every chance you get.

Jack04: I have had them up and running for about a week. According to all the information I have read, the LEDs shouldn't need a change for at least 10 years. At about 11 years of something like 12 hours a day, they will decrease light output a bit.

I'm glad to see that this thread has reached other forums!

Doahh · 03/08/2009, 06:54 PM

400 1" from waters surface is Decent Par

Soundwave · 03/08/2009, 06:57 PM

The fixture hit 460 at 12" away with no water. Does that count for anything?

stugray · 03/08/2009, 07:18 PM

Soundwave,

" According to all the information I have read, the LEDs shouldn't need a change for at least 10 years."

I will bet that you will lose one LED in just a couple of years when driving them at the rated current.

With your setup, you will lose 6 LEDs and will have a little difficulty replacing one since they are glued in place.

Stu

Soundwave · 03/08/2009, 08:00 PM

I guess we won't know till it happens, Stu. I'm prepared, mentally, for this thing to stop working all together. Not that it will. It's just that with any experimental setup like this, nothing is certain.

Doahh · 03/08/2009, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Soundwave
The fixture hit 460 at 12" away with no water. Does that count for anything?

No because if it produces 400 1" below water it will put around 800 12" away with no water

lynxvs · 03/08/2009, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Soundwave
lynxvs: What exactly do you consider "decent" PAR? I posted the PAR levels and, for my needs, they are more than adequate. I keep a lot of softies and a few LPS and SPS. Why would I go all out and double my LEDs and add optics? I apologize for feeling this way but you seem to be very very against the issue and you seem to say "nay" every chance you get.

Jack04: I have had them up and running for about a week. According to all the information I have read, the LEDs shouldn't need a change for at least 10 years. At about 11 years of something like 12 hours a day, they will decrease light output a bit.

I'm glad to see that this thread has reached other forums!

Soundwave it's just constructive criticism don't take it the wrong way... I was right about the power wasn't I?

Your right if those PAR levels work for you that's what it's all about.

Can you explain the two pictures that you posted?

PC light?

PC PAR readings

Soundwave · 03/08/2009, 09:07 PM

The first picture that you have is the PC light with 4 3-watt Luxeons used for a shimmer effect. That's where it all began. The second picture is the same PC lights but taken with a higher shutter speed. I took the second picture right before switching to the LED fixture to show the difference from PC to LED. The LED picture I posted immediately after the second picture was much brighter.

PCs

LEDs

PC PAR - 260watts (same picture used for LED PAR)

LED PAR

plecosword · 03/08/2009, 09:17 PM

Bravo bravo bravo!, ive been thinking about doing this!
Ill be able to learn from your mistakes

avel · 03/08/2009, 10:08 PM

Nice lighting!

danlu_gt · 03/09/2009, 01:34 AM

Awesome write-up!

Why only drive the Royal Blue LED at 700mA instead of 1000mA like the white ones?

savichus · 03/09/2009, 02:05 AM

Very nice. Subscribed!

Mr.EK · 03/09/2009, 08:02 AM

Can you mount these LED stars on individual heat sinks?

marspeed · 03/09/2009, 09:08 AM

More good stuff to think about

http://www.luxeonstar.com/fluorescen...-leds-c-15.php

bolis03 · 03/09/2009, 09:15 AM

Would this type of LED lamp work?
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5850

JC Pollman · 03/09/2009, 01:27 PM

How good are the blue LEDs? If VHO actinics are the gold standard, and T5s are adequate when it comes to making the colors jump out at you, where would you put the blue LEDs?

The0wn4g3 · 03/09/2009, 04:46 PM

I can't say I've read all of this thread, and I hope someone hasn't already posted this, but here is a really cheap 700ma driver: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.13552
I'm building a little LED desk lamp using that driver and 8x 100ma LED's. The driver should be here by the end of the week. Can't wait to try my hand at an LED based project

Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge with us Soundwave. I know there's a lot of info here that's helped me learn about LED DIY.

03/08/2009, 09:05 AM	#179
puckbs Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Oakdale, NY Posts: 2,142	This is a great thread soundwave....and you are one patient dude...lol...After reading this and looking at your design this is the first time I've ever considered LED. I think this would work great for a school AIO tank we have that is running just two 18w pcs I think. I'm gonna be doing a ton more searching and reading on my own but if anyone has any ideas or can point me in the right direction (i.e. links...) it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks __________________ -Brad "Nemo me impune laccesit" - From Edinburgh Castle meaning "no one provokes me without punishment" (thanks to K for sparking that memory) Current Tank Info: RIP 125g :-( 20g nano, 10g sump with asm mini g, mag9.5 return with 2 hydor-flos, 150w 14k sunpod

03/08/2009, 02:28 PM	#181
ME2003 Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Maine Posts: 387	"He seems to think that will not provide enough light if you are going to want clams down on the sand bed." The 10 watt led may help with this issue. I am not sure if many people use these in depth calculations. The 10 watt cool white LED with heat sink I purchased here. http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Sure-Electronics_Components They are also available here. http://stores.ebay.com/led-world2007 __________________ "truth that comes from the gut, not books." Stephen Colbert 'Truthiness' is the word of the year -Merriam-Webster president John Morse Current Tank Info: 120g SPS 90g coral

03/08/2009, 06:54 PM	#185
Doahh Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Loomis CA Posts: 2,398	400 1" from waters surface is Decent Par __________________ -Josh Current Tank Info: 90 Gal Custom SW Reef

03/08/2009, 07:18 PM	#187
stugray Premium Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Longmont, Co Posts: 4,566	Soundwave, " According to all the information I have read, the LEDs shouldn't need a change for at least 10 years." I will bet that you will lose one LED in just a couple of years when driving them at the rated current. With your setup, you will lose 6 LEDs and will have a little difficulty replacing one since they are glued in place. Stu __________________ Some people think that I have Attention Deficit Disorder. They just dont understand that........ Hey! Look a chicken! Well, We KNOW GOD exists, but for US to exist without a GOD is preposterous….Umm wait a minute…. Sounds a bit circular to me… Current Tank Info: 125 Gal. display w/80 gal mud/caulerpa sump. Basement sump w/ LED Grow Light,Gravity fed Reeflo200 skimmer w/ ORCA Recirc, DIY calc reactor & kalk stirrer. Inline plumbed 75 Gal frag/settling tank.

