Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[zelie_dad]

Originally Posted by Yash

When you say both those are slightly submerged, I take it you mean the open end of the downward 90 that is submerged correct? Do you have any water (even the slightest trickle) flowing down your OC during normal operation? I have read that there should be a small trickle always but wanted to be sure.

I mean the end of the drain where it empties into the sump. In my overflow box, the main is nearly submerged, and the open channel is probably 80% submerged, but importantly the air hole isn't covered.

I don't believe it is a requirement that you have water flowing through the open channel, it's just to handle any excess water that the main can't. Although I do though have some water moving through my open channel, all the time.

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[zelie_dad]

Originally Posted by Yash

I wonder if the grey fitting on the pipe that drains all the way to the left is the gate valve. The 'wheel' on the valve might be tucked away under the stand to where it is not visible in the picture?

Definitely a gate valve.

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[Burtonboy182]

Yeah its a gate valve. I wanted it kinda out of the way for when doing stuff under the tank. I put a union on both sides so if i need i can always rotate it.

All in all im happy with it. My first plumbing job. I cant tell you how many trips to home depot this took. Good thing I have one really close.

[Yash]

I need some help fine tuning my ghost overflow box. I have all the plumbing completed and leak free! However, I just cannot seem to get the water level in the external over flow tuned correctly. My main siphon elbow is 1.5" from the bottom, the OC elbow is at 2.5" and the emergency drain opening is at 5". When I start the system up, the water level rises up above the emergency drain and in about 20 seconds drains below that level. However, it never seems to fall below the air hole in the top of the elbow on the OC.

I have tried fine tuning with the gate valve on the primary. Fully open all the way to fully closed doesn't seem to change the level at all in the box.

What am I doing wrong, or does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this issue to where after startup, the water levels finally settles below the air hole level?

Thank you!

[zelie_dad]

Originally Posted by Yash

I need some help fine tuning my ghost overflow box. I have all the plumbing completed and leak free! However, I just cannot seem to get the water level in the external over flow tuned correctly. My main siphon elbow is 1.5" from the bottom, the OC elbow is at 2.5" and the emergency drain opening is at 5". When I start the system up, the water level rises up above the emergency drain and in about 20 seconds drains below that level. However, it never seems to fall below the air hole in the top of the elbow on the OC.

I have tried fine tuning with the gate valve on the primary. Fully open all the way to fully closed doesn't seem to change the level at all in the box.

What am I doing wrong, or does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this issue to where after startup, the water levels finally settles below the air hole level?

Thank you!

Where is the gate valve? What size plumbing? Etc.

The only thing u can think of is to raise up the open channel. You have 2.5 inches to play with. Raise it to 3" and see what happens.

Pictures maybe helpful.

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[stage3-s4]

Do I need a gate valve only on the full siphon or on full siphon and open channel?

[ThisGuy12]

Gate valve should be on full siphon only

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[Yash]

Originally Posted by zelie_dad

Where is the gate valve? What size plumbing? Etc.

The only thing u can think of is to raise up the open channel. You have 2.5 inches to play with. Raise it to 3" and see what happens.

Pictures maybe helpful.

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I am so sorry - for some reason I didn't get a notification of this response and got busy with finalizing the setup. I did find my problem. The primary drain pipe was submerged a little too deep in the sump. I cut the PVC so that only an ~1" was under water, and bingo! Problem solved. I now have everything working like it should.

Thank you so much for all your help through my issues! Cheers!

[shiftline]

Help with overflow noise. I have a full siphon with gate valve that I uses to adjust the nicer flow box height

The full siphon line is fully submerged. The secondary had a U pipe on top is my secondary and the stand pipe is the overflow. Now when set it silent however the water level seems to change once in a while and I get a loud waterfall sound from it droping into the overflow box.

Return pump is a dct6000(or dct7000?). Is the pump flow some how changing or is something else messing with my water level?

Now the wave makes make a small wave which is fine until the level randomly drops a bit. (Does seem to come back up over time and level out)

[Floyd R Turbo]

Seems to me your OC is way to high. The horizontal portion should be partially submerged or else it won't operate properly. Then turn the JG fitting up. The way you have it set almost requires the siphon to be perfectly tuned and that is not correct. The OC should flow some all the time ideally, and can actually be fully submerged with the air intake above the water (just below the emergency level) so that it kicks in before the emergency.

Also it seems your emergency is too high but may just be the pic angle

[shiftline]

The water level on the box changed with the wave motion but I will try lowering the OC. Thanks!

[Richcliff]

G'Day, I've been doing heap of research and am building my first 'coast to coast using the 'Bean Animal' silent design. Thanks

Please could you advise if there have been any improvements that I should consider and also please clarify that its correct to have the syphon and open channel stand pipe holes at the same height.

Cheers

Rich

[Tisbe]

Shiftline the overflow box is what sets the tanks water height. The water should drop just a little bit into the box. This will remove the wave maker problem and then you use the gate value to get the water in the box to the correct height so just a little water trickles down the secondary drain.

[shiftline]

So if the water drops to much into the overflow box I get a waterfall Noise which I'm trying to avoid. In order to have most of the water going through the full siphon I'll have to crank my pump way up as the gate valve is barley open (to raise water level up to avoid waterfall noise

It's pretty good where the set now but I may try upping the flow to have the fill siphon doing most of the work. On a 100g ish display what do you recommend for return pump flow? I'm using a Jabeo dct6000 DC pump

[Ted_C]

2 questions for the experts:

I am running 2x DC11000 to feed a 320 gallon 8 foot aquarium. I dont know the exact flow I could get at 100% - but figured I could tune it with pump throughput percentage and full siphon tuning with a gate valve. I was planning on 1 1/2" piping for both open channel, full siphon and emergency. Do you think my open channel will be dry with 1.5" full siphon?

