Seachem aquavitro salinity

[hilgert]

I've been a longtime user of RedSea Coral Pro (RSCP), particularly due to the higher levels of the Big Three (Alk, Ca and Mg) that seem to be consistent from batch to batch.

However, recently I've reviewed many threads here and other places, as well as anecdotal observations from other reefers/LFS in my area, and I've come to the conclusion that RSCP might be the issue to my ongoing small cyano problem (which I've kept in check with siphoning and water movement, and have in the past attributed to other factors than the salt).

So, I decided to give Seachem aquavitro salinity a try (why do companies like to use lowercase these days?). From Seachem's site:

salinity™ is a blend of salts specifically formulated for the reef aquarium that contains all essential major, minor, and trace components found in natural reef waters, but contains no toxic or non-essential components. Additionally, salinity™ is the most concentrated salt blend on the market. With a hydration level of <0.5% salinity™ will yield a greater volume of prepared saltwater at a salinity of 35‰ per unit of weight than any other salt mix currently on the market. salinity™ is identical to the distribution of anions and cations found in Natural Sea Water (NSW). We have compiled data from all the oceans and seas on the Earth, and have targeted the midpoint of the range for each element. We guarantee to be within ± 5% of the midpoint. For example, at a salinity of 35‰, for calcium, magnesium, and strontium, we have the following targets and ranges.

Calcium: target 422 mg/L, range 400 to 443 mg/L
Magnesium: target 1336 mg/L, range 1269 to 1403 mg/L
Strontium: target 8.4 mg/L, range 8.0 to 8.8 mg/L

Alkalinity and pH values vary widely over the Earth's oceans. salinity™ will be within the following ranges:
pH: 8.4 to 8.6
Alkalinity: 3.2 to 3.8 meq/L

They say they make this stuff in smaller batches, and each batch has a laboratory tested batch specific guaranteed analysis. Seachem also has a handy lot# lookup where you can look up the specs (using the lot# from the label on the bucket) for any particular batch. I'm not sure this is necessary, as the lot label has all the information that the lot lookup would return. I guess it would be useful if a reefer wanted to keep a history of lots, or shared a lot# with another reefer without having to shoot a picture of the label. Anyway, a nice feature in my opinion.

I did also have some communication with Seachem, and confirmed that this is a 100% synthetic salt.

Note that this salt is very anhydrous, which has a few consequences. You will use a bit less salt than you might be used to with other salts. Also, you don't want to dump it all in at once as it can get very hot locally, and that can cause several undesirable issues (including potentially some precipitation issues, although I don't claim to be an expert in this regard). It's really always best to add salt in more slowly...I take about 20 seconds to pour it in directly over my mixing pump).

I am a "testing fanatic", and I always test every batch of salt before I use it (after a few bucket-to-bucket transfers to overcome any settling during shipping). I only do tests for the Big Three, as I don't really mess around with adjusting for anything else. I also determine the SG (to make sure nothing has changed), as I have an automated saltwater mixing/addition/daily water change system so I need to know the exact ratio of salt to RODI.

While I normally only do a "quick test" for a new batch (of a salt I would typically be using), since this was a new salt for me I took salt samples from three different buckets across three different lots. All were mixed to 35ppt in one gallon of 75°F RODI (0 TDS) water, and I ran a small circulation pump for approximately 2 hours prior to testing. There was no residue on the bottom of the containers that I could observe (containers were semi-opaque).

For Alk and Ca I used RedSea and API (which I've found to be very accurate and repeatable for Alk...see HERE), and for Mg I used RedSea (I have a Salifert kit for Mg as well, but I'm not really a worrier about Mg...close is good enough for me). I ran several different tests with each kit. I am familiar with the relationship between API and RedSea according to how *I* test (much of test kit variations in hobby grade kits boils down to the "person doing the testing"), and I found that the test results seem to agree with the label on the the batches within 5% (about 10% for Mg), so "close enough" for our hobby purposes).

