Silent and Failsafe Overflow System - Page 5

ThrowinRoost89 · 02/13/2008, 02:56 AM

aahhh

ive only had my 120's sump running for about 2 weeks now and i have not actually checked if my emergency drain would handle the mag 12.

sooooooo, i just tried it.
i have the 2 1in emg drains T'ed to 1 and then into the sump. so i closed both of my gate valves and they handle the mag 12 no prob. i plugged the top of one emg drain with my thunb and the water level started to rise, and when i pulled my thumb out the water level went back down in a couple seconds.

but it that would only happen if both drains got plugged at the same time.

i would think you would want you EMERGENCY EMERGENCY drain as loud as possible, so you know s___ is rolling down hill quick lol

RobbyG · 02/13/2008, 08:04 AM

Count me in on any campaign to get back Bean.
Bean is a Cool breeze of logic in a world full of BS.

GuySmilie · 02/13/2008, 08:54 AM

Looks like the BeanAnimal has intentions to continue his critical, provocative, and often intelligent dialog of all things DIY. Maybe he will add a discussion forum soon. (wink-wink)

http://www.beananimal.com/about.aspx

Personally, I hope that it becomes a popular hot-spot for critical analysis and lively debate/discussion among like-minded enthusiasts. Something sorely missing in our current P.C. culture.

hyperfocal · 02/13/2008, 11:54 AM

Yeah, the signal to noise ratio has dropped dangerously low. Thanks for the link.

pescadero · 02/13/2008, 11:55 AM

thanks for the link. i miss BeAn Animal and i really would like to know if he's taken up residence on another forum, as i would follow him there. WRT hosting your own forum -- that is an awful lot of work and consumes an awful lot of bandwidth. BTDT.

miwoodar · 02/13/2008, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by hyperfocal
Yeah, the signal to noise ratio has dropped dangerously low. Thanks for the link.

Agreed.

RobbyG · 02/13/2008, 07:18 PM

I figure Mike H. will let Bean back in soon, but I think that Bean is way to big a fellow to be taught a lesson and most likely the Ban will mean that he will never participate the same way.

I really think the Mods should take a bit longer before banning A+ posters like Bean and Grim Reefer. Grim was never the same after his Ban, he just never seemed to be as enthusiastic about helping people and I fear that is what will happen with Bean if he returns.

GuySmilie · 02/13/2008, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by pescadero
thanks for the link. i miss BeAn Animal and i really would like to know if he's taken up residence on another forum, as i would follow him there. WRT hosting your own forum -- that is an awful lot of work and consumes an awful lot of bandwidth. BTDT.

I've set up several of these PHP-powered forums for clients before. There's not much work involved in doing so.....until the membership gets huge, like it is here at RC.

hyperfocal · 02/13/2008, 09:37 PM

Yeah, ironically it's the moderation that's the real work.

mushumatt · 02/18/2008, 05:28 PM

I dont know if you guys can answer this question but does it matter how close together the bulkheads are. I am building a 8' long tank and i dont really want them to be right next to eachother could they be a few feet apart?

MeuserReef · 02/18/2008, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mushumatt
I dont know if you guys can answer this question but does it matter how close together the bulkheads are. I am building a 8' long tank and i dont really want them to be right next to eachother could they be a few feet apart?

I dont think it matters so long as they are all feeding out of the same overflow box inside the tank.

faded1004 · 02/18/2008, 09:54 PM

i am going to try this on my nano setup before i implement on my 260g... i hope all works well...

jimnrose · 02/20/2008, 07:53 AM

I'm new to the hobby and starting a 125 gallon reef tank. This thread is a great idea on how to design an overflow box including a lot of work by the author to describe the detains.
In my case, access is limited to one side of the tank and I'm thinking or having the water return (400+gph) via a manifold (1 1/4" pvc pipe)above the water line. Does this make sense????

GuySmilie · 02/20/2008, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by jimnrose
I'm new to the hobby and starting a 125 gallon reef tank.

H20ENG · 02/20/2008, 10:28 AM

jimnrose,
Welcome!

Yes To have the return line above the water line is fine. Do you mean up and over the side of the tank?

I dont care for having the actual water outlet above water due to noise and splashing, which creates salt creep (buildup of salt crystals on dry surfaces).

When you put the outlet nozzle under the water, you must drill an antisiphon hole just below the water level. This way, the tank will only drain down to that level when the power goes out, or the pump stops.

