Halide Q & A - Page 11

NaClCrocodile · 05/30/2010, 06:33 PM

New to MH lighting and I think I may have jumped too quickly on my first fixture. It's an Outer Orbit 250w + 4 24w T5 fixture. I think I should have gone with the 150w version, is there any way I can switch over? Is it as simple as switching the ballast? If I do just have to switch the ballast, can I switch from the magnetic to an Icecap or Galaxy at this point? Thanks!

Tony Romano · 05/31/2010, 06:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NaClCrocodile

New to MH lighting and I think I may have jumped too quickly on my first fixture. It's an Outer Orbit 250w + 4 24w T5 fixture. I think I should have gone with the 150w version, is there any way I can switch over? Is it as simple as switching the ballast? If I do just have to switch the ballast, can I switch from the magnetic to an Icecap or Galaxy at this point? Thanks!

I think you have to change socket as well, yes you can change to electronic. (Only way to go)

250W is good all around #, why do you think it is too much? I have some 150s wish they were 250s!

NaClCrocodile · 05/31/2010, 11:27 AM

My tank is pretty shallow - 25x18x18. So all I'd have to do is change the ballast and the socket, I wouldn't have to touch the cord that goes into the fixture?

Toadally · 05/31/2010, 01:14 PM

Your 250 watter should work fine on that tank. I had a 250 over a 25 gallon for over a year. The coral was growing out the top of it. What are you going to keep in it?

NaClCrocodile · 05/31/2010, 10:16 PM

I'd like to go SPS dominant with a VSV (hopefully) ULNS. It may be tough with college starting but SPS dominant if I can keep it stable. Should I just go mainly actinic with the T5s? I've got a Reeflux 20K in the 250.

Maybe
Fiji Purple
Blue +
Aquablue Special
Blue +

Thoughts?

KrazyOnetime · 06/02/2010, 03:46 PM

Hey i'm setting up a 135 gallon 72" 18" 24" I want it to be a mixed reef able to handle what ever i decide to put in it with in reason. What should I do as far as lighting? I was thinking 2 400w MH's (instead of three 250w) on either side of center with t5 supplements so I have some not so bright spots in the tank for different requirements but should I buy the 2 ballasts bulbs and reflectors from my lfs for $400 or buy used from classifieds here/ebay ect. And whats the difference between electronic ballasts and the core-coil kits that a person can wire themselves (they are so much cheaper) Just trying to make the best choice concerning the wallet

KrazyOnetime · 06/02/2010, 03:47 PM

my bad that was a single dual 400w ballast 2bulbs and 2 reflectors for $400 from my lfs

Tony Romano · 06/02/2010, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KrazyOnetime

my bad that was a single dual 400w ballast 2bulbs and 2 reflectors for $400 from my lfs

What brand? You want electronic, your plan seems sound to me. (2 vs 3 mh)

KrazyOnetime · 06/02/2010, 04:10 PM

i cant remember they were blue but not icecaps

KrazyOnetime · 06/02/2010, 04:11 PM

can a guy use any 400w ballast to run these kind of bulbs

Felixc395 · 06/16/2010, 11:36 AM

Hi guys, just a quick question. Could I use a 24'' Marineland Series light with 150 watt HQI, and 4 24 watt T5 HO over a 60 gallon (24'' by 24'' by 24'') SPS dominated tank with enough light for all them?

Thanks!

Pchromis · 06/17/2010, 09:24 AM

Hi all,
I have been running 8x39w T5 lighting over my 95 reef. I had chosen the t5 simply because of the "heat" factor that everyone seems to refer to.

The T5 lights are ok for me as I only keep softies in their. Even with T5, it seems to still be a little intense for my BTA.

So, I have a few questions about MH.

Heat is obviously a concern, but what about costs?
I hear and read about MH users' astronomical electric bills.

Since electric bills are based on kwh....would not a 250w MH cost the same as to run 250w of any other lighting? I always thought a WATT is a WATT, no matter how it is generated.
What am I missing here with the cost argument?

