The Life Reef Skimmer Club

[wildman926]

What a difference in contact time this mod has made. I have never liked the fact to gain additional contact time, you had to have a significantly taller skimmer body. The small inlet plumbing, dumping into the small chamber within the main body restricts contact time in all but the largest skimmers.

Originally Posted by hobbzz

[hobbzz]

I'm going to lower it another 4"-6" when the new pump arrives and see what happens. Either a 70rlt or 200ps.

[wildman926]

Originally Posted by hobbzz

I'm going to lower it another 4"-6" when the new pump arrives and see what happens. Either a 70rlt or 200ps.

You don't want to go too much lower than you already have. The chamber needs room to expand when there is a heavy load such as after feeding. With it lower, it may send massive amounts of micro bubbles out either all the time, or after feeding.

[hobbzz]

It's already sending micro bubbles out. I have the output emptying into a 1 micron filter sock which takes care of that. But if there is another reason not to lower it I will hold off.

[wildman926]

Originally Posted by hobbzz

It's already sending micro bubbles out. I have the output emptying into a 1 micron filter sock which takes care of that. But if there is another reason not to lower it I will hold off.

No, just as long as you are aware of that. I would leave it there and let it cook, and see what it comes up with.

[hobbzz]

Will do.

[Piper27]

I have the same mod on mine but i have a bubble plate over the outlet and my skimmer outlet exits underneath. As well as my recirculation outlet.

[hobbzz]

Any pics?

[rEeFnWrX]

Originally Posted by EvMiBo

Man, would be nice to have a basement or fish room to set this up externally. Everyone is raving about the pressure rated externally run pumps. I'm hoping I'll still be impressed with the jebao dc9000 on the vs3-30 (in sump). It's head rating isn't as good as mags but it isn't bad either.

So I decided to unpack my dc6000 (which is a backup pump). Gave it a vinegar bath for about 5 hours and then two rinse baths for about 1 hour each.

Swapped it out with my mag9. I did have to open the gate valve a little bit. But honestly, I am a little disappointed. I will see what it looks like when I get home, but you may want to consider the DC12000 for your 30".....



This makes me really want to try running my LR off a manifold fed by the reeflo dart gold. Has anyone ran their LR with success off of a manifold??

[ken6217]

Originally Posted by rEeFnWrX

So I decided to unpack my dc6000 (which is a backup pump). Gave it a vinegar bath for about 5 hours and then two rinse baths for about 1 hour each.

Swapped it out with my mag9. I did have to open the gate valve a little bit. But honestly, I am a little disappointed. I will see what it looks like when I get home, but you may want to consider the DC12000 for your 30".....



This makes me really want to try running my LR off a manifold fed by the reeflo dart gold. Has anyone ran their LR with success off of a manifold??

Would the water enter the skimmer by gravity feed or teeing off the pump? I tried it with gravity feed a few years ago (with another skimmer) and I couldn't keep a consistent level in the skimmer and therefore lousy results.

How come you are not sticking with the Mag 9?

[rEeFnWrX]

Originally Posted by ken6217

Would the water enter the skimmer by gravity feed or teeing off the pump? I tried it with gravity feed a few years ago (with another skimmer) and I couldn't keep a consistent level in the skimmer and therefore lousy results.

How come you are not sticking with the Mag 9?

I will T it off from the Return pump. I honestly feel the 24" is limited by the mag 9 and has a much higher performance ceiling.

[wildman926]

Originally Posted by rEeFnWrX

I will T it off from the Return pump. I honestly feel the 24" is limited by the mag 9 and has a much higher performance ceiling.

Water will take the least path of resistance. When it has a two paths, a venturi as used on this skimmer or open pipe, it will take the open pipe route.

[hobbzz]

Originally Posted by wildman926

Water will take the least path of resistance. When it has a two paths, a venturi as used on this skimmer or open pipe, it will take the open pipe route.