You may already know this, if so great.
HTH, and let us know how your installation goes.
Chris

jimnrose · 02/20/2008, 10:57 AM

The only two options I have is to either come back into the display uner the overflow box or go over the side and come back to the water level (via fittings). I didn't like the first option because the bulkhead fitting would be very low (to the water level) and if a leak developed I would loose a lot of water, etc, plus the reefs would interfere with the return distribution pipe. Sooo, I left with coming over the top. I could add drop lines (fittings) thereby having the entry points below the water level therby avoiding the noise, splashing and salt problems. Does that make sense?
I just ordered the tank (125 gal: 72x24x17) & now plan to order the PVC fittings. It's time to spend.
Thanks for your inputs Chris.

Der_Iron_Chef · 02/28/2008, 07:50 PM

I don't know if this has already been asked (read the entire thread--several times--before), but.....will drilling the three holes compromise the structural integrity of the glass?

I have a 55G made from 3/8" glass. What are everyone's drilling recommendations?

BeanAnimal · 02/28/2008, 09:07 PM

Drilling three holes should be fine. It is a good idea to keep the holes at least 1.5 diameter apart.

Be careful, many 55 gallon tanks are reported to have tempered sides.

The only problem I see is that a 55 gallon tank is very narrow and does not allow much room for an internal overflow AND room to get light into the tank.

You may consider an internal overflow box with a very narrow profle that feeds an external overflow box and the standpipes.

jimnrose · 02/28/2008, 09:44 PM

I'm planning on drilling 2 3/4" holes thru 3/8" acrylic with only 1 3/8" spacing. I haven't done this before and the tank is still 'on order' but plan to purchase a new cutting bit. If anyone has drilled large loes thru acrylic and could please give me guidance I would appreciate it.

BeanAnimal · 02/28/2008, 10:36 PM

You may want to check with Acrylics here at RC regarding the hole spacing with acrylic. I don't see that it will be a problem. Acrylic can flex a great deal before it fails due to stress. Glass is not so forgiving and a small crack quickly becomes a large crack.

You will either want to use a router and a template or a holesaw. If you use a stnadard holesaw, you will need to cut very slowly and use a good deal of water to keep the tailings out of the kerf. If they are not removed they will melt and the saw will get stuck.

H20ENG · 02/28/2008, 11:28 PM

Also to prevent chip out on the backside of the hole, remove the holesaw just before breaking through and finish the hole from the opposite side. The pilot hole will line it up perfectly and you will have a clean cut.

If at all possible, use a router and a template made with your holesaw and some wood. A bit of double sided tape and a flush trim bit will get you a perfect hole.

You obviously cant use a router if its too close to the edge. A holesaw will work fine, just not as clean. You dont want to overheat the tank either. Cut for a bit and let it cool, or use water as Bean mentioned.

BeanAnimal · 02/29/2008, 07:41 AM

I learned the hard way... I have had a holesaw STUCK in acrylic a few times before I realized there had to be a better way.

jimnrose · 02/29/2008, 07:50 AM

Thaks for the guidance and I'll proceed with caution. I'm looking forward to installing the overflow box design that Bean described on theis thread.

BeanAnimal · 02/29/2008, 08:02 AM

Let us know how it turns out.

RV8tor · 02/29/2008, 09:29 AM

Bean
Welcome back,,,
I am going to use your overflow design but with a DIY glass-hole style overflow. I have not drilled anything yet but I have 1.5 inch bulkheads on order. my overflow will go 3/4 the length of the tank. I am using a 900 GPH return pump and my current overflows goes directly into my DIY Skimmer. The skimmer can handle this flow but, Do you think that I can continue to do directly into my skimmer with your silent overflow design? The other two standpipe will go into the sump as for the emergency and only one would go into the skimmer. The output of the overflows is under water inside my skimmer. it is a venturi skimmer just to give you an idea what I am using. I was also wondering where did you get your true union ball valve at?

02/13/2008, 02:56 AM	#101
ThrowinRoost89 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Columbia Station, OH Posts: 382	aahhh ive only had my 120's sump running for about 2 weeks now and i have not actually checked if my emergency drain would handle the mag 12. sooooooo, i just tried it. i have the 2 1in emg drains T'ed to 1 and then into the sump. so i closed both of my gate valves and they handle the mag 12 no prob. i plugged the top of one emg drain with my thunb and the water level started to rise, and when i pulled my thumb out the water level went back down in a couple seconds. but it that would only happen if both drains got plugged at the same time. i would think you would want you EMERGENCY EMERGENCY drain as loud as possible, so you know s___ is rolling down hill quick lol __________________ ~Hate What Own's You~ Current Tank Info: 120g reef...... WITH A TANG IN IT!!!! BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

