Typhoon 3 rodi question ( about filter size)

[miserkris]

Hi

I have the typhoon 3 rodi (not the "extreme" version). Typhoon site recommends for filters :

1) Sediment 10 Micron, 2)Acid washed Coconut Carbon block 5 Micron and a 3) Acid washed Coconut Carbon block
one Micron.;

I am buying a bulk of stuff from BRS for BF2016. Also buying filters in BRS:
10" - 5 Micron MATRIKX CTO Carbon Block - $6.79
1 Micron BRS Universal Carbon Block Filter - $11.89
5 Micron Purtrex Depth Sediment Filter - $2.54

Can I get their filters? They do not have a sediment filter that is 10micron...only 5 micron. Will it still work in my typhoon 3 rodi ?
Will dimensions be an issue or are they standard?

Thanks!
Kris

[mcgyvr]

yes.. I use BRS filters in my typhoon without issue..
The filters are standardized across brands (2.5" x 10")..

[miserkris]

Originally Posted by mcgyvr

yes.. I use BRS filters in my typhoon without issue..
The filters are standardized across brands (2.5" x 10")..

Thanks.I'm surprised brs didn't have the 10 micron sediment filter.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[miserkris]

Originally Posted by mcgyvr

yes.. I use BRS filters in my typhoon without issue..
The filters are standardized across brands (2.5" x 10")..

Will it make a big difference between 10 micron vs 5 for sediment filter?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[nereefpat]

Originally Posted by miserkris

Will it make a big difference between 10 micron vs 5 for sediment filter?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Depends on what is in the water.

The sediment filter is there to keep the first carbon block from getting clogged. The smaller sediment filter at a 5u size could potentially clog quicker, but the 5u carbon could last longer.

I would bet that you won't notice a difference.

[miserkris]

Ok I got my filters from BRS . This is how I installed...5 micron sediment, 5 micron carbon, 1 micron carbon...

(Fourth was DI that I didn't have to change)

Is this order correct?
Thx!

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[mcgyvr]

yes.. order is correct..

[Buckeye Hydro]

Guys - regardless of what the original vendor suggested to you, never use a carbon block with a micron rating significantly smaller than the micron rating of your sediment filter. Let the inexpensive sediment filter capture the sediment, and keep the carbon block(s) free of sediment so they can do the job for which they're intended: removing chlorine.

So if you have three prefilter housings and want to use two carbon filters, here are some reasonable combinations assuming you are on city water with chlorine and no unusual sediment issues:
1 micron sed->0.5 mic carb->5 mic carb or
5 mic sed->5 mic carb->5 mic carb

Also, the concept of smaller and smaller micron sizes on successive filters applies ONLY to sediment filters.

Once you get to the carbon blocks, put the block with the largest chlorine capacity first (in order of water flow).

Russ

[miserkris]

Originally Posted by Buckeye Hydro

Guys - regardless of what the original vendor suggested to you, never use a carbon block with a micron rating significantly smaller than the micron rating of your sediment filter. Let the inexpensive sediment filter capture the sediment, and keep the carbon block(s) free of sediment so they can do the job for which they're intended: removing chlorine.

So if you have three prefilter housings and want to use two carbon filters, here are some reasonable combinations assuming you are on city water with chlorine and no unusual sediment issues:
1 micron sed->0.5 mic carb->5 mic carb or
5 mic sed->5 mic carb->5 mic carb

Also, the concept of smaller and smaller micron sizes on successive filters applies ONLY to sediment filters.

Once you get to the carbon blocks, put the block with the largest chlorine capacity first (in order of water flow).

Russ

Thanks Russ!

This typhoon rodi I got used from someone a year ago...works well. But I seem to change color changing DI way faster I think.

I don't know when membrane was replaced last. .

As you can see from written dates on it by marker, DI changed was last Nov.
Other 3 filters changed last Nov as well.
I even wrote the micron rating of filter I got....all these from BRS.

Mine is a 90g system...now tds is 30!
Whenever I change DI it drops to 0. I use city water. DI currently isn't fully Brown yet...I do tightly pack when refilling.

Pls advice what /how to check?
Is the issue with membrane?
Thanks...Kris

[Buckeye Hydro]

I don't like the configuration of your prefilters.

Not the right flow restrictor for your membrane.

No such thing as a 90 gpd membrane. Your vendor sold you a relabeled 75 gpd membrane and told you to run it at 10 psi higher than the factory spec. Fun fact to know and tell: If you take any Filmtec 75 gpd membrane and give it the factory spec temperature, and 10 psi higher than the factory spec pressure, guess how many gallons you'll get out of it? Yep - you guessed it: 93 gpd. When i see vendors offering a 90 gpd membrane I think to myself that the vendor is trying hard to find a differentiator - to offer something the others don't.

Maybe we'll start offering re-labeled 75's as 160 gpd membranes, and advise only in the fine print they need to be run at 100 psi. Not.

We have lots of detailed help we'd like to share - any chance you can call in?

Russ
513-312-2343

[miserkris]

Russ, thanks for advice and quick shipping my order!

I have an un opened brs color changing DI resin.
Also have an older resin from unknown source...
Is it ok to mix them?

Also, in your opinion why did the typhoon come up with 2 carbon stages?

Pls share...Thanks
Kris

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[Buckeye Hydro]

Assuming both are mixed bed resins, and assuming both are still good, you can mix them.

