Need a solution - Page 2

midnightmadman · 02/16/2017, 10:50 AM

Here is a picture of it. It is also in certain areas, other areas don't have a trace of it at all.

midnightmadman · 02/16/2017, 10:51 AM

Here's an actual picture of it
It's only in isolated areas
As of now most of the tank does not have it at all

midnightmadman · 02/16/2017, 10:56 AM

I put a nice green carpet anemone in a week or so ago thinking my problems were over and could run my lights and now I am worried about cutting back the lights and he will die.

jvgomes73 · 02/16/2017, 10:56 AM

Yeah that's exactly how mine started out again the big issue is I don't doubt that you have a nice Ro di system you might have to beef it up a little bit more that ammonia chloramines and chloramine you can still get through that filter that carbonate filter cartridge

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jvgomes73 · 02/16/2017, 10:57 AM

In either case the phosphate is there and that stuff is eating it up that's why you can't read it and that's exactly why I'm going to be doing an algae curtain in my new tank

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midnightmadman · 02/16/2017, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jvgomes73

In either case the phosphate is there and that stuff is eating it up that's why you can't read it and that's exactly why I'm going to be doing an algae curtain in my new tank

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The phosphate was gone reading 0, before it started growing again. I even got another really good test kit to make sure because I had a crappy API before that.

jvgomes73 · 02/16/2017, 11:00 AM

There is another solution you can take your corals and Rock and you can get them and hydrant peroxide solution I take a small tupperware bowl that's at least big enough to fit the choral pieces in or Rock and if they get out of hand the hydroperoxide is just water and oxygen it doesn't kill everything in the tank but you take the rock of the coral and you dip it and half water saltwater and half hydrant peroxide you let it soak for about 30 seconds to 1 minute and then you pull it out let it drip off and then you can put it back in the tank and in case you wondering I've already done this it doesn't kill the stuff in the tank or hurt anything

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jvgomes73 · 02/16/2017, 11:00 AM

I'm sure to some degree it does put a little bit of stress on the inhabitants that live on it but it kills the algae right away and over the next couple of days you see it dry right up turn white and then fall off

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jvgomes73 · 02/16/2017, 11:01 AM

But again the problem is is the algae could already be growing you may not see the algae but it's consuming the phosphate and that could have been the problem

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midnightmadman · 02/16/2017, 11:16 AM

I'm trying to find the source of the problem

lngliv3 · 02/16/2017, 11:19 AM

Get some fish flucon

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lngliv3 · 02/16/2017, 11:20 AM

Treat your tank as if it was all bryopsis. Fluconazole I thinks is how it's spelled

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midnightmadman · 02/16/2017, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jvgomes73

In either case the phosphate is there and that stuff is eating it up that's why you can't read it and that's exactly why I'm going to be doing an algae curtain in my new tank

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

Quote:

Originally Posted by lngliv3

Treat your tank as if it was all bryopsis. Fluconazole I thinks is how it's spelled

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Never heard of this... I will check it

midnightmadman · 02/16/2017, 11:29 AM

I'm starting to think my problem is my RO/DI
The one I had on my previous systems when I had NO problems was a spectrapure.

midnightmadman · 02/16/2017, 11:43 AM

anyone know a rough idea how long a membrane is supposed to last? I never replaced that.

jvgomes73 · 02/16/2017, 12:04 PM

Depends on what type and brand it is?