02/13/2008, 08:04 AM	#102
RobbyG Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: 600 Ft From the Reef Posts: 2,099	Count me in on any campaign to get back Bean. Bean is a Cool breeze of logic in a world full of BS. __________________ The Optimist says the glass is half full, the Pessimist says it’s half empty, an engineer only see's a glass that’s twice as big as it needs to be! Current Tank Info: Insanely Automated Low Power Consumption 90 Gal Oceanic Bow System/Aquatronica Touch Controller/AQ Dosing Pump/AQT LEDS/AQ SMS/Seq Dart Pump/ASM G3/Ozotech Ozonizer/Koralin 1502/Chiller/Typhoon3 Ro/S.Squirt /Phos React/Rmt DSB

02/13/2008, 08:54 AM	#103
GuySmilie Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Land of Lincoln Posts: 943	For Those In Need Of Their Daily BeanAnimal Fix Looks like the BeanAnimal has intentions to continue his critical, provocative, and often intelligent dialog of all things DIY. Maybe he will add a discussion forum soon. (wink-wink) http://www.beananimal.com/about.aspx Personally, I hope that it becomes a popular hot-spot for critical analysis and lively debate/discussion among like-minded enthusiasts. Something sorely missing in our current P.C. culture. __________________ Guy Smilie

02/13/2008, 11:54 AM	#104
hyperfocal Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Edge of oblivion Posts: 1,708	Yeah, the signal to noise ratio has dropped dangerously low. Thanks for the link. __________________ "Froth at the top, dregs at bottom, but the middle excellent." -- Voltaire Current Tank Info: getting back into the hobby

02/13/2008, 07:18 PM	#107
RobbyG Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: 600 Ft From the Reef Posts: 2,099	I figure Mike H. will let Bean back in soon, but I think that Bean is way to big a fellow to be taught a lesson and most likely the Ban will mean that he will never participate the same way. I really think the Mods should take a bit longer before banning A+ posters like Bean and Grim Reefer. Grim was never the same after his Ban, he just never seemed to be as enthusiastic about helping people and I fear that is what will happen with Bean if he returns. __________________ The Optimist says the glass is half full, the Pessimist says it’s half empty, an engineer only see's a glass that’s twice as big as it needs to be! Current Tank Info: Insanely Automated Low Power Consumption 90 Gal Oceanic Bow System/Aquatronica Touch Controller/AQ Dosing Pump/AQT LEDS/AQ SMS/Seq Dart Pump/ASM G3/Ozotech Ozonizer/Koralin 1502/Chiller/Typhoon3 Ro/S.Squirt /Phos React/Rmt DSB

02/13/2008, 11:55 AM	#105
pescadero Moved On Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 1,749	thanks for the link. i miss BeAn Animal and i really would like to know if he's taken up residence on another forum, as i would follow him there. WRT hosting your own forum -- that is an awful lot of work and consumes an awful lot of bandwidth. BTDT.

02/13/2008, 09:37 PM	#109
hyperfocal Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Edge of oblivion Posts: 1,708	Yeah, ironically it's the moderation that's the real work. __________________ "Froth at the top, dregs at bottom, but the middle excellent." -- Voltaire Current Tank Info: getting back into the hobby

02/18/2008, 05:28 PM	#110
mushumatt Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: West Chester Posts: 670	I dont know if you guys can answer this question but does it matter how close together the bulkheads are. I am building a 8' long tank and i dont really want them to be right next to eachother could they be a few feet apart? __________________ Lets Go Mountaineers WVU Audi Sport/ACNA/NEQ Current Tank Info: 40 BR w/20L sump

02/18/2008, 09:54 PM	#112
faded1004 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: cypress, ca Posts: 2,445	i am going to try this on my nano setup before i implement on my 260g... i hope all works well...

02/20/2008, 07:53 AM	#113
jimnrose Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: The Villages, Florida Posts: 1,093	I'm new to the hobby and starting a 125 gallon reef tank. This thread is a great idea on how to design an overflow box including a lot of work by the author to describe the detains. In my case, access is limited to one side of the tank and I'm thinking or having the water return (400+gph) via a manifold (1 1/4" pvc pipe)above the water line. Does this make sense????