Are the higher costs due to running a chiller maybe?

Another question i have is about what MH to get if i change over?

I was thinking of a 250w 14k system, for a touch more "blue."

Also, SE or DE bulbs? Pros and cons?

The tanks is 36 x 24 x 24.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Tony Romano · 06/19/2010, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Felixc395

Hi guys, just a quick question. Could I use a 24'' Marineland Series light with 150 watt HQI, and 4 24 watt T5 HO over a 60 gallon (24'' by 24'' by 24'') SPS dominated tank with enough light for all them?

Thanks!

Yes

Tony Romano · 06/19/2010, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pchromis

Hi all,
I have been running 8x39w T5 lighting over my 95 reef. I had chosen the t5 simply because of the "heat" factor that everyone seems to refer to.

The T5 lights are ok for me as I only keep softies in their. Even with T5, it seems to still be a little intense for my BTA.

So, I have a few questions about MH.

Heat is obviously a concern, but what about costs?
I hear and read about MH users' astronomical electric bills.

I have all kinds of stuff going including 3 250w and 2 150w, we pay around $400.00 a month, not really out of line for Texas with 2 AC units.

Since electric bills are based on kwh....would not a 250w MH cost the same as to run 250w of any other lighting? I always thought a WATT is a WATT, no matter how it is generated.
What am I missing here with the cost argument?

I think you are correct, there maybe something to be said for electronic vs magnetic.

Are the higher costs due to running a chiller maybe?

Yes, chillers are actually counter productive, unless properly returned and vented. (outside to outside)

Another question i have is about what MH to get if i change over?

I was thinking of a 250w 14k system, for a touch more "blue."

Also, SE or DE bulbs? Pros and cons?

The tanks is 36 x 24 x 24.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Not sure on DE vs SE, DE is slighty over driven, I think. Good on W and K. I like SE in quality reflector 14" or more above water. I modified my CAP last year to hang from ceiling.

I like MH for shimmer and personally think the single point source allows me adjust light to coral a bit. T5 in theory would be same PAR in entire tank.

There are plenty of guys running sps tanks with T5s.

Tony Romano · 06/19/2010, 08:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KrazyOnetime

can a guy use any 400w ballast to run these kind of bulbs

Did you buy anything?

Pchromis · 06/19/2010, 08:50 AM

Tony Romano,
thanks for the informative reply.

svb57 · 06/22/2010, 11:03 PM

I have a 300g reef tank and have run 250w DE Phoenix14k and Giesmann 14.5k running on BlueWave ballasts.

Liked the look of the Phoenix but the "penetration" to the tank floor wasnt good. Have a birds nest that grew but stayed brownish. Put the Giesmanns in and the color was much whiter and the birds nest turned pink and growth overall was good. Now after about 7 months i am seeing that the tops of a lot of the corals (those areas facing up) are starting to bleach.

Couple questions?

Could the Giesmanns have "changed" in a way that is causing the bleaching?

If I was to change bulbs I dont want to go back to the Phoenix as I said the penetration wasnt that good. Looking at XM 20ks or the new 15ks...

What other sugestions?

Thanks
Jim Mc

Travis1787 · 06/26/2010, 06:48 PM

So here is my deal... I run T5s but I think MH is beyond the way to go ... I'm building a canopy for my bow front soon and wanna make my own MH T5 combo I don't wanna have more the a 150 on my tank but due to center brace i can't run one bulb in the middle so I would like to run a 70 watt on one side and another 70 on the other side and then run 5 39 watt T5s. So my question is what 2 bulbs should I use and can I run the both off one ballast? If so what kind?

johnfaas · 06/28/2010, 09:55 PM

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1869964

zaheda · 06/29/2010, 02:12 AM

Im running 2x400w single ended 20k BLV on my 650L. They a bit over a year old and not that bright. I also run 4x54w t5, 2x20k and 2x10 t5. Im have to change soon and thinking of the BLV 10k or 14k which will be more brighter. Reason why BLV because its the most cost effective bulb available in South Africa. Around the same price I can get the Venture Halides in 10k or 20k. Is it true the BLV 10k the highest par bulb available and long lasting? Ok forgot to say im running the halides on magnetic ballasts, cant afford the electronic at the moment.