One of the pumps I had planned on getting would probably be a little too much, so I had planned to T it off and send some of the flow to a reactor via a ball valve. So it would run the skimmer and reactor only. I don't need much flow through the reactor, about 200 gph so the ball valve to it would be closed most of the way. Do you think this would work?

[EvMiBo]

Originally Posted by rEeFnWrX

So I decided to unpack my dc6000 (which is a backup pump). Gave it a vinegar bath for about 5 hours and then two rinse baths for about 1 hour each.

Swapped it out with my mag9. I did have to open the gate valve a little bit. But honestly, I am a little disappointed. I will see what it looks like when I get home, but you may want to consider the DC12000 for your 30".....



This makes me really want to try running my LR off a manifold fed by the reeflo dart gold. Has anyone ran their LR with success off of a manifold??

Sorry, can't rememeber - you're running that dc6000 on the 24" body, right? What setting were you running it on? Also, there might be a break-in period. You should be getting around 1400gph (considering headloss) on setting 6/6 with the dc6000.

I have no clue about running manifolds with these. Seems like it'd be really hard to tweak though, and would require a lot of trial and error.

[rEeFnWrX]

Originally Posted by wildman926

Water will take the least path of resistance. When it has a two paths, a venturi as used on this skimmer or open pipe, it will take the open pipe route.

Yep. All lines will have Gate/Ball valves, there will be no pipes wide open so I can build pressure.

I am going to be running zeovit so most likely my Reactors will not be used but plumbed for future proofing.

1.5" manifold system which will have reducing T's

1" - Return line -> 3/4" locline
1" - Return line -> 3/4" locline
3/4" - Skimmer
3/4" - Reactor Feed
3/4" or 1/2" - Bypass valve - have not decided on size yet
1/2" - Refugium Feed

I understand that any adjustment to one or the other will affect everything else. But I have not adjusted my reactor/return/refugium flows in about 2 years. So once it's dialed in it should not be an issue... hopefully

[rEeFnWrX]

Originally Posted by EvMiBo

Sorry, can't rememeber - you're running that dc6000 on the 24" body, right? What setting were you running it on? Also, there might be a break-in period. You should be getting around 1400gph (considering headloss) on setting 6/6 with the dc6000.

I have no clue about running manifolds with these. Seems like it'd be really hard to tweak though, and would require a lot of trial and error.

Yeah 24" body. I still have it running, will let it go over the weekend, hopefully it speeds up. But at first glance it was just barely more than the mag9.

[EvMiBo]

Originally Posted by rEeFnWrX

Yeah 24" body. I still have it running, will let it go over the weekend, hopefully it speeds up. But at first glance it was just barely more than the mag9.

That's disappointing to hear. Please chime back in after the weekend!

[EvMiBo]

For those running the blueline 30HDX on their 30" LR's, what's the noise like? There's a small chance that I may be able to fit this under my stand, as the skimmer sits in the sump.

Would there be any issues having the input line into the pump pull over the rim of a sump (about 12") to the pump, then back up to the venturi? Would I lose some skimming capabilities because of the extra head? Would you run 40hdx instead or just drill the sump on the side? Unfortunately the pump would have to be perpendicular to the sump.

Here's a picture of what I'm talking about, my mouse is nearly dead

[rEeFnWrX]

You should drill it, at a minimum if you were to run it over like that I would make it hard plumbing for the pump intake but then you'll need to incorporate a way to prime it.

Running it like this will put some restriction on the inlet. Restricting the inlet is the last thing you want to do to a pump... cavitation will be a risk

[EvMiBo]

Originally Posted by rEeFnWrX

You should drill it, at a minimum if you were to run it over like that I would make it hard plumbing for the pump intake but then you'll need to incorporate a way to prime it.

Running it like this will put some restriction on the inlet. Restricting the inlet is the last thing you want to do to a pump... cavitation will be a risk

Thanks, that's what I figured. I think I will give the dc9000 a try and if not satisfied I'll drill and get the 30hdx.