02/20/2008, 10:28 AM	#115
H20ENG Pro builder/aquarist hack Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: NORCAL (Vacaville, CA) Posts: 5,125	jimnrose, Welcome! Yes To have the return line above the water line is fine. Do you mean up and over the side of the tank? I dont care for having the actual water outlet above water due to noise and splashing, which creates salt creep (buildup of salt crystals on dry surfaces). When you put the outlet nozzle under the water, you must drill an antisiphon hole just below the water level. This way, the tank will only drain down to that level when the power goes out, or the pump stops. You may already know this, if so great. HTH, and let us know how your installation goes. Chris

02/20/2008, 10:57 AM	#116
jimnrose Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: The Villages, Florida Posts: 1,093	The only two options I have is to either come back into the display uner the overflow box or go over the side and come back to the water level (via fittings). I didn't like the first option because the bulkhead fitting would be very low (to the water level) and if a leak developed I would loose a lot of water, etc, plus the reefs would interfere with the return distribution pipe. Sooo, I left with coming over the top. I could add drop lines (fittings) thereby having the entry points below the water level therby avoiding the noise, splashing and salt problems. Does that make sense? I just ordered the tank (125 gal: 72x24x17) & now plan to order the PVC fittings. It's time to spend. Thanks for your inputs Chris.

02/28/2008, 07:50 PM	#117
Der_Iron_Chef Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Calgary, AB, Canada Posts: 841	I don't know if this has already been asked (read the entire thread--several times--before), but.....will drilling the three holes compromise the structural integrity of the glass? I have a 55G made from 3/8" glass. What are everyone's drilling recommendations?

02/28/2008, 09:07 PM	#118
BeanAnimal Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 20,772	Drilling three holes should be fine. It is a good idea to keep the holes at least 1.5 diameter apart. Be careful, many 55 gallon tanks are reported to have tempered sides. The only problem I see is that a 55 gallon tank is very narrow and does not allow much room for an internal overflow AND room to get light into the tank. You may consider an internal overflow box with a very narrow profle that feeds an external overflow box and the standpipes.

02/28/2008, 09:44 PM	#119
jimnrose Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: The Villages, Florida Posts: 1,093	I'm planning on drilling 2 3/4" holes thru 3/8" acrylic with only 1 3/8" spacing. I haven't done this before and the tank is still 'on order' but plan to purchase a new cutting bit. If anyone has drilled large loes thru acrylic and could please give me guidance I would appreciate it.

02/28/2008, 10:36 PM	#120
BeanAnimal Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 20,772	You may want to check with Acrylics here at RC regarding the hole spacing with acrylic. I don't see that it will be a problem. Acrylic can flex a great deal before it fails due to stress. Glass is not so forgiving and a small crack quickly becomes a large crack. You will either want to use a router and a template or a holesaw. If you use a stnadard holesaw, you will need to cut very slowly and use a good deal of water to keep the tailings out of the kerf. If they are not removed they will melt and the saw will get stuck.

02/28/2008, 11:28 PM	#121
H20ENG Pro builder/aquarist hack Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: NORCAL (Vacaville, CA) Posts: 5,125	Also to prevent chip out on the backside of the hole, remove the holesaw just before breaking through and finish the hole from the opposite side. The pilot hole will line it up perfectly and you will have a clean cut. If at all possible, use a router and a template made with your holesaw and some wood. A bit of double sided tape and a flush trim bit will get you a perfect hole. You obviously cant use a router if its too close to the edge. A holesaw will work fine, just not as clean. You dont want to overheat the tank either. Cut for a bit and let it cool, or use water as Bean mentioned.

02/29/2008, 07:41 AM	#122
BeanAnimal Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 20,772	I learned the hard way... I have had a holesaw STUCK in acrylic a few times before I realized there had to be a better way.

02/29/2008, 07:50 AM	#123
jimnrose Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: The Villages, Florida Posts: 1,093	Thaks for the guidance and I'll proceed with caution. I'm looking forward to installing the overflow box design that Bean described on theis thread.

02/29/2008, 08:02 AM	#124
BeanAnimal Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 20,772	Let us know how it turns out.

02/29/2008, 09:29 AM	#125
RV8tor Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Clinton, IL Posts: 386	Bean Welcome back,,, I am going to use your overflow design but with a DIY glass-hole style overflow. I have not drilled anything yet but I have 1.5 inch bulkheads on order. my overflow will go 3/4 the length of the tank. I am using a 900 GPH return pump and my current overflows goes directly into my DIY Skimmer. The skimmer can handle this flow but, Do you think that I can continue to do directly into my skimmer with your silent overflow design? The other two standpipe will go into the sump as for the emergency and only one would go into the skimmer. The output of the overflows is under water inside my skimmer. it is a venturi skimmer just to give you an idea what I am using. I was also wondering where did you get your true union ball valve at? __________________ John ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º> ·´¯`·.¸. , . .·´¯`·.. >((((º> Current Tank Info: 220 gal reef