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Unread 03/04/2009, 01:12 PM   #101
Reef55
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any reason for the rebels over the cree x-re?

Also, if running 6 of the cree's on a buckpack is too much to drive them fully, would running 5 per buckpack help this issue?



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Unread 03/04/2009, 03:11 PM   #102
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So then what is the difference about these units and the buckpucks? Why am I unable to find those above pictured units? I can find dozen of buckpucks from different retailers.....

anyone...


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Unread 03/04/2009, 03:18 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally posted by EBOLII


So then what is the difference about these units and the buckpucks? Why am I unable to find those above pictured units? I can find dozen of buckpucks from different retailers.....

anyone...
Look here...http://smgsllc.com


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Unread 03/04/2009, 03:23 PM   #104
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That's no help to me, I have been all over their site.....

Thanks though.....


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Unread 03/04/2009, 03:36 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally posted by Reef55
any reason for the rebels over the cree x-re?

Also, if running 6 of the cree's on a buckpack is too much to drive them fully, would running 5 per buckpack help this issue?
I think that should work as long as you reduce the power supply voltage. if you have 5 Cree LEDs with a forward voltage of 3.7 V * 5 = 18.8 V so you would supply at least 20.8 V to operate. The trick is not to supply too much or to little voltage. With any voltage converter you need to limit the voltage difference the higher the difference the more power dropped in the conversion process. I have a real problem with the data sheet on the Buck puck in that it is so vague you almost have to guess what’s going on with it.


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Unread 03/04/2009, 03:42 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally posted by EBOLII


So then what is the difference about these units and the buckpucks? Why am I unable to find those above pictured units? I can find dozen of buckpucks from different retailers.....

anyone...
These are homemade PCB boards that use a voltage regulator (Best Educated guess) configured as a constant current source. Look up a LM317 data sheet and most likely it will show how this device can be configured as a constant current source. The voltage Regulator is a very inefficient way to do this.


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Unread 03/04/2009, 03:45 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally posted by EBOLII
That's no help to me, I have been all over their site.....

Thanks though.....
the part is on top of their list...
http://smgsllc.com/parts.html

but , if you're looking to build your own from their work...then you'll have to buy one and reverse engineer ;-)

There is a fair number of LED driver circuits on the web, pick one you like and build it.

I expect you have also looked at those too :-)


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Unread 03/04/2009, 03:48 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally posted by lynxvs
I take that back I bet you measure less then 148 Watts total
a couple solar panels and a little voltage clean up...off the grid lighting...
except on rainy days


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Unread 03/04/2009, 03:51 PM   #109
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The Buck Pucks are whats called a DC to DC converter a much more efficient way to make a constant current source. There are several types of DC to DC converters such as Buck, Boost, etc. The Buck Puck is the Buck verity so you need to supply a higher voltage to it then what you need.


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Unread 03/04/2009, 03:52 PM   #110
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Problem with Buck Pucks is I'd need about 45 to light my tank LOL


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Unread 03/04/2009, 03:59 PM   #111
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rcgates thanks hope I didn't sound rude.

I did not associate the "Pre-wired quad board" as the actual unit. And you have a great Idea to reverse-engineer. Think it would be worth it? But then that goes back to my original Question. What is the difference between these "Pre-wired quad board" and the buckpucks or powerpuck


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Unread 03/04/2009, 04:02 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally posted by Doahh
Problem with Buck Pucks is I'd need about 45 to light my tank LOL
How many LEDs?????


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Unread 03/04/2009, 04:03 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally posted by EBOLII
rcgates thanks hope I didn't sound rude.

I did not associate the "Pre-wired quad board" as the actual unit. And you have a great Idea to reverse-engineer. Think it would be worth it? But then that goes back to my original Question. What is the difference between these "Pre-wired quad board" and the buckpucks or powerpuck
I wouldn't try to reverse engineer it's a poor design...


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Unread 03/04/2009, 04:04 PM   #114
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http://www.leddynamics.com/LuxDrive/...6-QuadPuck.pdf

these appear to be simular design and better quality


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Unread 03/04/2009, 04:06 PM   #115
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As I was saying I am planning for a large build [72"Length x 24"Width x 30"Deep]
And I was hoping to have One power source maybee 2. I don't want a light with X number of power cords hanging so I am in the process of understanding the design

right? I think Soundwave had the right idea and in the right direction. Just trying to improve the DIY


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Unread 03/04/2009, 05:41 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally posted by lynxvs
How many LEDs?????
Around 250-270


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Unread 03/04/2009, 05:42 PM   #117
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How about this for a design:

Computer Power Supply, using the 12V outputs.

If you want 1amp on each LED, then you can run strings of 3 led's + 1 900 ohm resistor in parallel with each other, plug it in at ledcalc.com to see what I mean for a bank of 24 of them, at 3.7V, 1000ma, with a 12V supply.

Many newer power supplies run 4 or more 12V rails at 17A. 8 strings of 3 should pull around 7.5 amps, so you are well under each.

Thoughts?


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Unread 03/04/2009, 06:18 PM   #118
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I'm not trying to sound negative, here, but some of you guys are making this harder than it is. I've found a great combination and it is working flawlessly. I understand that there may be a slight voltage decrease vs what is stated but the output of the fixture speaks for itself.

Even with the fixture that I made, I can still improve it on a few different levels. However, I have no need or want to.

There are dimmable versions of buckpucks that, from my understanding, can be hooked up to a controller like the Arduino. The output of the board can act as a potentiometer (dimmer) and adjust the output of the LEDs a la Solaris.

Also, as stated, the optics will help immensely with the output of the fixture. For my current needs, again, I don't want or need them, either.

My main focus for this project is to help the reefing community by allowing all of you to have the information to build your own functioning fixture that will save you money and still put out a ton of light.

I have done research with 1 and 3 watt luxeons and they just don't put out like the Crees.

Also, by all means, please improve upon or completely redesign this idea.

I am happy that this thread has become a springboard for the discussion and I hope that this technology will help all of you.

One last thing... I have a friend coming soon that will bring the meter to test the amperage draw so I can actually find out what kind of power I'm consuming.

Keep rolling with the ideas, guys. Keep in mind, though, it's true that sometimes the simplest solution can be the best.


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Unread 03/04/2009, 06:20 PM   #119
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Without some kind of constant current source?


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Unread 03/04/2009, 07:16 PM   #120
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I have a question after reading all these posts....

Is there something wrong with the design that Soundwave is using? Is the design not being used to it's full potential or is it going beyond it's limits?

I just think if it ain't broke don't fix it.


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Unread 03/04/2009, 07:21 PM   #121
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Thank you


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Unread 03/04/2009, 07:48 PM   #122
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i have (5) 1 watt blue luxeons & a buckplug that i am going to use for moonlights & (5) 3 watt white luxeons & a buckplug that i am going to use for "shimmer" suplementation on my new build. each set of leds will have it's own laptop pc power supply so they can be time controlled seperately

would a piece of aluminum stock (say 1/4" x 1") work good enough for a heatsink?? also plan on using pc cpu thermal paste between the leds & aluminum. there will be 4" pc fans on each end blowing across the t5s & this will be mounted between the bulbs (t5 - t5 - leds - t5 - t5)


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Unread 03/04/2009, 08:25 PM   #123
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That will work just fine for a heatsink on that setup. I actually did the exact same thing when I started working with LEDs. I added 4 of the 3 watt luxeons for a shimmer effect. It worked nicely. One thing you might want to consider, though, is going with angle aluminum which will give you more surface area for heat transfer.








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Unread 03/04/2009, 08:57 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally posted by Soundwave
I'm not trying to sound negative, here, but some of you guys are making this harder than it is. I've found a great combination and it is working flawlessly. I understand that there may be a slight voltage decrease vs what is stated but the output of the fixture speaks for itself.

Even with the fixture that I made, I can still improve it on a few different levels. However, I have no need or want to.

There are dimmable versions of buckpucks that, from my understanding, can be hooked up to a controller like the Arduino. The output of the board can act as a potentiometer (dimmer) and adjust the output of the LEDs a la Solaris.

Also, as stated, the optics will help immensely with the output of the fixture. For my current needs, again, I don't want or need them, either.

My main focus for this project is to help the reefing community by allowing all of you to have the information to build your own functioning fixture that will save you money and still put out a ton of light.

I have done research with 1 and 3 watt luxeons and they just don't put out like the Crees.

Also, by all means, please improve upon or completely redesign this idea.

I am happy that this thread has become a springboard for the discussion and I hope that this technology will help all of you.

One last thing... I have a friend coming soon that will bring the meter to test the amperage draw so I can actually find out what kind of power I'm consuming.

Keep rolling with the ideas, guys. Keep in mind, though, it's true that sometimes the simplest solution can be the best.

I'm not putting the design down at all you can't go wrong with a Buck Puck, Heatsink and Cree LEDs..... I can't put my finger on it but something just doesn't seem right.. you are using less then half of the LEDs that most people are using and are possibly not driving the LEDs with maximum current but still seem to have good coverage. The Solaris uses 60 Luxeon Rebels per 24" , Aquillumination uses 24 LEDs per foot and various other people including myself built different versions of a LED light that use a whole lot more then 48 LEDs. What gives?


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Unread 03/04/2009, 09:25 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally posted by Soundwave
That will work just fine for a heatsink on that setup. I actually did the exact same thing when I started working with LEDs. I added 4 of the 3 watt luxeons for a shimmer effect. It worked nicely. One thing you might want to consider, though, is going with angle aluminum which will give you more surface area for heat transfer.
angle won't work....i'm attaching them to a light drawer. so in that case, would you go thicker or wider on the aluminum piece?


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there's no place like 127.0.0.1

It's a shame that stupidity isn't painful....

Current Tank Info: currently tankless....but planning an AIO
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