The "Hitchhiker's Guide" to the Maxi-Stream mod - Page 4

dhnguyen · 11/30/2005, 11:29 AM

well you do want to allow some room for the impeller to move back and forth as it wil do this very rapidly upon startup to right itself. Also the one inch tolerance is not neccessarily exact either. One inch from the cross brace to the prop but also factor in the stopper underneath the cross brace which would hit the prop long before it actually comes in contact with the cross brace itself. So in actuality it's more like 3/4 inch.

But I do suppose that you can leave a smaller tolerance if you want to. It's just easier to measure, follow, and duplicate 1 inch than say 5/16 inch

GSerg2 · 11/30/2005, 11:32 AM

Gotcha, thanks again.

Reefer madness · 11/30/2005, 03:10 PM

Great thread! Thanks for compiling everything.

FWIW, I have a section of sch 80 1.5" PVC (gray). The ID of the schd 80 pipe is approx .005" too small to fit over the maxi-jet body. I am using MJ 1200's for measurements, yours may vary.

I figure a flapper wheel will eat up that dimension pretty quick. The schd 80 pipe color almost matches the MJ perfectly. I'm going to give it a try.

Scott

dhnguyen · 11/30/2005, 03:20 PM

You could take a Dremel and bore it out a little to make it fit the MJ body. Wouldn't be too hard to grind down 0.005" on one end

Reefer madness · 11/30/2005, 04:05 PM

Even better than a dremel:

Flapper wheel

This should make it easier to keep the ID round since it should only require a quick sanding. Making the pipe out of round could lead to centering issues with the impeller. In my mind, at least.

Question though: Is there any particular reason why you put the bearing from the MJ on the end of the carbon fiber rod? It seems to me that you could cut the rod flush with the end and make it more aesthetically pleasing. Am I missing something?

Thanks,
Scott

dhnguyen · 11/30/2005, 04:56 PM

No reason really. I actually kinda like the look of the bearing on the outside of the cross brace like that. And I have this thing about not having any small extra parts after assembly

Something about a loose small rubber bearing lying around kinda gnaws at me I guess

Used to work on motorcyles and that "Uh oh where did this come from..." after I completed rebuilding an engine gets to me big time

Francisco Leal · 12/01/2005, 05:19 AM

Good work! Thank you for doing this.
Could you tell me how much flow have this maxjet 900 after modifications? How do you make to measure?

dhnguyen · 12/01/2005, 09:39 AM

That part I don't know just yet. Haven't tried measuring to get an estimated flow rate yet. Melev suggested using a thin plastic bag connected to the output and time how long it takes to fill it then measure what's in the bag.

I would assuming just by the look anf general feel of things, the flow is improved at least 3 times if not much more compared to a stock MJ pump.

D.

schanz · 12/01/2005, 10:13 AM

How did you do the "mod mount" so that the ph sits horizontally? Did you glue the small beveled piece to the top of the ph?

dhnguyen · 12/01/2005, 10:29 AM

Yep

wildcats · 12/01/2005, 10:33 AM

Back to the grey pipe for a minute, most home improvement stores carry grey pvc pipe used for electrical conduit. Its cheaper than schedule 80. I think you'll find it much easier. Also, when used for plumbing, they have lots of fittings available in odd angles which sometimes come in particularly handy. Check it out

dhnguyen · 12/01/2005, 10:49 AM

Guess what I found

SCH40 Gray PVC pipes

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pro...uct%5Fid=16587

billpa · 12/01/2005, 12:20 PM

For the MJ900 version...was a test cap used for the mount to the MJ900 or did you cut that groove our yourself? If so, do you have any info or photos on how to do that? Nice job BTW!

Thanks
billpa

dhnguyen · 12/01/2005, 01:25 PM

Nope no PVC test cap on the MJ900 mod shown on page 1.

Also there I posted how to do the groove

Cutting the groove. For this I am using a 10" miter saw with a 7" fine toothed blade. At the highest height setting, the miter saw will come down just enough to cut into the 1.5" PVC pipe halfway through the plastic, making it ideal for cutting the groove. For those of you who chose to use the PVC test caps instead, you can skip this.