In other words, I think for the Big Three it could be believed (or at least *I* am confident enough to believe so) that:

• The batch label correctly states the values for the Big Three (at least within 5% of my ability to test with hobby kits).
• This salt should consistently be within the target ranges as stated above (but I always do a quick test when I open a new batch..."trust but verify".

Therefore, if you were to accept the above is true, and that you were happy with those numbers, you would not need to make adjustments for the Big Three (or, if you did, you could count on the same adjustment"ish" from batch to batch). This is a key factor for me...I don't want to have to add anything to get a salt "in balance"...I want to "mix-n-go".

While some users have reported cloudy water when mixing this salt, I have not noticed cloudiness after 15 minutes or so of mixing. I do *always* mix a set amount of salt with a set amount of RODI at room temperature (typically 75°F or so in my house), and I *never* heat my salt reservoir. I've done it this way for years with RSCP, and have very little sediment in my salt reservoir. I do keep a small Koralia pump running 24x7 in the reservoir, which is kept closed (very little air movement is possible due to the design of the reservoir). So it's probably that most stuff that would have settled is just kept in suspension by the pump.

I hope this provides some useful information to those that might be interested in trying this salt mix out.

[hilgert]

Just to be clear (pun intended), while all the values could be off (my values and Seachem values), I believe that is unlikely given that they were all close. If my values were way off from Seachem's I'd be more suspicious of my test kits (and my abilities) than of the salt (assuming the label is correct).

I realized I did not post my test values. I'll not post all the individual tests, but my "group average" for my tests, and the bucket label, are below. All of them are "ish" values, as much of test interpretation is in how the tester interprets the color changes, etc. Also, Ca and Alk tests (in our hobby kits) have fairly wide margins for interpretation.

Me:

• Alk: 9.2"ish" (converted from meq/l to dKH)
• Ca: 430"ish"
• Mg: 1225"ish"

Label (lot# 71492.00):

• Alk: 8.96 (converted from meq/l to dKH)
• Ca: 443
• Mg: 1325

Anyway, I'd certainly be interested in what other people are getting for values for the Big Three for this salt, and what kits were used.

[ReefCowboy]

I've started using RSCP when it first came out a few years ago and yes it did have some cyano issues. At some point cyano would show on tanks of many users of that salt. I believe they corrected the problem over at least a year ago since the recent batches no longer cause this problem. A good friend of mine owns a store by my house and he uses this salt on all tanks over there with no issues.
I haven't had a cyano issue for as long as I've had my current tank doing wcs with this salt every week.

Seachem salinity is also an excellent salt, although I haven't tried it in my tank.

[Spslvr]

I used to love aquavitro i still rate it as hands down the best salt ive used, but pricing and availibility in aus is not great so i now use rscp, never had cyano issues though

[dkeller_nc]

I've seen comments on this and other boards that Reef Crystals contains some organics - given that Aquarium System's description of the salt mix states that it has "metal detoxifiers" in it, which is presumably chelation agents like EDTA, I'm inclined to believe it. I and others have noted that carbon dosing seems to encourage cyano growth, so your observation may have merit - EDTA and other chelators would presumably be fairly easily oxidizable carbon sources.

One comment about the very low water content of Salinity - that's definitely not a sustainable state over the long term. Not only will the mix aggressively absorb water from the atmosphere once it's opened, HDPE/LLDPE plastic packaging has an appreciable water vapor transmission rate. So even unopened, the mix will still slowly accumulate water. And since a one-part seawater mix is inherently not chemically stable in that the calcium and alkalinity components will combine in the presence of moisture to form insoluble calcium carbonate, I'm a little skeptical that the batch-to-batch analysis that Seachem provides means all that much, at least an alkalinity value to 2 decimal places.

