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07/10/2007, 09:39 PM | #101 |
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Yeah every fish I had always swims near it and gets stinged by them. than they go bouncing against the sand a few times and continue to swim like nothing happened. What are other hardy inverts?
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07/10/2007, 11:09 PM | #102 | |
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Kahuna, thanks for the responses you made while I was offline. |
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07/10/2007, 11:53 PM | #103 |
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Your welcome Peter, thanks for doing all that you do. I really hear what Rich is saying with the propagated BTA's and I think these are a viable option for the aquarist who really wants an anemone. I sure see a lot of folks offering propagated rose anemones here in So Cal and I think this is a good start. I am pretty pleased the way this hobby has headed the last few decades with all of the farm raised livestock and the way people are using the internet to find out about unscrupulous practices like dyeing anemones and drug fish collection. There is just so much more information available now than there was back in the day. I am so glad your list is stickied here Peter and I'm going to do my part to get as many folks to read it as possible. Thanks again.
On a side note I think you need to add banded angels (Apolemichthys arcuatus) to the list, I think they are as touchy as a regal.
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07/11/2007, 02:18 AM | #104 |
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FWIW I think "the list" could do without the cute-sy comment about the stingray barb to the chest.
This is a good list for total newbs I think, but as many have pointed out there are exceptions to every rule, so many of these animals should not be ruled out completely, but those with more experience who wish to attempt to keep them should take into consideration their specific needs. As to the problem with dyed anemones, should we also include colt corals, turbinarias, and the many other hardy corals that turn up dyed as well? |
07/11/2007, 12:04 PM | #105 | |
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The list is geared towards beginners but at the same time I know of people that have been in this hobby for many years that don't realize the requirements of a lot of these fish. I ran into someone just last week that has been in this hobby for 7 years and he was looking to add a Twinspot Wrasse to his 75 gallon tank... Perhaps I'll make a general note about dyed creatures, though I can't even recall the last time I saw something dyed besides an anemone. |
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07/11/2007, 12:20 PM | #106 |
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Just making a note to myself to add the Horseshoe crab, Larabicus quadrilineatus, and Bandit Angel (Apolemichthys arcuatus).
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07/11/2007, 12:31 PM | #107 |
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I've seen dyed pagodas and sinularia not too long ago.
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07/11/2007, 12:58 PM | #108 |
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I am curious to why the Cleaner wrasse is on the list, can some one please explain why a little further?
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07/11/2007, 02:11 PM | #109 | |
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Reading the list again you list seahorses as needing a constant supply of live nutritous food. Aquacultured CB seahorses can be fed frozen food exclusivley through there life. WC's and TR seahorses will be more prone to only accepting live. Just a sidenote. I agree completely with adding the horse shoe crab. Too many buy them small and don't realize how big they will get. On the leapord wrasse might also want to add the macrogeoffrey, also called the Potter's Leapord. Same concerns as with the other leapords although not as common. Last note, I do think using common names would be more helpful to newbs. Most don't know latin and even some LFS owners don't as well. Just a suggestion. Keep it up. Sorry your getting so much Flak for such an outstanding effort. |
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07/11/2007, 02:23 PM | #110 |
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Peter, I know nothing about the midwest.
But you can't even get wild caught BTAs out here on the east coast. Theyre too expensive to get compared to propogated ones. You literally cant GIVE THEM AWAY. Need a BTA in good condition? PAH. I've seen them go through powerheads, and then sprout up all over the tank. Theyre alot hardier than pretty much anything other than Zoos.
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07/11/2007, 03:42 PM | #111 |
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i kept a BTA in a 10 gallon tank with a 10 watt flourescent bulb and it literally quadrupled in size in about 7 months. It was a very simple tank and it thrived. I then tried one in a 29 gallon with PC lights and it hasn't grown at all... I would put them in the hardy category for the most part
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07/11/2007, 06:09 PM | #112 | |
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07/11/2007, 06:15 PM | #113 | |
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On the flip side of you scenario of BTAs surviving stress like that... I've seen stores get 5 or so of them in and have every single one of the die within a week or two. They're not particulalrly good stores, but they're not awful either. They have no problems keep many types of corals, but they still lose a ton of BTAs. I do agree that they are the hardiest of the clown anemone and I'll make a note of that when I revise the list. |
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07/11/2007, 07:36 PM | #114 |
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Offtopic but what are some other hardy inverts? That are like the tube anemone?
