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12/29/2012, 03:03 PM | #1 |
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DIY flow diverter / wave maker
Ok. So in my attempts to create dynamic flow patterns while spending as little as possible, I am putting this together. It consists of 12 PVC connections, 3 pieces of pipe, epoxy putty, PVC glue and one low RPM motor.
The cost is $20 + motor. I've had the motor for a decade so I need to price a comparable item. I have no idea if it'll work, so I thought I'd share and either we triumph or fail together. The heart is the standard PVC 1" extension fitting. The inlet and outlet rotate independently and are water tight with three seals. Two are in the rotating shaft and one is in the fitting. Take one apart at Lowe's or HD and you'll see what I mean. Last edited by karimwassef; 12/29/2012 at 03:15 PM. |
12/29/2012, 03:16 PM | #2 |
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12/29/2012, 03:23 PM | #3 |
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PVC fittings:
Housing 1 four way 2" slip/slip/slip/slip 3 female thread clean outs 2" slip/thread 1 bushing 2" to 1.5" slip/slip 1 bushing 1.5" to 1" slip/slip (wanted just one 2" to 1" bushing but they were out) 1 extension pipe 1" slip/slip 1 cap 1" slip/slip Shaft 2 couplings 1.5" slip/slip 1 bushing 1.5" to 3/4" slip/slip Pipe: 1.5" pipe 1.5" long 1" pipe 1" long 3/4" pipe 5" long |
12/29/2012, 03:28 PM | #4 |
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12/29/2012, 03:28 PM | #5 |
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12/29/2012, 03:31 PM | #6 |
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Looks very interesting.
Want to see in action. |
12/29/2012, 04:01 PM | #7 |
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One important detail. The piece of 1" PVC pipe must be the thin wall type (sch 40).
Other than PVC glue and Teflon tape, I'm also using epoxy putty to stop up the 3/4" pipe. The cutout drawing on the 1.5" coupling is for illustration only. The real cutout will be about 50% longer to allow the middle position to drive flow into both pipes for a sinusoidal alternating flow. |
12/29/2012, 04:21 PM | #8 |
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Thanks Boboli
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12/29/2012, 04:37 PM | #9 |
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12/29/2012, 09:28 PM | #10 |
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Found the motor for $110, so the total is $130.
I already had the motor but there may be other options that would work just as well. |
12/30/2012, 01:04 AM | #11 |
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Cool idea, I've been looking into trying a similar concept myself on a future tank. I've seen motors that should work for this application, 6rpm 120v, for around $15 so most of this cost could be reduced. You probably don't need a ton of torque for this so that opens up possibilities.
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12/30/2012, 10:17 AM | #12 |
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I also use a very low RPM (1). This can probably be pushed to 5 or 6 RPM.
My concerns: maintenance. The seals are all accessible so that's not the issue. The motor is connected to the 1" cap but that is pressure fitted to the shaft, so that's removable too. The two pieces (shaft and housing) are assembled with glue. Even threaded connectors would still not allow the shaft to be removed and would not allow the assembly to work. How I see this working... When it needs maintenance (seals, buildup), the whole unit needs to be replaced with a temporary Tee 2". The seals are removed, and the whole assembly soaked in vinegar, then new seals applied. Unknowns: how often will it need to be done? What is the operation mode when it needs maintenance and it lapses (controlled failure or catastrophic?) |
12/30/2012, 10:18 AM | #13 |
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Anyone able to upload videos directly on this site?
How do you do it? |
12/30/2012, 08:25 PM | #14 |
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First cut
Not bad given that my dremel cutting skills are poor. Also cut a 5/16" thick piece of the other 1.5" coupling to make the diverter assembly Cut back the inside PVC First cut on the 1.5" to 3/4" coupler Dremel the rest out Assembled With the shaft I made a mistake here that I wish I had noticed before gluing. The 3/4" shaft insertion into that bushing is critical! It needs to be as perfectly perpendicular as possible. I have a slight angle on mine and I can hear the motor have to work a little harder on one half of the turn than the other. Disappointing - but a learning opportunity. Still works. |
12/30/2012, 08:25 PM | #15 |
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12/30/2012, 08:29 PM | #16 |
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12/30/2012, 08:30 PM | #17 |
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Running in air - water video to come. I still haven't glued the final PVC connection - just in case.
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12/30/2012, 11:42 PM | #18 |
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12/30/2012, 11:43 PM | #19 |
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12/31/2012, 02:31 AM | #20 |
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Video doesn't show up for some. Trying again as a link.
http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/...pscfbfae9b.mp4 |
12/31/2012, 06:59 AM | #21 |
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just came across this and it's awesome! Is it possible to make the entire assembly shorter/more compact? Also, does it need to be mounted vertically or does position not matter?
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12/31/2012, 11:00 AM | #22 |
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The 1" extension is the core, and that's the long part. It may be possible to cut it back to the seal location (3" shorter).
I don't see an issue mounting it in different orientations. The only position I would stay away from is the one with the motor immediately under the assembly. This is in case of a leak dripping down to the motor. I'm thinking of a low cost housing to fit the motor made of Tupperware. It's been running all night now (10 hours water test) without a leak or failure. I'll keep it running all day. The bushing that mates up to the 4way is not PVC glued in but there are no leaks... Might be because I haven't put my dolphin 7500 pump to it yet. That'll have to wait till the real tank's sump is operational. Last edited by karimwassef; 12/31/2012 at 11:08 AM. |
12/31/2012, 11:12 AM | #23 |
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Also a 2" to 1" slip bushing would save another inch since I couldn't find it and had to make one from two connectors.
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12/31/2012, 11:29 AM | #24 |
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this is cool! Do you plan to incorperate this in your display? I almost think the design in the first video would be usable. Mount that on the back wall of the tank and water will jet out left, right, left, right, etc.
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12/31/2012, 12:16 PM | #25 |
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Great DIY I only have one complaint and this video sums it up.
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