Think of a 4 stage RODI as the default configuration:
sediment->carbon->RO->DI
(like our Premium RODI's)

Then add to that default configuration whatever is needed to address whatever water quality challenges you're dealing with.

Heavy sediment loads? Might want a second sediment filter - a course one followed by a finer one.

Chloramines? Might want two carbon stages.

Realize that vendors know that uninformed/new buyers think "more stages is better," and they will cater to that. You can find shiny new ill-configured 7- stage systems on ebay that absolutely wow first-time buyers.

That said, there is nothing "wrong" with having two carbon stages with chlorinated feedwater. No carbon block removes allchlorine, so a second block will help to remove any that gets past the first. But... contrary to what a lot of people apparently think, RO membranes can withstand some exposure to chlorine. We have customers that have been using the same RO membrane, preceded by a single carbon block, for > 7 years. Filmtec tells us damage will start to be apparent after 200 to 1000 ppm*hrs.

So if you have 0.8 ppm chlorine in your feedwater, and the first carbon block allows 10% of that through, then 0.08 ppm chlorine will reach the membrane, and damage might start to appear after 2,500 to 12,500 hrs of run time. If you have a 75 gpd membrane that makes about 2 gallons per hour with your pressure and temperature, and you make 20 gallons every two weeks for a water change, that equates to 500 to 2500 weeks (9.6 years to 48 years).

The downside of adding any additional prefilter is that they all cause some pressure loss. The amount of pressure loss varies, primarily with the characteristics of the specific filter, the flow you're trying to push through it, and how dirty/clogged it is. If your feedwater pressure is high (e.g., 75 psi), a few psi of pressure loss may not matter to you. If you're on a well with water pressure varying between 30 and 50 psi, it may be a big deal to you.

Russ

[miserkris]

Russ...Thanks
You checked a website for levels in my area sePA., aqua water....if you remember..
Would you recommend 2 carbon or 2 sediment stages for me?
Next time I change ie...

Also I've been storing DI resin in these air tight glass jars I got from wm...
Is it good enough?
I read that even poly bags tied well can seep in air.

Thanks again

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[Buckeye Hydro]

You'd likely be best with two carbon stages rather than two sediment stages.

Resin stored in that jar is likely bad - you have more air in the jar than resin!

You can't store DI resin in any old plastic bag - vapor goes right through the plastic and will kill the resin. When you buy resin from Buckeye it won't show up "in your father's plastic bags." That resin from the other vendor will likely still be food - keep it in that bag.

[miserkris]

Russ, my rodi is working well now. Thanks.
The volume coming out is the best in years!

Is it worth while installing a pressure gauge before the membrane?
Can I use cheap air filled ones from HD? I'll make a T connection with plastic push connectors. I read its no good to connect brass connector to Gauge.

Pls advice!

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[Buckeye Hydro]

Yes - you need a pressure gauge before the RO membrane, and after the prefilters.

Brass is fine, as it is BEFORE the RO membrane.

Russ

[miserkris]

Originally Posted by Buckeye Hydro

Yes - you need a pressure gauge before the RO membrane, and after the prefilters.

Brass is fine, as it is BEFORE the RO membrane.

Russ

Dumb question...
The gauge can be connected to a foot of tubing or is it too long?

Its purpose is to reveal psi going into membrane, if it falls pre filters can be clogged right?
For feed water that's at 55-60psi...What's the optimum pressure going into membrane?

Do I insert gauge here? See pic!
Thanks

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[Buckeye Hydro]

Placement of the gauge is correct, but the direction of water flow is opposite of what your arrows indicate. Having 1 ft of tubing going to the gauge is not a problem. Our pressure gauge add on kits come with a foot of tubing.

Its purpose is to reveal psi going into membrane, if it falls pre filters can be clogged right?

That's right.

What's the optimum pressure going into membrane?

Assuming you have a Filmtec brand membrane, the factory test pressure is 50 psi. However, nothing says that the factory test pressure is an "ideal" - it is just a standard. So in all practicality, the higher the pressure the better as far as the RO membrane goes. You'll bump into the max pressure limit for other components on your system before you reach the membrane max pressure. So a practical ideal would be 80 or 90 psi. No one should have over 80 psi in their residential plumbing.

Russ

[miserkris]

Russ, thx yeah the arrow was only to mark the tubing not water flow lol...

It's been running great...
Feed is between 50-60 psi

Once turned on
Feed is 26 psi, post pre filters and membrane input is 23 psi.

Hope that's ok...water rodi output is excellent volume.

I'll keep a track of both pressures just in case I know when sediment is clogged!

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[Buckeye Hydro]

staic pressure = 50 to 60 psi
dynamic pressure = 23 psi.

System won't work with a dran at 23 psi.

Feel free to give us a call when you are in front of the system if you want to troubleshoot it.

Russ

[miserkris]

Originally Posted by Buckeye Hydro

staic pressure = 50 to 60 psi
dynamic pressure = 23 psi.

System won't work with a dran at 23 psi.

Feel free to give us a call when you are in front of the system if you want to troubleshoot it.

Russ

Hey Russ,
After changing input feed to half inch pex off a shark bite tap that's half inch...the flow is great.

Now the feed pressure and ro pressure are almost same like 42-45psi....while working

I'm happy now, produces lots of RODI water quickly.

DI Consumption is slower now.

Hope this pressure is ok!
Thx

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[Buckeye Hydro]

42-45 is much better, not ideal, but much better!