johnfaas · 07/03/2010, 11:59 AM

I got the new lighting set up and running and the color of the Phoenix 250W 14,000K is very a crisp, bright blue. I see no need for any additional color, just enough blue. Ill try to post pics later. The Reeflex Cubes lit the bulbs right up and the Lumen Max 3 seems to spread the light quite well . I got the hanging kit which makes setting the height very easy.

2 - 250W Reeflex Cube
HQI Ballast M80
by Aqua Medi
http://www.aquacave.com/250w-reeflex...edic-2262.html

2 - Lumen Max 3 HQI Metal
Halide Pendant by Sunlight
Supply Lamp Socket Size: : 250W HQI
http://www.aquacave.com/detail.aspx?ID=1139

2 - Phoenix 250W 14,000K Metal
Halide Lamp, Double Ended
http://www.aquacave.com/phoenix-250w...ended-399.html

Jormungandr · 07/10/2010, 06:54 PM

So this probably sounds really stupid, but I was moving things around and the part of the plug that goes into the ballast fell into a bucket of water. It was probably in there for a little over a minute when I noticed it. I haven't plugged it back in yet as I am slightly worried. Am i screwed? or do I just need to let it dry out?

Tony Romano · 07/11/2010, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jormungandr

So this probably sounds really stupid, but I was moving things around and the part of the plug that goes into the ballast fell into a bucket of water. It was probably in there for a little over a minute when I noticed it. I haven't plugged it back in yet as I am slightly worried. Am i screwed? or do I just need to let it dry out?

Naw just let it dry.

asnelson · 07/12/2010, 10:20 AM

So Im setting up a new tank and found this killer deal on some Dual PFO Pendants. Each pendant has 2 single end 400w MH's and 2 T12 Actenics and moon lights. I bought both pendants, 2 Dual MH's PFO Ballasts and Dual PFO ballast for the 4 T12's. I plan on putting this over a 180g reef tank. I will never have all 4 MH's running at one time, there will only be two going at one time. I will start at one end of the tank and through out the day they will slowing cycle to the other side. The 4 T12 will be on from all day until the night cycle begins.

What are you thoughts on this?

samdaman · 07/23/2010, 05:15 PM

Based on this info tell me what i need to build a hood

can i get links to the stuff too.

* Watt: 175w
* Kelvin Temp: 20,000 Kelvin
* 8.5" x 1.8 (H x W)
* Base: E39 Mogul Base
* Shape: T-Bulb Shape
Universal Burn Position
Single-Ended Metal halide bulb
Distinct Bulb Tint Full Spectrum Light
Blue Ocean depths effect
* for traditional probe-start metal halide ballasts with an ANSI code of
M57, M58&M59 and Mogul-base socket fixtures

05/31/2010, 01:14 PM	#254
Toadally Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Mount Holly, NC Posts: 986	Your 250 watter should work fine on that tank. I had a 250 over a 25 gallon for over a year. The coral was growing out the top of it. What are you going to keep in it? __________________ _Michael "Who was the first person to look at a cow and say, "I think I'll squeeze these dangly things here, and drink whatever comes out?" Reef Aquarium Society of Charlotte (RASOC) Treasurer Current Tank Info: 57gal. Illuminata, Bubble Magus Skimmer, Tek Elite 6x39w, 40gal. Breeder, 2x A150w Kessil LED