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jvgomes73 · 02/16/2017, 12:13 PM

My personal opinion is you gotta deal with what feeding the algae in this phosphates a pneumonia getting into the system whether it's tree Rodi or not I don't know but even if you use that medication to kill the algae you still going to keep battling with a cuz this phosphates going to feed it with the ammonia and if you question that filter I would change it anyway so you know and keep a charge so you can write it down and have the date next to it

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jvgomes73 · 02/16/2017, 12:16 PM

And again keypoint you can keep medicating the tank but the problem is is it's going to keep coming back and growing that phosphate needs to come out or ammonia whichever one of those me personally I would consider doing a 6 stage instead of a 4 stage can you have two carbon blocks to take out the chlorine and chloramine and then when one gets bad you switch it out with the second one and put the new one in the second slot same with the di there's a lot of harsh chemicals that go into treating city water you can actually get test strips to see how much chlorine is getting past your system BRS Bulk Reef Supply sells them

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RobZilla04 · 02/16/2017, 12:35 PM

A TDS meter is the cheap simple way to know when it's time to change the DI Resin filter. How long they last is dependent upon many factors. Quality of the water coming into the unit and total gallons filtered are the main two.

midnightmadman · 02/16/2017, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobZilla04

A TDS meter is the cheap simple way to know when it's time to change the DI Resin filter. How long they last is dependent upon many factors. Quality of the water coming into the unit and total gallons filtered are the main two.

I actually have one.. batteries are dead

bertoni · 02/16/2017, 05:21 PM

I'd get some batteries and calibrate the TDS meter. You could measure the TDS before the membrane and after, to see how well it's doing. If the membrane is shot, the DI media will be depleted very rapidly, but the output water quality likely will be fine until the DI is shot.

Zeno83 · 02/18/2017, 07:39 AM

How many time a day are u feeding I had that problem and find out that if I feed once a day well it decreased the algae to a level that my hermit could easily control

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midnightmadman · 02/18/2017, 10:46 AM

Once a day
I even skip a day every so often even though I feel really guilty.
It's actually growing even more since I started the thread
I did another 15 gallon water change
I also think I don't have enough flow in the tank
I have 4 of those Chinese hydro style wavemakers but they feel very week and I think a lot of detris is building in the nooks and crannies of the live rock

lngliv3 · 02/18/2017, 01:38 PM

I understand getting to the root of the problem but if you want to implement a new piece of equipment like I am doing for nitrate reduction pellet reactor my wife feeds heavy. I am running maybe 300 ml of biopellets. I dosed with flucon 14days later it's all gone and hasn't returned yet !!!' Check it out the thread is on redf2reef it's a bryopsis thread

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lngliv3 · 02/18/2017, 01:39 PM

IMG_7121.jpgbefore treatment

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02/16/2017, 12:35 PM	#44
RobZilla04 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: St. Augustine, FL Posts: 1,857	A TDS meter is the cheap simple way to know when it's time to change the DI Resin filter. How long they last is dependent upon many factors. Quality of the water coming into the unit and total gallons filtered are the main two. __________________ 90g Mixed Reef

02/16/2017, 05:21 PM	#46
bertoni RC Mod Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Mountain View, CA, USA Posts: 88,616	I'd get some batteries and calibrate the TDS meter. You could measure the TDS before the membrane and after, to see how well it's doing. If the membrane is shot, the DI media will be depleted very rapidly, but the output water quality likely will be fine until the DI is shot. __________________ Jonathan Bertoni

02/16/2017, 10:50 AM	#26
midnightmadman Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Charleston, SC Posts: 223	Here is a picture of it. It is also in certain areas, other areas don't have a trace of it at all.

02/16/2017, 10:56 AM	#28
midnightmadman Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Charleston, SC Posts: 223	I put a nice green carpet anemone in a week or so ago thinking my problems were over and could run my lights and now I am worried about cutting back the lights and he will die.

02/16/2017, 10:56 AM	#29
jvgomes73 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: hew hampshure Posts: 36	Yeah that's exactly how mine started out again the big issue is I don't doubt that you have a nice Ro di system you might have to beef it up a little bit more that ammonia chloramines and chloramine you can still get through that filter that carbonate filter cartridge Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

02/16/2017, 10:57 AM	#30
jvgomes73 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: hew hampshure Posts: 36	In either case the phosphate is there and that stuff is eating it up that's why you can't read it and that's exactly why I'm going to be doing an algae curtain in my new tank Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

