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Old 12/22/2017, 08:18 PM   #26
DesertReefT4r
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alten78 View Post
It would drop unless you kept up your daily dosing...what did you think was going to happen? Are you saying that your alk consumption stopped because you added sand back? You said it yourself, if you have a high enough demand for alk and have a dosing system you wont notice alk issues...sand or not.



Im really not trying to pick on you here but adding a large CUC isn't going to resolve nutrient issues. A large CUC can certainly help control algae from said nutrients, but algae will continue to grow and come back until nutrients are better handled. Algae>Snails>Snail Poop>Nutrients back into the tank unless removed by proper maintenance.
No alk was more stable with a sand bed in my case. I also said that I did not need to dose daily at the time I did not say I did not dose. Like I said sand is a buffer to aid in alk stability and if you already dose daily and have a high demand for alk then not having a sand bed would not even be noticable.
I agree a large CUC does not solve the issue and I did not say it would. Large CUC will aid in removing pest algae as you manually remove algae and work on resolving the issue. Then you need to remove the CUC and either trade then at the LFS, sell or give them to so eone that needs them. Keeping them in the tank after the nutrient issue is resolved and all the algae is gone will lead to their death and releasing all the nutrients from the algae they consumed back into the water. I dont approve of large CUC LFS and online retailers sell you as start up packages or refresh packages. Only keep enough CUC that your tank will support.


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Tank history 29g tropical ,55g cichlid tank, 20H softy reef, 29g mixed reef, 20H brackish goby & puffer tank, 55g mixed reef, 6g Nanocube softy lps reef, 40B sps reef, 75g sps reef, 75g sps reef in bu

Current Tank Info: 75g sps reef build in the works.
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Old 03/25/2018, 10:42 AM   #27
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Well, I thought I would follow up on this thread...

I have about all of the sand out that I can get to. And it is definitely easier to vacuum up fish waste and other detritus this way.

However I believe I caused myself a bit of a problem in the process. A couple of times while I was removing sand, I stirred up a dust storm and quite a bit of debris end up on my rocks. And now I am getting what I believe is some sort of cyano/algae bloom. Especially on one rock that has always had more algae than the others. That one is pictured. I am actually considering removing that rock because it has always been a problem. I am also thinking about replacing that one and a few other rocks with some new live rock. I am not sure if that would be a concern or not but the guy at Tampa Bay Saltwater says he has people who do add fresh live rock to their tanks to help with adding new bacteria.

The good news is that my corals look great. So I am a bit unsure about how to reduce the algae without harming my corals. I am ordering a larger CUC. I am not sure beyond that.

These aren't the best pictures but here are a few...

Worst rock that shows the type of algae I am getting...



For reference, here is what that rocked looked like two years ago from TBS. All of those sponges died off and I feel like this has fueled algae growth ever since...




Corals look good and are growing:





I'll post a FTS and try for better pictures later.

Thanks for any suggestions.


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Old 03/25/2018, 03:01 PM   #28
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I would agree that the die off on that rock is the cause of algae on that rock. Remove it and replace it with a clean cured piece of rock. Its important to cure it first or you will just be adding nutrients back into the tank. Removing that rock will remive all the algae and any locked up nutrients it may release.
Increase your flow to keep the other rocks clean and having a powerhead on the bottom is a good idea as well.


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Tank history 29g tropical ,55g cichlid tank, 20H softy reef, 29g mixed reef, 20H brackish goby & puffer tank, 55g mixed reef, 6g Nanocube softy lps reef, 40B sps reef, 75g sps reef, 75g sps reef in bu

Current Tank Info: 75g sps reef build in the works.
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Old 03/25/2018, 03:43 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertReefT4r View Post
I would agree that the die off on that rock is the cause of algae on that rock. Remove it and replace it with a clean cured piece of rock. Its important to cure it first or you will just be adding nutrients back into the tank. Removing that rock will remive all the algae and any locked up nutrients it may release.
Increase your flow to keep the other rocks clean and having a powerhead on the bottom is a good idea as well.
Thanks for your suggestions! So are you saying I should avoid Live Rock? I was thinking about ordering a few pieces from Tampa Bay Saltwater but asking for rock without a lot of growth on them.

And then I have also been wondering if I should add another powerhead. Where would you add one? I actually have a couple that I am not using.

Currently I run my two MP40s at about 60% in Reef Crest Mode, one in Anti Sync.

Here are some pictures of my tank as is now just to get an idea of the rock work layout...








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Old 03/29/2018, 01:52 AM   #30
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I donít have any experience going BB, but I will say that Iím tempted sometimes. Itís not only because of detritus but more so - flow. I really wish I could crank up my power heads more and position them lower without sucking up sand or causing bare spots. I feel like I can do a good job with detritus by siphoning sand and keeping it somewhat stirred up and moved around. What I canít do is really blast the tank with flow and position my PHs wherever I want.


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Old 05/23/2019, 11:22 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by d0ughb0y View Post
I have done both. started with sand, then restarted with bare bottom.
now I just restarted and went back to sand (aragonite).
from my experience, the bare bottom only looks nice at first, in a few months, or years, it will be harder to keep it clean and in my case, after like 5 years, the bottom is just filled with crap that is ugly and impossible to clean. Mostly thick coralines and calcium build ups and lots of sand like particles (I assume this are calcium precipitate).
I would not go back to bare bottom.
Why did you not give urchins a go to control your coralin?


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Old 05/23/2019, 04:33 PM   #32
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I find bare bottom just not appealing. On top of that you seriously limit the settling space for micro organisms and pods.

I would however also not go with a deeper sand bed or fine sand in an SPS system - you simply can't crank up the flow as you would want and the sand accumulates way too much gunk.

On my current tank restart I'm trying a middle way with flat rocks and "thin" layer of coarse gravel. That way you get a more natural look and space for pods to have a refuge inside the tank. The deeper sand bed and the shrimp gobies that needed it go into one of my sump tanks.

As for urchins as coraline control, I found that they also like to mill over flat corals and small frags. The damage they caused me just wasn't worth it. I keep them now in the sump just in case I need them to re-condition (= mill off the surface layer) some rock.
If coraline is a problem it can be easier controlled by Aquilonastra sea stars (often incorrectly called Asterina by reefers). I never found them to do damage to corals and most have them in their tanks anyway.
I personally prefer the coraline though.


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Old 05/27/2019, 12:52 PM   #33
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Thanks for the recent replies. Re: Urchins, I do have one urchin and it does a pretty good job on the algae along with quite a few snails. I still have some algae issues in lower flow areas but my tank is doing pretty well bare bottom. I have to say that if I start a new tank, it will definitely be bare bottom. I do agree that a clean sand bed looks better but I was never able to maintain a sand bed in the condition that was acceptable to me. And I am certain that it contributed to excess nutrients in my tank. Here is a recent picture...




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Old 05/27/2019, 12:57 PM   #34
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i have ran a BB in the past I would never again be without sand i just dont like the look of it


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