[hilgert]

Originally Posted by dkeller_nc

One comment about the very low water content of Salinity - that's definitely not a sustainable state over the long term. Not only will the mix aggressively absorb water from the atmosphere once it's opened, HDPE/LLDPE plastic packaging has an appreciable water vapor transmission rate. So even unopened, the mix will still slowly accumulate water. And since a one-part seawater mix is inherently not chemically stable in that the calcium and alkalinity components will combine in the presence of moisture to form insoluble calcium carbonate, I'm a little skeptical that the batch-to-batch analysis that Seachem provides means all that much, at least an alkalinity value to 2 decimal places.

Whenever I get a new bucket of salt, after I do a bucket-to-bucket mixing of the dry salt (to overcome the effects of settling), I take about half the contents and put them in smaller ziploc containers. The amount in each ziploc container exactly matches the amount of my RODI additions to my salt reservoir (I always add the exact same amount of RODI). This way I can "fill, dump and go". It also makes it easy for the wife to add when I'm travelling on business. The remaining half bucket sits until I run out of filled ziploc containers, and then I repeat the process.

This has the additional benefit of reducing moisture effects from opening/closing the bucket over time. Seems to work...never had clumping problems since I've gone to this method.

These would be the cheap disposable ziploc containers from Walmart or wherever (although I don't dispose of them...I reuse them).

[hilgert]

Update: I've not had any issues with water clarity (either in the main tank or in the salt reservoir)...the mixed salt is crystal clear when I mix it as described above. There appears to be no residue in my salt reservoir as well (but again I keep this gently continuously mixed).

I've not noticed any increase in cyano (tht I can see), and I'm beginning to think that RSCP was my issue with regard to cyano. Again, it was never a large issue for me, but I always had to do some cleanup periodically...and thus far I have not done any, and cyano is not increasing. Another few weeks should tell the tale on this...but thus far I'm not unimpressed with this salt.

[nvladik]

I started using Seachem aquavitro salinity as of this past weekend. Watching this thread very closely and will respond with any findings I have, so far one 15% WC done on my main tank. I was wondering why my mix station was running a little hot, thanks for the heat note, will mix carefully next time.

[hilgert]

Originally Posted by nvladik

I was wondering why my mix station was running a little hot, thanks for the heat note, will mix carefully next time.

Yep...it does get warm. If you listen for it, you can hear it t sizzle when you add it to water.

[hilgert]

Another update for those interested (all 4 of you).

I no longer seem to get the very thin brown coating on the sides of my salt reservoir (which always seemed to be present with RSCP). It has actually disappeared from sides that I did not even wipe down (which I only clean on the one side that I looked in to check on things).

So, I'm going to declare this my new salt...I'll be getting another bucket for standby usage when this one is empty.

[Kies1]

i am on my first bucket of this salt and so far have been very happy with it. Switched from reef crystals. Once it mixes it does get very clear. Need to add teh salt a bit slower into the mixing bucket or it does get cloudy, but once mixed good to go. I found that not letting it sit in the mixing container for more than a couple hours is best as well. If you let it sit over night readings are a little off. Weird. I ix now a couple of hours before needing to do a water change and works great. Numbers are spot on or so it appears.

[Mock]

Originally Posted by hilgert

Yep...it does get warm. If you listen for it, you can hear it t sizzle when you add it to water.

I used to use this salt but because of availability and cost I have switched to Reef Crystals too...

I also hold it very high as one of the top salts I have ever used and can hopefully switch back to it soon.

I always found the numbers to be really accurate, to the point where I never worried about water changes and alk swings with the SPS at all with no testing.

I did however experience the precipitation on the mixing barrels in 80 degree water mixing.

[hilgert]

Originally Posted by Mock

I used to use this salt but because of availability and cost I have switched to Reef Crystals too...

I can get salinity locally in Dallas for $72 for the big giant bucket (225 gallons I think). The smaller half-sized buckets are something like $40. This is about half the normal retail cost...my LFS sells both this and RSCP at (or near) his cost as sort of a loss leader. His primary business is tank maintenance, and he goes through pallets of both salinity and RSCP.