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07/11/2007, 07:36 PM | #115 |
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I would agree with rich about the east coast BTA's. I dunno about not being able to give them away but they are pretty common in the clubs
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07/11/2007, 07:56 PM | #116 |
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Is BTA blue tip anemone or bubble tip anemone and are they available over in Cali?
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07/11/2007, 08:00 PM | #117 |
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BTA = bubble tip anemone or bulb anemone. Common here in cali.
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07/11/2007, 08:00 PM | #118 | |
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07/11/2007, 11:41 PM | #119 | |
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07/12/2007, 01:35 AM | #120 | |||
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Overcollecting of yellow tangs probably hurts the reef more than removal of cleaner wrasses, yet they remain one of the most popular species for aquarists. How many of you have a yellow tang in your tank? Quote:
Cleaner wrasses can learn to eat artificial foods just like other fish, and can be kept in captivity successfully. However, they're delicate fish in general and aren't easy to maintain. They belong in the "expert care only" section, rather than the "absolutely don't purchase ever" section. Other fish, such as leopard wrasses and tamarind wrasses, have similar success/failure rates. I'm not trying to promote the irresponsible purchase of difficult-to-keep fish, but most of the claims about cleaner wrasses are just plain wrong. It'd make a good Myth Busters eposide. Quote:
Quinaldine and clove oil are both used in areas where they're legal. Both are supposed to be safe if used properly, but they can kill fish if the concentration is too high. |
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07/12/2007, 01:48 PM | #121 | |||||
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"Slobodkin and Fishelson (1974), working in the Red Sea, studied the influence of the cleaner wrasse, Labroides dimidiatus, on the distribution of other fishes on the reefs off Eilat. They deployed a 10m transect line along the reef slope. They then stopped at the end of the 10m line, moved out perpendicularly from the reef face about 5m, and counted all fishes coming within 1m of either side of the transect's end during a 20-minute survey period. This procedure was repeated 60 times so that 600m of reef face was systematically surveyed. Slobodkin and Fishelson were able to convincingly demonstrate that cleaning wrasse territories acted as a focus for the aggregation of other reef fishes." Quote:
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From Bob Fenner. "This is the genus of obligate Cleaner Wrasses most celebrated for establishing stations in the wild that are frequented by "local" reef fishes and pelagics for removing parasites and necrotic tissue. Perhaps shocking to most aquarists, all the Labroides rate a dismal (3) in survivability, even the ubiquitously offered common or Blue Cleaner Wrasse, Labroides dimidiatus. None of the Labroides should be removed, not only for the fact that almost all perish within a few weeks of wild capture, but for the valuable role they play as cleaners." "On with the issue at hand. One of the wrasse family's fifty eight genera is Labroides, with five described species. The most commonly available is the black, blue and white lined Labroides dimidiatus; the other four have other colors, cost much more money (a few to several tens of dollars U.S.) and should not be offered to the hobby, or encouraged to be so by their purchase." "Obligates by definition get all or virtually all their nutrient from their cleaning activity; various species setting up permanent cleaning stations with "customer" hosts coming in for regular grooming. Experimental removal of some of these cleaners has demonstrated their immense importance as parasite controls. Local and even large pelagic fish populations are quickly negatively impacted by their removal. Fish populations drop or migrate and remaining fishes lose fitness as measured by increased external parasite loads, sores and torn fins. Casual diving with the four multi-colorful Labroides species reveals that they are of limited numbers and closely defined distribution. When they are removed, the whole reef population suffers." "Further, these species have not been kept for any length of time in captivity, most dying within a few days to weeks due to a lack of nutritive interaction with host fishes. I have heard stories and seen the endemic Hawaiian cleaner, Labroides phthirophagus accepting dry prepared, freeze-dried, fresh and live foods, still only to waste away and die."
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07/12/2007, 02:34 PM | #122 | |
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its more of the case that everyone who has one, within a year, has 5 or 6. Theyre SO easy to keep and grow/reproduce so quickly that you dont need a prop system. Theyre pretty much unsellable from Maine all the way down into DC It may go further, but I haven't checked places out any further south than that.
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07/12/2007, 05:56 PM | #123 | |
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They're anything but unsellable.
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07/12/2007, 06:29 PM | #124 |
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Nice comprehensive list. Thanks for the hard work, Peter.
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07/12/2007, 09:16 PM | #125 |
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Would still appreciate some more feedback on the Potter's since I'm seriously considering adding it to the second part of the list. More feedback on the Blue Reef Chromis is appreciated as well.
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April 2015 TOTM Last edited by Peter Eichler; 07/12/2007 at 09:23 PM. |
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