What is eveyone's sweet spot for PAR? Dana Riddle's Latest Talk has me confused...

[bif24701]

Originally Posted by jda

I know that this will not go over well because everybody wants an easy solution (do this and you will succeed), but just pay attention to what the super successful people do and then do the same.

You don't see most of the folks on here with astonishing SPS tanks sweating PAR. They have high quality lighting (T5 or MH) and run them for usually between 8 and 10 hours a day. That is all that you need to do.

Nice! So true. Stability.


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[Rwpdunne]

Originally Posted by w3bbo

No idea what my PAR is. I thought PUR was more important than PAR? Here's my reef with 8x54w 10hrs with 1hr ramp up either side:



I think the photo period is also important to consider. The less PUR there is available the longer you want your lights on. Imo SPS can take either short strong blasts of light (4-6 hrs) or less powerful lighting for a longer period (8-12 hrs). As long as the energy they receive is within the limits they prefer then its all good. Some will grow better with higher light, some better with lower then you have to consider coloration which is a whole new ball game!

My words exactly I've no idea about par

[DiscusHeckel]

Originally Posted by koral_lover

Beautitful Tank and Excellent Colors! I appreciate you sharing your par numbers with a reference picture to go by. The feedback from everyone has been great and it appears many are cautious in giving a ball park par range due to all the other interactions taking place. For those that have given ranges, it appears 300-500 is sufficient and about right. Perhaps I will start from there and try not to change anything with he lights and play with nutrients more...

DiscusHeckel - could you also share your photoperiod that go along with your target par ranges? Thanks!

Thank you. I already mentioned my target PAR range in my earlier post, but it is OK I will repeat it: "I keep PAR values between 300-500 mmol/m2/sec for those Acros that require high light. So-called deep water ones get between 200-250 mmol/m2/sec PAR."

I use an ATI 8 X 39W light unit. I run it for 12 hours. 10 hours full light and 2 hour dawn-to dusk (1 hour at each side of the full light cycle).

[Big E]

Originally Posted by DiscusHeckel

Thank you. I already mentioned my target PAR range in my earlier post, but it is OK I will repeat it: "I keep PAR values between 300-500 mmol/m2/sec for those Acros that require high light. So-called deep water ones get between 200-250 mmol/m2/sec PAR."

I use an ATI 8 X 39W light unit. I run it for 12 hours. 10 hours full light and 2 hour dawn-to dusk (1 hour at each side of the full light cycle).

My levels are the same 200-500.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...197142&page=12

Growth and color of the acros will tell you best placement level.

[DiscusHeckel]

Originally Posted by Big E

[Piper27]

Ed the Coraline on your overflow, I am guessing that's what it is, looks like cake layers that need to be chiseled off .

Dana's talk involved him pushing the idea that too much par was bad for our corals right? If I remember correctly he said lower par is better than very high par. I need to watch it again but I didn't get to much needed info from it last time so I may not.

I think the more par the better, but this is in relationship to nutrients going into the tank. Not nutrient levels on a test kit. If you feed healthy foods all day long and keep adiquate flow there is no light that will "over light" your acros and the more food and light the better, given its a good source of light and for the right amount of time. Which is another aspect to this conversation.

[bif24701]

This is about 10-12" below the surface in the middle.

Do not consider the PAR daily history at the bottom of the picture. This is my PMK and I move it around to get a rough idea of my lighting.

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[jda]

Originally Posted by bif24701

Nice! So true. Stability.

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Yes and no. More than stability is solid, reliable choices for lighting. None of what most of them choose need to worry about PAR or output - they just work with no tweaking or changing settings.

[Big E]

Originally Posted by Piper27

Ed the Coraline on your overflow, I am guessing that's what it is, looks like cake layers that need to be chiseled off .

Dana's talk involved him pushing the idea that too much par was bad for our corals right? If I remember correctly he said lower par is better than very high par. I need to watch it again but I didn't get to much needed info from it last time so I may not.

I think the more par the better, but this is in relationship to nutrients going into the tank. Not nutrient levels on a test kit. If you feed healthy foods all day long and keep adiquate flow there is no light that will "over light" your acros and the more food and light the better, given its a good source of light and for the right amount of time. Which is another aspect to this conversation.

The coraline on the overflow did have a thick plated layer until asterina stars ripped it all apart. I got rid of most of those pests, but a few linger.

I"m not sure what you're asking, but for T5 dominant lighting 250 to 500 satisfies most light loving acros inside a 7-9 hour window. I keep a consistent spectrum over the whole tank which to me is very important as well.

That should give people about a 24" area top to bottom to place acros.

I don't see any sense in extra par or long duration exposures even if the corals can handle it, as I'm just expending extra electrical costs and reducing bulb life with no real benefits to my reef.

I tested and posted par numbers so it can help some people, but really it's just easier to look at the corals like we all used to do.

[jda]

Originally Posted by Big E

I tested and posted par numbers so it can help some people, but really it's just easier to look at the corals like we all used to do.

I know that this is going to sound really callous, but it is not that easy for most and only easy for some because they have taken the time to gain a good breath and depth of experience. You see, experience takes years... and most new folks don't have years anymore... they want to know what to set their lights to today. Now!

Sure there are some that can look at a coral and instantly know how it is doing. Most have no idea today, but if they are still in the hobby in a few years, then they will know too.

[Radioheadx14]

Just got my PAR meter and here is my results, do these look about right for my light? My light is a 250w Radium on M80 ballast and 4x39w T5. 2 blues and 2 true actinics. I looked and it looks like I never upped my MH lamp on time from 4 hours. T5s are on around 7 or 8 hours. I think I'll start slowly bumping my MHs. (excuse the red turf algae... not sure why I have it but I am getting a turbo snail to hopefull rid it. Must be the new shelf rock leaching PO4?)

Edit: standard 40g breeder. Light is about 10" from surface.

[bif24701]

Originally Posted by Radioheadx14

Just got my PAR meter and here is my results, do these look about right for my light? My light is a 250w Radium on M80 ballast and 4x39w T5. 2 blues and 2 true actinics. I looked and it looks like I never upped my MH lamp on time from 4 hours. T5s are on around 7 or 8 hours. I think I'll start slowly bumping my MHs. (excuse the red turf algae... not sure why I have it but I am getting a turbo snail to hopefull rid it. Must be the new shelf rock leaching PO4?)

Edit: standard 40g breeder. Light is about 10" from surface.

That should be sufficient for just about anything except the most light demanding acros.


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[jda]

They are going to be fine for any acro, clam or whatever you want. That Radium is going to put out significant output below what the PAR meter can pick up. Going back to what Ed said about just seeing and knowing, there has never been a single person in the history of reefing that could not keep whatever they wanted in a 40B with a 20K Radium and 4 T5s.

[bnumair]

I talk about PAR in this article broadly in general due to the fact there are so many different types of Lights different Technologies and different circumstances along with different setups it is impossible to have one good answer.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...4#post21679014

[markalot]

I don't think high PAR is needed for most acros, but it will vary.

I have grown frags of colonies under radically different PAR and the colors stayed about the same. In my opinion the higher the PAR the better water quality is needed and because our tanks can't come close to duplicating ocean conditions running at a lower PAR is generally better. IMO of course.

I run at 200 - 450 and I don't think I'm seeing any issues due to lack of PAR.