Originally Posted by Mock

I did however experience the precipitation on the mixing barrels in 80 degree water mixing.

Eesh...I could not take 80°F...I keep my house at 75-78°F. Do you heat your WC water? I never heat it and I get no precipitation.

[Mock]

Originally Posted by hilgert

Eesh...I could not take 80°F...I keep my house at 75-78°F. Do you heat your WC water? I never heat it and I get no precipitation.

Everything I do is in the garage, I have to cool my WC water with a chiller in the summer and Heat it in the winter. 80 is just where everything sits. It varies from 78-80 same as my tank usually, I try to match the temp of my tank as much as possible.

[scooter31707]

I switched from RSCP to Salinity and glad I did. I have more consistent parameters with Salinity and it's spot on every new batch of water I mix. Great salt and in my area it's actually cheaper than RSCP. I get a bucket that makes 225 gallons for $55.

[hilgert]

scooter, where do you get the big bucket for $55?

[Mock]

Originally Posted by hilgert

scooter, where do you get the big bucket for $55?

+1

[fishresponse]

Originally Posted by Kies1

i am on my first bucket of this salt and so far have been very happy with it. Switched from reef crystals. Once it mixes it does get very clear. Need to add teh salt a bit slower into the mixing bucket or it does get cloudy, but once mixed good to go. I found that not letting it sit in the mixing container for more than a couple hours is best as well. If you let it sit over night readings are a little off. Weird. I ix now a couple of hours before needing to do a water change and works great. Numbers are spot on or so it appears.

+1

Just used this salt for the first time tonight and found the water to get cloudy if you add the salt fast as well. I also found the salt to have a different smell to it. Not sure if others have found the same to be true but will see how the tank reacts over the next couple days.

[Syntax1325]

I've been using this salt for almost a year now and don't have any issues. I mix the salt slowly into my mixing bucket and turn on my heater once the water is clear, usually takes about 30-45 minutes. I perform water changes after my water reaches temp, takes longer in the winter since I make and mix water in the basement where it's cool. I'm on my 3rd bucket of salt and readings have been consistent. The water does get cloudy if left overnight. Over all I like everything about the salt besides the price.

[nvladik]

One thing I noticed with this salt is that my ORP reading went down but a decent amount after a 20% water change, which is great, couldn't get it below 400 with RC.

[Kies1]

Originally Posted by fishresponse

+1

Just used this salt for the first time tonight and found the water to get cloudy if you add the salt fast as well. I also found the salt to have a different smell to it. Not sure if others have found the same to be true but will see how the tank reacts over the next couple days.

Yes it does have an odour to it

[se64]

When I switched last month to salinity salt, I immediately noticed the smell when mixing. It is not a negative, its just highly noticed when first using! Salt is great so far, tank is looking wonderful and I am happy with my purchase.

[Kies1]

So I have been trying to lower nitrates to no avail. Currently running at 10ppm. So I checked the new salt water mix and it is showing 2-5 ppm. Funny thing is I had a little reef crystals left over from my last bucket and used that to do my last water change and it read 0. RO water reads 0. So my conclusion is this salt is already starting with some nitrates. Is that possible? Salifairt test kit used.

[bertoni]

That's possible, but I'm a bit surprised. A bit of ammonia is more common. That ammonia could be processed into nitrate over some time frame. I'd get a second opinion on the test kit. It should measure zero for distilled water, for that matter.

[Kies1]

My RO water is testing 0 prior to adding the salt and mixing it. If that is the case not too impressed right now. The last water change as I had said was wth the last little bit of reef crystals and also read 0. I know some nitrates are not a bad thing and no adverse affects on the tank but was really surprised. I pretty much do my water change 2to 3 hours after adding the salt to the mix so it has not been sitting long