You can probably do it with a Dremel cutoff wheel too or even a hack saw if you don't have access to power tools.

billpa · 12/01/2005, 01:29 PM

okay cool...but you could use the test cap instead...correct? Only reason why I ask is because you only used the teset cap on the 400. I dont think the models vary in size but wanted to make sure.

Thanks!
Bill

dhnguyen · 12/01/2005, 01:30 PM

yeah you could use the test cap instead. It just looks nicer with the groove cut into the pipe.

billpa · 12/01/2005, 01:33 PM

thanks!

dhnguyen · 12/01/2005, 01:36 PM

Also.... Note on page 1, I showed 2 versions of the MJ400 mod.

One with then groove cut in and one using a test cap.

The thing with the test cap is that it fits into the 1.5" PVC pipe perfectly and so if you want to use the test cap you need to use a PVC bushing for the housing or follow BullDZR's design here

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...hreadid=611354

See how he cut out the sides of the pipe to allow the test cap to fit onto the MJ body?

GSerg2 · 12/01/2005, 06:15 PM

How did you cut your carbon fiber rods?

Lordhelmet · 12/01/2005, 07:00 PM

i use a dremel to cut it. cuts pretty quickly and is not going to flex.

11/30/2005, 11:32 AM	#62
GSerg2 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Owasso, Oklahoma Posts: 1,037	Gotcha, thanks again. __________________ - Greg Current Tank Info: 215g RR, 30g sump, 10g refugium, 750w 14K Hamilton MH + 500w URI VHO

11/30/2005, 03:10 PM	#63
Reefer madness Reefer Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Corpus Christi, TX Posts: 211	Great thread! Thanks for compiling everything. FWIW, I have a section of sch 80 1.5" PVC (gray). The ID of the schd 80 pipe is approx .005" too small to fit over the maxi-jet body. I am using MJ 1200's for measurements, yours may vary. I figure a flapper wheel will eat up that dimension pretty quick. The schd 80 pipe color almost matches the MJ perfectly. I'm going to give it a try. Scott __________________ "Meaning without words 'tis a thought, but words with no meaning beith gibberish." NEMO 1988 Current Tank Info: I'm tankless..

11/30/2005, 04:05 PM	#65
Reefer madness Reefer Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Corpus Christi, TX Posts: 211	Even better than a dremel: Flapper wheel This should make it easier to keep the ID round since it should only require a quick sanding. Making the pipe out of round could lead to centering issues with the impeller. In my mind, at least. Question though: Is there any particular reason why you put the bearing from the MJ on the end of the carbon fiber rod? It seems to me that you could cut the rod flush with the end and make it more aesthetically pleasing. Am I missing something? Thanks, Scott __________________ "Meaning without words 'tis a thought, but words with no meaning beith gibberish." NEMO 1988 Current Tank Info: I'm tankless..

12/01/2005, 10:13 AM	#69
schanz Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Central Missouri Posts: 989	How did you do the "mod mount" so that the ph sits horizontally? Did you glue the small beveled piece to the top of the ph? __________________ Got Flow? 120 gallon sps, closed loop. Phoenix 14K. SSB, RDSB, Chaeto

12/01/2005, 06:15 PM	#79
GSerg2 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Owasso, Oklahoma Posts: 1,037	How did you cut your carbon fiber rods? __________________ - Greg Current Tank Info: 215g RR, 30g sump, 10g refugium, 750w 14K Hamilton MH + 500w URI VHO

11/30/2005, 11:29 AM	#61
dhnguyen Moved On Join Date: May 2004 Location: Kingston, WA Posts: 4,751	well you do want to allow some room for the impeller to move back and forth as it wil do this very rapidly upon startup to right itself. Also the one inch tolerance is not neccessarily exact either. One inch from the cross brace to the prop but also factor in the stopper underneath the cross brace which would hit the prop long before it actually comes in contact with the cross brace itself. So in actuality it's more like 3/4 inch. But I do suppose that you can leave a smaller tolerance if you want to. It's just easier to measure, follow, and duplicate 1 inch than say 5/16 inch

11/30/2005, 03:20 PM	#64
dhnguyen Moved On Join Date: May 2004 Location: Kingston, WA Posts: 4,751	You could take a Dremel and bore it out a little to make it fit the MJ body. Wouldn't be too hard to grind down 0.005" on one end