[mikeatjac]

Originally Posted by wildman926

What a difference in contact time this mod has made. I have never liked the fact to gain additional contact time, you had to have a significantly taller skimmer body. The small inlet plumbing, dumping into the small chamber within the main body restricts contact time in all but the largest skimmers.

The small inlet chamber is a mixing chamber that flows into the larger contact area. I don't understand your logic. There is a lot of contact area before the water exits.

[hobbzz]

Mike - I think pumping the large volume of water into that relatively small cylinder would increase the velocity and prevent the water from spending a lot of time mixing there.

EvMibo - I would drill it if you can. I have mine hooked up like your drawing, with a priming chamber, and it hasn't lost prime. I shut off the skimmer every day to feed. If you do it correctly it shouldn't ever lose prime, but it's still a risk. Better to drill if you can. I also have the panworld 100px right now. Blue Line and panworld are the same pumps, so mine would be comparable to the 40hd and I can't hear it over the water trickling into the overflow. Just a slight whine. Mine is also sitting directly on a tile floor though, so I wouldn't have to worry about vibration like you would.

[mikeatjac]

Originally Posted by hobbzz

Mike - I think pumping the large volume of water into that relatively small cylinder would increase the velocity and prevent the water from spending a lot of time mixing there.

.

That is what I thought but in reality it creates a very turbulent area of extreme mixing.
I have been following your issues you have with the skimmer. It took me three weeks for my skimmer to kick in and when it did I was very impressed. You are making a lot of changes very fast.
When you find a pump that mixes well, give it a time.

[hobbzz]

It actually started producing two days ago. The cup is almost half full now so I think it's doing a good job. I'm still going to put a bigger pump on it simply because even the smaller lr's are recommended to have larger pumps than this, but it's performing. Once I get the bigger pump I'm going to leave the input like it is now and give it a few weeks before making any changes, if I even do. I've never had a skimmer take this long to break in and start producing and I can't put my finger on it. But it does seem like it's common among people in this thread. It's definitely producing now though.

[Adam G]

I am in the market for a new skimmer and just read through the whole thread. Currently I am using a ATB 1050 with a Red Dragon 1500 pump. After some research I am starting to think perhaps it is a little over sized for my 150g display and 30g sump setup. I consider my tank to be heavily stocked with 25 plus fish. However, I keep nutrients very low with GFO , carbon ,and water changes.

I really like the idea of set it and forget it. I get sick of adjusting and cleaning my ATB. Sometimes I get an inch of skimmate a day, sometime I get 1/4" in 6 days. I think the ATB would do better on a larger system.

My research led me to this thread yesterday and I really like what I read. I just want a skimmer that will skim consistently and efficiently. I called Ken with Life Reef and we chatted for quite a while.

The jist of the conversation was a 30" in sump skimmer powered by a mag 12 if I stay with the standard venturi would be the right skimmer for me. I have 35" of height under my stand so 30 would fit with room to spare. The mag 12 should push plenty of water and air.

I am using all low voltage highly efficient pumps, primarily tunze for flow and returns. That coupled with LED lighting and my power draw for my tank is minimal. It will be hard to put a big ole power sucking Mag 12 in my system again but it sounds like that is a good place to start being it is a medium pressure pump and very reliable.

I see others are trying the DC9000 and DC12000 as well as Ehiem 1262 pumps with some success. I guess that is the only question remaining for me, what pump to select.

The overall goal is keep the noise and watts down. However, I do not want to sacrifice skimming to get it. I have learned in this hobby to do your research and get the right pump the first time around so although it has been covered I have to ask what you guys think at this point now that many of you have tried different pumps. What would you buy if you were running a 30" and had it to do over again? Stick with the Mag12, go to the Mag18, go with the Jabeo DC9000, go with DC12000 and dial it down, or something totally different? So many choices! Let me know what you think......

Thanks,

Adam