2nd question? Can you tee and apply valves to the open channel to feed a refugium with a percentage of the total volume going through the open channel?

Further info: all three pipes (open, emergency, full siphon) have their own inlets into the sump. 100% of the full siphon will always be going to the sump.

[shiftline]

Currently my reactors have their own Jabeo DC pump to feed them.
If I split the reactor feed line off my return pump line will it mess with my overflow much or be stable enough to not worry about it?

[zachtos]

Has anyone used a carlson surge device with this overflow?

How would I calibrate it if so (planning a 40-50G surge maybe)?

I am planning a 300 deep dimension from marineland and I think I am limited on the hole sizes they give. Can drill more holes of course, or make all four holes used for drains (maybe 2 holes are stand pipes, 1 emergency, 1 siphon?)

[Haddock]

Originally Posted by zachtos

Has anyone used a carlson surge device with this overflow?

How would I calibrate it if so (planning a 40-50G surge maybe)?

I am planning a 300 deep dimension from marineland and I think I am limited on the hole sizes they give. Can drill more holes of course, or make all four holes used for drains (maybe 2 holes are stand pipes, 1 emergency, 1 siphon?)

This is a question I have been looking for the answer to as well. Any advice on the Carlson system combined with BEAN overflow?

Also another question I believe nobody has asked yet; Would it be possible to have several BEAN systems each in its own separate overflow box in the same tank? What criteria would this dictate for the design/setup?

[Haddock]

Originally Posted by zachtos

Has anyone used a carlson surge device with this overflow?

How would I calibrate it if so (planning a 40-50G surge maybe)?

I am planning a 300 deep dimension from marineland and I think I am limited on the hole sizes they give. Can drill more holes of course, or make all four holes used for drains (maybe 2 holes are stand pipes, 1 emergency, 1 siphon?)

This is a question I have been looking for the answer to as well. Any advice on the Carlson system combined with BEAN overflow?

Also another question I believe nobody has asked yet; Would it be possible to have several BEAN systems each in its separate overflow box in the same tank? What criteria would this dictate for the design/setup?

[jason2459]

No questions here just updating how I'm setup. As I haven't touched it sincing updating this thread my setup in 2010 I think it was?

I was setup with 3 1" runs with around 12 foot horizontal run to a utility closet I had my sump setup in. I have moved it out of there setting up a new space for it moving my sump closer under the tank and at least doubled my flow from ~750gph to ~1400gph.

So, I took advantage of this switch to also upgrade the lines to 1.5" to just make sure the flow would be 0 issues and if I ever wanted to go with even more flow.

Luckily, when I setup the 180 I left room behind to work albeit not very comfortably but enough. Also, had enough foresight to start off with 1.5" and stepped down to 1"

Just enough room to get a hacksaw back there. Removing the 1" lines.



And new 1.5" lines starting with some ultraflex


And finished off with some hard plumbing underneath


Also, upgraded the return line to 1.5" too





Working like a champ. Full siphon can't really see under the water up top. Middle emergency. Bottom open channel.



Thak you again and again BeanAnimal!

[Floyd R Turbo]

What's with the mass of silicone around the bulkhead there?

[jason2459]

Originally Posted by Floyd R Turbo

What's with the mass of silicone around the bulkhead there?

Isn't that how you're supposed to install bulkheads?


That was a patch job to silicone glass to the glass that was broken while moving the tank into the house. It hit the corner of a wall as we were making a curve. I was quite ticked off and I went over zealous on the silicone and didn't care one bit how it looked as no one ever sees it. I basically recovered the right half of the overflow with new glass and drilled a new hole through the new glass on the bottom.

[warby]

iv had my tank set up since October last year and its really bugging me with the water going down the pipes noise.

so iv been thinking about using the bean animal overflow and doing a coast to coats weir as iv got 4 holes drilled already. so my question is could i use 3 of the holes for the bean animal and use 1 for my return pipework and would it matter that 2 holes are together and 1 will be at the other end of the tank?

the pictures are from when i first got the tank (it was second hand) the drawing shows how the plumbing is as of now.

REAR VIEW

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/at...1&d=1467222880

FRONT VIEW

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/at...1&d=1467222885


some pictures of the tank when i was working on it in the garage back in october.....the tank is currently stocked

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/at...1&d=1467222911

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/at...1&d=1467222899

[zachtos]

I have a 300G marineland DD tank I am setting up. It has TWO corner overflows, each with 1" bulk heads. How do I rig this up if they are in opposite corners like that?

Also, what will be maximum flow I can achieve?

I have a reeflo Barracuda (I think it's 6000gph at no head, 4000 or so at 5 feet).

If too much flow, can I use one of the other 1" pipes to do double full siphon, emergency pipe and a drain pipe? Then use over the top pipe for return flow?

[EvMiBo]

Originally Posted by warby

iv had my tank set up since October last year and its really bugging me with the water going down the pipes noise.

so iv been thinking about using the bean animal overflow and doing a coast to coats weir as iv got 4 holes drilled already. so my question is could i use 3 of the holes for the bean animal and use 1 for my return pipework and would it matter that 2 holes are together and 1 will be at the other end of the tank?

the pictures are from when i first got the tank (it was second hand) the drawing shows how the plumbing is as of now.

REAR VIEW

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/at...1&d=1467222880

FRONT VIEW

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/at...1&d=1467222885


some pictures of the tank when i was working on it in the garage back in october.....the tank is currently stocked

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/at...1&d=1467222911

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/at...1&d=1467222899

This would work fine.

I would also consider drilling one more return hole for five holes total. I had to do something similar with a small side on my peninsula. 1/4" glass is very easy to drill (what I used for the overflow weir/box)

This is my diy bean animal. [photo taken from the other small end]