11/30/2005, 04:56 PM	#66
dhnguyen Moved On Join Date: May 2004 Location: Kingston, WA Posts: 4,751	No reason really. I actually kinda like the look of the bearing on the outside of the cross brace like that. And I have this thing about not having any small extra parts after assembly Something about a loose small rubber bearing lying around kinda gnaws at me I guess Used to work on motorcyles and that "Uh oh where did this come from..." after I completed rebuilding an engine gets to me big time

12/01/2005, 05:19 AM	#67
Francisco Leal Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Gravataí - RS - Brazil Posts: 3	Good work! Thank you for doing this. Could you tell me how much flow have this maxjet 900 after modifications? How do you make to measure?

12/01/2005, 09:39 AM	#68
dhnguyen Moved On Join Date: May 2004 Location: Kingston, WA Posts: 4,751	That part I don't know just yet. Haven't tried measuring to get an estimated flow rate yet. Melev suggested using a thin plastic bag connected to the output and time how long it takes to fill it then measure what's in the bag. I would assuming just by the look anf general feel of things, the flow is improved at least 3 times if not much more compared to a stock MJ pump. D.

12/01/2005, 10:29 AM	#70
dhnguyen Moved On Join Date: May 2004 Location: Kingston, WA Posts: 4,751	Yep

12/01/2005, 10:33 AM	#71
wildcats Registered Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Cincinnati, OH Posts: 92	Back to the grey pipe for a minute, most home improvement stores carry grey pvc pipe used for electrical conduit. Its cheaper than schedule 80. I think you'll find it much easier. Also, when used for plumbing, they have lots of fittings available in odd angles which sometimes come in particularly handy. Check it out

12/01/2005, 10:49 AM	#72
dhnguyen Moved On Join Date: May 2004 Location: Kingston, WA Posts: 4,751	Guess what I found SCH40 Gray PVC pipes http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pro...uct%5Fid=16587

12/01/2005, 12:20 PM	#73
billpa Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,491	For the MJ900 version...was a test cap used for the mount to the MJ900 or did you cut that groove our yourself? If so, do you have any info or photos on how to do that? Nice job BTW! Thanks billpa

12/01/2005, 01:25 PM	#74
dhnguyen Moved On Join Date: May 2004 Location: Kingston, WA Posts: 4,751	Nope no PVC test cap on the MJ900 mod shown on page 1. Also there I posted how to do the groove Cutting the groove. For this I am using a 10" miter saw with a 7" fine toothed blade. At the highest height setting, the miter saw will come down just enough to cut into the 1.5" PVC pipe halfway through the plastic, making it ideal for cutting the groove. For those of you who chose to use the PVC test caps instead, you can skip this. You can probably do it with a Dremel cutoff wheel too or even a hack saw if you don't have access to power tools.

12/01/2005, 01:29 PM	#75
billpa Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,491	okay cool...but you could use the test cap instead...correct? Only reason why I ask is because you only used the teset cap on the 400. I dont think the models vary in size but wanted to make sure. Thanks! Bill

12/01/2005, 01:30 PM	#76
dhnguyen Moved On Join Date: May 2004 Location: Kingston, WA Posts: 4,751	yeah you could use the test cap instead. It just looks nicer with the groove cut into the pipe.

12/01/2005, 01:33 PM	#77
billpa Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,491	thanks!

12/01/2005, 01:36 PM	#78
dhnguyen Moved On Join Date: May 2004 Location: Kingston, WA Posts: 4,751	Also.... Note on page 1, I showed 2 versions of the MJ400 mod. One with then groove cut in and one using a test cap. The thing with the test cap is that it fits into the 1.5" PVC pipe perfectly and so if you want to use the test cap you need to use a PVC bushing for the housing or follow BullDZR's design here http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...hreadid=611354 See how he cut out the sides of the pipe to allow the test cap to fit onto the MJ body?

12/01/2005, 07:00 PM	#80
Lordhelmet Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 2,008	i use a dremel to cut it. cuts pretty quickly and is not going to flex. __________________ I need a new signiture Current Tank Info: 90 gallon, 14 gallon