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11/22/2017, 10:47 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 144
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Floor Level and shim suggestions?
So I made a post a a couple weeks ago about a sump flow issue and I had mentioned the floor was a touch un-level so I am going to be draining my 120g +20g sump on friday night and redoing it, and then pumping the water back in and readding coral. I had got into a major rush trying to get into new house and just didnt realize it. Its probably about a 1/4" off one end to the other. So basically Im asking for suggestions on the best way to go about this. On the docket to complete is two main items -
While I have the water drained (planning on just using my pump to transfer as much water as I can as to leave fish the ability to stay vertical), then going straight to basement, adding a floor jack from home depot as a precaution that I should have taken the first time around a few weeks ago (the floor was already off from what I can tell, but not taking any chances). Most of the tank sits on a concrete wall, and I dont think the floor has settled anymore. Am I OK to go straight out from where the corner of the tank sits down there and screwing a foot long 2 x 4 on each side of the 2x6 that run up the length of the floor and then placing the jack underneath (2x4 on each side so the top of the jack sits flush) and just getting it snug (no raising)? After the jack is in place, come upstairs and shim and level the tank and stand again, and then start pumping water back in a little at a time and rechecking my leveling skills? Trying to plan as much as I can at least and trying to think of every possible scenario. Any friendly suggestions to any of this? The bracing, shimming, or transferring back and forth part? I'm sick that I have to do this, but I just did the rush job and only had 36 hours to be out of my old house and into a new one, so didnt exactly have time to think about it beyond "ok get it moved tonight or sell it off and be rid of it" Thank you all for any input you can help me with! |
11/22/2017, 11:00 PM | #2 | |
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 183
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Quote:
Just read your post. I have a standard all glass 125g on a steel stand. Looking at the water level, the right side is clearly 3/8 inches lower. It’s been that way since 1998. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
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11/22/2017, 11:19 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 144
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Yeah most have told me it would more than likely be fine, but Im getting more and more terrified of the possibilities as I think about it. Figure might as well get it done and not worry about it. I think it will also solve some drain issues Ive been having. The water is hitting the overflow on that side faster than the other and its not quite draining evenly. Mainly Im just worried about the floor settling a little more and sagging and the tank beginning to twist. Right now, its not twisting the tank any, but I can see it easily starting to if I am not careful
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11/22/2017, 11:57 PM | #4 |
Grizzled & Cynical
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Stamford, CT
Posts: 17,319
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The reality is that a 120 just isn't that big; particularly if it's partly sitting on a concrete foundation wall. I recently removed a 265, that was also partly sitting on a foundation wall, and when 'released' the floors moved not a mm. Put in your jack post, they're cheap and peace of mind is priceless. Then shim the stand so it's perfectly level.
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Simon Got back into the hobby ..... planned to keep it simple ..... yeah, right ..... clearly I need a new plan! Pet peeve: anemones host clowns; clowns do not host anemones! Current Tank Info: 450 Reef; 120 refugium; 60 Frag Tank, 30 Introduction tank; multiple QTs |
11/23/2017, 10:33 AM | #5 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Grove City, Ohio
Posts: 10,806
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Quote:
^^^This^^^ My 120 DT with 40b sump sits parallel and about 6" in front of one of the steel I beams that run perpendicular to the floor joists. It sits over the finished basement, so no floor jack. It is just fine as it is. Go ahead and put in the floor jack - it certainly can't hurt, but probably isn't needed. I would place it now rather than when the tank is empty, and snug it in place. Drain the tank down and then level it out, refill, and call it a day.
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I'll try to be nice if you try to be smarter! I can't help that I grow older, but you can't make me grow up! Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, RO 150 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, BM curve 5 skimmer |
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11/23/2017, 11:01 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 144
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Great! Thanks guys! Appeciate the input
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11/24/2017, 05:42 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 144
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One question on the shimming if anyones sees this before i start -
The way this stand is built, i cant get to the back of the tnk as its against the wall. I’m a little concerned with shimming under the side thats lower and not being able to reach around behind to get shims across it. Won’t doing this possibly raise the center few feet of the 6’ length up some? Any chance Ill end up making a worse mess thn the leveling job is now? |
11/24/2017, 06:05 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Redwood City
Posts: 1,354
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Leave it. I think a bit unlevel is way better than bowing the bottom.
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2x 65g displays with a 30g cryptic refugium and 30g sump - 55g reef 30g Bio-cube reef - I.M. 30g reef - 45g freshwater |
11/25/2017, 11:12 AM | #9 |
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Location: New Jersey
Posts: 527
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I wouldn't shim the stand, just level the floor. Also you can probably jack the floor with the tank filled.
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11/25/2017, 01:11 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 144
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Yeah i may be able to a little bit. I put the jack post down there and just snugged it up a little, wasnt sure on jackinf the floor with it. Would that have any effect structurally on jacking it on up a little and seeing what ut soes?
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