03/08/2009, 09:17 PM	#192
plecosword Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Irvine, CA Posts: 76	Bravo bravo bravo!, ive been thinking about doing this! Ill be able to learn from your mistakes __________________ --Andre Current Tank Info: 120 Gallon

03/08/2009, 02:20 PM	#180
warrenv Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: lompoc california Posts: 22	I went comercial ang bought 3 current powerbright led setups 1 in 10k and 2 50/50s and i am very happy with them. I only have a total of 12 leds over my tank (24g nano) and everything seems to be doing fine, i have some polyps in my sand bed and the tanks 19" deep. Soundwave do you think i need to add more? I have pictures in the nano thread under "pc convert to led". If you have the time check it out and let me know what you think.

03/08/2009, 03:52 PM	#182
billrob71 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Newark , De Posts: 150	Soundwave just wanted to tell ya how great that set up looks I was just talking to one of the local to me fish shop guy about a LED set up and then later ran across this thread link one our local reef club forum. I am very interested in doing something like this but seem to be pretty complicated, but after seeing and reading on this post doesn't seem to bad. I have a 180 AGA gallon reef tank and the hood I have works great but with 3 175 watt MH, 2 160 watt VHO's and 2 110 watt VHO bulbs. Draws ALOT of power and would looking for a alternative to the norm. Please let all of us know how the corals respond to these. I'd half to make three rows for my tank to light up each section. Thanks alot for posting this and when it comes down too how much power it draws the way I see it , it's going to draw a heck of alot less then what I have. So the difference if there is any in what is stated and what is actual is inmatterial. The facts looks like it draws alot less then anything currantly out there that is comperable so if it works better brighter and draws even half the power of a normal light were all gonna be ahead of the game. Sorry for the long read but want to express my opinion. Thanks Bill

03/08/2009, 04:54 PM	#183
Jack04 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 420	Sound Waves, How long have you had your LED Lights up and running? How often will you need to change the LED's. I ask this because i know LED's last for 100,000 hours but how long will they be sufficient for reef, any ideas? by the way, GREAT PROJECT!!!!! I will be making this next year when I set up a tank!

03/08/2009, 06:57 PM	#186
Soundwave Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Maroa, Il Posts: 361	The fixture hit 460 at 12" away with no water. Does that count for anything?

03/08/2009, 08:00 PM	#188
Soundwave Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Maroa, Il Posts: 361	I guess we won't know till it happens, Stu. I'm prepared, mentally, for this thing to stop working all together. Not that it will. It's just that with any experimental setup like this, nothing is certain.

03/08/2009, 09:07 PM	#191
Soundwave Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Maroa, Il Posts: 361	The first picture that you have is the PC light with 4 3-watt Luxeons used for a shimmer effect. That's where it all began. The second picture is the same PC lights but taken with a higher shutter speed. I took the second picture right before switching to the LED fixture to show the difference from PC to LED. The LED picture I posted immediately after the second picture was much brighter. PCs LEDs PC PAR - 260watts (same picture used for LED PAR) LED PAR

03/08/2009, 10:08 PM	#193
avel Premium Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Washougal, Washington Posts: 58	Nice lighting!

03/09/2009, 01:34 AM	#194
danlu_gt ReeFi Lab Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 103	Awesome write-up! Why only drive the Royal Blue LED at 700mA instead of 1000mA like the white ones?

03/09/2009, 02:05 AM	#195
savichus Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Vancouver, WA Posts: 106	Very nice. Subscribed!

03/09/2009, 08:02 AM	#196
Mr.EK Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: new york Posts: 4	Can you mount these LED stars on individual heat sinks?

03/09/2009, 09:08 AM	#197
marspeed Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: williamstown NJ Posts: 713	More good stuff to think about http://www.luxeonstar.com/fluorescen...-leds-c-15.php

03/09/2009, 09:15 AM	#198
bolis03 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Posts: 9	Would this type of LED lamp work? http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5850

03/09/2009, 01:27 PM	#199
JC Pollman Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: virginia Posts: 225	How good are the blue LEDs? If VHO actinics are the gold standard, and T5s are adequate when it comes to making the colors jump out at you, where would you put the blue LEDs?

03/09/2009, 04:46 PM	#200
The0wn4g3 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Auburn, AL Posts: 1,124	I can't say I've read all of this thread, and I hope someone hasn't already posted this, but here is a really cheap 700ma driver: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.13552 I'm building a little LED desk lamp using that driver and 8x 100ma LED's. The driver should be here by the end of the week. Can't wait to try my hand at an LED based project Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge with us Soundwave. I know there's a lot of info here that's helped me learn about LED DIY. __________________ The 0ne. The 0nly. The0wn4g3. Current Tank Info: 40 gallon Rimless- 39Wx4 T5HO on Ice-Cap 660, 29gallon sump, DAS EX-2, Deltec Phosphate Reactor, Koralia 3, 50lbs LR