02/16/2017, 11:00 AM	#32
jvgomes73 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: hew hampshure Posts: 36	There is another solution you can take your corals and Rock and you can get them and hydrant peroxide solution I take a small tupperware bowl that's at least big enough to fit the choral pieces in or Rock and if they get out of hand the hydroperoxide is just water and oxygen it doesn't kill everything in the tank but you take the rock of the coral and you dip it and half water saltwater and half hydrant peroxide you let it soak for about 30 seconds to 1 minute and then you pull it out let it drip off and then you can put it back in the tank and in case you wondering I've already done this it doesn't kill the stuff in the tank or hurt anything Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

02/16/2017, 11:01 AM	#34
jvgomes73 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: hew hampshure Posts: 36	But again the problem is is the algae could already be growing you may not see the algae but it's consuming the phosphate and that could have been the problem Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

02/16/2017, 11:16 AM	#35
midnightmadman Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Charleston, SC Posts: 223	I'm trying to find the source of the problem

02/16/2017, 11:19 AM	#36
lngliv3 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Toledo ohio Posts: 19	Get some fish flucon Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

02/16/2017, 11:20 AM	#37
lngliv3 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Toledo ohio Posts: 19	Treat your tank as if it was all bryopsis. Fluconazole I thinks is how it's spelled Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

02/16/2017, 11:29 AM	#39
midnightmadman Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Charleston, SC Posts: 223	I'm starting to think my problem is my RO/DI The one I had on my previous systems when I had NO problems was a spectrapure.

02/16/2017, 11:43 AM	#40
midnightmadman Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Charleston, SC Posts: 223	anyone know a rough idea how long a membrane is supposed to last? I never replaced that.

02/16/2017, 12:04 PM	#41
jvgomes73 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: hew hampshure Posts: 36	Depends on what type and brand it is? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

02/16/2017, 12:13 PM	#42
jvgomes73 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: hew hampshure Posts: 36	My personal opinion is you gotta deal with what feeding the algae in this phosphates a pneumonia getting into the system whether it's tree Rodi or not I don't know but even if you use that medication to kill the algae you still going to keep battling with a cuz this phosphates going to feed it with the ammonia and if you question that filter I would change it anyway so you know and keep a charge so you can write it down and have the date next to it Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

02/16/2017, 12:16 PM	#43
jvgomes73 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: hew hampshure Posts: 36	And again keypoint you can keep medicating the tank but the problem is is it's going to keep coming back and growing that phosphate needs to come out or ammonia whichever one of those me personally I would consider doing a 6 stage instead of a 4 stage can you have two carbon blocks to take out the chlorine and chloramine and then when one gets bad you switch it out with the second one and put the new one in the second slot same with the di there's a lot of harsh chemicals that go into treating city water you can actually get test strips to see how much chlorine is getting past your system BRS Bulk Reef Supply sells them Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

02/18/2017, 07:39 AM	#47
Zeno83 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2017 Posts: 20	How many time a day are u feeding I had that problem and find out that if I feed once a day well it decreased the algae to a level that my hermit could easily control Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

02/18/2017, 10:46 AM	#48
midnightmadman Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Charleston, SC Posts: 223	Once a day I even skip a day every so often even though I feel really guilty. It's actually growing even more since I started the thread I did another 15 gallon water change I also think I don't have enough flow in the tank I have 4 of those Chinese hydro style wavemakers but they feel very week and I think a lot of detris is building in the nooks and crannies of the live rock

02/18/2017, 01:38 PM	#49
lngliv3 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Toledo ohio Posts: 19	I understand getting to the root of the problem but if you want to implement a new piece of equipment like I am doing for nitrate reduction pellet reactor my wife feeds heavy. I am running maybe 300 ml of biopellets. I dosed with flucon 14days later it's all gone and hasn't returned yet !!!' Check it out the thread is on redf2reef it's a bryopsis thread Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

02/18/2017, 01:39 PM	#50
lngliv3 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Toledo ohio Posts: 19	IMG_7121.jpgbefore treatment Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk