Niger trigger white pimple!!!

[87ford]

Ok so little background the tank is a 150 30 gallon sump I just pulled my blue tank from it and put in a qt for ich and hazy eye which he is doing much better in the 2 days he prob is mad at me cause what a night mare to get him out of the display had to fill up the bath tub with salt water to put all the live rock in there move all the coral just to trap him but any way this morning I noticed like a pimple on my trigger and am tempted to pull him but idk what he has could be ich but could be just he bumbed his self on a rock or just a growt the tank Parma are
Ph 8.0
Temp 82
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 5
Calcium 460
Phosphate 0
Iodine .06
Copper 0

Equipment 2 mag 12 2 korilas 1200 6 bulb ho t5 and a 75 watt led strip a 30 gallon sump/refugium with cheato coralife 220 skimmer a ato 120 pounds of live sand 150 pounds of live rock

Below is a pic very hard to get a crisp picture with an iphone and a fish tank lol but hope this gives you an idea the trigger acts normal in fact to normal I feed my anemone once in a while and before I get to it the trigger tips the food out of my hand I'm trying to catch the problem before it happens I look at every fish to much during the day and any thing that wasn't there I research and ask rc I tried to see if I can find anything but didn't and so here I am lol

Thanks
Tom

[HumbleFish]

Not 100% sure what the white pimple is; but I am 100% sure that you need to treat all your other fish for Ich. Any fish that shared water with the Blue Tang is now infected with Ich, and needs to be QT'd & treated.

[87ford]

I agree totally but there is no way to get rid of it from the display tank it has coral in it so even if I treat all the fish I put them back in there is still a chance they will catch it again and I cans dose with copper and I wont put copper in that tank even if I didn't have coral cause than that would mean I couldn't ever get coral cause there is no real way to get rid of it all out of the sand rock etc I wish I could treat all the fish it just wouldn't be practical to set up a another 159 gallon tank to then when done break down and they catch it again I also don't want to treat any fish with the carpet method meaning throwing in chemicals till it works lol thank you for the reply I wish I could I can still treat one at a time which I will do when I see signs of illness but for now I need to figure out what's on the trigger

Thanks again
Tom

[Newsmyrna80]

Please read the stickies in cryptocaryon (ich) at the top of the forum. Just some main points: you can rid the display of ich without dumping chemical. Leave it fallow. You have to treat the fish in a hospital tank. There are various methods to treat which is explained in the stickies.

[87ford]

Yes hypo is another method along with others listed but I'm order to rid the display I would have to leave it fish less for 2-3 months and now I have to put 150 gallon stock into another tank and treat them separately which would be great if I could split up all the live stock and treat them but I can't it's just not possible for my space and money my only option is to treat what I see is infected and hope that when I remove the fish I get the majority of the parasite and adventually it will be ich free cause the life span is like 11 months I believe correct me if I'm wrong as long as you don't add any new parasites etc so yes there are ways to do it with out chemicals but then time plays a part I could also break down the entire tank and move the corals to my 36 but then risk transferring etc plus it still could be in lr and sand I would have to get new or leave be for 2 months I have to say I hate ich lol it has been a night mare and I'm trying to do what ever it can but no matter what there is always an obstacle at least my tang is doing better he isn't happy with me but he is eating and looking great on a side note I did notice the white dot disappeared on the trigger it could have been a bump or well it could be he tried to go after my long spine urchin and got pricked yeah I know one eats the other but he had to move out of my 36 cause he was way to big I kept hitting the spines when I did any work on the tank lol

Thanks for the replies
Tom

[Newsmyrna80]

Yes hypo is on the list..have you read this? http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2388431
If I'm understanding correctly you are not taking all of the fish out of the tank? You will never get rid of the parasite in the main unless the tank is fallow (fish less). I'm not sure where you got a life span if 11 months but that is not accurate.
Although treating for ich is not easy it is simple. Move all fish into a hospital tank, treat with whichever method you choose (copper, hypo, TT, CP, etc), leave main fallow as recommended in the numerous stickies on crypto.

[87ford]

Yes I understand the thread to move all fish into a qt but that would not be possible with out a large qt I only have a 10 gallon for qt and that is already to small for the hippo tang I'm getting away with it cause he is small but to put a trigger a clown a goby a fire fish and a yellow tang in a 10 gallon would def kill all them and the expense to set up a qt to house all those fish is impractical and adventually the ich will disappear on it's own that's why my hope is to just qt what is sick I also don't want to medicate fish that aren't sick that's not a good thing to do either I could be wrong on the fact of the hippo and he could have just been stressed and hurt his eye and got a bacterial infection I jumped to conclusions cause they are just known to always get sick my trigger now hasn't had that white spot in 2 days he could have gotten stung by the urchin I do everytime I clean the tank cause I have a black background and I always hit him I wish I could qt everyone but it's an expense I don't have it would be cheaper to take the whole tank down and put new sand and live rock in thank you for the threads and the replies I did read well skimmed through it on the methods to cure the ich the 11 months is a article on the web that says the parisite becomes exhausted after 11 months of constantly hosting a fish etc and just like if you leave it fishless for 2 months the parisite will die on it's own cause it needs a host

Thanks again
Tom

[Newsmyrna80]

As for the spots disappearing that is part of the life cycle. They will reappear. Ich will not disappear on its own. Your fish will more than likely succumb to this parasite. A QT does not have to be expensive. I've used a Rubbermaid container with an air stone. I wish I could offer more help but appears you have made up your mind to not quarantine. I hope everything works out for you.

[87ford]

If I was to use a large container what could I use for filtration and I'm not here 4 days of the week to monitor the ammonia the chances of survival are slim I would have to put at Barr min a heater a light and a air stone and a power head it could be done but it would have to stay like that for 2 months and it would have to be a big container in the middle of my living room I just don't have the space I have a 1 bedroom apartment it already has 5 fish tanks literally 1 for every room I wish I didn't have my mind set on not qt the rest of the fish I just feel if I move them they will die sooner and if I don't I at least have a shot of them fighting it I do appreciate the help I know the correct way but sometimes we are obligated not to do them I'm sure I'm not the only person in the world that has had to make a decision like this

Thanks again wish me luck
Tom

[Newsmyrna80]

Do you have a HOB filter? Are they other tanks saltwater with an established bioligic filter? That can be used in the QT to take care of the ammonia. You could also do large water changes before you leave and add an ammonia detoxifier.

[87ford]

Is it safe to detoxify with copper cause I thought it binds it etc I don't have a big hob just one for a 30 gallon I do have another established aquarium

[Newsmyrna80]

Oh, I thought you were going with hypo. No you can not use Prime or ammonia detoxifier with copper.

[87ford]

Ok thanks