06/17/2010, 09:24 AM	#262
Pchromis Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 101	Hi all, I have been running 8x39w T5 lighting over my 95 reef. I had chosen the t5 simply because of the "heat" factor that everyone seems to refer to. The T5 lights are ok for me as I only keep softies in their. Even with T5, it seems to still be a little intense for my BTA. So, I have a few questions about MH. Heat is obviously a concern, but what about costs? I hear and read about MH users' astronomical electric bills. Since electric bills are based on kwh....would not a 250w MH cost the same as to run 250w of any other lighting? I always thought a WATT is a WATT, no matter how it is generated. What am I missing here with the cost argument? Are the higher costs due to running a chiller maybe? Another question i have is about what MH to get if i change over? I was thinking of a 250w 14k system, for a touch more "blue." Also, SE or DE bulbs? Pros and cons? The tanks is 36 x 24 x 24. Thanks in advance for any help. Last edited by Pchromis; 06/17/2010 at 09:29 AM.

07/10/2010, 06:54 PM	#272
Jormungandr Registered Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Beautiful SoCal Posts: 105	So this probably sounds really stupid, but I was moving things around and the part of the plug that goes into the ballast fell into a bucket of water. It was probably in there for a little over a minute when I noticed it. I haven't plugged it back in yet as I am slightly worried. Am i screwed? or do I just need to let it dry out? __________________ Andrew 40g build in progress. 10g sump with 5g fuge(under construction) Tired of trying to come up with something interesting to say in sig...

05/30/2010, 06:33 PM	#251
NaClCrocodile Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 400	New to MH lighting and I think I may have jumped too quickly on my first fixture. It's an Outer Orbit 250w + 4 24w T5 fixture. I think I should have gone with the 150w version, is there any way I can switch over? Is it as simple as switching the ballast? If I do just have to switch the ballast, can I switch from the magnetic to an Icecap or Galaxy at this point? Thanks!

05/31/2010, 11:27 AM	#253
NaClCrocodile Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 400	My tank is pretty shallow - 25x18x18. So all I'd have to do is change the ballast and the socket, I wouldn't have to touch the cord that goes into the fixture?

05/31/2010, 10:16 PM	#255
NaClCrocodile Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 400	I'd like to go SPS dominant with a VSV (hopefully) ULNS. It may be tough with college starting but SPS dominant if I can keep it stable. Should I just go mainly actinic with the T5s? I've got a Reeflux 20K in the 250. Maybe Fiji Purple Blue + Aquablue Special Blue + Thoughts?

06/02/2010, 03:46 PM	#256
KrazyOnetime Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Portland OR. Posts: 223	Hey i'm setting up a 135 gallon 72" 18" 24" I want it to be a mixed reef able to handle what ever i decide to put in it with in reason. What should I do as far as lighting? I was thinking 2 400w MH's (instead of three 250w) on either side of center with t5 supplements so I have some not so bright spots in the tank for different requirements but should I buy the 2 ballasts bulbs and reflectors from my lfs for $400 or buy used from classifieds here/ebay ect. And whats the difference between electronic ballasts and the core-coil kits that a person can wire themselves (they are so much cheaper) Just trying to make the best choice concerning the wallet

06/02/2010, 03:47 PM	#257
KrazyOnetime Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Portland OR. Posts: 223	my bad that was a single dual 400w ballast 2bulbs and 2 reflectors for $400 from my lfs

06/02/2010, 04:10 PM	#259
KrazyOnetime Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Portland OR. Posts: 223	i cant remember they were blue but not icecaps

06/02/2010, 04:11 PM	#260
KrazyOnetime Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Portland OR. Posts: 223	can a guy use any 400w ballast to run these kind of bulbs

06/16/2010, 11:36 AM	#261
Felixc395 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 1,612	Hi guys, just a quick question. Could I use a 24'' Marineland Series light with 150 watt HQI, and 4 24 watt T5 HO over a 60 gallon (24'' by 24'' by 24'') SPS dominated tank with enough light for all them? Thanks!

06/19/2010, 08:50 AM	#266
Pchromis Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 101	Tony Romano, thanks for the informative reply.

06/22/2010, 11:03 PM	#267
svb57 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Romeoville, Ill Posts: 1,907	I have a 300g reef tank and have run 250w DE Phoenix14k and Giesmann 14.5k running on BlueWave ballasts. Liked the look of the Phoenix but the "penetration" to the tank floor wasnt good. Have a birds nest that grew but stayed brownish. Put the Giesmanns in and the color was much whiter and the birds nest turned pink and growth overall was good. Now after about 7 months i am seeing that the tops of a lot of the corals (those areas facing up) are starting to bleach. Couple questions? Could the Giesmanns have "changed" in a way that is causing the bleaching? If I was to change bulbs I dont want to go back to the Phoenix as I said the penetration wasnt that good. Looking at XM 20ks or the new 15ks... What other sugestions? Thanks Jim Mc

06/26/2010, 06:48 PM	#268
Travis1787 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: New Port Richey, FL Posts: 2,646	So here is my deal... I run T5s but I think MH is beyond the way to go ... I'm building a canopy for my bow front soon and wanna make my own MH T5 combo I don't wanna have more the a 150 on my tank but due to center brace i can't run one bulb in the middle so I would like to run a 70 watt on one side and another 70 on the other side and then run 5 39 watt T5s. So my question is what 2 bulbs should I use and can I run the both off one ballast? If so what kind?

06/28/2010, 09:55 PM	#269
johnfaas Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Ocean Co. N.J. Posts: 318	http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1869964

06/29/2010, 02:12 AM	#270
zaheda Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 674	Im running 2x400w single ended 20k BLV on my 650L. They a bit over a year old and not that bright. I also run 4x54w t5, 2x20k and 2x10 t5. Im have to change soon and thinking of the BLV 10k or 14k which will be more brighter. Reason why BLV because its the most cost effective bulb available in South Africa. Around the same price I can get the Venture Halides in 10k or 20k. Is it true the BLV 10k the highest par bulb available and long lasting? Ok forgot to say im running the halides on magnetic ballasts, cant afford the electronic at the moment.

07/03/2010, 11:59 AM	#271
johnfaas Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Ocean Co. N.J. Posts: 318	I got the new lighting set up and running and the color of the Phoenix 250W 14,000K is very a crisp, bright blue. I see no need for any additional color, just enough blue. Ill try to post pics later. The Reeflex Cubes lit the bulbs right up and the Lumen Max 3 seems to spread the light quite well . I got the hanging kit which makes setting the height very easy. 2 - 250W Reeflex Cube HQI Ballast M80 by Aqua Medi http://www.aquacave.com/250w-reeflex...edic-2262.html 2 - Lumen Max 3 HQI Metal Halide Pendant by Sunlight Supply Lamp Socket Size: : 250W HQI http://www.aquacave.com/detail.aspx?ID=1139 2 - Phoenix 250W 14,000K Metal Halide Lamp, Double Ended http://www.aquacave.com/phoenix-250w...ended-399.html

07/12/2010, 10:20 AM	#274
asnelson Moved On Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 7	So Im setting up a new tank and found this killer deal on some Dual PFO Pendants. Each pendant has 2 single end 400w MH's and 2 T12 Actenics and moon lights. I bought both pendants, 2 Dual MH's PFO Ballasts and Dual PFO ballast for the 4 T12's. I plan on putting this over a 180g reef tank. I will never have all 4 MH's running at one time, there will only be two going at one time. I will start at one end of the tank and through out the day they will slowing cycle to the other side. The 4 T12 will be on from all day until the night cycle begins. What are you thoughts on this?

07/23/2010, 05:15 PM	#275
samdaman Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Chandler, AZ Posts: 1,407	Based on this info tell me what i need to build a hood can i get links to the stuff too. * Watt: 175w * Kelvin Temp: 20,000 Kelvin * 8.5" x 1.8 (H x W) * Base: E39 Mogul Base * Shape: T-Bulb Shape Universal Burn Position Single-Ended Metal halide bulb Distinct Bulb Tint Full Spectrum Light Blue Ocean depths effect * for traditional probe-start metal halide ballasts with an ANSI code of M57, M58&M59 and Mogul-base socket fixtures